The conical volcano mount Pico dominates the remote, 48km-long Azorean island that takes its name. In fact the highest peak in Portugal (2,531m) makes such an imposing backdrop – not to mention the dazzling azure Atlantic Ocean to the fore – that it’s easy to miss one of the Azores’ most ambitious wine tourism projects.

The Azores Wine Company opened its minimalist winery, cellar door, restaurant and hotel in 2021. Discreetly clad in black basalt rock, hewn from the lava-bed of mount Pico, the building is almost subsumed within the gentle folds of the rolling volcanic slopes.

It sits surrounded by a chequerboard network of thousands of small walled vineyards, built to protect vines from wind and sea spray, which are known locally as currais. This intricate and distinctive vineyard landscape was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004.

A sense of place

Credit: Francisco Nogueira

The project was founded by winemaker António Maçanita and Filipe Rocha, former director of the Azores School of Tourism & Hospitality. Like the duo’s revolutionary wines, the hotel and restaurant showcase Pico’s volcanic and oceanic terroir with terrific verve, finesse and impeccable attention to detail.

As functional as it is stylish, the building’s naturally sloping roof draws on the vernacular – specifically the island’s vineyard water tanks. It also serves a similar purpose: harvesting around 1,500,000 litres of water per year that can be used to water the vines.

Wine has been produced in Pico since the 15th century. The currais are peppered with a few surviving adegas –  a type of rustic man cave, where locals would eat and drink with friends, not just make wine.

The adega at Azores Wine Company is built on a different scale however, with five sophisticated studio apartments, a two-bedroom apartment, cellar door and restaurant. Still, intimacy is the goal.

Rest and relaxation

Guests are invited to gather around the fire pit in the inner cloister. They can share plates at the open kitchen’s U-shaped dining counter or indulge in six- or seven-course wine pairing menus at the eye-catching boulder-cleft chef’s table.

Each guest room has an ocean vista and its own terrace. Inside, stylish charred-wood finish carpentry echoes the stark black basalt volcanic landscape. Luxurious Burel blankets dial up the warmth, whilst the extra-large beds promise an ultra-comfortable night’s sleep after a day spent hiking up mount Pico.

Other guest activities on offer include walking the island’s heritage trails and wild swimming. The Azores is also one of the world’s top destinations for whale-watching.

Food and wine

Of course the greatest comfort of all is to be found upstairs in the restaurant, where dynamic young couple chef José Diogo and Inês Vasconcelos, who looks after front of house, deftly draw on their experience at top kitchens in Europe and Asia.

The menu makes good use of the rich bounty of fresh, local produce from the Azores archipelago: from the vineyard to the distant pastures of Faial and São Jorge islands and the glittering ocean between.

Moresish caramelised Rainha do Pico butter is served with local bread. Whilst an exquisite amuse bouche of São Jorge cheese crisp is dressed with nasturtium and bonito and pumpkin flakes. Elegantly sauced or garnished catch of the day might include limpets, amber-jack, snapper or lobster tail.

Share small plates at the counter or sample a cheese platter at the cellar door, while you enjoy a rare opportunity to taste the Azores Wine Company’s range: from the entry level Vulcânico label to its miniscule production flagship cuvées and 10-year-old Licoroso.

Wines from Maçanita’s eclectic Fita Preta label from Alentejo are also on offer, while themed wine pairing menus include an innovative ‘Islands’ head-to-head between Portugal, Spain and Italy.

The restaurant and cellar door are open to the public by appointment. For more information, visit antoniomancita.com.

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January is when we make resolutions for the year, but spring is when new beginnings officially start, and this season has more than enough high-profile wine events to keep you on your toes.

From exclusive new wine clubs offering insider access to winemakers—and winemaking!—to wine-themed air safaris in South America, we’ve curated a list of the most luxurious and exclusive new happenings in the wine world to add to your calendar this spring.

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Decanter’s Dream Destination: Les Sources de Cheverny, Loire, France

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More than 20 years after opening their celebrated Bordeaux spa hotel, Les Sources de Caudalie – set within the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte – owners Alice and Jérôme Tourbier decided it was time for a sequel. But for some, the location might have come as a surprise…

The French hoteliers didn’t head to the lauded domaines of Burgundy, or the hallowed vineyards of Champagne. Instead they went to the forests and wetlands of the Sologne, a comparatively unsung corner of the Loire Valley. But as soon as you visit, you’ll understand the magic the couple saw in the place that would become Les Sources de Cheverny.

The 49-room, village-like property is set across the 18th-century former Château de Breuil and a neighbouring farm estate. It’s immersed in a landscape of grasses, woodlands, wetlands and vineyards. The estate’s 45ha are the vision of rural tranquillity – but with the added benefit of sophisticated indulgences, including Michelin starred food, fine wine and a spa.

Chic design

While many hotels successfully combine old with new, Les Sources de Cheverny really does it with aplomb. Polished parquet floors meet contemporary pastel palettes and elegant dried flower installations. Retro farm buildings mesh with Scandi-style mid-century-modern furniture and leafy motifs.

Even if you don’t post on social media, you will find it hard to resist snapping pics of its eye-catching dimensions, including the lobby’s minimalist leather chairs and abstract tapestry, as well as the small chapel.

Choose between 13 rooms in the historic château – if you don’t mind some quirky layouts and atmospherically creaky floors. Or opt for one of the new wood cottages, scattered around a bird-watching lake, by grasses and orchards. The pinnacle? Le Baron Perché, a stilted suite on the lake itself, complete with a private alfresco hot tub and panoramic views.

Relaxed days

Wine and spa: it’s a match made in heaven. Or at least that’s the thinking at the Les Sources hotels. Like its sister property in Bordeaux, Les Sources de Cheverny works with French grape-based brand Caudalie, so treatments feature antioxidant grape extract oils or exfoliating Cabernet grape seeds.

When you aren’t on the massage table, you can be appreciating the spa facilities, largely based out of the château. They include a 23m window-lined indoor pool space and an outdoor barrel hot tub and pool, a short walk away.

Or simply immerse yourself in the rich wilderness of the Sologne. There are farm animals on site: miniature goats, chickens and horses, plus hives with honeybees. Walking trails weave through forest and by vineyard. Or hop on one of the hotel bikes to cycle the 20 minutes into Cheverny village, home to another historic château, designed for touring.

Food and wine

Despite its intimate nature, Les Sources de Cheverny boasts two dining options: Michelin star restaurant Le Favori, headed by chef Frédéric Calmels, and the more casual Auberge. At the latter you’ll enjoy set menus starring local goat’s cheese or roasted pork loin with cabbage – washed down with a strong local wine selection including local Loire favourites Vouvray, Chinon and Menetou-Salon.

But arguably the most exciting local wine is developing in the nearby vineyards. White cuvée La Grand’Vigne is made in conjunction with Philippe Tessier, and new rows of local variety Romorantin (a sibling of Chardonnay) have been planted for increased future production.

A short drive or cycle will bring you to some other interesting wineries. As well as Tessier’s vines, Cour-Cheverny itself is home to biodynamic Domaine des Huards. Further afield in Vouvray, popular Domaine Huet does a range of fabulous Chenin Blanc wines. Meanwhile, family-owned Domaine de la Chevalerie  in Bourgueil produces lively biodynamic Cabernet Franc. You’re spoiled for choice; so come thirsty.

For more information visit www.sources-cheverny.com

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There’s definitely something about lazing in the lap of luxury that makes savouring an elegant Grenache even more delicious… I’m surrounded by vines that wind up and over hills, watching them catch the glow of a setting sun while nibbling homemade fudge and honey biscuits. It’s a Thing of Beauty – as is my Tscharke Barossa Valley red.

While Shiraz is king in the Barossa Valley, Grenache has always shone in the background – ever since the first settlers brought bush vines from Prussia in the 1830s. The locals like to say: ‘Grenache delivers what Pinot promises.’

My magic moment is one of many I’m enjoying at The Louise, a luxury boutique lodge that makes guests feel comfortable and spoiled. It’s a star in one of Australia’s most famous wine regions.

All around the resort is a rich tapestry of colours and textures – vines that stretch to the horizon past gum-studded pockets of Aussie bushland. To the west, sunsets throw orange and purple into the sky. It’s spectacular from the pool.

Credit: George Apostolidis

Local heroes

The Louise also has impressive neighbours. Just across the road is Tscharke Wines and The Protagonist wine bar, plus Seppeltsfield Road Distillers (for a sneaky G&T).

Torbreck Vintners and David Franz Cellardoor are around the corner. While along palm-lined Seppeltsfield Road, past Two Hands, Izway and Hentley Farm is historic Seppeltsfield.

If it’s a famous Penfolds Grange or Henschke Hill of Grace that has drawn you to the Barossa, they are just minutes away.

A stylish stay

Credit: George Apostolidis

The Louise has had a few facelifts in its time, but nothing as dramatic as its latest transformation. The style is southern European with an earthy touch of Tuscany. Now part of the Baillie Lodges and Luxury Lodges of Australia families, it boasts a calming, understated elegance.

Each of the 15 villa-sized suites here offers a complete escape. They’re helped by three private courtyards, one at the entrance, my happy place facing the vines and an outdoor bathroom.

You’ll notice the attention to detail from the already lit fireplace to a minibar/coffee station stocked with local offerings (included in the price). The Louise also has its own brand of beautiful toiletries – and there’s even a TV in the bathroom.

The staff are impeccable. There’s no ‘falling over you’ – that’s just not Australian. But they will make your stay memorable for all the right reasons.

Food and wine

Credit: George Apostolidis

Dinner in Appellation restaurant is a highlight. Executive chef Asher Blackford features kitchen garden picks in a five-course degustation menu. Dishes can be matched with local wines and are served with stories of the producers.

Kingfish ceviche, tapioca saltbush and kimchi beignet snacks start the delicious journey – with no cutlery, ‘because it forces people to relax and lose the pretence’, says Blackford.

Our first feast includes beetroot-wrapped sheep feta then quail, lamb rump and ricotta with rhubarb and honeycomb.

Wine pairings offer a glimpse of the 40 grape varieties found in the Barossa. Our selection included: O’Leary Walker Hurtle Sparkling Pinot Noir-Chardonnay NV; Yelland & Papps Single Vineyard Roussanne; Cirillo Estate 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache Rosato; Izway Mates Aglianico; and David Franz Sticky Botrytis Semillon.

Exclusive experiences

One of the most impressive things about The Louise is its connections. Want to taste 100-year-old tawny from Seppeltsfield – the only winery in the world with premium fortified wines set aside every year since 1878?

How about a private underground cellar tasting at Tscharke or Yalumba – Australia’s oldest family-owned winery? 

You can take the St Hugo & Riedel Glass Masterclass, eat breakfast with kangaroos or make your own perfume at Vasse Virgin. Or you can be chauffeured around with Barossa Bespoke Tours.

All you have to do is ask Louise…

For more information visit  www.thelouise.com.au

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In the most basic sense, Babylonstoren is a 17th century Cape Dutch farm that has been converted into a hotel, spa and winery. But that simplistic description doesn’t do justice to this special place, set in the beautiful Franschhoek Valley.

Just a 45-minute drive east of Cape Town, billionaire proprietors Koos Bekker and Karen Roos – who also own a UK outpost, The Newt in Somerset – have created a wine lovers’ destination that is far more than the sum of its parts.

There are vast acreages of manicured gardens, farm-to-fork dining with hyper-seasonal produce and a newly opened wine museum. While chic villas let you wake to views of Simonsberg mountain, Babylonstoren is the luxurious paradigm of a Cape Winelands estate. No question: this place will get under your skin.

A rich wine history

The tasting room at sunset

Wine has always been a major part of Babylonstoren’s story. After all, this is the Western Cape, home to esteemed vineyards producing everything from local Pinotage to Bordeaux red blends. The estate has grown grapes since the 1690s.

Today’s winemaking team, headed by Klaas Stoffberg, uses a state-of-the-art winery to turn out a core range of 10 bottlings. They range from peachy Viognier to brioche-noted Méthode Cap Classique Chardonnay. Behind the scenes, Stoffberg experiments with the likes of amphora and cement fermenters to make small batch, limited-release wines for the estate’s wine club members.

Stoffberg is in good company in the region. Babylonstoren’s doorstep is littered with big wine names from Franschhoek and Stellenbosch – many within 15-20 minutes’ drive of the hotel. Head to Delaire Graff Estate to wander its sculpture-studded gardens and sample its bold Cabernet Sauvignon. Visit Spier Wine Farm to savour a tangy Sauvignon-Sémillon. Or what about Black Elephant Vintners for an innovative music and wine pairing?

When you’ve returned to home base at Babylonstoren, enjoy a flight of seven wines, tour the cellar, then explore the newly opened onsite wine museum, The Story of Wine.

On the menu

Despite the impressive nature of its wines, the estate’s 94ha of vineyards are only part of the agricultural picture at Babylonstoren. First-class olive oils and rooibos teas are also produced here, and there are bountiful fruit orchards, vegetable patches, cycads, protea and fynbos. Not to mention hens and cows. In short, the rambling grounds – around 200ha in total – are a veritable horticultural rainbow.

With such rich offerings of produce, it’s only natural that good fresh food features in a Babylonstoren stay. The onsite Babel restaurant, set in a refurbished cow shed, serves up whatever is in season in the garden.

That could be heirloom cucumbers, sweetcorn or peaches. Breakfast features eggs from the hens, while meat from estate-reared Chianina cattle is dry-aged in the salt room before starring in lunches and dinners.

It’s not just about the restaurants, either. Part of what gives Babylonstoren its cache is its comprehensive farm shop. It attracts visitors both local and far-flung for its butchery, handmade dairy products, bakery and ‘lekker’ (sweets) room. Regular cookery or gardening workshops let you produce your own nut butter, blend herbal teas or make pasta, too.

Rest and relax

When you aren’t eating or drinking, there are other kinds of hedonistic pleasures in store for guests: namely an excellent spa. Babylonstoren recently launched a new ‘hot spa’, featuring vitality pools, a hammam and a rasul mud treatment room. This is in addition to its existing regime of bamboo stick massages and anti-ageing facials.

True to its roots, the accommodation at Babylonstoren is set in Cape Dutch-style architecture. But here historic doesn’t mean staid. Owner Roos is the former editor of ELLE Decoration South Africa, so reimagined former farm buildings put style at the forefront.

Classic white-washed exteriors meet floor-to-ceiling glass to let in the light, alongside plush minimalist furnishings. Curl up in front of a roaring fire with a book from the tome-stacked shelf, with a glass of Babylonstoren’s delicate Mouvèdre Rosé in hand, and you’ll feel like all’s right with the world.

For more information visit babylonstoren.com

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An oasis of calm, charm and fine wine awaits at this historic property set on the world-renowned Santa Rita Wine Estate.

Situated at the foot of the Andes Mountains in Alto Jahuel in the Maipo Valley – an area known for producing some of Chile’s best Cabernet Sauvignons – Casa Real occupies a privileged position just 40 minutes southeast of the country’s capital Santiago.

Founded in 1880 by businessman Domingo Fernández Concha, Santa Rita is one of the oldest and longest-standing wineries in Chile.

The estate’s original hacienda, now a luxury boutique hotel, was Domingo’s summerhouse and came adorned with a Neo-Gothic chapel (both of which were designed by German architect Theodor Burchard) as well as 40 hectares of stunning park land (one of the largest and best preserved in central Chile) designed by leading French landscape gardener Guillaume Renner.

Santa Rita’s Chapel

Both the 19-century, Pompeian-style building and the sprawling, luscious green gardens filled with ancient sequoia and palm trees, flowers, herb gardens, boxwood labyrinths, a lagoon, a pair of black-necked swans, exquisite sculptures and Roman baths, were declared National Historic Monuments in 1972.

The estate was bought by Ricardo Claro in 1980 and the manor house 10 years later. The building was classically restored respecting its aristocratic history and keeping a romantic beauty, eventually opening as Hotel Casa Real in the mid 1990s.

Hotel Casa Real dining room

Freshly updated in 2017, guests can choose from one of 16 beautiful and airy en-suite bedrooms, all featuring soaring ceilings, comfy beds and sumptuous furniture. Each offers a beautiful view of the park or inner courtyard. The hotel also offers an outdoor pool, sauna and gym.

Reminiscent of a bygone era, the hotel is adorned with original fittings, antique furniture, oil paintings and textiles filling the entry hall, salons, dining room, billiard room and the inner colonnade.

Peace and tranquility can be found on the terrace overlooking the gardens and also in the private chapel next door which features Norman arches and stained-glass windows as well as beautifully painted walls and vaulted ceiling. It plays host to picture-perfect weddings and concerts throughout the year.

Hotel Casa Real bedroom

The hotel’s restaurant offers both indoor and alfresco dining options using the finest seasonal ingredients, some of which are harvested from the estate itself. In addition, guests also have the option to eat in the renowned Doña Paula restaurant reached via a short walk through the gardens.

The restaurant is located inside the late 18th-century colonial home of Doña Paula Jaraquemada who gave shelter to 120 patriots fighting for the Independence of Chile more than 200 years ago – 120 being the name of the estate’s best-selling, entry-level wine and the bottle cellar.

Choose from gourmet Chilean dishes paired with Santa Rita wines or take high tea on the shaded veranda. Reservations are required: (+562 2 362 2590) or email: restaurant@santarita.cl

Of course the winery visit and tastings, with or without a sunset backdrop, are must-do activities. From classic to ultra-premium – and several in-between (including the option to take a horse drawn carriage around the gardens) – immerse yourself in the world of Santa Rita, learning about the estate’s grape varieties, winemaking and cellaring process as well as visiting the ‘Cellar of the 120 Patriots’. The wines available to taste range by tour from entry-level to the estate’s higher-end bottlings.

Super fans can also become a winemaker for the day with a ‘Winemaker Experience’ in which you’ll design your own signature wine blend, bottle and cork it, then label and varnish it ready to take home.

There is also an on-site shop brimming with local edible and viscous goodies including a wide range of top wines from both Chile and Argentina made by Santa Rita and sister wineries; Carmen, Sur Andino and Doña Paula as well as wine accessories and handmade crafts made by members of the Alto Jahuel community.

With over 130 years of wine production and experience, Santa Rita is one of the pioneers of progressive Chilean viticulture seeking out new and exciting regions from which to grow a variety of grapes while also focusing on single-vineyard plots and expressions of terroir. With vineyards in some of the country’s best wine growing regions, the range of wines continues to expand under the expert hand of top Chilean winemaker Sebastián Labbé and his team.

One of which is the new, innovative and impressive Floresta range comprising; Chardonnay, Field Blend Blanco, Carménère, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Dedication also remains to the production of the estate’s icon wine Casa Real – a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon made only in the best years and of which the 1989 vintage is a Decanter Wine Legend.

Casa Real icon bottling

Be sure to also save time to discover Chile’s fascinating pre-Colombian and post-conquest history in the Andean Museum, set on site and just a few minutes walk from the hotel. Inaugurated in 2006, the museum has an archaeological and ethnographic collection of more than 3,000 pieces from the different cultures that have inhabited the Andean zone, all curated and carefully displayed.

Combining flawless service, generous hospitality and an unrivalled charm and beauty, Hotel Casa Real provides an unforgettable stay.

For more information, visit: www.santarita.com/en/

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When it comes to holidays, you usually have to choose your camp. Sun and beach or lush vineyard landscapes? But Crete blurs the dichotomy. This ray-drenched, breeze-tickled Greek isle, hovering above the north of Africa, has the lot.

Sands lapped by warm blue surf, and hills striped in vines. Lazy lounger days under reliable blue skies and calm nights sipping wine made just down the road. And, a winery with rooms. Boutari’s Scalani Hills, just southeast of the island’s gateway city Heraklion.

In comparison to the Greek Cycladic island of Santorini – which made its name internationally with indigenous variety Assyrtiko – the wines of Crete fly somewhat under the radar. (In fact, Boutari, founded in Naoussa in 1879, has had a Santorini winery since the 1980s.)

But there is serious vinous history on Crete. One of the world’s oldest grape presses, dating to about 1,600BC, was unearthed at Minoan complex Vathypetro – just a 15-minute drive from Scalani Hills.

These days, island producers such as Alexakis, Stilianou and Michalakis are making eclectic wines from white grapes such as Vilana and Thrapsathiri, and red ones like Mandilaria. Among the established names, Boutari blends Greek favourites with well-known international varietals such as Chardonnay and Syrah.

Sleep among the vines

Of all the wineries with plots in the Archanes region near Heraklion, Boutari’s Scalani Hills outpost has an enticing USP. It boasts a clutch of charming, contemporary rooms. Three suites open to prime views over 7ha of knobbly old olive trees and vines.

The two-person suites are named after star local grape varieties: Liatiko, Malvasia and Kotsifali (a particular Archanes specialty). Set in a centuries-old former cottage, they are dressed in soothing neutral decor.

A private terrace is your setting for devouring a breakfast of Cretan favourites (think sticky grape jams and moreish must biscuits). Plus there are as many Boutari wines as you care to drink. That is, if you haven’t already had your fill sipping through flights in the winery’s glass-lined tasting area.

Kotsifali, the two-storey maisonette, has a particularly wow-factor fireplace set under its soaring white wood-panelled ceiling. While cosy Liatiko looks out over a shady pergola. Ideally, you’d come as a crew of six, and take all three suites for the ultimate, private Greek vinous hideaway.

This isn’t a sprawling resort, so you shouldn’t expect loads of amenities. For that, the beachfront hotels of Crete’s north coast have more to offer. Rather, you’re here to bask in the rural tranquillity of it all. Kick back with a book while draining a bottle of easy-drinking, cherried Kotsifali and Mantilaria red. When bellies rumble, tuck into platters of dolmades, nutty Cretan graviera cheese and estate-grown olives.

Out and about

There is sightseeing, too. The ancient ruined Palace of Knossos – the mythical home of the half-man, half-bull Minotaur – is less than 10km away. There are hiking trails up soaring Mount Juktas and the haunting Minoan cemetery at Phourni. Heraklion, the capital of Crete, is there if you fancy seeking out an urban buzz.

But you may just want to hang ultra-local and explore the surrounding Archanes wine region, with its aromatic reds hewn from limey-clay soil. Meanwhile the neighbouring village of Peza, cooled by sea breezes, has high altitudes and delicate white wines ready to discover.

And of course – as we’ve said, thanks to the magic of Crete – the island’s nearest beaches are just 15 minutes away. So after you’ve exhausted tasting options in the surrounding area, you can simply flop on golden sands at a secret cove. And feel smug for getting two holidays in one.

For more information visit scalareaestate.gr

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In the dusty outskirts of pretty Elciego, it rises like a beacon. A tangle of metal and glass, an explosive futuristic figure set among rows of manicured old Tempranillo vines. Marqués de Riscal, the hotel owned by the well-known winery of the same name in Rioja, isn’t just a place to stay. It’s a large-scale art piece.

Not that you’d expect much less from Frank Gehry, the visionary who also designed the nearby Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and Paris’s striking Louis Vuitton Foundation. Arresting deconstructivism is the signature of this starchitect – and even though the hotel opened back in 2006, it still feels electrifying.

Ribbons of colourful Japanese titanium and stainless steel bend and dive as if caught in suspended animation. They dress the front of honey-stoned 19th century buildings in striking high drama. It’s a bold, contemporary statement that’s dished up, in poetic contrast, on the grounds of Rioja’s oldest winery.

Old and new

The Gehry Suite

Established in 1858, with its first wines bottled in 1862, Marqués de Riscal is one of Rioja’s most pivotal names. Founder Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga brought the winemaking traditions of the Médoc to sun-drenched northern Spain. In fact the property still harvests from some of the oldest vines in the region, including pre-phylloxera plantings.

The winery introduced Sauvignon Blanc into the region and was instrumental in the establishment of DO Rueda in 1980.

Today Marqués de Riscal is among Rioja’s most celebrated brands, and provides a comprehensive visitor experience in a ‘city of wine’. It includes the original bodega, El Palomar – the winery for its premium range – and hospitality facilities galore.

Among those facilities is the hotel. Its 61 bedrooms are dressed in crisp whites and the rich ruby hue of young Tempranillo. Leathery sofas, light polished woods and marbled bathrooms join terraces and big windows.

Views are of the surrounding verdant vineyards, undulating hills and, in many cases, the rising honey-stone figure of the historic Church of San Andrés in the distance. In a region that prizes tradition while also pushing for innovation, this old-meets-new stay feels a perfect fit.

Exploring Rioja

The library terrace

There are plenty of wines to taste on site – whether via a winery tour or in the hotel Vinoteca, which pours the label’s own wines alongside slivers of jamón and creamy croquettes. But once you’ve had your fill, more of Rioja’s finest wineries are on your doorstep.

To the northeast by Laguardia, Bodegas Ysios and Bodegas Javier San Pedro Ortega await. In Haro, to the west, one of Rioja’s winery epicentres, you can simply stroll between the likes of Bodegas Muga and Bodegas CVNE.

Prefer to keep it local? The hotel has free bicycles to borrow so you can spin along pathways cutting through the vines and along the Ebro river. Staff will even pack a picnic to take away with you.

Relaxation o’clock

The Riscal Suite terrace

When you’re ready for downtime, Marqués de Riscal delivers. You’ll want to spend yours in the excellent Spa Vinothérapie Caudalie, which puts the antioxidant properties of the grape front and centre. Book in for a skin-softening Crushed Cabernet Scrub or toning Winemaker’s Massage.

Then, shoulders unclenched, make for the open-air terrace of the Restaurant 1860 Tradición for a lazy alfresco meal. Or for a more serious gastronomic affair, choose Restaurant Marqués de Riscal instead. In this Michelin-starred spot you’ll get a multi-course parade of gussied-up local ingredients, including Idiazábal cheese, red prawns and black olives.

And, of course, there’s a riveting wine list to help it all down. Older vintage Marqués de Riscal pours include the likes of Cosecha 1945 and Barón de Chirel Reserva 1994. But you can also choose from dozens of other exciting Riojas, both red and white.

For more information visit marquesderiscal.com

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The year is 911. Charlemagne’s grandson, King Louis ‘The Child’ of East Francia dies aged 17 after an 11-year reign and becomes the last ruler of the East Frankish Carolingian Dynasty.

Elsewhere, in what will become known as the Kingdom of Germany, Schoenberg Castle located on a small hill in the medieval town of Oberwesel, overlooking the meandering banks of the River Rhein, is first mentioned in written sources.

Much has happened since then. Family squabbles and tribal warfare meant the castle frequently changed hands, and has even been burnt down and rebuilt.

Today there may no longer be royalty fighting over its ownership, but a stay in one of the castle’s 27 rooms will make you feel like an aristocrat.

Living like a king

The Sieben Jungfrauen suite. Credit: Volker Linger

The external walls of the castle are made from the same slate that gives the wines of Germany’s Mittelrhein region their distinct minerality and structure. Stepping into the castle and back in time, the hotel is decorated with a firm nod to 15th century interiors. Dark wood panelling, hanging tapestries and leaded glass windows are sympathetically used to create a charming and welcoming pastiche.

The bedrooms, each with their own names such as ‘Pfalzgrafenkemenate’ (kemenate translating to a room with a fireplace or a woman’s private room), are individually furnished but follow the same unifying theme. From cosy, dedicated single-person rooms, to suites with four-poster beds, en suite saunas and private balconies.

Wine time

Hotel Schoenburg at night

Venture outside and it’s clear that wine is, and has always been, at the heart of Oberwesel. It was the wine trade that brought wealth to the region from the 13th to the 15th century, allowing the town wall to be built. That wall still stands largely intact today: visitors can walk along it and see inside the fortified towers.

Riesling reigns here, with around 70% of the region’s vineyards planted with it. So it’s only right to try to understand the local’s love for it. The hotel offers private tours where you are met at the castle doors by a winemaker and whisked away for two hours. Your tour will take in the town, vineyards, views and of course end with a wine tasting. (€65 per person).

If you prefer something a little more lively, then one of the many wine festivals should be part of your schedule. Germany has over 1,000 wine festivals annually and the Mittelrhein is no exception for celebrating all things vinous.

When to visit

Plan your visit to include a trip to the Christmas market or to the springtime Mittelrheinischer Weinfrühling. This 5km route starts in Boppard (13 minutes away from Oberwesel by train) and travels through 16 ‘stations’ celebrating the new vintage release, coinciding with Rhein in Flammen. As the name suggests, the river is lit up by firework displays taking place in five locations along the Rhein with wine festivals happening bankside.

Then there is the most unique event of all, one that only happens in Oberwesel: Weinhexennacht (wine witch night) on 30 April. The event traces its history back to a time when witches’ fires were lit in the vineyards to drive out winter demons. These days a local woman is chosen to represent the town and its wines, with her inauguration consisting of her climbing out of a big wine barrel in the market square.

Food and drink

The hotel restaurant

Even if your trip doesn’t coincide with a festival you can still experience the best of the region by looking out for Haus der besten Schoppen Mittelrhein. These restaurants, inns and taverns have been judged to serve excellent local food and drink.

And of course you can plan your own visits to wineries in the region. Suggestions include Weingut Ratzenberger and Weingut Toni Jost, both members of the VDP Mittelrhein. Or drop into Weingut Albert Lambrich, the family winery of the current wine witch Julia Lambrich.

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The journey to Saffire Freycinet is one that requires commitment. First, you have to make your way to Tasmania – the heart-shaped landmass off Southern Australia – via a two-hour flight from Sydney. Next, you need to drive three hours north from capital Hobart, squiggling along the coast-hugging Tasman Highway.

Then, when you finally reach a peninsula cloaked in a natural park, you must fight to keep your eyes on the road as surrounding hills soar upwards and blue bays rush by. But put in the effort to get to this remote luxurious retreat, and you won’t regret it.

A Signature Suite at Saffire Freycinet

The hotel’s design is remarkable – a silvery, stingray-shaped build, lined in floor-to-ceiling windows, hedged by a row of private villas. Everything here is geared towards that unrelenting view: wild forest, rugged peaks and glittering bay fringed in soft golden sands. Enter the light-flooded contemporary lounge, where a sleek wooden ceiling ripples above and gas fireplaces flicker lowly, and it feels a bit like you’ve wandered into the pages of Architectural Digest.

The villa-like rooms are no less impressive. With just a clutch on offer, the vibe is exclusive – and there is not a single dud. All 20 come dressed in Tasmanian woods and earthy hues. They offer sublime views across sun-soaked foliage to Coles Bay and the pink granite mountain range, The Hazards. The top suites are more spacious than a sizeable London flat. They come with dedicated dining areas and kitchens, as well as private plunge pools.

Dining and drinking

Food is a serious priority here. The hotel operates on an all-inclusive basis with well-stocked minibars, three meals a day and bottomless pours from the impressive wine cellar. Think sparklings from Tasmania’s Pipers River, Roswell and Lebrena regions and Riesling from the Tamar and Coal River Valleys. Not to mention Pinot Noir from across the island.

The menus feature a roll call of native Tasmanian ingredients. From abalone to beef to venison, dishes show off the incredible diversity of the local larder.

Out and about

But don’t get too comfortable. Part of the draw of checking in is the excuse to get out. Stays at Saffire Freycinet include unique ‘experiences’ that plunge you into the local landscape, while giving you a taste of its bounty.

Spend a morning wading through crystal-clear waters on a working oyster farm, harvesting briny bivalves and washing them down with glasses of traditional method Clover Hill fizz. Don an apiarist suit and visit hives to learn about the production of Tasmanian honey.

The resort can also arrange visits to a historic vineyard on Tasmania’s east coast, Craigie Knowe. Here you’ll meet winemaker Glenn Travers and sip a selection of his wines.

If you strike out further – and you should, if you’ve made the effort to come all this way – then Tasmania has more riches to discover beyond its sublime wine and food. Saffire Freycinet, with its bountiful connections, can arrange for you to see endangered Tasmanian devils up close or will helicopter you to Currawong Lakes for fly-fishing.

You can self-drive down to Hobart for the day to visit the city’s fabulous MONA museum of old and new art or sample award-winning Tasmanian whisky. Or take the ferry to Bruny Island to tour Australia’s southernmost vineyard.

Or of course, you can explore the other wineries of the island – highlights include Jansz for impressive sparkling or Tamar Ridge for complex Pinot Noir. Just make sure you’re back in time for dinner; whether it’s sticky quail on the menu or scallops with macadamia, you won’t want to miss executive chef Paddy Prenter’s plates.

And just before you make the epic journey home, you have to climb up the famous nearby lookout point, through lush forest and rounded russet boulders. You’ll emerge into the sunshine to a perfect half-moon curve of white beach and azure water blanketed beneath you. The name of this special place? Wineglass Bay. For an oenophile, there can be no more fitting conclusion to a stay in Tasmania.

For more information visit: saffire-freycinet.com.au

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When COMO Hotels and Resorts opened its first location in continental Europe in 2019, it was a notable departure. For a company known primarily for wellness-focused stays on Indian Ocean shores, a move into the Tuscan countryside – heartland of carbs, cheese and, of course, Chianti – didn’t feel especially on-brand. But COMO has managed to strike just the right balance here, creating a resort that’s feel-good in every sense of the word.

The setting is pure Tuscan idyll. A 12th-century castle overlooks rolling vineyards, sun-drenched olive groves and distant purple hills cradling cobbled ancient towns. Pin-straight cypresses flank a sculpted fountain in the grounds, and pebble-strewn walking trails weave you past crumbling farmhouses and wind-rustled grasses.

The mood is quiet, unhurried, soporific. Geographically Castello Del Nero is a million miles away from COMO’s resorts in the Maldives, Thailand and Turks and Caicos. Yet it’s a paragon for the brand’s trademark focus on wellbeing. Perhaps because when you’re somewhere this beautiful, you just can’t help but feel well.

Designed for relaxation

A Heritage Suite bedroom

The rooms – either in the medieval castle itself or its redesigned outbuildings – subscribe to the signature COMO contemporary, minimalist aesthetic. Don’t expect heavy Italian drapery or dark woods here. Instead cream and slate hues, peachy tiling and fluid furniture create a light, airy mood that allow the original features of the property to shine.

In some cases, those features are remarkable: not just beamed ceilings but frescoes that date back to when the noble Del Nero family used the castle as a personal countryside escape from nearby Florence.

Then of course, there’s the Shambhala spa – no COMO resort comes without one. Mornings begin with complimentary yoga or pilates classes in the window-lined studio, shielded from the suntrap alfresco pool by a hedge of green.

After a soothing herbal tea, you can indulge in the hydrotherapy area, or go straight into a rebalancing COMO Shambhala Massage. A 90-minute evening treatment plus a few glasses of local Chianti practically guarantees you the sleep of your life.

Food and wine

Panzanella salad with green tomatoes

Speaking of wine, despite its wellness creds, COMO isn’t about austerity. Just ask the guests draining bottle after bottle of Sangiovese rosé at lunch on the alfresco terrace… In fact, both wine and food are put front and centre here.

At Michelin-starred restaurant La Torre, chef Giovanni Luca Di Pirro plates up colourful, edible art in a monastic-minimalist dining space. The panzanella salad with raw scampi, edible flowers and sun-ripened tomato is especially memorable.

In the cellars almost directly beneath the restaurant, staff run tutored wine tastings. They can walk you through the nuances of Chianti’s sub-regions (including Barbaerino Tavarnelle, where the hotel is based). You’ll try lesser-known organic producers and, if you’d like, even crack open a bottle of the hotel’s own Chianti. It’s made with grapes harvested from the vineyards just outside your bedroom window.

Out and about

When you are ready to explore the local wine regions, the hotel can also facilitate that. Antinori, makers of the celebrated Super Tuscan Tignanello, is a 12-minute drive away from Castello Del Nero, making a cellar tour practically obligatory. Other Chianti headliners such as Castello di Ama are not much further.

Meanwhile, daily free shuttles will whisk you to Florence or Siena if you’d like to break up the tastings with wanders around some of the world’s most treasure-packed museums.

When you return from the buzz of the towns or tasting rooms, you’ll be greeted by a sunset wash above the hotel’s broad terrace and total tranquillity. For dinner, choose a cheese-smothered wood-fired pizza under the stars – or, if you are feeling COMO-style virtuous, a salad. We know which one we’d pick…

For more information visit COMO Castello Del Nero. 

Four nights B&B from £1,629pp with flights, transfers and UK lounge passes with Elegant Resorts.

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There are cities with a wine scene – and then there’s Porto. Wine is in its DNA. For centuries inky fortified Port has been aged right here, in the cool riverside warehouses of Vila Nova de Gaia.

In recent years, as the UNESCO-listed city has moved from shabby to chic, visitors have poured in. And among the soaring historic billboards advertising Sandeman and Croft, there has been a shift.

Cool restaurants, cutting-edge museums and exclusive places to stay have cropped up in the old cobbled streets, ushering in a new era of tourism. Among them is The Yeatman, the ultimate Portuguese wine hotel.

A modern, window-lined resort on garden slopes in Vila Nova de Gaia, The Yeatman overlooks the jumble of Porto’s old town – a view most mesmerising when taken in at dusk from the terrace of your suite. The immediate surrounds are equally special, particularly for wine lovers.

Pass the Port

The hotel is a cork’s toss from the historic Taylor’s Port warehouse and its tasting room. This is no accident. The Yeatman is named after Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman, one of the biggest names in Port and the owner of the hotel.

This stay is not just some Taylor’s branding exercise however. Rather, it is a democratic vinous celebration that champions top Portuguese wines of many kinds. Each one of the 109 bedrooms is named after a lauded local producer, with bottles and other memorabilia dotting the butter-hued interiors.

There is a superbly stocked wine shop and multiple in-house cellars. One of these hosts tutored tastings and winemaker masterclasses. A Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa is on site, too, where antioxidant-rich grape products make an appearance in facials and massages. Descend down a vine-lined spiral staircase to its soothing embrace, then have your body buffed with a Cabernet scrub or soak in a tranquil ‘barrel bath’ overlooking the city.

Tempting tastings

The Yeatman’s vinous highlight, though, is its Gastronomic Restaurant. Book well ahead for the two-star Michelin tasting menu from chef Ricardo Costa. Expect eel with panko breadcrumbs or suckling pig with soufflé potato crisps. Opt for the wine pairings and you’ll sample some unconventional pours, such as whites from the Azores.

Alternatively choose your own bottle from Porto’s finest list. There are 1,300 labels, 94% of them Portuguese. As you’d expect, Port is strongly represented, and older vintages are opened by your sommelier with suitable theatre using searing hot tongs.

While you’ll have the opportunity to taste many of Portugal’s finest wines here, nothing beats sampling at the source. Staff can arrange day trips into the nearby Douro Valley to the most exclusive of quintas; for example, Quinta do Vesuvio, which is open by appointment only.

Local attractions

A speedy boat transfer across the Douro River can also be arranged, so you can explore Porto’s old town within minutes, with no need to traverse the soaring Dom Luís I bridge. The Yeatman can also tailor experiences at WOW, the cultural district next door that’s also owned by Taylor’s.

WOW, the World of Wine, is perhaps the greatest new reason for oenophiles to book into this stay. With seven museums and a dozen restaurants and bars, it is an adult Disneyland with wine at its heart. Tour a fabulous interactive wine museum, explore how corks are made or plunge into a pink ball pit in an outrageous exhibition on rosé (cheesy, but great fun). It’s all less than five-minutes’ walk from The Yeatman.

That means, after a day of exploring, you’re just five minutes away from a sundowner on your private terrace. Or a dip in one of the hotel’s two panoramic infinity pools. Or a quiet read in The Yeatman’s library, with something delicious to sip in hand. When it comes to city wine tourism, you can’t beat that.

For more information visit The Yeatman.

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When it comes to wine region holidays, Napa Valley sets the standard. Not only with its glossy tasting rooms, lauded restaurants and artisan farmers’ markets. The hotel scene, too, is unrivalled.

From upmarket B&Bs to elaborate resorts, there seems to be an eye-catching new opening with every passing season. Take the Four Seasons Napa Valley, which just launched within a Calistoga vineyard last year. And yet, for all the flashy competition, 40 years after first welcoming visitors, Auberge du Soleil still remains one of the region’s stars.

Back in 1981, when the Napa tourism industry was comparatively still in its nappies, Frenchman Claude Rouas and his business partner Bob Harmon opened Auberge in Rutherford as a Gallic-inspired restaurant. But the 13ha property – perched up a winding wooded drive, overlooking the Mayacamas Mountains and a blanket of vineyards – was too good to keep just for mealtimes.

Five years later it was transformed into a small, exclusive resort, among the first of its kind in Napa Valley. Later, as the company grew into the Auberge Resorts Collection, the hotel inspired unique properties in other coveted US destinations. These included Aspen, Hawaii and the Blue Mountains. The latest sister property, Stanly Ranch, opened half an hour south of Auberge du Soleil just this May.

Luxury lifestyle

It’s little wonder that Auberge du Soleil continues to have such a loyal following. This place combines all the hedonistic pleasures that Napa is famed for – wine, food, spa – with a tranquillity that lets you leave the region’s crowds behind. As soon as you pass through its soaring gates, you feel part of an exclusive club; miles from the tourist rush, yet tucked right at the Valley’s heart.

Perched on a sun-drenched hillside amid olive and oak trees, 50 rooms and suites are split across stand-alone mansions, lending privacy. Taking in the verdant view while enjoying an evening glass of wine on your terrace, it’s easy to feel like all of Napa is yours.

Auberge du Soleil doesn’t pander to passing trends. The property was founded with Provence in mind, and it still subscribes to the same timelessly chic aesthetic, with honey hues and beamed ceilings.

Food and drink

Meanwhile, Michelin-starred dinners on The Restaurant’s terrace show the deftness of French-style cooking with a raft of exciting local ingredients. You might have hamachi crudo with yuzu custard to start, spiced lamb with medjool dates and harissa to follow, and passionfruit pie with coconut sorbet and mango to finish.

The wine list? No less than a greatest hits reel of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, of course, including Joseph Phelps Insignia, Spottswoode Estate and the resort’s very own bottling.

The hotel dedicates itself to indulgence in other ways, too. There is a vast collection of outdoor sculpture and a sublime spa. You could easily lose an afternoon poaching away in the alfresco hot tub overlooking distant blue-green hills and a patch of knobbly olive trees.

Winery visits

But with more than 400 wineries on your doorstep offering tastings, be sure to set aside a significant amount of time to explore Napa Valley. The nearest stop, Rutherford Hill Winery, is a three-minute walk away from the hotel along the lush, squiggling road that leads up from the Silverado Trail.

But hop in a car and you can be at Stag’s Leap in 15 minutes, Opus One in 10 minutes and a dozen other wineries in 5 minutes. No need to drive; Auberge can take care of all the transfers, not to mention the booking of tastings – which is highly recommended at many popular Napa Valley wineries.

Auberge du Soleil can sort many things that normal visitors can’t too, whether that’s a sneak peak of new vintage wines before they’re bottled or a one-to-one meeting with a winemaker. For an oenophile traveller, there’s perhaps no better reason to book.

For more information visit Auberge du Soleil.

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Once a rural pocket of fruit farmers, hobby fishermen and cottage-goers, Ontario’s Prince Edward County has undergone a radical reinvention over the past decade. The vast crumbling barns and sleepy towns – perched enticingly by beach-fronted lakes or rolling fields – have been spruced up and hipster-ified. Weekending couples from Toronto, two hours west, come to raid its cute antique shops, sip sours at its breweries and feast on wood-fired pizzas in its glut of cool restaurants.

They also come to drink wine. Elegant, Burgundian-inspired Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Quirkier Baco Noir and Marechal Foch. Trendy pét-nat, piquette and orange bottles. All these, and more, are now produced by roughly 40 small scale Prince Edward County wineries. Some are only a few years old and most have an experimental mindset.

After all, a pioneering spirit is what’s needed when you’re growing at the cusp of the viticultural world. In the County winters are so cold that vines must be buried below earth each autumn, just to survive.

A place to stay

Credit: Patrick Biller

It was only a matter of time until the region’s accommodation scene caught up with the winemaking. The opening of Wander the Resort in 2020 on the banks of scenic West Lake signalled new levels of sophistication. A step above the surrounding friendly mom-and-pop B&Bs and the funky renovated motels, this stay does glam to a global standard.

That’s not to say that Wander the Resort doesn’t feel local. In many ways, it’s as Canadian as resorts come. The 10 stand-alone cabins, each sleeping up to five, come with cosy wood burners and kitchens so you can self-cater.

In summer, there are marshmallow bonfires, canoe rides on the lake and family barbecues in view of a communal pool. In winter, under a blanket of snow, there are steams in barrel saunas and poaches in a hot tub.

Credit: Tara McMullen

What’s different about Wander, however, is that the typical Canadiana kitsch has been ditched. So there are no red plaid sofas, dull brown woods or stuffed deer heads here. Instead, expect Nordic-style sleek interiors, earthy handmade pottery from nearby Ye11ow Studio, rattan pendant lights and premium soy candles from County Candle Co.

The attention to detail doesn’t stop there. Your cabin’s deck has a personal bonfire, lit automatically each morning for you to enjoy alongside breakfast. Rooms come stocked with Polaroid cameras and film so you can capture your memories romantically, in analogue.

Service is personalised and discreet, with most communications carried out by text. Even check-in takes place in the comfort of your cabin via a few taps of your phone. The first (and, should you wish, only) interaction with a staff member will be when they turn up at your floor-to-ceiling glass door with a welcome glass of local fizz or beer.

Eat and drink local

Credit: Tara McMullen

Speaking of food and drink: Prince Edward County fare is, of course, championed. Staff can help stock cabins to bursting with wine from Closson Chase, locally sourced charcuterie boards and Cherry Bomb coffee, which is roasted down the road.

A new series of vinous dinners will bring the best of the region’s winemakers to the hotel for guided tastings. Most are located just a short drive away, if you want to visit.

There is much else in the pipeline. A new communal clubhouse area, opening this year, will host a bar, spa treatment rooms, film screenings, live music and cookery classes. Meditation, self-massage and yoga classes will form the basis of a complimentary wellness programme.

Finally a gift store lets you ‘shop your cabin’, so you can take home the fabulous own-brand smellies and other County goodies.

With so much to look forward to, the future of Wander the Resort is certainly looking bright. Much like that of Prince Edward County itself.

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Green undulating valleys, flecked by pin-straight pines and flanked by woodlands. Sun-drenched olive trees and slopes carpeted in vines. Sleepy villages, cluttered with medieval builds. And, perched at the top of a hill overlooking it all, Castiglion del Bosco.

Tuscan hotels don’t get any more picturesque than this 2,000ha estate. But Castiglion del Bosco wasn’t built to be a hotel. It certainly wasn’t built to be a Rosewood. The glossy American brand with impeccable luxury creds and a celebrity following only took over the estate’s accommodation offering in 2015. 

Turn the clock back a millennia and this remarkable hilltop enclave housed a medieval castle. A 14th-century painting by Pietro Lorenzetti remains preserved in the onsite church – now a museum-worthy selfie op for hotel guests. 

Vinous roots 

Castiglion del Bosco’s Capanna Vineyard

After falling into disrepair, the hamlet was purchased by fashion scion Massimo Ferragamo in 2003 and splendidly – down to the last bit of cobbled stonework and burnt orange roof tile – regenerated into a resort. He was drawn, as all wine-loving visitors will be, by Castiglion del Bosco’s deep connection to Brunello di Montalcino.

The estate has grown grapes for centuries, long before Tuscan wines were esteemed around the world, and in 1967 Castiglion del Bosco was one of the founding members of the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino. Its wine was among the first to achieve DOC status in Italy.

Visit Castiglion del Bosco today, and you’ll see that the connection continues to thrive. Once you’ve dropped your bags in your Rosewood suite or villa – 19 new but sympathetically designed stunners opened in August 2021, almost doubling the property’s number of rooms – you can be at the onsite winery and sipping on Sangiovese verticals within minutes. 

Of course, being in the heart of Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t mean staying put at just one winery. Rosewood knows as much; the hotel offers every kind of tailored wine-tasting experience you can hope for, whether you fancy a tour of top local producers normally closed to the public or, in autumn, a truffle hunting expedition followed by a decadent winery lunch. 

But its flagship wine experience? A full day helicopter tour over the surrounding Unesco-protected Val d’Orcia, including a stop at biodynamic Podere Le Ripi winery and lunch at Michelin-starred restaurant Silene. Basically, with their connections, there’s not much the Rosewood staff can’t pull off. 

Food, feasts and relaxation 

Once you’ve had your fill of exploring, back at the hotel you can lay into full-scale indulgence. There are two Italian restaurants, serving the likes of hare pappardelle, Tuscan pigeon with pomegranate glaze and, of course, crowd-pleasing pizza. 

In summer, long-table dinners are held open-air in the organic kitchen garden, so you can feast on freshly plucked veg as the sun sinks below the hills. Wherever and whenever you’re dining, wine is a key part of it. In fact, the hotel endeavours to list every one of the Brunello region’s 240 producers. (Whether you can actually order them all is another matter; stock varies depending on when you visit.) 

Because the grounds are rambling, and the guest numbers are comparatively few, the Rosewood never feels crammed, whether you’re sipping a cocktail by the pool overlooking the Val d’Orcia or getting a lavender-scented massage in the serene spa. 

But for ultimate space and tranquillity, trade one of the suites – dressed in typically Tuscan deep reds, golden yellows, soothing creams – for an even more spacious villa. These restored 17th and 18th-century farmhouses, large enough for a big family, come with heated infinity pools, ‘mamas’ (a homely maid-meets-butler service) and, in some cases, tennis courts, jacuzzis and home theatres. In other words, only the good old fashioned Tuscan essentials…

For more information visit www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/castiglion-del-bosco

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Sonoma is often lumped together with Napa as shorthand for Californian wine country, but there is an entirely different pace of life to the place. Where Napa feels like the luxury face of corporate American winemaking, Sonoma County, 112km to the northwest, has the air of somewhere altogether more small-scale and boutique. Think less Silicon Valley tech-bro, more downshifting San Francisco hipster.

Boutique is very much the vibe at the Farmhouse Inn. The property forms a rustic-chic collection of pale-yellow buildings just off the road that meanders alongside the Russian River on its route to the Pacific Ocean. The hotel’s clapboard structures look more like something from New England than Northern California. Its vernacular charm reflects the fact that owners Joe and Catherine Bartolomei have deep roots in the local terroir. Not only has their family farmed the surrounding land for five generations but the siblings make their own wine at their nearby vineyard.

You’ll be handed a glass of their Lost & Found Pinot Noir when you check in. Head to your room through paths bordered by edible and ornamental plants. You might come across a chicken coop, a fragrant racoon or the hotel’s cat. There’s also an outdoor pool, hot tub and fire pits for toasting gooey s’mores sandwiched with Valrhona dark chocolate.

There are 25 guest rooms scattered throughout the 2.4ha property. These range from the original 1870s farmhouse to the newer, more spacious king-sized rooms bordering the surrounding woodland. All rooms are furnished with easy-on-the-eye neutrals and with gas fires for the cool-climate Californian nights. Milk and freshly baked cookies are left bedside as part of the turn-down service while rooms come equipped with eight-bottle wine fridges.

Tours and tastings

Wine, of course, is a big part of the experience here. Hour-long tastings from local producers are held every afternoon. The hotel’s sommeliers can also drive guests on bespoke vineyard tours in the surrounding Russian River Valley and also Sonoma Coast and the Alexander Valley.

It’s far more fun, however, to explore the local wine country yourself. A short Uber trip will drop you off in foodie Healdsburg, 17km away. Just down from the vibrant Plaza, which has the feel of a tree-shaded American college campus, Spoke Folk Cyclery offers bike hire along with a map of the West Dry Creek Road wineries. The circular route is so easy to navigate, however, that you can put the map away once you’ve made the right-turn out of town.

Several of the wineries have picnic spots with views over the gently rolling Dry Creek Valley, which glows in the sun like the embodiment of California’s nickname of the Golden State. Ask the Farmhouse to put together a hamper of local Dungeness crab sandwiches, or head back into Healdsburg for a late lunch. Barndiva, a few doors up from Spoke Folk, is the farm-to-table hero in town, but if it’s full, try Campo Fina for wood-fired pizza. Back at the Farmhouse, soothe sore legs (or heads) with a massage or facial in the new spa, the Wellness Barn.

Farm to table

The Farmhouse Inn’s evening-only restaurant is a destination in its own right and has held a Michelin star since 2007. Be sure to reserve a table at the same time you book your stay, and note that it doesn’t open on Tuesday and Wednesday.

Many of the hyper-local ingredients that make it onto the plate are grown in the Farmhouse’s garden or on the Bartolomei farm. These include apples from the orchards and honey from the hives. The signature dish of ‘rabbit rabbit rabbit’ – bunny served three ways as applewood smoked bacon-wrapped loin, roasted rack, and confit leg with fingerling potato and wholegrain mustard cream sauce – is typical of an approach that doesn’t let refinement get in the way of flavour-led, produce-focused enjoyment.

The wine list, meanwhile, demonstrates the depth of Californian viticulture by offering local equivalents of all the major Old World regions. For example, a Rochioli Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc instead of a Loire white. But it’s with the Californian Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that the selection really shines.

Breakfast in the dining room is no less of an event. It features a two-course menu of superfood-boosted pancakes, avocado toast and five-grain porridge as well as pastries, fresh juices and organic teas. Wine tasting is, after all, hungry as well as thirsty work…

Rates start at $735 per night without breakfast. For more information and availability visit farmhouseinn.com

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Decanter’s dream destination: L’Albereta Relais & Châteaux, Franciacorta, Italy

Decanter’s dream destination: One&Only Portonovi, Herceg Novi, Montenegro

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I’m being driven through the verdant hills of Northern Italy where the vineyards are laid out like ribbons under the late September sun. The car stops and I’m greeted by a sprawling, ivy-covered, Neo-Renaissance villa.

Despite my best efforts not to give in to cliché, I can’t help but mutter to myself: ‘Wow – la dolce vita’.

I’ve just arrived at L’Albereta, nestled within the wine region of Franciacorta. It’s part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux association; a collection of independently owned hotels and restaurants. The group’s worldwide members are evaluated and accepted on their fulfilment of its five ‘Cs’ – character, courtesy, calm, charm and cuisine.

Accommodation

There are 57 rooms to choose from at L’Albereta, but anyone wanting to experience a holiday truly worthy of a silver screen star should opt for one of the hotel’s 19 suites.

The grand suite – ‘Bellavista’ – takes up the top floor of its namesake tower. The vantage point (and two balconies) allow guests unrivalled views of the Alps, Lake Iseo and, of course, the Franciacorta vineyards.

For those who prefer a more unique perspective, the ‘Cabriolet’ suite gives the opportunity to literally sleep under the stars. With the touch of a button the ceiling above the bed cleverly retracts like a sunroof.

Spa

The Espace Chenot Health Wellness SPA

For ultimate relaxation, guests can also take advantage of the architect-designed Espace Chenot Health Wellness SPA – one of only two in Italy. Offering a range of holistic treatments, you can enjoy much more than just the standard massage or facial.

Dubbed the founding father of the wellness movement, Henri Chenot first studied biology before focusing on psychology, Chinese medicine and naturopathy. His holistic approach lead to the development of ‘biontology’, with his trademarked Chenot Method attracting celebrity fans such as Elle Macpherson and Princess Caroline of Monaco.

Food-intolerance analysis, cardio fitness assessments and the famous wellbeing programmes (choose from three to 14 days) can all be booked here.

Wine and dine

Chef Fabio Abbattista

Nearby wineries to visit for your sparkling Franciacorta fix include Bellavista, Villa Crespia, Franca Contea and Cavalleri. All offer guided tours and tastings.

Meanwhile, with four restaurants at L’Albereta, there’s no chance of going hungry. The jewel in the hotel’s crown is Leonfelice lake view restaurant, run by chef Fabio Abbattista, which serves up a fine selection of Italian cuisine.

I would urge you to try to the cacio e pepe – perfect with a glass of sparkling Franciacorta. Made from cheese, black pepper and pasta, it’s a simple dish – historically it was a staple of Roman shepherds who needed food that would last – but the execution here is sublime. It certainly captures the essence of this hotel: classic and elevated.

The more intimate Greeniege Lounge has its own library where guests are encouraged to read and relax, especially in winter when the fireplace is lit.

Or enjoy a casual pizza a libretto (which describes the act of folding a pizza like a book) at the most informal of the four dining options: La Filiale.

Reserved for guests of the Spa, the wellness restaurant offers those on a stricter diet a wealth of balanced meals. Its bay window gives enchanting views of the surrounding parkland.

Family friendly

With relaxation and serenity at the heart of the hotel’s ethos, it also offers a dedicated kid’s club for ages three and up. A separate space for children to play while they are looked after by qualified staff, gives you all the more reason to order an extra glass of Franciacorta…

For more information visit albereta.it

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Decanter’s dream destination: VIK, Chile

Decanter’s dream destination: Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, France

The post Decanter's dream destination: L’Albereta Relais & Châteaux, Franciacorta, Italy appeared first on Decanter.

Located at the entrance of Boka Bay on Montenegro’s stunning Adriatic coast, One&Only Portonovi is a new luxury hotel that makes a great base for anyone looking to explore local Montenegrin wines.

Head sommelier Rafaela Pons has curated a full programme of wine experiences. ‘Montenegro is small, yet extremely diverse. The same goes for its wines, which are extremely rich, crafted with love, dedication and attention,’ says Pons.

The ‘Wine and Dine’ experience (2.5 hours/€125pp) includes a visit to meet the owners of local winery Savina, with wine tastings and a chance to sample traditional Montenegrin cuisine. Back at the resort Pons can take guests on a ‘Journey through Wines’ (90 minutes/€45pp), a private tasting in the resort’s dedicated Wine Room that explores a selection of native wines.

The Wine Cellar at One&Only Portonovi

‘Montenegro’s strong suits are Cabernet Sauvignon and the indigenous varietal Vranac – a red grape that, in the right hands, produces a full body and complex nose like a Cabernet Sauvignon-Tempranillo blend,’ explains Pons. ‘The 2016 Vranac Reserve by Sjekloca, a tiny family-owned winery southeast of Portonovi, also scrubs up very well. Among the sweet wines, guests can discover Zizak, an indigenous white varietal now being revived by Montenegrin growers including the award-winning winery Savina, not far from the resort.’

The One&Only Portonovi concierge team can organise private day trips to Savina and other Montenegrin wineries such as Kopitovic and Plantaze. Guests can also order bespoke food and wine pairing dinners.

The resort’s three restaurants include contemporary Japanese eatery Tapasake Club and La Veranda, which offers fresh, homestyle Montenegrin cuisine. At Sabia by Giorgio Locatelli the Michelin-star chef has created a menu of seasonal Italian dishes and boasts a wood-fired pizza oven.

Relax at one of the resort’s six swimming pools

When you aren’t eating and drinking, you can go sailing, visit picturesque local towns such as Budva, or spend an afternoon wandering the tree-lined streets of Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital.

If you’re feeling energetic, trek the limestone peaks of Tara River Canyon in Durmitor National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Or simply relax by one of the hotel’s six pools or in the tranquil Chenot Espace spa.

The relaxing Chenot Espace Spa

Guests can choose from accommodation in stylish rooms, suites and private villas with their own beach and jetty. There’s plenty of space to moor your superyacht too…

For more information, visit oneandonlyresorts.com/portonovi

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Decanter’s dream destination: VIK, Chile

Decanter’s dream destination: Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

The post Decanter's dream destination: One&Only Portonovi, Herceg Novi, Montenegro appeared first on Decanter.

Chile has some incredible travel destinations and luxury hotels to go with them, but in the wine lands there are few that can compare to the grandeur and playful luxury of VIK.

Set within a private 4,450ha nature reserve, VIK rises in the distance with its shimmering crown. One of the most incredible roofs you can imagine, this swooping bronzed titanium structure echoes the folds of the undulating hillsides all around you.

As beautiful as it is from the outside, the beauty of VIK really lies inside — between the 22 bedrooms and 7 glass bungalows each designed and decorated by different artists. The owners, Norwegian billionaires and art lovers Alex and Carrie Vik, have put art to the fore throughout — selecting and commissioning each piece themselves.

One of my favourite rooms is Vicky Money, designed by Uruguayan artist Victoria Aguirre who decked out the bathroom with 50,000 one euro cent coins to make the walls and sink glimmer in copper. The colourful Valenzuela room has the iconic red lips sofa of Dalí. While the Letras bungalow boasts a hot tub on the terrace and a giant boxing glove as a lounger.

But the Master Suites are something else. Taking up the corner rooms, you get an incredible view of the valley to wake up to – and bathe to, if you score the VIK room (the owner’s favourite) with its hammock-shaped bathtub.

It’s hard to find a reason to leave the bathtub with views like that. Although the infinity pool, yoga studio and wine spa might be calling you. Or try one of the incredible horse treks you can take around the estate.

Wine and food

The underground winery itself is also a work of art, with a river rock sculpture as its roof, designed by Chilean architect Smiljan Radic and surrounded by the 327ha of vineyards. A tasting of the quadruple of VIK wines also gives you an insight into VIK’s innovative winemaking concepts — from the in-house cooperage where fallen oak is used to toast their ‘barroir’ barrels and where amphorae are made from clay from the estate.

Even the restaurant takes the ‘local’ concept to a different level. Chef Pablo Cácares grows most of his own ingredients for the fine-dining Milla Milla hotel restaurant and laid-back Pavilion winery restaurant. The rest is sourced from local artisans and breeders — including salt harvested from the nearby coast. You can harvest your own ingredients from the 80-plus vegetable varieties grown in the garden, and herbivores will welcome the newest addition to the dining experience — an outdoor vegetarian restaurant nestled between the roots, flowers and fruits.

A stay at VIK is not only a vivid once-in-a-lifetime luxury, but also a holistic deep dive into the heart of Chile’s Central Valley and all the colourful bounties it provides.

While you wait for your dream trip to Chile, you can take a 360 tour online.

For more information, visit vikwine.com

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If you want to see an example of technology genuinely making the world better, the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is happy to oblige. The boutique luxury hotel has introduced an in-room ‘Champagne Please’ button – press it and a bespoke Champagne trolley appears at your door. That’s sparkling room service…

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

Located 45 minutes from Paris, the hotel also boasts a Champagne Concierge. Hotel guests can arrange exclusive tastings and tailor-made cellar visits at nearby Champagne houses. Going behind behind the scenes of both the great Champagne marques and small artisan producers and growers, it’s a chance to really experience the winemaking secrets of the region.

You can also rent one of the hotel’s electric bicycles for a pedal-powered tour around the nearby vineyards, as well as visiting neighbouring villages such as Hautvillers. Other options include a guided vineyard tour in an open-top electric Cabriolet, boat excursions on the Marne river or a hot air balloon trip over the Montagne de Reims.

When you’ve finished exploring the vineyards and cellars, the hotel offers plenty of options for rest and relaxation. The 47 rooms and suites – all with vineyard views – combine chic French style with luxury and comfort.

The Spa pool with views over the Marne Valley

The well-equipped Spa offers custom Biologique Recherche facials and KOS PARIS body treatments, including massages and couples treatments. There’s also a yoga studio, sauna and hammam. Its calming pool has great views over the surrounding Champagne vineyards and the Marne Valley.

Wine and dine

Finally, when you’re hungry the hotel has a choice of two restaurants, both overseen by chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. More casual, Le Bellevue showcases locally sourced produce in a range of French dishes. Choices on the seasonal menu might include jambon de Reims, baked cod with Champagne sauce or beef tenderloin with pan-fried artichokes.

Meanwhile, the Michelin-starred Le Royal offers multi-course tasting menus, starting from €140, featuring Champagne pairing. Expect ambitious gastronomic dishes such as red scorpion fish with bouillabaisse consomme, fennel in olive oil and saffron rouille or Aubrac beef filet with caviar, sour cream and thyme jus, asparagus and puffed potatoes.

For room rates and availability visit Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

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