The horseshoe-shaped Harlan Estate encompasses two steep hillside ridge lines in the shadow of the Mayacamas mountains in California‘s Napa Valley. Facing east, the landscape reveals a great panorama of the Oakville AVA, with Rutherford and St Helena to the north and Yountville to the south.

Peering across a deep valley cut by a fault line, the western benches come into view between black, blue and valley oaks. To the southwest, the Harlan family home sits atop a high bluff keeping watch over it all.

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Kiona Vineyards is the pioneering winery of Washington State’s Red Mountain AVA, today in the hands of the third-generation – brothers JJ and Tyler Williams.

The siblings’ grandfather, John Williams, bought land on the mountain 51 years ago, in 1972, with the first 4ha vineyard planted in 1975.

With Tyler taking over as winemaker from his father Scott in 2019, and older brother JJ having worked on the business side since 2009, Kiona now has more than 113ha, growing grapes for 60 wineries, as well as making its own estate wines.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of six Red Mountain wines from Kiona Vineyards

Kiona Vineyards: six Red Mountain wines to try

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Louis Roederer’s cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, who could not be present for the London launch, refers to 2015 as a ‘soil vintage’, one that spoke of the deep-rooted vines of what the estate refers to as Domaine Cristal, a range of 45 plots across seven grand cru villages that are farmed organically and biodynamically.

The grapes that make it into Cristal must be from vines older than 20 years in order to express both the chalkiness and salinity of these soils.

Scroll down to see the tasting note and score for Cristal 2015

Anne Krebiehl MW tastes and rates Cristal 2015:

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A petition to make ‘Crystal Springs of Napa Valley’ an official AVA is being considered by the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB), which has opened the proposal to public comments until 1 May.

If approved, it would be the first new AVA within Napa Valley for more than 10 years.

Napa Valley itself got AVA status more than 40 years ago, in 1981, and today it encompasses 16 official sub-zones, or ‘nested’ AVAs, according to Napa Valley Vintners. Coombsville is the newest of these, created in 2011.

‘The recognition of our sites with a formal AVA would make us proud and satisfied,’ said Steven Burgess, who submitted the application for Crystal Springs of Napa Valley to the TTB.

‘Our choices to be hillside vintners where expenses are higher, [and] yields are lower would be recognised,’ he told Decanter.

Topography is the key distinguishing feature of the proposed Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA, according to details filed with the TTB.

A northern boundary would run primarily along a 1,400-foot elevation contour, dividing the area from the higher ground of the Howell Mountain AVA, while a southern border sits at 400 feet above sea level, separating the area from the lower slopes of the valley floor and the St. Helena AVA.

‘This is a science-based AVA and would be Napa County’s only all-hillside AVA,’ said Burgess, who is planting a small vineyard in the area. He was previously president of his family’s winery, Burgess Cellars, prior to its sale in 2020, and his work on the AVA proposal stretches back several years.

He described the area as ‘frost free’, due to its location. ‘The upper bounds are at 1400 [feet], where the inversion layer usually happens. The lower bounds are at 400 [feet], where frost becomes a problem at the valley floor.’

He added, ‘The generally south-west exposure guarantees plenty of sunshine for maturity. And, being below the inversion layer, we get the famous diurnal temperature range that grapes love.’

These factors produce smaller berries and longer hang-time, aiding complexity, while wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon – the main grape variety — display classic dark fruit flavours, such as black cherry, blackcurrant and cassis.

Cabernet wines here are generally ‘darker’ than on the valley floor, with tannins that are ‘prominent but richer’ than on the mountain top, Burgess said. ‘If not picked too late, the wines can be made quite ageable too.’

The region also benefits from cooling breezes from the Calistoga Gap directly to the west, he said.

Possible confusion with other ‘Crystal Springs’ locations across the US prompted the addition of ‘Napa Valley’ to the formal AVA proposal, said the TTB. There is also a Crystal Springs Vineyard within the planned AVA, the TTB noted.

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Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Sarah Jane Evans MW and Pierre Mansour tasted 53 wines with 8 Outstanding and 37 Highly recommended.

2004 and 2005 Rioja: panel tasting scores

53 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 8

Highly recommended 37

Recommended 7

Commended 1

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit red wines from the 2004 and 2005 vintages only, with any Rioja classification of gran reserva, reserva, crianza or genérico permitted

We had high expectations of this tasting. It is well known that great Rioja shows its full potential after extended ageing in the bottle, and 2004 and 2005 are both excellent vintages.

The 2004 vintage is the more irregular of the two. It was the last late vintage (from the following year onwards all good vintages have been quite early, likely due to climate change), and some areas performed much better than others. Fruit selection and good vineyard siting were crucial factors, but those who worked well got top wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the 2004 and 2005 Rioja panel tasting

2004 and 2005 Rioja panel tasting scores

The judges

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW is a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He holds a degree in agronomical engineering and a Masters in viticulture and oenology, is a national expert for Spain at the OIV organisation and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain.

Sarah Jane Evans MW is a Decanter contributing editor and Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards. Her latest book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain is set for release in early 2024.

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, where he has worked for 23 years. Starting out with merchant Berry Bros & Rudd, he joined The Wine Society in 2000, moved into buying after four years and has been buying The Society’s Spanish wines since 2008.

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‘Do little stupid things’ may not sound like a recipe for success. Nor, for that matter, the best fatherly advice for Daniel Niepoort on becoming Niepoort’s sixth-generation head of winemaking in 2021. However, the open-minded attitude and logic behind it – ‘because you learn the most’ – are what enabled Dirk van der Niepoort to transform a relatively obscure Port house, founded by his great-great-grandfather in 1842, into one of the best known and most influential Portuguese wine and Port producers in the world.

Top Niepoort wines to try

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With 25 hectares (ha) of premier cru vineyards in the Beaune appellation, Domaine Chanson (created in 1750) is one of the leading producers in this oft overlooked AP. In total, Chanson owns 45ha of premier and grand cru vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, ranging from vineyards in Corton in the north to Santenay in the south.

Domaine Chanson is centred around the formidable historical fortress, Le Bastion de l’Oratoire, which is built into the defensive walls of Beaune.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for eight Domaine Chanson wines

Originally commissioned by Louis XI and built between 1519-1524, the tower has walls up to eight metres thick and has been part of the Chanson operation since the French Revolution. Today, the four floors of the Bastion Chanson are designed for wine ageing – three floors for red and one for white wines.

See Andy Howard MW’s notes and scores for eight Domaine Chanson wines:

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The quickest way to get to the Similkameen Valley in Canada’s western province of British Columbia is to fly to Penticton then rent a car and drive 30 minutes southwest to Keremeos. But those in the know relish the four-hour, 350km drive up from Vancouver via the scenic Crowsnest Highway. It’s one of the world’s great road trips.

Heading inland from the Pacific coast, Crowsnest Highway (BC Hwy 3) winds up into the Cascade Mountains and through spectacular Manning Provincial Park, then chicanes back down again into the semi-arid southern BC interior. Through the mountains, the highway parallels a fast-flowing stream that eventually broadens out into the majestic Similkameen River, which then tracks the snaking road until reaching the farming town of Keremeos and nearby hamlet of Cawston.

The scenic Crowsnest Highway. Credit: Darren Robinson Photography

You’ve arrived in the Similkameen Valley, one of Canada’s most exciting wine regions hidden in plain sight. This emerging appellation lies, figuratively and literally, in the shadow of the much larger and more visited Okanagan Valley. Compared to the Okanagan, the Similkameen is blessedly empty of people. It is also stunningly beautiful, with soaring mountains framing the valley floor and vineyards interspersed among the older fruit orchards.

Undiscovered and unspoiled

The valley is arid and sunny, with less precipitation and more sunshine hours than almost any other BC wine region. That, plus the persistent winds that blow down from the surrounding mountains, helps keep the vineyards dry, clean and disease-free. No wonder Cawston is the organic farming capital of Canada.

Another key factor contributing to the exceptional fruit quality is the high diurnal range. While summer daytime temperatures on the valley floor can reach 40ºC, the nights are much cooler, resulting in a longer growing season and higher natural acidity in the grapes.

The bucolic Similkameen Valley. Credit: Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The region doesn’t yet have a distinctive wine identity, but there are some indicators of terroir affinity emerging. Riesling has planted a serious stake in these stony soils, as has Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon.

From just a couple of wineries a decade ago, there are now 12 cellar doors open to the public (from April to October), stretching 26km from Keremeos almost down to the US border. Most are small-scale and family-owned. For more information, visit Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The Similkameen Valley is a work in progress, but it retains a strong collective pioneering spirit among its farmers and winemakers – and the wine options are growing exponentially. There aren’t the hotels, restaurants and bars visitors might have experienced in other wine regions, but that is all part of the Similkameen’s charm: a relatively undiscovered and unspoiled corner of Canada with a real sense of place and authenticity. Which makes a visit here especially rewarding.

Six Similkameen Valley wineries to visit

Crowsnest Vineyards has some of the oldest vines in the Similkameen Valley.

Crowsnest Vineyards

In 2018, siblings Anna and Sascha Heinecke took over the reins from their parents at Crowsnest Vineyards, a family-run winery, restaurant and guesthouse. Since then they have pursued a vision of estate-grown, terroir-driven winemaking. They are custodians of some of the oldest vines in the valley, with original blocks of Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot first planted in 1989. With the family’s German heritage, their Riesling is particularly adept, with crisp minerality, balanced acidity and citrus fruit. Open daily in season.

The terrace at Seven Stones – perfect for watching raptors over the valley.

Seven Stones

After Seven Stones founder George Hanson died suddenly in 2021, seasoned winemaker Dwight Sick took charge at this charming winery in the southern Similkameen Valley. Sick believes strongly in sustainable agriculture and practises light-touch winemaking. Visit the underground barrel caves, unique in this region, and enjoy a tasting and picnic on the stunning terrace overlooking the Similkameen River below, while watching raptors hawking the valley. Open daily in season.

Orofino Vineyards

John and Virginia Weber founded Orofino Vineyards in 2001, after moving to the Similkameen Valley from Saskatchewan. Since then they have pioneered micro-terroir winemaking in the valley, creating a suite of ever more impressive wines each reflecting their unique sense of place. Most of their vineyards are on the Cawston Bench, but they’ve also acquired a high-altitude plot in the cooler Olalla Gap off Highway 3A north of Orofino and planted 1.2ha of Cabernet Franc there. While all Orofino’s wines are delicious, don’t miss their single vineyard Rieslings, in particular the Home Vineyard Old Vines. Open daily in season except Tuesdays.

Clos du Soleil champions red and white Bordeaux grape varieties.

Clos du Soleil

Set against the mountains on the Upper Bench above Keremeos, Clos du Soleil is forging its own vinous path, focused on the classic Bordeaux grape varietals. It’s surprising how well Cabernet Sauvignon does here at 49º North, contributing a distinctive perfumed elegance to the estate’s flagship Signature red blend. Co-owner/winemaker Mike Clark’s Capella white blend (Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc) is no slouch either. Open daily in season, by appointment.

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Owned by the Baessler family, who originally hail from Switzerland, second-generation Charlie and Jesce Baessler’s estate sits next door to Clos du Soleil overlooking Keremeos, with similar microclimatic conditions. The vine rows are planted north-south, which Charlie explains helps with sunlight exposure on these south-facing slopes. From its 12ha of planted grapes, Corcelettes makes around 6,000 cases of wine a year. An outdoor tasting on the upper patio perched above the vineyard is not to be missed. Reservations advised. Open daily in season.

An aerial view of Vanessa Vineyard.

Vanessa Vineyard

Named for the numerous butterflies that owner Suki Sekhon discovered on his first visit to this site – Vanessa is a Greek word for butterfly – Vanessa is one of the newer wineries in Similkameen. The west- and south-facing hillside vineyards and extremely rocky soils make this an ideal site for growing black grapes. The rocks absorb daytime heat, reflecting warmth back during the cool nights, which helps produce complex, intense flavours with notable minerality. Winemaker Howard Soon is a veteran in the BC wine world, and his estate-grown red wines are among the best in the valley. Open Thursday to Monday mid-April to end May, then daily in summer.

The picturesque Chopaka Bridge over the Similkameen River.

My perfect day in the Similkameen Valley

Morning

Start your day with a visit to Klippers Marketplace and Café, where a delicious breakfast of home-baked pastries, granola or fruit smoothies, accompanied by great espresso coffee, awaits. You can also stock up here on fresh organic produce, preserves and juices from the Klippers farm. After breakfast, head down Highway 3 to the southern end of the valley, home to several wineries – including Seven Stones. Or drive over the picturesque Chopaka Bridge to explore the more rural right (west) bank of the river. Just remember that most of this land is the traditional territory of the Lower Similkameen Indian Band, and respect their culture and customs when traversing it.

Lunch  and afternoon

Heading back up Highway 3, veer right onto Barcello Road, which hugs the base of the mountains to the east. After 6km, turn off onto Lowe Drive and head to Crowsnest Vineyards for a wine tasting and lunch at the Heinecke’s idyllic restaurant. Choose from house-made charcuterie platters with artisan sourdough breads, fresh salads and vegetables, and seasonal fruits – all grown by local farmers surrounding Crowsnest. After lunch, further winery visits await nearby in Cawston or on the benchlands above Keremeos. Riesling fans should make a beeline for Orofino, while lovers of both red and white Bordeaux blends will already have an appointment booked at Clos du Soleil.

Evening

The standout restaurant for dinner in the Similkameen is Row Fourteen. Yes, it’s located in the 14th row of the Klippensteins’ apple orchard! You can choose either the Herbivore or Locavore Harvest Menus, or order à la carte. Using all locally grown or farmed food, meals don’t get any fresher than this.

Your Similkameen Valley address book

The view from the deck at one of Orofino Vineyards’ suites.

Self-catering accommodation

Orofino Vineyards Suites

Two modern, elegantly appointed suites overlook the vineyards of this winery in Cawston. Located above the winery barrel room, the open-plan living/dining/kitchen areas are bright, spacious and lead onto large furnished decks. Kitchens are fully equipped to make great meals.

Similkameen Wild Resort Hotel

The closest thing to a resort hotel in the Similkameen. It’s located in the far south end of the valley so is quite isolated, but has a beautiful wilderness setting near the river and an outdoor swimming pool – a rarity in these parts. Accommodation ranges from mountain view suites with private balconies to a unique glamping option in two authentic indigenous tepees, one of which has a soaker tub. A continental breakfast is included.

Klippers Guest Suites

Surrounded by an apple orchard, this two-storey building has two ground-level and two upper-level suites, all with three bedrooms. All suites have well-equipped modern kitchens and dining/living areas, and outdoor decks or patios with barbeques. A short walk to Row Fourteen restaurant (see below).

Row Fourteen restaurant is set in an apple orchard.

Restaurants

Row Fourteen

The region’s top-rated restaurant leads the way with brilliant fresh food in an elegant, airy space and large outdoor patio. The restaurant celebrates the region, from farm to vineyard to forest. Great selection of Similkameen Valley wines. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday-Tuesday. Reservations required for dinner.

The Farm Store

More café than restaurant, you can nevertheless have a delicious breakfast here, and they also serve light lunches in summer. Open in season, check hours online.

Crowsnest Vineyards

A charming, casual restaurant attached to the winery of the same name. If weather permits, eat outdoors on the patio beside the vines. Think charcuterie and cheese platters, home-baked sourdough bread, and wine flights. Open for lunch and dinner. Enquire about their outdoor wood-fired pizza nights.

Shopping

Stop off at one or more of the many fruit and vegetable stalls that line the Crowsnest Highway just before Keremeos (the fruit stand capital of Canada) and in Cawston (Canada’s organic farming capital). Load up on delicious seasonal fruits and veggies such as peaches, apples, apricots, garlic, heirloom tomatoes, corn and much more.

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Champagne Telmont, a Damery-based house that is part of the Rémy Cointreau group, has recently finished trials of an 800g Champagne bottle, made in partnership with glass manufacturer Verallia, that pushes the very lower weight limits of what is technologically possible for bottle-fermented wines. The lightest standard bottles currently available are 835g.

Does shaving off a further 35g really make much difference to carbon emissions? Ludovic du Plessis, president of Champagne Telmont, thinks so: ‘Our goal is to become net positive by 2050….when we looked at our carbon footprint, 24% of it is from the bottle. We need to tackle the product,’ he said.

The 35g reduction saves a further 4% on production alone. It wasn’t easy to come by, though. ‘We couldn’t play with the bottom of the bottle as it receives too much shock,’ du Plessis addwd, so the weight loss ended up coming from the shoulders.

Telmont’s findings mirror that of Champagne’s pioneering efforts to measure its carbon footprint in 2003, which found that only about 15% of the region’s carbon emissions come from the vineyard and winemaking activities. Combine that with packaging and freight, though, and the figure is almost 50%. Since 2011, bottle weight has been reduced from 900g to 835g, already saving 8,000 tonnes of CO2 per year.

Telmont’s new bottles, made from 87% recycled glass, underwent a rigorous crash test regime that involved 3,000 units undergoing not only a full second fermentation, but also disgorgement, labelling, freighting, temperature tests and even a trial shipment to Singapore. After six months, only one bottle had broken.

Explosions were common in the 19th century, even though Champagne bottles weighed well over 1kg. Manufacturing irregularity and winemaking imprecision meant that around 5% of Champagne bottles did not survive the pressure created during the in-bottle fermentation (a number which was regularly between 20%-80% until 1836 when Champenois chemist Jean-Baptiste François invented a scale that allowed winemakers to precisely measure the amount of sugar required). Visitors to Champagne’s cellars will still see some (strategically-placed) exploded bottles, reminders of the somewhat hazardous work of the past.

A return to such risky times is clearly something the Champenois want to avoid, but Telmont’s lighter bottle is an example of how the Damery-based house appears prepared to go further than most in its ecological pledges. Its 46-page sustainability guide of January 2023 includes a commitment to ensure not only its own 25ha vineyards are organic, but the 55ha of bought-in grapes are, too; a move no other major house in Champagne has made. ‘Some of the growers don’t want to be organic, so we cannot renew their contracts. But there is a new generation in Champagne coming to us, asking to join,’ said Du Plessis.

He also pointed out that, unlike organics, Telmont sees no real benefit from the lighter bottle other than for its carbon footprint. ‘There are no patents, no exclusivity. If only Telmont end up using it, the whole exercise is pointless’, he said. Telmont’s commitment to use the bottles for all of its wines means there can be no clear glass (which uses no recycled glass, unlike the 87% used in the green bottle) and no special bottle shapes, either.

Following the trial, Telmont will be making 30,000 bottles in the new 800g shape, and the organic cuvée Réserve de la Terre will be available in these bottles from 2026.

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Six new Peruvian wine grape varieties have been identified by researchers in the desert province of Caravelí in the Arequipa region of south Peru.

DNA tests conducted by the Instituto de Biotecnología de la Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina (IBT-UNALM) in Peru and the Instituto de Investigaciones Agropecuarias (INIA) in Chile have confirmed the identity of six new grape varieties: Jaen, Cantarilla, Ceniza (also known locally as Mulata), Negra de Caravelí, Loca and Moscatel Negra Rubío.

Each of these grape varieties is as yet unregistered with the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC).

The newly discovered Jaén grape variety

At least two of the varieties, the white Jaén (above) and the red Cantarilla (top) – both natural crossings of Negra Criolla and a local variant of Moscatel d’Alexandría – are considered to have organoleptic characteristics worthy of propagation for wine production.

In addition, Ceniza, Negra de Caravelí, Loca and Moscatel Negra Rubío – four newly identified mutations of the Negra Criolla variety – have been deemed to warrant further research.

Lead researcher Keith Díaz (below), an agronomy engineer from the Caravelí region, is now seeking registration for these varieties in the VIVC international wine grape registry. In addition, Díaz is developing a digital ‘geo-referencing’ tool to ensure traceability and quality should anyone wish to propagate them.

Researcher and agronomy engineer Keith Díaz

‘From the study carried out, it has been possible to observe that two grapes – Cantarilla and Jaén – have the greatest potential for wine due to the good levels of tartaric acidity that they achieve in the field with an early harvest,’ Diaz said. ‘This is something that Ceniza, for example, did not show on this occasion.

‘It is important to continue experimenting with these grapes to obtain more complete data.’

Though best known as a Pisco-producing nation, Peru has a long history of wine production. The Spanish colonialists arrived in the early 1500s, bringing vine material to the Americas for the first time. Historical archives indicate the sale of vineyards in Lima in 1540. Lima was founded in 1535.

Until now Quebranta – a natural crossing of Negra Criolla and Mollar Cano used in Pisco production – was thought to be Peru’s only unique wine grape variety.

Caravelí is a small, isolated wine region with a mere 70ha under vine. It is located at around 1,700m above sea level, eight hours’ drive from the nearest city of Arequipa, and around five hours’ drive from the Majes Valley, its closest winemaking neighbour.

The grape census was undertaken by Díaz with ampelographic technical support from Sebastian Debernardi. Further support was provided by Mario Casas, president of the Wine and Pisco Makers Association of Caravelí. Financing for the project was provided by the Provincial Municipality of Caravelí.

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With 5,848ha under vine Uruguay is becoming one of the most closely observed emerging wine producers in the world, with the focus here mostly on quality whites and the flagship Tannat reds.

Uruguayan wine regions are coastal, meaning that their climate is defined by prevailing winds from the Río de la Plata and the Atlantic Ocean, which usually ensure plenty of rainfall, especially in summer.

However, this wasn’t true of the 2023 harvest. Uruguay suffered from its most severe drought in 50 years and, of course, the lack of water was felt by the vineyards. The drought was coupled with severe heat that brought forward ripening times by 15 days.

This is an effect of climate change, which has in fact been somewhat beneficial for Uruguay, as the oenologist Ricardo Cabrera, president of the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura – Vinos del Uruguay (INAVI) – said.

‘The 2023 harvest in Uruguay produced a 23% lower yield compared to the previous year due to the drought, which ran from September 2022, the budding period, onwards. However, it also resulted in grapes of excellent health, with good levels of alcohol and aromas, lending them unusual balance. The wines from the 2023 harvest will undoubtedly get people talking with their quality and stability. The quality makes up for the drop in yields.’

Grapes arrive at Pizzorno winery in Canelones Credit: Uruguay Wine

The value of water

Given the dry year, the availability of irrigation systems was a key factor in Uruguay. As this is a country where average rainfall has traditionally been sufficient, only more recent vineyard projects, mainly located to the east where the soils are poor and stony, are equipped with drip irrigation. In 2023 this was a great blessing.

In the historic wine-producing regions such as Canelones and Montevideo, where 75% of vineyards are located, irrigation was rarely necessary as the clay soils retain enough humidity for the roots of the vines. But this year, some water reserves were exhausted, leading to the blocking of vines during ripening. This in turn led to the drop in yields mentioned by Cabrera.

Gabriel Pisano, a producer from El Progreso, Canelones, reported: ‘In this area, because of the clay soils, the plants get along without irrigation. The clay retains more humidity and adult plants with roots that have delved deep are always able to produce nicely. But in other areas, there were significant drops in yields, as much as 30% in some vineyards.’

‘The year was a dry one throughout the growing season and irrigation was necessary in every vineyard. In normal years, you only need to irrigate in the eastern vineyards, very rarely in the south, but this time it was required shortly after budding began,’ said Eduardo Boido de Bouza at the Las Violetas winery in Canelones.

In summary, the lack of rain and high temperatures made for a healthy year in the vineyards, but a brief harvest window and lower yields.

Around the regions

In spite of the often-difficult conditions, each of the viticultural regions of Uruguay enjoyed excellent health, which will result in high quality, expressive wines – albeit in lower quantities. ‘The quality of the grapes went up a notch, we’re going to have great wines this year,’ said Santiago Deicas of Familia Deicas, which owns vineyards across Uruguay .

‘The conditions meant that we could harvest all the grapes in a lovely state of ripeness, which can be difficult sometimes in Uruguay,’ says Eduardo Boido of Bodega Bouza in Canelones. ‘I think that the whites, like the Chardonnay, are going to present excellent aromas and volume.’

Meanwhile, Pisano added: ‘We’re seeing significant concentration in the whites and reds, but they’re still maintaining their usual freshness. It was a fantastic year for the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a quality that’s hard to achieve in other years. The Tannats are delicious.’

To the east of Uruguay, the ocean breezes brought some rain during the budding season, which proved to be enough to ensure good grape development. Germán Bruzzone at Bodega Garzón said: ‘We made sure we got very healthy, expressive and fresh fruit. I sense this will be a year of great wines. The low pHs mean tart acidity, the whites have good colour and the reds will have gentle tannins because we were able to let them ripen on their own time. In fact, we harvested 15 days earlier than usual.’

Tannat vineyard at Narbona winery Credit: Uruguay Wine

Varieties to watch

In the northern region, scattered rains in spring ensured good bunch development. Francisco Carrau at Cerro Chapeu is excited about the reds. ‘I was surprised by the results we’re getting with Arinarnoa, a variety we’ve been working on for years; while the Tannats are delicious with good ripeness and freshness,’ he said.

To the south, Rodolfo Bartora at Los Cerros de San Juan winery in Colonia reported that, ‘the wines that stand out are mainly the whites, which have excellent concentration and character, such as the Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. The reds developed good alcohol and polyphenols. The wines will be very concentrated, with plenty of fruit and volume in the mouth. I’m enthused about the Pinot Noir, Marselan, Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, in addition to the Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat’.

*Figures for 2022 from Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura – Vinos del Uruguay (INAVI)

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How many wines can you name that contain over 20 grape varieties? Here’s one: Château de Montfaucon’s Lirac, Vin de Monsieur le Baron. Having tasted every vintage back to 2007, I can state with certainty that it’s one of Lirac’s greatest red wines.

If this sounds like faint praise, it’s not meant to. Admittedly, Lirac doesn’t currently have the same cachet as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it’s just on the other side of the Rhône river and has some pockets of exceptional terroir. What’s more, while the greatest Châteauneuf might set you back £400 a bottle, you can find Vin de Monsieur le Baron for closer to £40.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for verticals of Vin de Monsieur le Baron and Vin de Madame la Comtesse

See the full verticals for Vin de Madame la Comtesse and Vin de Monsieur le Baron:

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From child-friendly activities through to cellar tours and Michelin-starred restaurants, the below selection highlights the best of what you can do in Bordeaux in 2023 and has something for every wine lover.

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When the Prosecco DOC was written into law in 2009, along with two DOCGs – the hilly prominences of Asolo and Conegliano Valdobbiadene – it meant that Prosecco could now be produced in a 250km-wide zone encompassing nine provinces, from Vicenza in Veneto to Trieste in Friuli Venezia Giulia.

It was a vast expansion from the traditional centre of production of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, which had been recognised as a DOC since 1969. Whether this was down to the need to embrace the town named Prosecco, located in Trieste, to justify the naming of the new DOC, or that the minister of agriculture responsible for signing on the dotted line, Luca Zaia, was from Conegliano (and the following year was appointed president of Veneto, a position he has held ever since), the fact is that these game-changing moves turned Prosecco into a powerhouse whose ascent seems unstoppable.

Scroll down for a selection of top Proseccos to try

But, nearly 15 years on, the key questions are: have consumers begun to tire of Prosecco’s typical apple, pear and flowers profile; and is there more to this area than affordable bubbles?

Broad appeal: the variety of taste in Prosecco

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The land on which Georges and Daniel Daou’s eponymous estate sits has always been highly regarded. However, under their guardianship its true potential has been released, today the source of critically acclaimed wines.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 11 wines from Daou and Patrimony Estate

Soul of a Lion and more: 11 wines from Daou and Patrimony Estate

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The year 2017 was a memorable one in Rioja for two reasons. First, on 28 April, came the great frost, which also wreaked its chilly havoc over Bordeaux and swathes of northern Europe. Some producers were lucky enough to suffer less than others, but even then, the vintage was greatly reduced. In due course, nature revived – as it nearly always does.

The second event has caused more long-lasting effects. This was the decision to introduce a category of Vinos de Municipio, commonly translated in English as ‘village wines’.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 great Rioja village wines

It sounds like a long overdue step to give recognition to Rioja’s villages. After all, this is one of the many charms of Rioja. As you drive through the wine country, a series of strikingly lovely villages are stretched out along the road, each one beckoning the visitor.

A selection of 10 distinctive Rioja village wines

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Clear skies, crystal-clear rivers and clean air: the 2020 vintage started while the world was in lockdown. Going to work in the vineyards was one of the few permissible activities at the time (lucky vignaioli!).

The most genuine producers confess to having taken extraordinarily good care of their vines during the Covid pandemic like never before. No fairs, no visiting importers, no tastings.

Barbaresco wines from 2020 emerged as graceful with unexpected, sweet tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2020 wines

Tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2020 wines:

The following wines all scores 93 points or above

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César Giron, CEO of GH Mumm, paid tribute to Laurent Fresnet in a statement issued by the house:

‘Acknowledged by all for his authenticity, his generosity, his kindness and his communicative energy, Laurent Fresnet was beloved by everyone. He brought to Mumm his passion for wine, his affection for the terroir and his vision of excellence. He added an important chapter to the history of the house.’

Fresnet grew up in the Champagne village of Sillery, on the northern face of the Montagne de Reims.

He studied in Champagne, then worked for Champagne Claude Cazals in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and at La Vigneronne co-operative in Vertus.

Following these roles, his 13 years at the helm of Champagne Henriot saw the house steadily raise its standing in the region.

Fresnet also cemented his own reputation as one of the region’s top winemakers. He is responsible for some of Henriot’s best-regarded wines in recent times, including the Cuve 38 magnums and the refinement of the prestige cuvée, Cuvée Hemera.

After GH Mumm cellar master Didier Mariotti moved to Veuve Clicquot in 2019, Fresnet subsequently took the reins at the house. GH Mumm, together with sister house Perrier-Jouët, is the sixth largest producer in the region.

Fresnet’s creative mindset very quickly found an outlet, with the house partnering with neuroscientist Gabriel Lepousez and designer Octave de Gaulle to offer guests a unique sensory experience that highlighted the house’s fascination with Pinot Noir.

By showing the same wine in specially designed glasses of different colours, contours and weights, alongside carefully selected aromas highlighting different stages in the winemaking process, Fresnet gave visitors a glimpse of the imaginative, inquisitive and meticulous mindset that characterised his life’s work in Champagne.

Fresnet and Mumm marked the post-pandemic ‘re-opening’ of Champagne in 2022 with a celebration of the house’s most treasured older magnums in the Moulin de Verzenay, the emblematic windmill that looks down over Fresnet’s home town of Sillery in the Pinot Noir vineyards that Fresnet knew so intimately.

It was an event that left a mark on the attendees, not only because of the wines themselves but also for the wide-ranging, thoughtful and warm discussion that followed.

As Champagne journalist Sophie Claeys reported, Fresnet was known for his ‘kindness, conviviality and humour’, he was happy to share his work with anyone that shared his passion.

This is something Champagne writer Tom Stevenson knew well: ‘When I last met Laurent in May 2022, he asked me whether there was any particular vintage I would like to taste to finish up with. I said the 1955 in magnum, of course, because it’s the greatest Mumm vintage in living memory. “Give me a minute”, he said, and 20 minutes later he returned, dripping with sweat, magnum in hand. It was tucked in a corner over a kilometre away in the cellars and he had run both ways!’

As a native Champenois from a family of growers, Fresnet’s ethos was grounded very much in the relationships with the house’s own vineyards and the growers he worked with.

Paying tribute, GH Mumm said Fresnet was ‘recognised by his peers in Champagne for his pragmatic approach, his remarkable knowledge of terroir and his expertise in appreciating the potential of each wine.’

His legacy will have a long life in the cellars and glasses of Champagne lovers worldwide.

Our thoughts are with Laurent Fresnet’s family and colleagues at this time.

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Sarah Jane Evans MW, Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW and Pierre Mansour tasted 105 wines with 7 Outstanding and 76 Highly recommended.

Red Rioja £20-£40: panel tasting scores

105 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 76

Recommended 22

Commended 0

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red Riojas priced at £20-£40 (or $20-$40), with any Rioja classification of gran reserva, reserva, crianza or genérico permitted

How low can red Rioja reserva and gran reserva go? A quick web search reveals that in price terms it’s down to £5.75 and £10 respectively. Just how can Spain’s first DOCa – created in 1991 – sell itself so cheaply?

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring wines from the red Rioja £20-£40 panel tasting

Red Rioja £20-£40 panel tasting scores

The judges

Sarah Jane Evans MW is a Decanter contributing editor and Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards. Her latest book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain is set for release in early 2024.

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW is a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He holds a degree in agronomical engineering and a Masters in viticulture and oenology, is a national expert for Spain at the OIV organisation and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain.

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, where he has worked for 23 years. Starting out with merchant Berry Bros & Rudd, he joined The Wine Society in 2000, moved into buying after four years and has been buying The Society’s Spanish wines since 2008.

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The first vertical tasting of Guidalberto, Tenuta San Guido’s Merlot-based wine, took place in March 2023 in London, hosted by UK importer Armit Wines alongside Priscilla Incisa della Rochetta from the estate.

Tenuta San Guido is world-famous for Sassicaia, the Cabernet-based blend from Tuscany which was first released onto the market in 1971 with the 1968 vintage, and quickly became one of the world’s most sought-after wines.

In 2000, Tenuta San Guido released the first vintage of Guidalberto. Originally it was intended to be a more affordable and approachable wine, making it more accessible to a wider audience at a much earlier stage in its evolution. That is still the case today, but when the team were tasting some of the earlier vintages at the estate, they discovered that Guidalberto showed a surprising capacity to age.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for eight Guidalberto vintages between 2001 and 2021

The name Guidalberto celebrates an ancestor of the Incisa family, Guidalberto della Gherardesca, who lived in Bolgheri in the early 19th century. He was not only a pioneer in agricultural practices but was also responsible for the planting of the Viale dei Cipressi, the famous 5km-long cypress avenue that has become the symbol of the Bolgheri area.

Guidalberto 2021 & seven older vintages tasted and rated

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