Louis Roederer’s cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, who could not be present for the London launch, refers to 2015 as a ‘soil vintage’, one that spoke of the deep-rooted vines of what the estate refers to as Domaine Cristal, a range of 45 plots across seven grand cru villages that are farmed organically and biodynamically.

The grapes that make it into Cristal must be from vines older than 20 years in order to express both the chalkiness and salinity of these soils.

Scroll down to see the tasting note and score for Cristal 2015

Anne Krebiehl MW tastes and rates Cristal 2015:

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A petition to make ‘Crystal Springs of Napa Valley’ an official AVA is being considered by the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB), which has opened the proposal to public comments until 1 May.

If approved, it would be the first new AVA within Napa Valley for more than 10 years.

Napa Valley itself got AVA status more than 40 years ago, in 1981, and today it encompasses 16 official sub-zones, or ‘nested’ AVAs, according to Napa Valley Vintners. Coombsville is the newest of these, created in 2011.

‘The recognition of our sites with a formal AVA would make us proud and satisfied,’ said Steven Burgess, who submitted the application for Crystal Springs of Napa Valley to the TTB.

‘Our choices to be hillside vintners where expenses are higher, [and] yields are lower would be recognised,’ he told Decanter.

Topography is the key distinguishing feature of the proposed Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA, according to details filed with the TTB.

A northern boundary would run primarily along a 1,400-foot elevation contour, dividing the area from the higher ground of the Howell Mountain AVA, while a southern border sits at 400 feet above sea level, separating the area from the lower slopes of the valley floor and the St. Helena AVA.

‘This is a science-based AVA and would be Napa County’s only all-hillside AVA,’ said Burgess, who is planting a small vineyard in the area. He was previously president of his family’s winery, Burgess Cellars, prior to its sale in 2020, and his work on the AVA proposal stretches back several years.

He described the area as ‘frost free’, due to its location. ‘The upper bounds are at 1400 [feet], where the inversion layer usually happens. The lower bounds are at 400 [feet], where frost becomes a problem at the valley floor.’

He added, ‘The generally south-west exposure guarantees plenty of sunshine for maturity. And, being below the inversion layer, we get the famous diurnal temperature range that grapes love.’

These factors produce smaller berries and longer hang-time, aiding complexity, while wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon – the main grape variety — display classic dark fruit flavours, such as black cherry, blackcurrant and cassis.

Cabernet wines here are generally ‘darker’ than on the valley floor, with tannins that are ‘prominent but richer’ than on the mountain top, Burgess said. ‘If not picked too late, the wines can be made quite ageable too.’

The region also benefits from cooling breezes from the Calistoga Gap directly to the west, he said.

Possible confusion with other ‘Crystal Springs’ locations across the US prompted the addition of ‘Napa Valley’ to the formal AVA proposal, said the TTB. There is also a Crystal Springs Vineyard within the planned AVA, the TTB noted.

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With 25 hectares (ha) of premier cru vineyards in the Beaune appellation, Domaine Chanson (created in 1750) is one of the leading producers in this oft overlooked AP. In total, Chanson owns 45ha of premier and grand cru vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, ranging from vineyards in Corton in the north to Santenay in the south.

Domaine Chanson is centred around the formidable historical fortress, Le Bastion de l’Oratoire, which is built into the defensive walls of Beaune.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for eight Domaine Chanson wines

Originally commissioned by Louis XI and built between 1519-1524, the tower has walls up to eight metres thick and has been part of the Chanson operation since the French Revolution. Today, the four floors of the Bastion Chanson are designed for wine ageing – three floors for red and one for white wines.

See Andy Howard MW’s notes and scores for eight Domaine Chanson wines:

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Six new Peruvian wine grape varieties have been identified by researchers in the desert province of Caravelí in the Arequipa region of south Peru.

DNA tests conducted by the Instituto de Biotecnología de la Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina (IBT-UNALM) in Peru and the Instituto de Investigaciones Agropecuarias (INIA) in Chile have confirmed the identity of six new grape varieties: Jaen, Cantarilla, Ceniza (also known locally as Mulata), Negra de Caravelí, Loca and Moscatel Negra Rubío.

Each of these grape varieties is as yet unregistered with the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC).

The newly discovered Jaén grape variety

At least two of the varieties, the white Jaén (above) and the red Cantarilla (top) – both natural crossings of Negra Criolla and a local variant of Moscatel d’Alexandría – are considered to have organoleptic characteristics worthy of propagation for wine production.

In addition, Ceniza, Negra de Caravelí, Loca and Moscatel Negra Rubío – four newly identified mutations of the Negra Criolla variety – have been deemed to warrant further research.

Lead researcher Keith Díaz (below), an agronomy engineer from the Caravelí region, is now seeking registration for these varieties in the VIVC international wine grape registry. In addition, Díaz is developing a digital ‘geo-referencing’ tool to ensure traceability and quality should anyone wish to propagate them.

Researcher and agronomy engineer Keith Díaz

‘From the study carried out, it has been possible to observe that two grapes – Cantarilla and Jaén – have the greatest potential for wine due to the good levels of tartaric acidity that they achieve in the field with an early harvest,’ Diaz said. ‘This is something that Ceniza, for example, did not show on this occasion.

‘It is important to continue experimenting with these grapes to obtain more complete data.’

Though best known as a Pisco-producing nation, Peru has a long history of wine production. The Spanish colonialists arrived in the early 1500s, bringing vine material to the Americas for the first time. Historical archives indicate the sale of vineyards in Lima in 1540. Lima was founded in 1535.

Until now Quebranta – a natural crossing of Negra Criolla and Mollar Cano used in Pisco production – was thought to be Peru’s only unique wine grape variety.

Caravelí is a small, isolated wine region with a mere 70ha under vine. It is located at around 1,700m above sea level, eight hours’ drive from the nearest city of Arequipa, and around five hours’ drive from the Majes Valley, its closest winemaking neighbour.

The grape census was undertaken by Díaz with ampelographic technical support from Sebastian Debernardi. Further support was provided by Mario Casas, president of the Wine and Pisco Makers Association of Caravelí. Financing for the project was provided by the Provincial Municipality of Caravelí.

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The post Researchers in Peru identify six unique new grape varieties appeared first on Decanter.

How many wines can you name that contain over 20 grape varieties? Here’s one: Château de Montfaucon’s Lirac, Vin de Monsieur le Baron. Having tasted every vintage back to 2007, I can state with certainty that it’s one of Lirac’s greatest red wines.

If this sounds like faint praise, it’s not meant to. Admittedly, Lirac doesn’t currently have the same cachet as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it’s just on the other side of the Rhône river and has some pockets of exceptional terroir. What’s more, while the greatest Châteauneuf might set you back £400 a bottle, you can find Vin de Monsieur le Baron for closer to £40.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for verticals of Vin de Monsieur le Baron and Vin de Madame la Comtesse

See the full verticals for Vin de Madame la Comtesse and Vin de Monsieur le Baron:

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Red wines made from Tannat are classically deep-hued and intense with a lush kernel of black fruit, from plums to black cherry and cassis, wrapped in plenty of tannins that can range from bold to fine-grained and supple, with decisions in the vineyard and the cellar resulting in varying styles.

Scroll down to see tasting notes & scores for 15 top Tannat wines

Balance is always the key, and some of the best recent examples of Tannat wines integrate the variety’s tannin content with natural acidity and bright fruit – as the examples below show.

You can also find Tannat being used to make rosé wines.

Madiran

In Madiran, Tannat’s traditional heartland of south-west France, you might find Tannat blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc.

Producers have been working with ways to manage tannin content in the wines to ensure a harmonious balance with other elements, according to the region’s wine body.

Lauded wine producer Alain Brumont is known for pioneering a new wave of pure Tannat wines in Madiran, launching his Château Montus Prestige in 1985.

Yohan Castaing tasted several vintages at a Montus and La Tyre vertical in 2022, including the 2000.

‘A gorgeously fleshy mouthfeel, brimming with energy, lengthening a finish that consolidates its profound substance but also reveals surprising subtlety and delicacy. This vintage joins the ranks of the great ones,’ Castaing wrote.

It’s possible to make lighter styles of Tannat varietal wines, too. This cooperative-made Madiran is 90% Tannat and shows a ‘lighter touch’ with supple tannins yet opulent fruit, according to Decanter’s Stephen Brook. 

This Plaimont, Château de Crouseilles wine is 100% Tannat. It’s ‘robust, brooding and tannic enough to pair well with full-flavoured meat dishes, but has plenty of ripe dark fruit to balance the power’, said Decanter’s Amy Wislocki. 

Beyond France, this Lake Anna Winery Tannat from Virginia in the US shows ‘dense bittersweet figs and prunes backed by fresher juicy berries and bold tannins’, wrote Jason Tesauro.

Tannat wines in Uruguay: Is this a new ‘Malbec’ story?

However, Uruguay is the country most making a name for itself with fascinating styles of Tannat.

Jane Anson wrote in 2017 that Uruguay was the only country to have taken in Tannat as its national grape, a move that inevitably invites comparisons with how Argentina reimagined Malbec.

‘Estates like Bodega Garzon – located in a coastal village of the same name, close to Punta del Este by coincidence – have produced a more contemporary-styled version that is helping to smooth Tannat’s image of rustic, hard tannins in international markets,’ Anson wrote.

Tim Atkin MW marvelled at Uruguay’s ‘great ascent’ in this article in 2020.

And he cited a ‘world-class’ example of Tannat from Bouza winery in Montevideo in his article on 30 great South American red blends, too.

His tasting note praised the wine’s ‘top notes of violet, sweet spices and cut grass [with a] palate of cassis, plum, strawberry [and] nuanced tannins’.

You’ll also find the grape variety in some other parts of the wine world.

This Shelton Vineyards Tannat from Carolina in the US stood out for its ‘density, expressive black cherry fruit, a touch of oak and herbaceous notes all captivated by chewy tannins and wrapped in a balanced, persistent finish’, noted Stacy Slinkard.

See tasting notes and scores for 15 top Tannat wines

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The post What do Tannat wines taste like? appeared first on Decanter.

Clear skies, crystal-clear rivers and clean air: the 2020 vintage started while the world was in lockdown. Going to work in the vineyards was one of the few permissible activities at the time (lucky vignaioli!).

The most genuine producers confess to having taken extraordinarily good care of their vines during the Covid pandemic like never before. No fairs, no visiting importers, no tastings.

Barbaresco wines from 2020 emerged as graceful with unexpected, sweet tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2020 wines

Tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2020 wines:

The following wines all scores 93 points or above

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The first vertical tasting of Guidalberto, Tenuta San Guido’s Merlot-based wine, took place in March 2023 in London, hosted by UK importer Armit Wines alongside Priscilla Incisa della Rochetta from the estate.

Tenuta San Guido is world-famous for Sassicaia, the Cabernet-based blend from Tuscany which was first released onto the market in 1971 with the 1968 vintage, and quickly became one of the world’s most sought-after wines.

In 2000, Tenuta San Guido released the first vintage of Guidalberto. Originally it was intended to be a more affordable and approachable wine, making it more accessible to a wider audience at a much earlier stage in its evolution. That is still the case today, but when the team were tasting some of the earlier vintages at the estate, they discovered that Guidalberto showed a surprising capacity to age.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for eight Guidalberto vintages between 2001 and 2021

The name Guidalberto celebrates an ancestor of the Incisa family, Guidalberto della Gherardesca, who lived in Bolgheri in the early 19th century. He was not only a pioneer in agricultural practices but was also responsible for the planting of the Viale dei Cipressi, the famous 5km-long cypress avenue that has become the symbol of the Bolgheri area.

Guidalberto 2021 & seven older vintages tasted and rated

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After a stretch of warm years from 2014 to 2018, the 2019 vintage was cool and wet in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Many winemakers welcomed a return of conditions more common a decade ago, emblematic of the elegant wines that have buoyed the region’s global reputation.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 30 Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs from the 2019 vintage

Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2019: 30 top wines to try

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Henschke is releasing the new vintage of its five single-site Eden Valley wines together for the first time on 3 May, in celebration of a series of anniversaries.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the Henschke 2018 releases

Henschke 2018 single-vineyard wines plus other new releases

The 2018 vintages of Hill of Grace, Hill of Roses, Mount Edelstone, The Wheelwright and Cyril Henschke are available from the Henschke cellar door and website (henschke.com.au), in the UK via importer Liberty Wines and in the US via Winebow from Wednesday 3 May 2023.

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A recent celebration of the lunar new year 2023 (the year of the rabbit) brought to mind a thought-provoking tasting of the red wines produced at the Domaine de la Romanée -Conti during the last year of the rabbit, 2011.

Red is an auspicious colour, symbolising happiness, good fortune, and vitality. Although red winemakers were probably not feeling too fortunate at the end of the tumultuous 2011 harvest, some ultimately produced wines of great beauty.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2011 wines

The 2011 vintage initially met with a lukewarm reception from critics and buyers. Following the exceptional harvests of 2009 and 2010, the wines from 2011 struggled for recognition.

Charles Curtis MW rates the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2011 wines

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Austerity is not all the same: Nebbiolo is more austere than Pinot Noir and Sangiovese; Barolo is more austere than Barbaresco; the stern texture of Monforte and Serralunga is different from that of the village of Barolo, which itself is different from La Morra.

Austerity aside, Barolo Riserva are also less ready to drink, mostly due to their traditionally higher extraction. However, if there is a specific justification for the more austere character of a wine, it can be found in the vintage – and 2017 was that kind of vintage.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2017 Riserva wines

View all 26 Barolo 2017 Riserva from Aldo’s vintage report

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

The 2017 vintage

Top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2017 wines

The wines below all scored 96 points or above 

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Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2019 wines

The 2019 vintage

The adjective ‘classic’ can only partly be intended, as it is in Bordeaux, to indicate wines that are less concentrated. Here in Barolo, ‘classic’ refers to traditional, old-fashioned or even old-school styles – a ‘classic’ vintage is more austere than supple.

Barolo 2019: Top-scoring wines

The following 25 wines all scored 96 points or above

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

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‘Being a vintner means having a view for the long term,’ said Paolo de Marchi at a recent vertical tasting of Cepparello hosted in London by importer, Liberty Wines.

Paolo has indeed demonstrated a long-term view, deftly guiding Isole e Olena for the last 47 years. In the process, he has become admired among his peers for his vast knowledge of how to get the most from the grapes which grow on his land, built upon pioneering research and decades of practical experience.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six vintages of Cepparello

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When the producer pulled out of his pocket a wrought iron key to an ancient door, it was easy to imagine that we would soon be transported to an old cellar, but I never would have imagined walking into a Roman cave. This is Campania, filled with hidden gems, stratified with tradition, and teeming with profound viticulture.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 30 wines from Campania to try in 2023

I was visiting La Sibilla, a winery named after the homonymous oracle who was believed to reside just a few miles away. Sibilla was Zeus’s lover; human but immortal, left only with her voice. The estate lies in the Procida promontory where the Campi Flegrei appellation shines for its personality due to old, ungrafted vines on volcanic soils facing the sea. Even the faint Falanghina (to call a spade a spade, in comparison with Fiano and Greco), emerges here with quality thanks to tart citrus fruit, vibrancy and chalky minerality.

30 wines from Campania to try in 2023

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In 1967, the redoubtable Madame Bollinger decided to challenge the contemporary fashion for youthful Champagne by releasing a recently disgorged older wine from the 1952 vintage.

Named RD – Récemment Dégorgé or Recently Disgorged – the wine proved an instant hit, all the more surprising as it had been dosed as extra brut, again in defiance of practice and taste at the time.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Bollinger RD 2008 and 1979

Tasting notes and scores for two remarkable RD vintages:

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Mother’s Day falls on Sunday 19 March in the UK this year, the day before the official start of spring in the northern hemisphere; the mimosa trees are beginning to blossom, buds are breaking, and there are signs of new life.

Flowers, plants and bulbs make for wonderful gifts on Mothering Sunday, but adding in a bottle of sparkling wine as well is sure to keep a smile on mum’s face.

We’ve put together a selection of sparkling wine options below that should suit many tastes.

The list includes varying styles of sparkling wine from classic Champagne and Cava to English sparkling, Franciacorta and pétillant naturel. Prices range from under £20 to over £300.

Looking for something really special for the grande dame in your life? Try Veuve Clicquot’s newly released La Grande Dame Rosé 2012.

Would you prefer to find something she won’t have tried before? This sparkling wine from Luxembourg is sure to surprise and delight.

Keen to impress but don’t want to break the bank? The Domaine J Laurens, Les Graimenous, Crémant de Limoux comes in under £20 and is a delicious, complex fizz.

Scroll down to see our round up of sparkling wines for Mother’s Day

Quick guide to the sparkling wine styles shown below:

• Champagne – Mostly made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, this must come from the French region of Champagne. It’s produced using the traditional method, with secondary fermentation taking place in the bottle.
• Traditional method – This refers to wines made using the same method as Champagne, where a second fermentation takes place in the bottle. The key examples are:
• Cava – Sparkling wine from Spain using both native grapes, such as Xarello and Parellada, as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Reserva and Gran Reserva Cavas undergo extended ageing in bottle, offering additional complexity.
• English sparkling wine – The cool climate and limestone soils in southern England are similar to those in Champagne, producing fantastic sparkling wines.
• Franciacorta – From the northern Italian region of Lombardy, this serious wine can be both fresh and complex.
• Crémant – There are eight appellations in France where Crémant sparkling wines can be produced, and local grape varieties tend to be used. Examples include Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant de Limoux and Crémant de Savoie.
• Other very good traditional method sparkling wines can be found in the USA, Australia, New Zealand and Brazil.
• Prosecco – Made in the Veneto region of northeast Italy from the Glera grape, using the tank – or charmat – method.
• Pétillant Naturel – This is in fact the oldest method of making sparkling wine, also known as méthode ancestrale. Unlike Champagne, the wine is bottled before it finishes its first fermentation, so the bubbles develop in the bottle. They can be slightly cloudy due to sediment, fairly low in alcohol, with a gentle fizz and sometimes a touch of sweetness. For the more adventurous mothers out there, what’s not to like!

Need more inspiration? See Top rosé Champagne to try

At a glance: top picks for Mother’s Day

Sparkling wines for Mother’s Day:

The wines below were tasted by Decanter’s editorial team and experts.

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The post Best sparkling wines for Mother's Day appeared first on Decanter.

In Bordeaux it’s not unusual to walk through echoey corridors stacked floor to ceiling with bottles of older wines. But the culture in the northern Rhône is different. Most producers will squirrel away a few cases for special occasions, but winemakers usually sell through an entire vintage rather than hold a proportion back.

It’s understandable. A Bordeaux estate is typically five times the size of a domaine in Côte-Rôtie. Older vignerons from around Ampuis still remember when selling their wine wasn’t as easy as it is today, or as rewarding. Holding stock back wasn’t financially viable for many.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the Domaine Burgaud Côte-Rôtie vintage vertical

Domaine Burgaud Côte-Rôtie 1988-2008:

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Is Syrah wine’s greatest chameleon? There are certainly few other varieties in South America that give us such a great illustration of the continent’s diverse wine regions and myriad styles.

Chile is undoubtedly the home of South America’s best Syrah wines, even though Argentina has much more of it planted, at 11,500ha (INV data to December 2021) compared with Chile’s 6,755ha (SAG, 2021). Chile’s plethora of cool climates along the coast certainly gives it the edge in the South American Syrah scene.

Scroll down to see Amanda Barnes’ tasting notes and scores for 20 stunning South American Syrahs

See 20 top South American Syrahs

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Riesling’s homeland is, of course, Germany, where it all started. Likely a descendant of wild grape vines growing in the Rheingau region, Riesling was first noted in 1435 and recorded as ‘Riesslingen’ in a record of a sale of grape vines made on 13 March of that year. As a result, the date has been designated as the variety’s unofficial birthday and decreed International Riesling Day.

Riesling’s fortunes rose and fell throughout the centuries. It had its moments; in the 18th century, based on a decree made in the Mosel Valley, all grape vines were removed and replaced with Riesling. In the 19th century, its prominence rose to equal that of Bordeaux and Burgundy.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 25 American Rieslings from US editor Clive Pursehouse

The First and Second World Wars devastated German vineyards and, along with them, the fortune of Riesling. It wasn’t until 500 years after Riesling’s ‘birthday’ that America’s Riesling revival began on the shores of New York’s Finger Lakes.

Born in the USA

There was a lot of Riesling being made in the US before Prohibition, having been brought over by German immigrants in the latter part of the 19th century. Like much of America’s pre-Prohibition wine history, the finer points have been lost.

In 1958 Dr Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant with a PhD in growing wine grapes in cooler climates, planted Riesling on the western shore of New York’s Keuka Lake.

His vision would launch New York’s modern fine wine production, particularly the state’s Finger Lakes reputation for producing world-class Riesling.

Despite modern American Riesling’s connection to New York, Washington State produces and grows more Riesling than any other state in the nation. First planted in the Yakima Valley in the late 1960s, the state now has over 2,100ha of Riesling vines. It was spearheaded by Chateau Ste Michelle, the largest single Riesling producer in the world.

Dr Konstantin Frank

Riesling in the Empire State

No region in the United States is as synonymous with Riesling as New York’s Finger Lakes. There are 405ha of Riesling vines planted in the Finger Lakes region, where more than 130 wineries produce 1,200,000 bottles a year. Riesling is the wine with which this region’s reputation has been built.

‘It could be argued that Riesling is an “underdog” variety,’ says Meaghan Frank, great-granddaughter of Konstantin Frank. ‘It is often misunderstood and not mainstream like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. The history of the Finger Lakes also aligns with this idea. With very few exceptions, we are a region of small family farms with little outside investment.

‘Though our winemaking story begins in the mid-19th century,’ Frank continues, ‘we haven’t had the fast growth of other domestic regions. Because of this, we have been able to experiment freely. This is especially true when it comes to Riesling.

‘Today there is incredible experimentation with Finger Lakes producers seeking out different aspects and soil types in the vineyard and winemaking techniques like skin contact and extended lees ageing. That’s why in the Finger Lakes, few wineries do not produce a Riesling, and really only a few make just one style.’

Washington and the world’s Riesling giant

Riesling is also immensely important to Washington’s wine industry and the big label that got Washington wine off the ground: Chateau Ste Michelle.

‘Riesling put Chateau Ste Michelle on the map,’ says Katie Nelson, vice president of winemaking at the estate – the largest single Riesling producer in the world. ‘We’ve been passionate about Riesling for over 50 years and our goal is to showcase the quality and diversity that Riesling is capable of. We make up to nine different Rieslings from bone dry to decadently sweet to show off Riesling’s stylistic range. Our partnership with Ernst Loosen of Germany on Eroica has helped shape how we grow Riesling in Washington,’ she adds.

Ste Michelle is far from the state’s only Riesling producer. While the first Rieslings were planted here in 1967, the variety has a strong future. Its cooler region, the Ancient Lakes AVA, produces brilliant Rieslings, year after year, for various producers.

California Riesling in the Napa Valley and beyond

Along with Trefethen and Stony Hill, Smith-Madrone is seen as one of the variety’s pioneers in Napa’s Cabernet country.

‘There are very few producers of Riesling today in the Napa AVA because so many producers didn’t, and don’t know, how to make it,’ says Stu Smith of Smith-Madrone. ‘They don’t understand that our steep volcanic soils and warmer climate produce a slightly different grape from northern Europe and that to get the best out of the varietal, it cannot be made as it is made there,’ he adds.

Many of the Rieslings in California are made in a riper, slightly phenolic style. Trefethen aims for a Riesling that captures the variety’s aromatics. ‘Our style of Riesling hasn’t changed since we started making this wine in 1974,’ says Hailey Trefethen.

Hailey Trefethen

‘Riesling has incredible aromatics and flavours; we aim to preserve and capture those. We use a low and cold fermentation to capture all aromas in the bottle. Aiming for freshness, bright acidity, citrus and stone fruit flavours, and a nice chalky mineral texture. We time our picks based on acidity and flavours typically yielding wines with a final alcohol below 13%,’ she adds.

In Santa Barbara County, Graham Tatomer leads the way with Rieslings of savoury and saline character. The Tatomer wines are made in a style reminiscent of Austria for his eponymous Tatomer label. His devotion to Riesling and Grüner Veltliner offers great promise for uncommon varieties in California.

Oregon’s great Riesling terroir

The cool maritime influence that makes the Willamette Valley such a beautiful place for Pinot Noir makes it a brilliant match for Riesling. While Riesling might struggle for attention owing to the success of Pinot and the rising popularity of Oregon’s Chardonnay, it may succeed in the Willamette better than anywhere else on the West Coast.

The founding father of the Willamette Valley, David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards, did not plant Riesling. But several vintners who followed closely on his heels did. As a result, there are many old vine sites where Riesling vines are nearing their fourth and fifth decades.

Those older vines, the varied soil types of the Coast Range foothills alongside a cool climate make for some brilliant Riesling potential. Perhaps the two most prominent devotees of Riesling – Brooks Winery and Trisaetum – are perennially responsible for some of the best examples in the Valley.

Martin Woods’ winemaker Evan Martin has been making Riesling since the 2015 vintage and does so masterfully. From dry to botrytis-tinged iterations to off-dry classics. Martin and many of the Valley’s next generation have embraced Riesling’s potential as one of the best matches for the Willamette Valley.

American Riesling – varied and distinctive – shows the country’s various terroirs and styles. It does so across the country’s diverse wine regions. For enthusiasts, there is something for everyone when it comes to Riesling American style.

25 American Rieslings to try

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