Mattia Scarpazza has worked for the best part of a decade at Petersham Nurseries Café, near Richmond-upon-Thames, currently as head sommelier. Since completing his WSET Diploma in 2019, he has pursued his interest in wine communication, with articles published in The Buyer and Sommelier Collective, also producing a podcast @lookingintowine.

Like many other Italian grapes, Pignolo is part of a group of obscure but remarkable varieties. Producers of Pignolo are releasing an ever-increasing number of accomplished wines, but the market is yet to catch up with it. I’m ready for it when it does.

The heartlands of Pignolo are Colli Orientale and Gorizia in Friuli. Both of these regions in northeast Italy are typically associated with white wines, but production of reds is growing steadily.

Pignolo produces wines that are deep red in colour with aromas of fresh flowers, bramble and olives; the tannins are robust and packed, balanced by uplifted acidity. Long maturation is proving the right way to produce Pignolo – think of the attributes of a gran reserva Rioja, although such an appellation does not exist in the region, yet. The wines are typically aged in large botti, though experimentation with amphorae is ongoing.

In my experience, the most soulful Pignolos are released into the market at around the 10 year mark – for example, Josko Gravner’s Rosso Breg 2006 (£305/magnum in bond, Starling Wines) was released in 2020 and Le Vigne di Zamò, Rosazzo Pignolo 2009 released in 2019.

What I’ve loved most from my explorations of this variety is how many producers tend to buck the trends, growing a variety that until recently wasn’t on anyone’s radar and then maturing it for a long time – showing a true belief in its potential. Pignolo is low-yielding compared to the more widely planted Refosco grape, and plantings had fallen sharply – but the trend is slowly reversing, thanks to a better understanding of the grape.

It will be interesting to see what the future has in store for Pignolo, as producers are coming together to promote the variety. At the moment there are only about 50 estates that produce varietal Pignolo, but I’m certain this number will increase as its popularity grows. And not just in the region itself – I know of two producers who are looking at planting it in California.

Pignolo has the right to sit at the table of varieties known for their ageing ability, among the likes of Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe that the best examples of Pignolo can easily age for 20 years or more, developing notes of cedarwood, cracked pepper and sweet spices as they evolve.

When it comes to food matching, much like Sangiovese, Pignolo shows at its best when served with a slow-cooked lamb shank with herbs and spices, polenta and seasonal greens – or try it with feta and tapenade on grilled bread.

A last word of advice: Pignolo wines are usually only available from specialist independent wine merchants, and in small quantities – these are not wines you will come across on the supermarket shelves. But it is worth the effort to seek them out.

Discover Pignolo: Scarpazza’s three to try

Ermacora, Pignolo (2016, £35 Vindinista) is a superb way to explore the variety, with its distinctive freshness, rich tannins and typical black olive aromas.

I would also highly recommend Radikon, Pignoli (2004, £72/50cl Buon Vino). Aged for a minimum of five years in botti and then cellared for six years, this is one for those who are looking to experience a mature, prime example of Pignolo. Enjoy the aromas – a medley of ripe red fruits and sweet spices – and the alluring palate.

For a more modern take on the grape, try the Visintini, Amphora series bottling (2014, £18.95 Lea & Sandeman). Fermented and matured in clay vessels, it’s abundant in wildflower and plum aromas.

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All the world’s major cities have more than their fair share of Italian restaurants, and London – with more than 2,000, according to one recent estimate – is no exception. But over the past 36 years Italian food has had a disproportionate influence on the dining scene here, thanks to one restaurant, The River Café, which opened on the banks of the Thames in Hammersmith in 1987, and placed the same importance on wine as it did on food.

It also spawned a whole generation of entrepreneurial young chefs who adopted the philosophy and set up their own restaurants in the River Café mould. Most notably Jamie Oliver, but also including Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Sam and Sam Clark, Stevie Parle and Theo Randall.

None of them were Italian, and neither were their River Café mentors Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray, two women who were just passionate about Italian food. Nor indeed was another ambassador for regional Italian cooking, Angela Hartnett, who came to fame through the Gordon Ramsay stable (but at least has an Italian grandmother). The only Italian to dominate the London scene in quite that way has been Giorgio Locatelli, who opened his eponymous restaurant Locanda Locatelli in 2002.

Wines to match

Maybe it’s because they were outsiders that these chefs appreciated just what simple Italian food had to offer without having the desire to reinvent it. Coincidentally, the wine offering at many of these establishments was moulded by another outsider, Canadian David Gleave MW, who used to work for Italian importer Enotria before setting up his own business Liberty Wines, and who has consistently championed the huge diversity of Italian wines.

These pioneer restaurants were fortunate to have been established when they were. Today’s restaurateurs are no less interested in wine, but are having to operate under far greater constraints, not least the crippling expense of trading in central London. This has led many to focus on just pasta or, even more profitably, pizza, and high-margin cocktails rather than wine. But there are still some real gems with fantastic wine lists out there, so treat yourself at one of the best London Italian restaurants you may not have heard of.

Bocca di Lupo

12 Archer Street, W1D 7BB
Nearest tube: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square

Savvy Italophiles cherish the knowledge that there is a small oasis of civilisation in the midst of the West End theatreland madness – Jacob Kenedy’s small convivial restaurant Bocca di Lupo. Kenedy, one of those rare chefs who is genuinely interested in wine, spends time in Italy sourcing bottles for his imaginative, regionally based wine list, picking up ideas for dishes along the way. The seafood risotto I had there recently was inspired by a summer trip to Campania.

Although the compact dining room is cosy, it’s more fun sitting at the bar to watch the kitchen at work and the food going out at the pass. Great for a pre-theatre drink and a snack.

Don’t miss Kenedy’s regularly changing themed menus that make the most of seasonal ingredients such as artichokes and truffles.

Brutto

35-37 Greenhill Rents, EC1M 6BN
Nearest tube: Farringdon/Barbican

Credit: Paul Winch-Furness

A new restaurant from Russell Norman (ex Polpo) is always newsworthy, but this self-consciously kitsch Farringdon trattoria extends his usual territory – beyond the cicchetti bars of Venice – to Florence. It’s a homely menu full of hearty rustic dishes like pappardelle with rabbit and sausages with lentils, accompanied by hearty Tuscan wines (although there is also bistecca alla Fiorentina if you feel like splashing out). No culinary fireworks, no wallet-busting wines, just a really fun place to hang out with friends – though be warned, it can be noisy. Oh, and there’s Chianti in fiaschi (the straw-covered bottles).

Don’t miss Kicking off with one of Norman’s excellent £5 Negroni cocktails.

Eataly

Broadgate Circle, 135 Bishopsgate, EC2M 3YD
Nearest tube: Liverpool Street

If Las Vegas created an Italian deli it would look something like Eataly, a mind-blowingly huge selection of every type of Italian food and drink you can imagine, with walls full of different wines. You will probably be so exhausted going round it you’ll need a pitstop, which is the main reason to eat at one of its three restaurants and bars. These are not, I think it’s fair to say, in the same league as the rest of the restaurants in this line-up. So why am I including Eataly? Because you can buy one of the excellent bottles and take it into a restaurant for a modest corkage fee, and if you stick to salumi, cheese or pizza you could spend a very congenial couple of hours doing your midweek shopping. And it’s an extraordinary experience.

Don’t miss The opportunity to shop for your next dinner party.

Enoteca Turi

87 Pimlico Road, SW1W 8PH
Nearest tube: Sloane Square

Around for more than 30 years, Enoteca Turi only recently moved to its current home in Pimlico – but it fits it like a glove. It’s highly personal and quite charmingly old-fashioned. When I visited, a slightly doddery octogenarian was being escorted to the door on the arm of one of the waiting staff with a cheery ‘See you on Saturday’. The other draw is the quite exceptional wine list, clearly a passion of the owner Giuseppe Turi and something that no restaurant starting from scratch these days could possibly afford. If you were dining alone it would keep you happily engrossed throughout the meal. Traditional dishes like calf’s liver and rabbit in porchetta are also matched with wines on the list.

Don’t miss The chance to dive into some stellar old Barolo wines.

Luca

88 St John Street, EC1M 4EH
Nearest tube: Farringdon/Barbican

An unlikely offshoot of London’s famous Clove Club in Shoreditch, Luca combines a top-end fine-dining restaurant with an exceptionally cosy trat-style bar. With a great list of its own, the restaurant is very focused on wine lovers. Let them know what you want to drink in advance and they’ll make sure it’s perfectly served – or bring along your own bottle for a corkage charge of £35. The food is more Britalian than classic Italian: pretty and light, although pasta is a particularly strong suit. I could eat the celestial crab cacio e pepe every day. Skim through the wine list (which comes on an iPad) for a suitable match. There’s a particularly good selection by the glass.

Don’t miss The addictive Parmesan fries (with a glass of Franciacorta).

Manteca

49-51 Curtain Road, EC2A 3PT
Nearest tube: Old Street

Credit: Anton Rodriguez

One of the leading lights of the new breed of natural wine bars and restaurants but with an Italian twist and the USP of an ‘in house’ salumeria (ask for a seat opposite the slicing machine so you can watch the action). There are also lots of other fashionably on-trend features such as house-made ricotta, home-made sausages and hand-rolled pasta. It’s a very short stroll from Old Street station in the lively Shoreditch/Hoxton area, and the excellent Passione e Vino is almost next door if you want to do a bit of a natural wine crawl. (Manteca also offers more classic wine dinner options, too.)

Don’t miss The house Mortadella.

Murano

20 Queen Street, W1J 5PP
Nearest tube: Green Park

Credit: John Carey

Angela Hartnett has become such a familiar face on our screens that it’s easy to forget she’s also a successful restaurateur. Murano in Mayfair is her original – and most expensive – restaurant, but it’s not in the least bit stuffy and, unusually for an Italian restaurant, offers both vegetarian and vegan menus. For those who don’t want to stick to Italian wine there are plenty of other options, including a significant amount of Burgundy, though by-the-glass is definitely not the way to go here. Dive into the less familiar byways of the list – including a surprisingly large selection of sweet wines – and there are some much more affordable picks.

Don’t miss Hartnett’s pied de mouton mushroom risotto (part of an innovative vegan set lunch).

Theo Randall at the InterContinental

1 Hamilton Place, W1J 7QY
Nearest tube: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Credit: Chris Terry

If you don’t fancy schlepping over to the River Café’s somewhat out-of-the way Hammersmith location (or don’t fancy its prices), you could do worse than try its former head chef Theo Randall’s restaurant at the InterContinental on Hyde Park Corner. Hotel restaurants aren’t always the most exciting venues but this is an elegant, quiet, central spot with very accomplished cooking and a more than decent wine list (an advantage of being part of an international hotel chain). The pasta is particularly good, as you’d expect from a River Café alumnus.

Don’t miss The excellent monthly regional menus. The weekend brunches are great value, too.

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The post A taste of Italy in London appeared first on Decanter.

Entering the Bubble Room at J Vineyards & Winery in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, diners attending the Shifting the Lens dinner encountered a sensory experience different from a traditional wine pairing meal. The table linens were a brightly coloured orange and pink print, colourful flowers floated in water as centrepieces at each table and the wafting aromas of Indian cuisine filled the room. This was a far cry from the usual understated tasting environment expected in the wine industry.

Chef Preeti Mistry is partnering with J for Shifting the Lens, which spotlights diversity through a series of wine-pairing dinners. Mistry paired Indian-inspired dishes with classic Russian River Valley still and sparkling wines from the extensive J portfolio for the event.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for two J Vineyards wines from Brianne Cohen

A new approach to pairings

Chef Preeti Mistry at Shifting the Lens. Credit: Nikki Ritcher

J, founded by Judy Jordan in 1986, was one of the first California producers to make still and sparkling wines. The depth of the J portfolio – which includes over 30 wines – lends itself to experimentation and pairing potential for Shifting the Lens, which launched in 2022 with three chefs.

London-born Mistry grew up in the US. Mistry is Indian and identifies as queer. They are a James Beard Foundation nominee and Top Chef contestant. Mistry trained at Le Cordon Bleu in London and had two acclaimed Bay Area restaurants: Juhu Beach Club and Navi Kitchen. In 2020 Mistry and their wife moved to a cabin in the woods in Guerneville rural Sonoma, where they eventually met the team at J.

Mistry and the J team created the dinner series as a mutual idea and vision. Mistry’s role was to focus on recruiting chefs cooking non-European cuisine who also had a sensibility for social justice and change. Mistry says: ‘We want people who are about something. Who have a distinct point of view and have something to share and bring to the table in these conversations.’

Mistry created a five-course culinary experience that included Indian-inspired dishes and farm-to-table ingredients – two things that are not mutually exclusive. At Mistry’s two Bay Area restaurants, they went to farmers’ markets twice a week, had relationships with multiple farmers, and made most menu items from scratch – all things that epitomise farm-to-table.

True farm-to-table

Credit: Nikki Ritcher

Mistry shares that in an unaired scene for Parts Unknown, filmed at Juhu Beach Club, Anthony Bourdain exclaimed: ‘THIS is the real farm to table’, after meeting one of the service staffers who was also a grower/producer that Preeti sourced from. Mistry continues: ‘There’s this deep assumption that if you’re cooking European cuisine in a nice enough environment, they must use the best (farm-to-table) ingredients. But someone like myself has to shout it from the rooftops to get people to believe the same thing.’

At the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in late January, it was reported that by 2040, 55% of 30-year-olds in the US will identify as multicultural (Census Bureau US). The importance of diversifying who drinks and learns about wine is not lost on Mistry, as the food world is in the same predicament. According to Mistry: ‘The larger dining world hasn’t made itself welcoming or inclusive. You’ll get left behind if you don’t meet the basic expectation of having a more “poly-cultural” outlook with your wine, brand, or experiences.’

In crafting their Shifting the Lens menu, Mistry aimed to create pairings to make you think and to question assumptions. Trial and error reigned in the tasting trials. Mistry and the J team wrote up pairing ideas, and not one made the final menu. ‘My goal is to create an experience where you taste two things together and get to another place. A third place,’ Mistry says.

‘People assume you don’t drink red wine with Indian food,’ comments Mistry. ‘I want to dispel this myth that there are these prescribed rules about what you’re supposed to have with certain cuisines.’

One of the highlights of the dinner was a single-vineyard Pinot Noir paired with an eggplant biryani dish. Mistry felt a structured Pinot Noir could hold up to the myriad of Indian spices in the dish: ‘For me, it’s about adding another dimension to the dish and creating another experience.’

Shifting the Lens – seeing themselves

Mistry reinforces the idea that people want to see themselves. ‘When I grew up in the eighties, I didn’t have high expectations because we literally didn’t exist in the media.’ Millenials and Generation Z expect to see a representation of themselves. ‘I now expect to see the companies I want to champion doing good things. I want to see my values represented and mirrored in some way.’

Next up for Shifting the Lens is a second series of culinary experiences with Mistry and two other chefs. First up in May, chef Tu David Phu, an Oakland-born first-generation Vietnamese-American whose family hails from the island of Phu Quoc, the birthplace of fish sauce in Asia. His family has produced small-batch artisanal Phu Quoc Fish Sauce, considered the Champagne of fish sauces, since 1895.

Chef Ana Castro will join the Shifting the Lens family in September. Ana was raised in Mexico City but resides in New Orleans, where she runs the restaurant Lengua Madre, showcasing Mexican cuisine but with a southern American sensibility.

Two J Vineyards wines to try

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Red wines made from Tannat are classically deep-hued and intense with a lush kernel of black fruit, from plums to black cherry and cassis, wrapped in plenty of tannins that can range from bold to fine-grained and supple, with decisions in the vineyard and the cellar resulting in varying styles.

Scroll down to see tasting notes & scores for 15 top Tannat wines

Balance is always the key, and some of the best recent examples of Tannat wines integrate the variety’s tannin content with natural acidity and bright fruit – as the examples below show.

You can also find Tannat being used to make rosé wines.

Madiran

In Madiran, Tannat’s traditional heartland of south-west France, you might find Tannat blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc.

Producers have been working with ways to manage tannin content in the wines to ensure a harmonious balance with other elements, according to the region’s wine body.

Lauded wine producer Alain Brumont is known for pioneering a new wave of pure Tannat wines in Madiran, launching his Château Montus Prestige in 1985.

Yohan Castaing tasted several vintages at a Montus and La Tyre vertical in 2022, including the 2000.

‘A gorgeously fleshy mouthfeel, brimming with energy, lengthening a finish that consolidates its profound substance but also reveals surprising subtlety and delicacy. This vintage joins the ranks of the great ones,’ Castaing wrote.

It’s possible to make lighter styles of Tannat varietal wines, too. This cooperative-made Madiran is 90% Tannat and shows a ‘lighter touch’ with supple tannins yet opulent fruit, according to Decanter’s Stephen Brook. 

This Plaimont, Château de Crouseilles wine is 100% Tannat. It’s ‘robust, brooding and tannic enough to pair well with full-flavoured meat dishes, but has plenty of ripe dark fruit to balance the power’, said Decanter’s Amy Wislocki. 

Beyond France, this Lake Anna Winery Tannat from Virginia in the US shows ‘dense bittersweet figs and prunes backed by fresher juicy berries and bold tannins’, wrote Jason Tesauro.

Tannat wines in Uruguay: Is this a new ‘Malbec’ story?

However, Uruguay is the country most making a name for itself with fascinating styles of Tannat.

Jane Anson wrote in 2017 that Uruguay was the only country to have taken in Tannat as its national grape, a move that inevitably invites comparisons with how Argentina reimagined Malbec.

‘Estates like Bodega Garzon – located in a coastal village of the same name, close to Punta del Este by coincidence – have produced a more contemporary-styled version that is helping to smooth Tannat’s image of rustic, hard tannins in international markets,’ Anson wrote.

Tim Atkin MW marvelled at Uruguay’s ‘great ascent’ in this article in 2020.

And he cited a ‘world-class’ example of Tannat from Bouza winery in Montevideo in his article on 30 great South American red blends, too.

His tasting note praised the wine’s ‘top notes of violet, sweet spices and cut grass [with a] palate of cassis, plum, strawberry [and] nuanced tannins’.

You’ll also find the grape variety in some other parts of the wine world.

This Shelton Vineyards Tannat from Carolina in the US stood out for its ‘density, expressive black cherry fruit, a touch of oak and herbaceous notes all captivated by chewy tannins and wrapped in a balanced, persistent finish’, noted Stacy Slinkard.

See tasting notes and scores for 15 top Tannat wines

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The post What do Tannat wines taste like? appeared first on Decanter.

Georgia prides itself on being the birthplace of wine, with archaeological evidence showing traces of winemaking in traditional earthenware dating back to 8,000 years ago.

In 2013, Unesco recorded the ‘Ancient Georgian traditional Qvevri wine-making method’ on the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.

These traditional, oval-shaped clay vessels of varied sizes are still widely used in Georgian wineries today for fermentation, ageing and storage, while also gaining popularity among curious international winemakers.

Why use qvevris for winemaking?

‘Ქვევრი’ is the Georgian word for qvevri (or kvevri). The prefix ‘kve’ means ‘beneath’ or ‘under’, implying the usual way these vessels are used in Georgian cellars. Locals would say that the fact they are buried and used to make and store wine sets them apart from common amphorae, which are more often used for transport and tend to have handles.

These handmade terracotta vessels commonly take on a large-bellied oval shape with a slightly pointy base. Found throughout Georgia, especially in primary winemaking regions such as Kakheti and Kartli in the east and Imereti in the central west, they are essentially inert (although discussions continue regarding the effect of the minerals in them), so don’t impart flavour or tannin to the wine.

Qvevris being placed at Koncho & Co. Credit: Sylvia Wu

These heavy-duty clay jars are hard to produce and transport and more fragile and difficult to clean compared to modern inert vats – but why are they still used and even gaining in popularity?

The shape is the first hint. Grape musts can move around more freely inside these smooth, egg-shaped vessels, as opposed to cylindrical vats, thus encouraging the extraction of flavours and structure, explains Valeriani (Vako) Gamtkitsulashvili of Twins Wine House.

What makes these traditional clay vessels more remarkable is the fact that as they are buried, stable ground temperatures help the wine inside to naturally maintain a certain temperature range during fermentation – a solution developed in the days when modern winemaking technology was non-existent.

It is, however, down to Georgia’s traditional wine production technique, that shapes these pristine, exceptionally structured and richly-flavoured wines.

How does it work?

Ripe, healthy fruit and ripe stems (if used) are the prerequisites to a successful qvevri wine, says Nugzar Ksovreli of Koncho & Co.

Once the whole bunches are pressed, the juice and some ‘chacha’ (the grape skins, ripe stems and pips) are fed into the qvevris, waiting for natural yeast to trigger fermentation after two to three days.

At Mildiani Family Winery, workers stir the lees with a long stick four times per day, for five minutes each time to ensure there’s enough oxygen for the yeast and to encourage phenolic extraction.

The ‘chacha’ (grape must) sinks to the bottom of the qvevri at the end of fermentation, with clear juice floating to the top (Qvevri and Qvevri Wine Museum at Twins Wine House). Credit: Sylvia Wu

It can take two to four weeks for alcoholic fermentation to complete, with malolactic fermentation kicking in almost immediately afterwards.

At this stage, producers in Kakheti may choose to remove the solids from red wines but leave them in whites for a bit longer, before topping up their qvevris and sealing them.

Producers would usually apply a clay or silicon layer coiled around the ‘mouth’ of the qvevri, then press down a glass disk or stone lid to seal the opening.

The qvevri room in Koncho & Co. The openings of the qvevris are a few centimetres above the ground to prevent wastewater from flowing in by accident. Credit: Sylvia Wu

Traditionally, these qvevris should not be opened until the next spring, but modern-day winemakers may want to check on the health of the wine occasionally via specially designed lids – though they have to be careful to prevent excessive exposure to oxygen.

As the weather warms up in spring, some producers start bottling their wines for younger styles and cash flow, while others pump out the clear wine to clean qvevris for further ageing.

Heavy oxygen intake (such as due to leakage or frequently opening the seal) can be harmful at the final stage of production. However, micro-oxygenation may help to smooth out the harsh tannins intrinsic to the style, says winemaker and consultant Giorgi Dakishvili, who prefers used oak barrels to give his wines a final polish.

The best size qvevri for winemaking

The size of the qvevri matters, explains Dakishvili. Bigger qvevris tend to accumulate higher temperatures (roughly 28-30°C in the case of 2000L qvevris) during fermentation and smaller qvevris tend to work better in diffusing heat (22-24°C for 200L qvevris).

Winemaker and consultant Giorgi Dakishvili hosting a tasting at Mildiani Family Winery. Credit: Sylvia Wu

Higher temperature is beneficial to extract ‘more structure, tannin and phenolics’ while lower fermentation temperature is beneficial for extracting fresh fruits, says the winemaker, who blends wines made from large and small qvevris for his red wines, though he believes that a 2000L vessel is the ‘best size’ for producing qvevri wine.

The thickness of the qvevri walls is another factor to consider when it comes to controlling temperature, says Misha Dolidze, founder of Marani Casreli (Marani means ‘wine cellar’).

Koncho & Co applies an additional cooling system underground for the qvevris, in an effort to help fine-tune the temperature, says Ksovreli.

The making of a qvevri

From merely a few litres to nearly 10,000, the size of the qvevri is tailored towards the demand of wine producers. Therefore, in regions with lower winemaking capacity, such as Imereti, the qvevris made locally tend to be smaller.

Each qvevri maker has their own preference for material and production style. Zaza Kbilashvili of Meqvevre Kbilashvilis Marani in Kakheti, for instance, sources his raw materials from the foothills of the Caucasas Mountains.

Zaza Kbilashvili of Meqvevre Kbilashvilis Marani in Kakheti. Credit: Sylvia Wu

By mixing with water and grinding, the potter prepares the clay to the right texture and makes it into rolls (logs). Starting from the bottom, rolls of clay form the wall of the qvevri, layer upon layer, added by hand. Each layer needs a few days to dry before a new layer can be added, which means the building process alone can take up to two months to complete.

Without precise measurements to follow, the final look of each qvevri is shaped solely by the potter’s eyes and hands, backed up by knowledge and experience passed down through generations.

Making the base of the qvevri. Credit: Sylvia Wu

Once the qvevri has taken shape, it needs a further 40 days to dry completely. Arid weather is ideal for these giant terracotta vessels to firm up.

Now it’s time to light the flame. The fully dried qvevris are carefully lined up in the kiln, which is then sealed up with bricks to retain heat. Usually, only an observation window at the top and a small gap at the bottom are left open, allowing firewood to be constantly fed in, taking the temperature above 1,200°C.

It takes seven sleepless days for the firing process to complete. When these freshly-made qvevris are finally rolled out from the kiln, if the job has been properly done, they display a bright orange colour.

Iron wire, in addition to a cement and lime layer, can also be affixed to the exterior of a qvevri as a ‘safety jacket’. Credit: Sylvia Wu

While the qvevris are still warm, beeswax is applied to the inner surface as an antiseptic, also to smooth out invisible cracks thus preventing leaks. Iron wire, in addition to a cement and lime layer, can also be affixed to the exterior as a ‘safety jacket’, providing some protection during transport and against earthquakes, which are not uncommon at the foot of the Caucasas Mountains.

The life of a qvevri

Although qvevris were once widely produced in Georgia, nowadays merely a few skilled potters still master the production technique. In the case of the Kbilashvili workshop, the waiting time for producers to get their hands on brand new qvevris is as long as a year.

Some of the increasing demand is met by secondhand qvevri dealers. In fact, some producers prefer ‘tested’ qvevris to the ‘mint-condition’ ones, such as at Tbilvino winery.

The producers’ concerns come with a reason. Leakage is a real risk – if the clay wasn’t properly mixed or if the building and baking process wasn’t up to standard, says Misha Dolidze of Marani Casreli. Therefore testing the condition of the qvevri is crucial before it’s filled with wine.

Hygiene, on the other hand, is key to producing wines to modern standards when using this ancient technique.

Misha Dolidze, founder of Marani Casreli. Credit: Sylvia Wu

As Andrew Jefford puts it: ‘Every qvevri is, potentially, a microbiological jungle, a sensorial car crash, a celebration of hideousness – unless the vessel itself has been scrupulously prepared, unless the harvest has been carefully sorted and cleaned, unless the vinification practices have been honed and refined.’

To give the inside of these enormous clay vessels a thorough clean, the usual practice is for a worker to climb inside with a ladder and do some serious scrubbing, says Vladimer Kublashvili, chief winemaker at Khareba Winery, adding that a special brush is used to ensure there is no damage to the clay.

The team at Marani Casreli takes a more meticulous approach, applying high-pressure water guns and acids, followed by a test of the hygiene conditions, according to Dolidze.

So long as there are no major earthquakes, if maintained with care and under appropriate temperatures, one qvevri can last ‘decades’, says Kublashvili.

Flavour profiles

Valeriani (Vako) Gamtkitsulashvili of Twins Wine House. Credit: Sylvia Wu

Classic qvevri orange or amber wines from the main producing region Kakheti are commonly made using local varieties such as Rkatsiteli, Kisi, Khikhvi and Mtsvane.

The top examples typically bear a yellow fruit-driven nose of quince, candied orange peel and dried apricot, sometimes with a hint of blossom and minty herbs. Due to extended skin contact, these wines tend to take on a full-on, structured body but do not lack freshness. The chewy, tea-like tannin structure is wrapped with layers of dried yellow fruits, confected citrus and sometimes spices, followed by a lingering finish.

With the majority produced using Saperavi, the qvevri reds typically display pure, dark fruit aromas, refined by dried flowers and spices that are true to the variety. The palate is structured, with savoury spices and sometimes a mineral edge.

Traditional tools used to take wine out of a qvevri. Picture taken at Khareba Winery’s ‘Kvareli Wine Cave’, a 7.7km tunnel cellar carved into the Caucasus rock massif. Credit: Sylvia Wu

Generally speaking, finishing in used oak barrels and extended ageing help to polish the rough edges and make the wines more palatable.

With their robust character and distinct mouthfeel, qvevri-crafted orange wines may not seem instantly approachable to the mass market at first encounter – but they are certainly memorable, and worth further exploration.

Now is a perfect time. The popularity of qvevri is ‘at its peak’ at the moment, as Dolidze puts it, while the wine world embraces diversity and more ‘natural’ winemaking.

These pristine, richly woven wines made in the ancient vessels that originated from the birthplace of wine are packed with flavours and sensual surprises. They possess unlimited gastronomic potential, awaiting their unravelling by the true connoisseur.

12 Georgian qvevri wines to try

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Clear skies, crystal-clear rivers and clean air: the 2020 vintage started while the world was in lockdown. Going to work in the vineyards was one of the few permissible activities at the time (lucky vignaioli!).

The most genuine producers confess to having taken extraordinarily good care of their vines during the Covid pandemic like never before. No fairs, no visiting importers, no tastings.

Barbaresco wines from 2020 emerged as graceful with unexpected, sweet tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2020 wines

Tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2020 wines:

The following wines all scores 93 points or above

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A leading figure in Asian wine circles, Lu Yang is the world’s first and only Chinese Master Sommelier. He became global wine director, then wine consultant, for Asian luxury hotel brand Shangri-La Group in 2012. He is the founder of TOP|SOMM Studio, a wine consultancy for the hospitality industry in China, and Grapes & Co Institute, the leading wine education and service firm in China. He also works with non-wine brands, including San Pellegrino and Gaggenau.

Ever since James Hilton’s Lost Horizon was published in 1933, the name Shangri-La has become something of a legend. But despite the name of Shangri-La being so well known, few are familiar with it as a wine region – even the most dedicated sommeliers won’t be able to tell you much. Let’s hope that changes, because, for me, Shangri-La – in the northwest corner of Yunnan province in China’s southwest, sandwiched between Sichuan and Tibet province – has the potential to be one of the most exciting, high- quality wine regions in the world.

The reds are typically very intense, ripe and flavourful yet fresh with vibrant berry fruit, and distinctive graphite notes – vigorous yet polished wines of powerful structure, destined to age.

The terroir here is unique. The latitude is only 27°N, on a par with southern Morocco, giving a sub-tropical climate down in the valley. However, most vineyards are planted on the mountain ranges above 2,000m (some close to 3,000m). This means the UV light is very high, giving the wine intense colour and helping the tannins to ripen and soften. The high altitude also leads to a huge diurnal range, sometimes more than 15°C between day and night, giving the wines a marked freshness.

The mountains also provide shade, with 30% less sunshine than normal reaching the vines. But this is offset by the long growing season, stretching to 160 days between flowering and harvest. This not only guarantees sugar ripeness (alcohols above 15% are easily achieved), but more importantly pushes physiological ripeness to a whole new level, all without the sacrifice of freshness.

Challenges remain, including labour costs, logistical issues, language barriers, not to mention differences in local culture and religion… but this also means that Shangri-La can only aim for limited, and high-quality production.

While most current planting is of red varieties, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, we have only reached the tip of the iceberg in terms of the region’s versatility and potential. With planting at different altitudes, exposures, soil types and so on, the possibilities are almost infinite. Syrah and Cabernet Franc are a given. Chardonnay can perform well at higher altitude. Why not Pinot Noir and Riesling? Watch this space.

Lu’s top-pick producers in Shangri-La

Ao Yun

This ambitious project by LVMH aims to put China on the fine wine map. Since its inaugural 2013 vintage, Ao Yun (2018, £255-£343 Berry Bros & Rudd, Brunswick, Hedonism) has succeeded beyond expectations. Winemaker Maxence Dulou crafts a structured, muscular style based on Cabernet Sauvignon to showcase the power and ageability of Shangri-La. Ao Yun also made three village-designated wines in 2018, and has made a Chardonnay since 2016.

Muxin

This wine label created a buzz with its first release last autumn. Owner-winemaker Mu Chao trained in Burgundy and sharpened his claws by working vintages at Clos de Tart, JL Chave in the northern Rhône, Clos des Fées in Roussillon, and Vérité in Sonoma. It’s safe to say he’s not only technically solid, but also aesthetically sound and globally visioned. He makes an elegant, sensual Cabernet- based red, as well as a textural and mineral-driven Chardonnay in minuscule quantities. facebook. com/chao.mu.52

Xiao Pu

Created by Ian Dai, who sources grapes from different regions across China and makes low-intervention wines, including orange wine and pét-nat. He produces a couple of labels from Shangri-La, which are not as serious as Ao Yun or Muxin, but have a fun and post-modern vibe, and sell at a much lower price.

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Looking for inspiration? Here are the best things to read, watch and listen to for wine lovers. We’ve picked out some of the top wine-related books, TV shows and podcasts for your enjoyment!

Books:

Message in the Bottle

From Tim Gaiser MS, former director of education of the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas, this Guide to Tasting Wine compiles strategies and insights gained over more than 30 years of teaching. While many sections are aimed at helping sommeliers pass the tough MS exam, there are useful tools for wine novices through to those wanting to brush up on blind tasting skills. It’s an academic textbook, but Gaiser injects friendly tips and anecdotes.

Available through Amazon UK

New British Wine

Written by Abbie Moulton, with engaging photography by Maria Bell, New British Wine offers a fresh take on the UK’s wine scene. Focusing on organic, natural and low- intervention wines, it introduces the boutique vineyards, sustainability champions, urban wineries, cutting-edge restaurants and new-wave bottle shops that are driving this creative young industry. Cleverly curated, it’s a vibrant snapshot.

Available through Amazon UK

The Bordeaux Club

Written by historian Neil McKendrick, this is the true story of a group of male friends – including wine writers Hugh Johnson, Steven Spurrier and Michael Broadbent, and Neil himself – united by their love of claret. Founded in 1949 and active until 2019, The Bordeaux Club met to drink, dine and discuss fine wines. This book profiles its leading members, with meeting minutes, and tasting notes including Latour 1865, Petrus 1920 and Lafite 1945.

Decanter readers can get £5 off a copy from Académie du Vin Library using the code: Decanter23

Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine 2023

First published 46 years ago, this compact annual guide is packed with information and recommendations of top names from every wine region. Its quick-reference vintage charts are always a useful resource for collectors. This year, Johnson also highlights new-wave bottles from non-classic regions, showcasing native grape varieties and unconventional winemaking methods.

Available through Amazon UK

TV and film:

@TheMillennialSomm

Based in Washington DC, Isis Daniel is The Millennial Somm. Falling in love with wine while working in hospitality, she now uses social media to introduce a new generation of drinkers to the subject and is a powerful voice for diversity in the wine trade. With almost 150,000 TikTok followers, Daniel broadcasts live #TastingThursday (sing it) videos and snappy shorts packed with a range of basic wine education. TikTok, Instagram, Patreon.

Tellement Soif

This subscription-based web TV channel publishes engaging daily videos in French about wine, beer and spirits, from book and wine shop reviews to interviews and vineyard visits, deep dives into wine regions, and discussions on industry issues. Editor-in-chief Antoine Gerbelle, previously a journalist for La Revue du Vin de France, has a keen palate and laid-back but respectful style. Highly accessible, relevant and eye-opening.

The Wild Side of Wine: Lebanon

As a follow-up to his three-part documentary series about making wine in Georgia, Decanter contributor Peter Richards MW takes another walk on The Wild Side of Wine – this time in Lebanon. Filmed on location, Richards visits wineries such as Chateau Musar and uncovers the long history of winemaking in this eastern Mediterranean country, from the Phoenicians up to the modern day, exploring how wine is helping to heal the scars of war.

Sommvivant

Napa-based sommelier Amanda McCrossin is also known as sommvivant, with more than 8,000 subscribers on YouTube and 172,000 followers on TikTok. Her knowledgeable and fun-to-watch videos cover a variety of topics from California Pinot and Australian Cabernet to sweet wines and Champagne, as well as travel guides and food matching. Tune in for $15 Fridays to pick up value recommendations plus tips on pairing food and wine on a budget. tiktok.com/@somm_vivant

Podcasts:

The Grape Nation

Veteran broadcaster Sam Benrubi’s informative weekly podcast features winemakers, sommeliers, writers, retailers and more. With his easy interview style, Benrubi is equally at home talking to big names like Jancis Robinson MW and Eric Asimov, or local heroes such as the engaging Kilolo Strobert, owner of Brooklyn’s Fermented Grapes wine store. Recent episodes include a review of Bordeaux 2020. Apple, Heritage Radio Network, Simplecast.

Drinking Well

As wine merchant Berry Bros & Rudd marks its 325th anniversary this year, it will broadcast a special edition of its Drinking Well podcast on 29 March, discussing the BBR family reserves. You can also catch up with seasons 1 and 2, which feature tips for collectors – including when to drink certain vintages and how allocations work – plus buyers sharing their love of particular regions. Season 3 will be out this summer. Amazon Music, Apple, Audible, Food FM, Spotify.

Guildsomm

GuildSomm’s podcasts are pitched at wine service professionals – with an emphasis on tastings with top sommeliers – but they are available for anyone to listen to. Broad-ranging content includes topics from blind tasting and food pairing to vineyard management and regional focuses. There are also Spanish language episodes, such as ‘Rioja with Alberto Gil’. Available on Apple, Spotify.

In Vino Veritas

In each episode of this new podcast from Jamie Theakston and Alexander Armstrong the duo recommend a wine and match it with music, while sharing wine facts and chatting about their wine passions, food and travel. Episodes often focus on specific wine regions, from Margaret River to Piedmont, with pairings including Barbaresco with Vivaldi’s Gloria in D Major and Pfalz Riesling with the album Where is Home/Hae ke Kae by South African cellist Abel Selaocoe.

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Five classics for red wine with steak

• • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Malbec
  • Grenache / Shiraz blends
  • Syrah / Shiraz
  • Sangiovese

An evening with a succulent, juicy steak and a delicious bottle of wine is one of life’s great pleasures, at least for meat lovers.

It’s always fun to experiment when it comes to wine and food pairing but here are some go-to styles and things to consider if you’re preparing a special steak dinner.

Red wine with steak

Malbec red wines have become a classic match with steak, largely thanks to the Argentina-led reincarnation of this grape variety on the global wine stage plus also the country’s reputation for high quality beef.

Malbec’s lush dark fruit and natural tannin are considered to match-up well with a good steak in general, but some experts suggest searching for fresher styles.

‘I tend to choose a ‘new wave’ Malbec, one with less oak, fresher fruit and better acidity,’ said South American wine expert and journalist Patricio Tapia, when regional chair for Argentina at the Decanter World Wine Awards.

‘Especially ones coming from places like Altamira and Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, towards the Andes Mountains.’ he added. ‘Always keep in mind that the main task for a glass of wine is to refresh the food.’

Cabernet Sauvignon wines, with their blend of dark fruits, tannin and naturally high acidity, are another classic choice if you’re looking to pour a full-bodied red.

‘A powerful California Cabernet Sauvignon with a grilled steak is pretty hard to beat,’ said wine expert Karen MacNeil in her 10 rules to food and wine pairing.

More options for red wine with steak

‘I’d urge people to look beyond the traditional matches of Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon with steak,’ Peter Richards MW told Decanter.

‘How about a nice lively Cabernet Franc? Or may even a Carignan, Cinsault or cool-climate Syrah? Even a full-bodied but elegant rosé can work well on a warm day,’ said Richards, who is DWWA regional chair for Chile.

He said he enjoyed red wines that have body and texture but that could also refresh the palate during a steak dinner. ‘The risk with steak is to think big meaty flavours equals big wine.’

Does Pinot Noir go with steak? 

Most Pinot Noir wines tend to sit at the light to medium-bodied end of the spectrum, and its profile is often therefore paired-up with lighter meats.

Yet Pinot Noir’s natural acidity and bright, red berry fruit can work with your steak dinner, depending on the style and the cut.

In general, think about trying this with leaner cuts, such as fillet, cooked rare to medium-rare.

‘I don’t normally think of Pinot Noir as a match for steak, but the best pairing by far, when the meat was cooked rare, was a classically silky, seductive Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 2001,’ wrote food and wine expert Fiona Becket after tasting several fine wines with steak for Decanter magazine back in 2007.

How to cut it: Do you want a wine with ribeye steak or fillet?

‘The easiest way to pair wine with beef is to think about matching the flavour intensity of your wine with your beef,’ said Mark Quick, wine director for Hawksmoor steakhouse restaurants, in this in-depth article on pairing wine with beef.

Consider the fat content in your meat, for example. ‘More fat equals more intense beefy flavour,’ said Quick, speaking to Decanter in December 2020.

In her 2007 article on pairing different cuts, Beckett said a ribeye steak with relatively high fat content worked well with a Côte-Rôtie from the Syrah stronghold of the Northern Rhône, and also a SuperTuscan – ‘both generous, ripe and full-bodied.’

She also recommended riper, more fruit-driven styles of red for steak cooked well-done.

Sauce matters

‘Sauces and sides will also be just as important when it comes to the choice of wine,’said Richards. ‘Creamy sauces like béarnaise can go well with an oakier wine. Syrah can work well with peppercorns.’

White wine with steak

Why not ignore the raised eyebrows and forget the long-established mantra that a steak dinner is no place for white wine?

Discovery is, after all, one of the most exciting things about the wine world. In an article from our archive, Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, talks about possibilities for pairing white wine with steak and other red meat.

Options range from a mature white Rioja to thinking about how to subtly adapt the meal to suit other styles, such as Pinot Grigio, he wrote.

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After a stretch of warm years from 2014 to 2018, the 2019 vintage was cool and wet in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Many winemakers welcomed a return of conditions more common a decade ago, emblematic of the elegant wines that have buoyed the region’s global reputation.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 30 Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs from the 2019 vintage

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One of my very favourite times to be at Borough Market, on the south side of London Bridge, is first thing on a Saturday morning. That’s when the locals come to do their food shopping, armed with empty shopping bags that will be full to bursting when they finally leave the Market gates. It’s a scene replicated at food markets across the country and around the world: shoppers making the choice to swap the relentless beeps of a supermarket checkout for a trader’s big smile and perhaps a bit of banter, too.

At a (Borough) Market stall you can pick up and squeeze or smell the fruits and vegetables; ask the fishmonger what is best that day; seek the butcher’s advice on the different cuts of meat you can see right there in front of you… They’re the conversations where discoveries are made about seasonality, provenance, production and heritage. All things that matter for sustainability, for preserving food traditions, and simply for their sheer deliciousness.

Those values lie at the heart of Borough Market and also the pages of Borough Market: The Knowledge. Its chapters are like every conversation you might have at a market stall: packed with trader knowledge, skills and tips. There’s everything from filleting a fish, to varieties of honey, fixing Martinis and so much more; plus 80-odd recipes that spring out of the knowledge and the glorious seasonal produce with which the market abounds. Because fundamentally our book – like our Market, and like all good markets – is about finding the joy in food.

Loaf-baked whole cheese with girolles recipe

Camembert is just one of many soft cheeses that would work well for this – I’d be just as happy with a Vacherin Mont d’Or or Epoisses. Whatever cheese you choose nestles within a whole loaf and is then baked for tearing and sharing, its flavours layered up with garlic, mushrooms, honey and wine.

Serves 3-4 as a main or 6 as part of a feast

Preparation time 20 minutes

Cooking time 25 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 round baking cheese such as Camembert (about 250g-300g)
• 1 round sourdough or cob loaf
• 1 garlic clove
• 30g butter
• 25g small girolle mushrooms
• 1⁄2 tsp herbes de Provence
• 2 tsp honey
• 50ml white wine or vermouth

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C.
2. Cut the top rind off the cheese. Then cut the top off the loaf and pull out enough of the crumb inside that the cheese can sit comfortably in the loaf.
3. Peel the garlic and cut into slivers. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a low-medium heat. Cook the mushrooms until just softening, then add the garlic slivers and stir in the herbes de Provence. Take off the heat and stir in the honey and the wine. Mix well and season lightly.
4. Sit the loaf on a large piece of foil on a baking tray. Spoon the mushroom mix over the top of the cheese, then spoon the rest of the juices over, allowing some to go over the outside of the bread too. Push at the garlic pieces so they sink into the cheese a little. Wrap loosely in the foil and bake for 20 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 190°C, open the parcel up just enough to reveal the cheese, and return to the oven for another five minutes to finish off.
5. Cut or tear the loaf into wedges and serve while the cheese is still meltingly hot.

Angela Clutton is a cook, presenter and awarded food writer. Her first book The Vinegar Cupboard (Bloomsbury Absolute, 2019) won several awards, including ‘Debut Cookery Book’ at the Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards 2020. Angela has written for a range of national publications, and broadcasting includes the Channel 5 Inside… series. She presents Borough Market’s Borough Talks podcast series, and is host of the Borough Market Cookbook Club (boroughmarket.org.uk).

Borough Market: The Knowledge by Angela Clutton was published in October 2022 and is available through Amazon UK

The wines to drink with loaf-baked whole cheese with girolles

There will definitely be two views on what to drink with this dish – the white wine with cheese camp, and those who always prefer a red. The fact that the dish has white wine in it might incline you toward the former, and given that the dish contains honey it will have an added touch of sweetness, so I’m tempted by the idea of a Vouvray or Montlouis from the Loire, or an old-vine South African Chenin Blanc. A Chablis with a bit of bottle age would work pretty well, too.

The mushrooms would go with either white or red, but might incline you towards a Pinot Noir; nothing too rarefied, I’d suggest – this is a hearty dish. Maybe something from the Auvergne rather than Burgundy, although I can imagine it being pretty delicious with an Oregon Pinot Noir. The other option would be a cru Beaujolais, maybe from the warmer 2020 vintage than the cooler, lighter, 2021 – and a Côte de Brouilly or Juliénas rather than a Fleurie. Think the rustic rather than the floral side of Beaujolais.

By Fiona Beckett

Wines selected by our Decanter experts

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Austerity is not all the same: Nebbiolo is more austere than Pinot Noir and Sangiovese; Barolo is more austere than Barbaresco; the stern texture of Monforte and Serralunga is different from that of the village of Barolo, which itself is different from La Morra.

Austerity aside, Barolo Riserva are also less ready to drink, mostly due to their traditionally higher extraction. However, if there is a specific justification for the more austere character of a wine, it can be found in the vintage – and 2017 was that kind of vintage.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2017 Riserva wines

View all 26 Barolo 2017 Riserva from Aldo’s vintage report

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

The 2017 vintage

Top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2017 wines

The wines below all scored 96 points or above 

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Sheep in the vineyard, no tillage and reduced pesticides were just a few of the solutions for vineyards to mitigate climate change that were recommended at the recent ‘Ahead of the Curve’ seminar hosted by the Napa Valley Grapegrowers. Given that the UN Climate Report 2023, released on 20th March, urges swift action to prevent the planet from surpassing the 1.5C degrees threshold of catastrophic warming, the seminar couldn‘t have come at a better time.

‘We‘ve been offering the “Ahead of the Curve” seminar to our growers since 2007,’ said Sonya DeLuca, interim executive director of the Napa Valley Grapegrowers. ‘This is the second year in a row that we have focused on sustainability and climate efforts, because it is so critical to our future now,’ she added.

DeLuca referenced the extreme wildfires, droughts and atmospheric jet streams that have afflicted Napa Valley over the past five years. Given that Napa Valley currently has 17,000 hectares under vine and 1,500 grape growers, education on this topic is critical. Yet the majority of the solutions offered by the five experts who spoke during the day-long seminar at Charles Krug Winery can be applied to any global vineyard.

Sheep grazing in the vineyards at Artesa

A variety of vineyard solutions

Over the course of the day the discussion centered on solutions for vineyards to mitigate climate change, which can be distilled into seven major topics:

1) Reduce the use of non-organic pesticides, fertilisers and erosion: Dr Ayana Elizabeth Johnson, marine geologist and co-founder of Urban Ocean Lab, described how the warming ocean temperatures are contributing to warm temperatures and heavier rains, and the role that vineyards play in this.

‘So what is the connection between Napa Valley vineyards and the ocean?’ she asked. ‘You are upstream of the ocean so everything you do impacts the ocean. Non-organic pesticides, fertilizers, and erosion goes into rivers and eventually to the ocean. This can cause algae blooms and other disruptive issues.’

She urged growers to adopt more organic practices in the vineyard, including efforts to control erosion. Many Napa Valley vineyards are already certified sustainable under the Napa Green, Fish Friendly Farming and California Sustainable Wine-growing certifications. However, fewer have applied for organic certification. Though many are using organic practices.

2) Adopt alternative forms of energy for vineyard use: Johnson also recommended that vineyard owners investigate and invest in electric vehicles. As well as solar, wind and geothermal power to operate equipment, irrigation, and other energy needs required by vineyards. ‘Climate is a challenge that has hundreds of solutions,’ she said.

3) Consider new grape varieties and cooler vineyard locations: Since regions like Bordeaux have already adopted new grape varieties to better handle climate change, Johnson urged Napa Valley to do the same. ‘I recommend that you consider different varietals that can handle climate change, as well as consider buying vineyards further north.’

Though the first solution is easier to implement, not all vineyard owners may be interested in leaving Napa Valley to find vineyards farther north. However, many of the larger Napa wineries have invested in cooler regions, including Mendocino County or the West Sonoma Coast.

4) Don‘t forget the diversity & equity side of climate change: Johnson spoke passionately about the need for vineyard owners to consider the impact of climate change on workers. ‘Climate change is impacting farmworker housing and communities,’ she said. ‘Most of the workers have to live in low-lying areas where their houses are flooding. Also, they have to drive further because they can‘t afford to live in Napa Valley.’

She recommended that vineyards consider hiring workers year-round and putting them on a salary. Getting buses or other methods to help workers get to work was another solution to assist in reducing carbon emissions.

Victor Moreno, an audience member with a vineyard management company, reflected the importance of Johnson’s comments. Renteria is the second largest vineyard management firm in Napa Valley with 80 full-time employees and 400 seasonal workers.

‘We can‘t find enough workers,’ said Moreno, ‘and some of them have to commute as far as Yuba City (two hours from Napa) every day. Plus wages are going up, so we are looking for more ways to automate. We have just purchased ten self-driving tractors.’

5) Irrigation sensors, misters, sunshades and row orientation: Moreno and his colleague, Nicolas Mar, a vineyard development coordinator, also reported that efforts to protect the grapes from harsh sun and drought have become more important in the past few years.

‘We‘ve been installing misters and irrigation sensors to deal with the drought,’ said Mar. ‘And some sunshades to protect the vines. Also, row orientation is very important now for new vineyards.’ While in the past this wasn‘t a big consideration, but now making sure the grape clusters don‘t face west towards the hot afternoon sun is essential.

6) Adopt methods to store CO2 in the soil (carbon sequestration): Vanessa Suarez, Senior Policy Advisor with Carbon180.org, an organisation that works with policymakers, scientists and business owners to design policy focused on carbon removal and sequestration, provided some very clear strategies.

‘Even if we stopped emitting CO2 tomorrow,’ she warned. ‘There is still a 50% chance we will hit the 1.5C degree threshold. Therefore, the solution is not only to reduce CO2 emissions, but to also remove it from the atmosphere. We don‘t just need to hit net zero emissions; we need to hit net negative. Therefore, we can capitalize on agricultural soil carbon storage.’

Suarez described the major methods that vineyards could use for carbon sequestration:

• Leave the soil alone by reducing or eliminating tillage

• Keep the soil covered by using cover crops or growing other vegetables between the vine rows (a practice that was quite common before the 1900s)

• Add healthy materials to the soil such as compost

• Maintain the living roots by planting perennial crops and don‘t till the roots up

• Promote biodiversity in the soil by bringing sheep, goats, chickens and other beneficial animals to the vineyard. Also plant trees along the side of the vineyards to provide wind protection and reduce erosion

7) Communicate the story of your climate change efforts: Jamie Goode, author and wine expert with the Wine Anorak global wine journal, addressed the audience from London via Zoom. Goode encouraged vineyard and winery owners to tell a clear personal story to consumers about the efforts Napa Valley is making to address climate change. This is important because some consumers are skeptical about ‘green-washing,’ and would prefer to hear individual stories on issues and progress made.

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The post Napa Valley Grapegrowers seeks strategies for climate resilience at ‘Ahead of the Curve’ seminar appeared first on Decanter.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2019 wines

The 2019 vintage

The adjective ‘classic’ can only partly be intended, as it is in Bordeaux, to indicate wines that are less concentrated. Here in Barolo, ‘classic’ refers to traditional, old-fashioned or even old-school styles – a ‘classic’ vintage is more austere than supple.

Barolo 2019: Top-scoring wines

The following 25 wines all scored 96 points or above

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

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The post Barolo 2019: vintage report & 139 recommendations appeared first on Decanter.

Wine with lamb at a glance

Search our expert reviews to find a great wine

Which wine goes well with lamb?

Many reds from the classic grape varieties are wonderful if you’re looking to pair wine with lamb.

We’ve focused on reds below, but white wines can also work with red meat.

When matching wine with lamb it’s important to pay close attention to the cut of meat you’ve acquired, plus how you are going to cook it and serve it.

Below, we’ve looked at the three most popular ways to cook lamb.

Pinot Noir with young lamb – served pink

Lighter, tender lamb meat demands a wine that will not swamp and overpower the delicate flavours and sublime texture. If you do reach for a full-bodied red, you run the risk of ruining your meat.

A fresher style of Pinot Noir from cooler climate regions can combine lovely red berry fruit balanced by earthy notes, fine tannins and good natural acidity.

Those searching for value in Burgundy could look to lesser-known areas on the up.

They include Rully, where the reds have been stepping out of Chardonnay’s shadow, or Fixin at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, where Charles Curtis MW argues you can still find value. Fresher styles from Givry further south  in the Côte Chalonnaise should also appeal. Some top producers have outposts in these regions.

Beyond Burgundy, you have a wealth of options. This could be a chance to see why German Pinot Noir continues to gain plaudits, or you could look to Oregon in the US.

There are many other Pinot regions to explore, including:

• Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Australia
• Walker Bay in South Africa
• Russian River Valley, Anderson Valley or Santa Barbara County in California
• Willamette Valley in Oregon

Rosé wine with lamb

If you don’t fancy a delicate red, this is your chance to reach for a weighty rosé such as Tavel or Bandol from the south of France.

Don’t believe friends who say rosé wines don’t go with food.

Alternatively, how about upping the tempo with a vintage rosé Champagne? Pink, tender lamb and a top rosé Champagne is something everyone must try once.

Cabernet Sauvignon wine with lamb roast – medium to well done

This is a classic. The meat will be richer in flavour and not quite as tender, so a roast like this can handle a fuller-bodied red wine.

Bordeaux blends are made for roast lamb. The young Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wines of the Bordeaux Left Bank are brimming with cassis fruit, backed by a splattering of spiciness and – in the best versions – well-judged oak.

You could try a vintage likely to be more approachable at a younger age, such as 2011, 2007 or 2006 perhaps. So-called ‘second wines‘ from recent top vintages are also worth a look.

Great vintages like 2000 or 1996 could also make a memorable occasion, if you’re lucky enough to have them.

A wine like this will take the meat to an extra dimension, and the bolder tannin levels in your glass should also make the lamb meat feel more tender.

Good Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends can be found across the globe, too, of course.

The regions to look out for are:

• Hawke’s Bay – New Zealand
• California – USA
• Coonawarra & Margaret River – Australia
• Stellenbosch – South Africa
• Argentina and Chile – South America

If you’re not keen on Cab, go for a good Rioja Reserva with some bottle age, or look towards Syrah/Shiraz.

A Northern Rhône Syrah will enhance your roast lamb. Some wines will offer a touch of pepper spice in the glass that can also work beautifully with the texture of the meat.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Brunello with shoulder of lamb

If you’re slow roasting a shoulder from an older lamb, you’ll be cooking with a lot more fat content on the meat, which holds and seals in the flavour fantastically.

That pronounced gamey flavour to your roast means that we’re looking for a wine with that great balance of tannin, acidity and a little bottle age to draw out the flavours.

Grenache-based with a few years of bottle age would fit the bill.

This is classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape territory in the Southern Rhône, although you could also look to South Australia’s McLaren Vale or some of the great-value Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blends in Languedoc-Roussillon.

If none of these sound appealing, how about Spain’s Ribera del Duero region?

A young-ish Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany can also offer a lovely mix of bright red fruit, acidity, tannin and herbal notes. Rosso di Montalcino is another great option.

A well-balanced Brunello will have the tannin to soften the meat and enough natural acidity to cut through those extra layers of fat. This can be a truly sumptuous match.

Château d’Issan’s head chef Frédéric Braud shares his deceptively simple recipe for seven-hour roasted leg of lamb, plus his pairing suggestions. 

Once you’ve made your choice, don’t forget to think about the serving temperature of your red wine. 

Best wine with lamb: Recent reviews by Decanter experts

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The post Best wine with lamb: Great styles to try appeared first on Decanter.

Pairing wines with Japanese curry

Curry was brought to Japan from the UK in the mid-19th century. Though it started as a military food, in the 20th century curry powder became available in many grocery stores in Japan.

The locals enjoyed curry not only with steamed rice but also with noodles. Gradually, they developed their own methods for preparing these dishes.

In the beginning, they blended curry powder with flour, making a yellowish curry roux, which in most cases wasn’t spicy. Later, the solid blocks of curry roux that we find in shops today were created. The convenience and varied spiciness of these boosted their popularity in ordinary households in Japan and overseas.

The spiciness of the curry roux, the vegetables, seafood or meat used to cook the curry sauce – as well as the choice of toppings – are the key factors to consider when deciding on the perfect wines to pair.

The most common Japanese curry dishes are plain curry roux made from vegetable and pork stocks, seafood curry (curry sauce with seafood chunks inside) and curry
with katsu toppings.

For plain curry, a spicy, fragrant Gewürztraminer is my top choice. Its aromatic, exotic fruits are in good synergy with spicier versions of curry roux too. For seafood curry, the minerality of seafood and the cooking oil (butter or olive oil) match well with a creamy, oaked Burgundian Chardonnay.

If you prefer topping up your curry with crunchy katsu, go for Cabernet Sauvignon-driven reds, especially those from Bordeaux’s Left Bank – well-structured tannin tends to work well with the oiliness of the deep-fried topping, whereas the elegant acidity functions as a palate cleanser.

Credit: Stefen Tan on Unsplash

Soba and udon

Japanese soba and udon are popular noodle dishes, with the umami flavour in the broth or dipping sauce playing a key role in shaping their flavours. Soba noodles are made of buckwheat and are thinner than udon noodles, which are made of wheat. Both varieties can be served hot or cold.

Made using ‘dashi’, the Japanese soup stock extracted from seafood and kombu (dried kelp), the soup and the dipping sauce served with soba and udon usually contain plenty of umami and mineral flavours.

Pinot Noir, especially a classic from Burgundy, is my go-to option for plain soba and udon with no toppings (‘kake’ or ‘mori’). Koshu from Japan could be another good option due to its delicate flavour profile, which matches very well with the umami-rich dashi flavours.

Your toppings of choice can also influence the taste, leading to different pairing options. If you add sweetened fried tofu (‘abura-age’) to make ‘kitsune soba (or udon)’, then the sweetness of abura-age tends to match better with aromatic whites such as Gewürztraminer or Pinot Gris from Alsace, Viognier from the southern Rhône, German Kabinett Riesling or Spanish Albariño.

Mixed tempura (‘kakiage’) is another popular topping for soba and udon. If that is your preference, opt for fino Sherry, which works in perfect harmony with the additional richness and crunchy, nutty flavours of the tempura crust.

You can even choose curry sauce to season your soba or udon – again, aromatic whites would guarantee a good match with its spiciness.

Credit: Masaaki Komori on Unsplash

Ramen

Ramen is thought to have been brought to Japan from China in the middle of the 19th century (the original Chinese name ‘拉麺’ literally means ‘pulled noodles’). However, the soup-infused noodle dish has largely taken influence from Japan and nowadays, almost every region has its own distinctive ramen style.

The flavour of the Ramen broth, therefore, holds the key to the perfect pairings and the four major broths are shio (salt), shoyu (soy sauce), miso (fermented soybean paste)
and tonkotsu (pork bone).

In many cases, dried seafood is used for making the stock for shio ramen. To match well with the saltiness and minerality of the soup, I would go for a crisp Koshu, a nutty fino or an oaked Chardonnay from the Old World, ideally with some lees contact for texture. Consider those from Burgundy, Italy, Spain or Eastern Europe.

With shoyu ramen, the combination of dashi and soy sauce makes the umami flavour sing on your palate – and there is nothing better than choosing an elegant Burgundian Pinot Noir to match.

For miso ramen, my top choices are fino Sherry or again, Burgundian Pinot Noir due to the creamy, yeasty and umami flavours of the miso paste.

The richness and oiliness of tonkotsu ramen would benefit from reds with higher tannin. Therefore a Cabernet blend from the Old World such as those from Bordeaux’s Left Bank, the Languedoc and the rest of Europe should do the trick. Syrah from the Rhône, Tannat from south-west France, Spanish Tempranillo, Italian Nebbiolo or Aglianico are also valid options.

Credit: Mae Mu on Unsplash

Sparkling wines: The all-rounder choice

If you love sparkling wines, then good news – they tend to work with any of the fulfilling rice and noodle dishes mentioned above. The refreshing character of the bubbles helps to moderate any extreme flavours, be it curry spices or oily soup, while refreshing your palate.

You won’t go wrong with Old World offerings such as brut Champagne, Cava, Franciacorta, Prosecco or indeed an English sparkling wine.

Generally speaking, I would always recommend fruit-restrained and mineral Old World wines over fruit-driven wines from the New World to pair with classic Japanese dishes. The delicate Koshu wines from Japan match well with them for the same reason – not only because they share the origin.

Don’t forget to order wine next time and enjoy the harmony between wine and these hearty ‘wa (和)’ style dishes.

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The post Japanese curry & noodles with wine: Pairing advice appeared first on Decanter.

Rioja continues to be one to watch on the fine wine market, even if opinions are mixed on its investment credentials. It is certainly no fine wine newcomer, but has been garnering more attention from collectors and drinkers, according to Georgina Crawley, business development associate director at merchant Goedhuis & Co.

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Complicated weather conditions tested winemakers in the vineyards and cellars in Pessac and Graves in 2020 with a mainly dry and warm growing season saved by crucial rains in August.

The vintage produced structured, supple and generous red wines by producers who picked at the right time and exhibited a light touch in the winery. The best white wines have ripe, exotic fruit touches balanced by freshness and crisp acidity.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2020 in-bottle wines

Average yields for Pessac-Léognan in 2020 were 34.6hl/ha, lowers than 2018 at 36.9hl/ha and 2019 at 47.2hl/ha with a 10-year-average of 40.5hl/ha.

SCORE TABLE: top-scoring 349 wines with 92 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

St-Estèphe 2020 | Margaux 2020 | St-Julien 2020| Pauillac 2020 | Pessac & Graves 2020 | St-Emilion 2020 |  

See all Bordeaux 2020 in-bottle wines in score order

See tasting notes and scores for the top Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2020 in-bottle wines

The following wines all scored 94 points or above. 

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The post Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2020 in bottle: overview plus top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

A strong showing for Margaux in 2020 that battled with difficult growing conditions like much of the Left Bank, with estates battling with climatic extremes and dealing with drought the best they could.

Estates on clay-gravels performed well and those that harvested grapes at full maturity from the middle of September were generally successful.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Margaux 2020 in-bottle wines

Careful extraction was also necessary in 2020, so calm and relaxed vinifications were also key to attaining elegance with no harshness.

SCORE TABLE: top-scoring 349 wines with 92 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

St-Estèphe 2020| St-Julien 2020| Pauillac 2020 | Pessac & Graves 2020 | St-Emilion 2020 | Pomerol 2020 | 

See all Bordeaux 2020 in-bottle wines in score order

See tasting notes and scores for the top Margaux 2020 in-bottle wines

The following wines all scored 93 points or above. 

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The post Margaux 2020 in bottle: overview plus top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

A large number of extremely good quality and exciting wines from St-Emilion in 2020 from estates on water-retaining soils that gave enough nourishment to the vines at critical times. The best are extremely aromatic with floral and ripe fruit scents, richly concentrated and deep cores with silky smooth, well-integrated tannins.

The less successful wines however show austerity, tightness and lean harsh tannins and / or extremely high alcohols with some above 15% and even 15.5% ABV.  Harvesting at the right time and careful extraction were key here in 2020.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top St-Emilion 2020 in-bottle wines

Average yields in St-Emilion in 2002 were 36.7hl/ha, lower than 2018 at 39.7hl/ha and 2019 at 43hl/ha with a 10-year-average of 39.1hl/ha.

SCORE TABLE: top-scoring 349 wines with 92 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Margaux 2020 | St-Julien 2020| Pauillac 2020 | Pessac & Graves 2020 | St-Emilion 2020 | Pomerol 2020 | 

See all Bordeaux 2020 in-bottle wines in score order

See tasting notes and scores for the top St-Emilion 2020 in-bottle wines

The following wines all scored 95 points or above. 

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The post St-Emilion 2020 in bottle: overview plus top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.