Lisbon has changed dramatically since I first started visiting the city regularly in 2002. At the time, in the aftermath of the Salazar years and then the Revolution, it was still rather rundown, with many buildings in poor repair. These have since been renovated and the city has become a very popular tourist destination.

It is easy to understand Lisbon’s popularity. Even in December the temperatures stay in the mid-to-late teens, and close proximity to the Atlantic means the searingly hot summer temperatures of the Douro or Alentejo are rare.

Lisbon is a city to walk, although it is very hilly so it helps to be reasonably fit. The city is a delight, with many beautifully tiled buildings, cobbled (and sometimes slippery!) pavements, little squares and frequent vistas across the Tagus estuary.

Despite its popularity, it is still great value. The Portuguese are friendly and welcoming, and importantly the city feels safe.

Food and drink

Three important Portuguese culinary passions are: good bread, tasty pastries and coffee. There are myriad cafés, both traditional and modern, the latter serving an international clientele who expect wifi and charging points as well as coffee.

Gleba is a bakery that makes an excellent range of sourdough breads and now has several outlets, including in the neighbourhoods of Alcântara, Amoreiras and Campo de Ourique.

Restaurants and bars:

Seafood is a speciality in Lisbon, especially wonderful shellfish and delicious grilled fish dishes. Portuguese cuisine has long been shaped by outside influences, particularly from its former colonies – Angola, Mozambique and Goa, for instance.

However, over the past decade or so, with the huge increase in foreign visitors, the Lisbon restaurant scene has become increasingly cosmopolitan.

Corrupio

Corrupio restaurant. Credit: Decanter / Jim Budd

A great place for lunch, Corrupio, in the vibrant Cais do Sodré district near the Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira), is a small and informal restaurant which opened in September 2022.

The central feature is a horseshoe-shaped bar with stools around the counter. Chef Daniel Ferreira creates delicious dishes which are perfect for sharing. The wine selection is fairly short but well chosen. Open from midday to midnight.

Rua da Moeda 1, F/G, 1200-275 Lisbon
+351 21 396 1585

Ibo

Views of the Tagus from upstairs at Ibo restaurant. Credit: Ibo Restaurant.

Also situated in the Cais do Sodré district, Ibo is a long-established and elegant restaurant with magical views over the Tagus. It opened in 2008 in a former salt warehouse. It is best to book a table upstairs, preferably by the window, where there are great views of ferries coming and going in the Tagus estuary.

João Pedrosa, owner and chef, comes from Mozambique, and this heritage is reflected in the fusion of Mozambican and Portuguese food.

Although the menu does not change much, the food is consistently good and the wine list well chosen, while the service is professional and attentive.

Compartimento 2, Cais do Sodré Armazem A, 1200-450 Lisbon
+351 961 332 024

Atira-te ao Rio

Evening views of the Tagus from Atira-te ao Rio restaurant. Credit: Decanter / Jim Budd.

On the south side of the Tagus and with great views across the estuary to the city, the Atira-te ao Rio restaurant is the perfect spot for lunch. There are few things better than sitting outside by the water’s edge on a Sunday with a chilled glass of white or rosé, admiring the view and watching the boats on the river while contemplating what to eat. Summer evenings watching the sun go down are also magical.

The cuisine is Portuguese with some international touches and the wine list is reasonably priced. Booking is advisable, especially at the weekends. To get there, take the short ferry ride from Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré district across the Tagus to Cacilhas.

Rua do Ginjal 69, 2800-284 Almada
+351 21 275 13 80

Taberna da Rua das Flores

Taberna da Rua das Flores. Credit: Taberna da Rua das Flores.

Located just off the Praça Luís de Camões square, the perennial queues outside this small, cramped restaurant are testament to its popularity and the magic of Angola-born André Magalhães’ brilliantly inventive fusion cooking. The idea is to share a number of petiscos (tapas). No reservations and cash only, but it’s still well worth any waiting time to get a table.

Rua das Flores, 103, 1200-194 Lisbon
+351 213 479 418

Antiga Camponesa

Grilled snails with mustard sauce at Antiga Camponesa. Credit: Antiga Camponesa.

André Magalhães’ new venture opened in autumn 2022. Unlike his very successful Taberna da Rua das Flores, this is a more spacious and stylish restaurant with 15 tables offering a more traditional format – starters, main course and dessert – sharing or not, as you wish. The cooking is just as inventive and delicious, while the wine offering is more extensive. Reservations and credit cards are accepted.

Rua Mal. Saldanha 25, 1200-259 Lisbon
+351 21 347 1515

BAHR

The terrace at BAHR restaurant. Credit: BAHR.

The upmarket Bairro Alto Hotel on the Praça Luís de Camões square in central Lisbon was renovated in 2019. Open from breakfast through to dinner, BAHR is its elegant and stylish restaurant serving Portuguese cuisine in an international style. Just adjacent to the restaurant is a rooftop terrace bar with spectacular views over the lower part of Lisbon and the Tagus – great for an aperitif or digestif.

Praça Luís de Camões nº 2, 1200-243 Lisbon
+351 213 408 253

Senhor Uva

Senhor Uva restaurant. Credit: Senhor Uva.

Close to the Jardim da Estrela, Senhor Uva opened in January 2019. It started as a wine bar with food but is now a restaurant serving highly inventive, plant-based dishes created by chef and co-owner Stéphanie Audet.

Senhor Uva specialises in organic, biodynamic and natural wines, with a wide-ranging list mainly focused on Europe, particularly Georgia, plus a few from Australia and the USA.

The knowledgeable staff complement the intriguing wine selection. Its other dining room – Senhor Manuel – is just across the street. Book online to avoid disappointment.

Rua de Santo Amaro 66A, 1200-804 Lisbon
+351 213 960 917

Cervejaria Ramiro

Credit: Cervejaria Ramiro

Lisbon’s most famous shellfish restaurant, founded in April 1956, is an excellent destination spread across three floors. Justifiably popular, booking is strongly recommended.

Avenida Almirante Reis 1 H, 1150-007 Lisbon
+351 21 885 1024

A Praça

Credit: A Praça

Situated in the district of Beato and housed in a converted military building, this brilliant, informal food and wine space opened in September 2022, and is both a restaurant and retail outlet. There are cheese and charcuterie boards to share, plus very good petiscos.

Olavo Silva Rosa is responsible for the strong wine selection which features Portugal, Italy, Spain and France. Corkage fees from the retail wine store are imaginative – €10 for the first bottle, €5 for the second, and no charge for the third! A Praça is rather out of the way, so a taxi is the best option to get there and back.

Tv. Grilo 1, 1950-145 Lisbon
+351 912 421 223

A Casa Dos Passarinhos

Credit: A Casa Dos Passarinhos.

Founded in 1923, Passarinhos is a lovely, traditional Portuguese restaurant on the eastern edge of Campo de Ourique. Very good grilled fish and meat is the restaurant’s mainstay, with daily changing specials.

Offering great value, including reasonably priced wine, Passarinhos is deservedly popular with a largely local clientele. There are often queues outside the restaurant on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Rua Silva Carvalho 195, 1250-249 Lisbon
+351 21 388 2346

Close to Lisbon:

Restaurante da Adraga

Credit: Restaurante da Adraga

This restaurant is the only building at Praia da Adraga, a small, unspoilt cove just 3km north of Cabo da Roca (40km west of Lisbon) – the most westerly point of mainland Europe (this surely must qualify as mainland Europe’s most westerly restaurant).

Come here for great shellfish – the crab is highly recommended – to be followed by brilliant grilled fish partnered by a bottle or so of Vinho Verde. Try to get a table by the window overlooking the beach and out across the Atlantic.

The restaurant is understandably popular, especially in summer, so best to book.

Praia da Adraga, Sintra, 2705-063
+351 219 280 028

Terroso

Credit: Terroso.

Pedro and Vitalina Marques used to be involved in a popular restaurant and wine bar in Lisbon’s Bairro Alto. They have now set up Terroso in Cascais, a seaside resort on the Tagus estuary about a 45-minute train ride from Lisbon.

Vitalina is a great chef, specialising in high-quality traditional Portuguese cuisine. Pedro, a professional wine taster, is front of house and will always find interesting wines for customers to try. The restaurant is quite small, so do book.

Rua do Poço Novo 17, 2750-467 Cascais
+351 21 486 2137

Non-Portuguese:

Three top restaurants that reflect Lisbon’s increasingly cosmopolitan restaurant scene:

Kabuki

Credit: Kabuki

This is the Lisbon outpost of the Kabuki Group, which opened its first restaurant in Madrid in 2000.

Kabuki Lisbon is in the renovated Ritz Galleries overlooking Edward VII Park. It opened in late 2021, was awarded a Michelin Star within a year, and offers high-end, exquisite Japanese food matched by a remarkable wine list put together by wine director Filipe Wang – for instance, there is a vertical of Clos Rougeard running from 2016 back to 2009.

Rua Castilho, nº 77- 77E, 1070-050 Lisbon
+351 212 491 683

Ruvida

Credit: Ruvida

With its small attractive terrace, Ruvida is a friendly Italian restaurant in Alcântara run by Valentina from Bologna and her partner Michel.

Valentina’s homemade pasta is very special, the cooking inventive and the wine list features both Portuguese and Italian wines.

Valentina and Michel recently opened Pausa & Crescente, a wine bar/café also in Alcântara but closer to the Tagus. Booking is advised.

Praça da Armada 17, 1350-027 Lisbon
+351 21 395 0977

The Old House

Credit: The Old House

This is an excellent and very popular large Chinese restaurant in the Parque das Nações, the site of the world fair Expo 1998. I have enjoyed some of the best Chinese food ever in The Old House. Try to get a table upstairs with views over the Tagus. Booking is advised, especially at the weekends.

Rua da Pimenta 9, 1990-254 Lisbon
+351 218 969 075

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The quickest way to get to the Similkameen Valley in Canada’s western province of British Columbia is to fly to Penticton then rent a car and drive 30 minutes southwest to Keremeos. But those in the know relish the four-hour, 350km drive up from Vancouver via the scenic Crowsnest Highway. It’s one of the world’s great road trips.

Heading inland from the Pacific coast, Crowsnest Highway (BC Hwy 3) winds up into the Cascade Mountains and through spectacular Manning Provincial Park, then chicanes back down again into the semi-arid southern BC interior. Through the mountains, the highway parallels a fast-flowing stream that eventually broadens out into the majestic Similkameen River, which then tracks the snaking road until reaching the farming town of Keremeos and nearby hamlet of Cawston.

The scenic Crowsnest Highway. Credit: Darren Robinson Photography

You’ve arrived in the Similkameen Valley, one of Canada’s most exciting wine regions hidden in plain sight. This emerging appellation lies, figuratively and literally, in the shadow of the much larger and more visited Okanagan Valley. Compared to the Okanagan, the Similkameen is blessedly empty of people. It is also stunningly beautiful, with soaring mountains framing the valley floor and vineyards interspersed among the older fruit orchards.

Undiscovered and unspoiled

The valley is arid and sunny, with less precipitation and more sunshine hours than almost any other BC wine region. That, plus the persistent winds that blow down from the surrounding mountains, helps keep the vineyards dry, clean and disease-free. No wonder Cawston is the organic farming capital of Canada.

Another key factor contributing to the exceptional fruit quality is the high diurnal range. While summer daytime temperatures on the valley floor can reach 40ºC, the nights are much cooler, resulting in a longer growing season and higher natural acidity in the grapes.

The bucolic Similkameen Valley. Credit: Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The region doesn’t yet have a distinctive wine identity, but there are some indicators of terroir affinity emerging. Riesling has planted a serious stake in these stony soils, as has Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon.

From just a couple of wineries a decade ago, there are now 12 cellar doors open to the public (from April to October), stretching 26km from Keremeos almost down to the US border. Most are small-scale and family-owned. For more information, visit Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The Similkameen Valley is a work in progress, but it retains a strong collective pioneering spirit among its farmers and winemakers – and the wine options are growing exponentially. There aren’t the hotels, restaurants and bars visitors might have experienced in other wine regions, but that is all part of the Similkameen’s charm: a relatively undiscovered and unspoiled corner of Canada with a real sense of place and authenticity. Which makes a visit here especially rewarding.

Six Similkameen Valley wineries to visit

Crowsnest Vineyards has some of the oldest vines in the Similkameen Valley.

Crowsnest Vineyards

In 2018, siblings Anna and Sascha Heinecke took over the reins from their parents at Crowsnest Vineyards, a family-run winery, restaurant and guesthouse. Since then they have pursued a vision of estate-grown, terroir-driven winemaking. They are custodians of some of the oldest vines in the valley, with original blocks of Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot first planted in 1989. With the family’s German heritage, their Riesling is particularly adept, with crisp minerality, balanced acidity and citrus fruit. Open daily in season.

The terrace at Seven Stones – perfect for watching raptors over the valley.

Seven Stones

After Seven Stones founder George Hanson died suddenly in 2021, seasoned winemaker Dwight Sick took charge at this charming winery in the southern Similkameen Valley. Sick believes strongly in sustainable agriculture and practises light-touch winemaking. Visit the underground barrel caves, unique in this region, and enjoy a tasting and picnic on the stunning terrace overlooking the Similkameen River below, while watching raptors hawking the valley. Open daily in season.

Orofino Vineyards

John and Virginia Weber founded Orofino Vineyards in 2001, after moving to the Similkameen Valley from Saskatchewan. Since then they have pioneered micro-terroir winemaking in the valley, creating a suite of ever more impressive wines each reflecting their unique sense of place. Most of their vineyards are on the Cawston Bench, but they’ve also acquired a high-altitude plot in the cooler Olalla Gap off Highway 3A north of Orofino and planted 1.2ha of Cabernet Franc there. While all Orofino’s wines are delicious, don’t miss their single vineyard Rieslings, in particular the Home Vineyard Old Vines. Open daily in season except Tuesdays.

Clos du Soleil champions red and white Bordeaux grape varieties.

Clos du Soleil

Set against the mountains on the Upper Bench above Keremeos, Clos du Soleil is forging its own vinous path, focused on the classic Bordeaux grape varietals. It’s surprising how well Cabernet Sauvignon does here at 49º North, contributing a distinctive perfumed elegance to the estate’s flagship Signature red blend. Co-owner/winemaker Mike Clark’s Capella white blend (Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc) is no slouch either. Open daily in season, by appointment.

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Owned by the Baessler family, who originally hail from Switzerland, second-generation Charlie and Jesce Baessler’s estate sits next door to Clos du Soleil overlooking Keremeos, with similar microclimatic conditions. The vine rows are planted north-south, which Charlie explains helps with sunlight exposure on these south-facing slopes. From its 12ha of planted grapes, Corcelettes makes around 6,000 cases of wine a year. An outdoor tasting on the upper patio perched above the vineyard is not to be missed. Reservations advised. Open daily in season.

An aerial view of Vanessa Vineyard.

Vanessa Vineyard

Named for the numerous butterflies that owner Suki Sekhon discovered on his first visit to this site – Vanessa is a Greek word for butterfly – Vanessa is one of the newer wineries in Similkameen. The west- and south-facing hillside vineyards and extremely rocky soils make this an ideal site for growing black grapes. The rocks absorb daytime heat, reflecting warmth back during the cool nights, which helps produce complex, intense flavours with notable minerality. Winemaker Howard Soon is a veteran in the BC wine world, and his estate-grown red wines are among the best in the valley. Open Thursday to Monday mid-April to end May, then daily in summer.

The picturesque Chopaka Bridge over the Similkameen River.

My perfect day in the Similkameen Valley

Morning

Start your day with a visit to Klippers Marketplace and Café, where a delicious breakfast of home-baked pastries, granola or fruit smoothies, accompanied by great espresso coffee, awaits. You can also stock up here on fresh organic produce, preserves and juices from the Klippers farm. After breakfast, head down Highway 3 to the southern end of the valley, home to several wineries – including Seven Stones. Or drive over the picturesque Chopaka Bridge to explore the more rural right (west) bank of the river. Just remember that most of this land is the traditional territory of the Lower Similkameen Indian Band, and respect their culture and customs when traversing it.

Lunch  and afternoon

Heading back up Highway 3, veer right onto Barcello Road, which hugs the base of the mountains to the east. After 6km, turn off onto Lowe Drive and head to Crowsnest Vineyards for a wine tasting and lunch at the Heinecke’s idyllic restaurant. Choose from house-made charcuterie platters with artisan sourdough breads, fresh salads and vegetables, and seasonal fruits – all grown by local farmers surrounding Crowsnest. After lunch, further winery visits await nearby in Cawston or on the benchlands above Keremeos. Riesling fans should make a beeline for Orofino, while lovers of both red and white Bordeaux blends will already have an appointment booked at Clos du Soleil.

Evening

The standout restaurant for dinner in the Similkameen is Row Fourteen. Yes, it’s located in the 14th row of the Klippensteins’ apple orchard! You can choose either the Herbivore or Locavore Harvest Menus, or order à la carte. Using all locally grown or farmed food, meals don’t get any fresher than this.

Your Similkameen Valley address book

The view from the deck at one of Orofino Vineyards’ suites.

Self-catering accommodation

Orofino Vineyards Suites

Two modern, elegantly appointed suites overlook the vineyards of this winery in Cawston. Located above the winery barrel room, the open-plan living/dining/kitchen areas are bright, spacious and lead onto large furnished decks. Kitchens are fully equipped to make great meals.

Similkameen Wild Resort Hotel

The closest thing to a resort hotel in the Similkameen. It’s located in the far south end of the valley so is quite isolated, but has a beautiful wilderness setting near the river and an outdoor swimming pool – a rarity in these parts. Accommodation ranges from mountain view suites with private balconies to a unique glamping option in two authentic indigenous tepees, one of which has a soaker tub. A continental breakfast is included.

Klippers Guest Suites

Surrounded by an apple orchard, this two-storey building has two ground-level and two upper-level suites, all with three bedrooms. All suites have well-equipped modern kitchens and dining/living areas, and outdoor decks or patios with barbeques. A short walk to Row Fourteen restaurant (see below).

Row Fourteen restaurant is set in an apple orchard.

Restaurants

Row Fourteen

The region’s top-rated restaurant leads the way with brilliant fresh food in an elegant, airy space and large outdoor patio. The restaurant celebrates the region, from farm to vineyard to forest. Great selection of Similkameen Valley wines. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday-Tuesday. Reservations required for dinner.

The Farm Store

More café than restaurant, you can nevertheless have a delicious breakfast here, and they also serve light lunches in summer. Open in season, check hours online.

Crowsnest Vineyards

A charming, casual restaurant attached to the winery of the same name. If weather permits, eat outdoors on the patio beside the vines. Think charcuterie and cheese platters, home-baked sourdough bread, and wine flights. Open for lunch and dinner. Enquire about their outdoor wood-fired pizza nights.

Shopping

Stop off at one or more of the many fruit and vegetable stalls that line the Crowsnest Highway just before Keremeos (the fruit stand capital of Canada) and in Cawston (Canada’s organic farming capital). Load up on delicious seasonal fruits and veggies such as peaches, apples, apricots, garlic, heirloom tomatoes, corn and much more.

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The post Discovering Canada’s Similkameen Valley appeared first on Decanter.

From child-friendly activities through to cellar tours and Michelin-starred restaurants, the below selection highlights the best of what you can do in Bordeaux in 2023 and has something for every wine lover.

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For wine lovers worldwide, heading to Paris is a no brainer. Although home to quite a few staples, the city’s wine bar scene is constantly evolving. Whether you’re keen on the classics, can’t get enough of natural wine, or find yourself straddled somewhere in between, the City of Lights promises an endless amount of chic options for imbibing amongst friends.

When seeking out wine bars in Paris, we take a few major factors into consideration: ambiance, price point, food options and – of course – wine selection. Although a difficult feat, we’ve rounded up 15 unmissable places to drink wine in Paris. Some featured spots provide a quaint and quiet reprieve from the city’s constant bustle, while others provide ample, patron-packed terrace space perfect for people watching. Our comprehensive list features a mix of traditional establishments and new-to-the-scene spots, which cater to a variety of wine styles, palate preferences, budgets and location. Santé!

Delicatessen Place

Best for natural wine

Formerly a shoe repair shop, Delicatessen Place is one of the buzziest places to drink wine in the City of Lights. Spearheaded by mother-and-son team, Mireille and Gabriel Langlois, this small cave à vin is the perfect example of rustic meets homey. The space itself, clad with concrete walls and free-hanging lightbulbs, is tiny, but the hospitality is in no short supply.

Expect rotating by-the-glass pours selected by Mireille and Gabriel themselves. For thirstier drinkers, grab a bottle from the shop next door (with the advice of the expert team, of course) and simply enjoy back at the bar space – or do as the hipsters do and sip on the sidewalk. In terms of snacks, no-frills options such as oeufs mimosa, freshly sliced charcuterie, escargots and radishes with butter grace the small plates menu and are served buffet style, as the bar’s name implies.

Bonvivant

Best crowdpleaser

Although Paris’ Right Bank tends to get all of the wine bar love, Bonvivant is absolutely worth the jaunt across the Seine. Located just a hop, skip and a jump away from the city’s famed Panthéon, this classic Parisian wine bar has something for everyone. Its bible-like wine list strikes the perfect balance between classically styled bottles and natural wines, with a number of cult classics from each side of the range peppered in.

Contrary to many other spots on our list, Bonvivant’s food offerings are quite robust. While small plate favourites (think terrine, rillettes and pâté en croûte) are available, sprawling cheese and meat planches, as well as heartier mains (entrecôte, lamb shoulder and risotto) are also available. Grab a seat indoors for a more traditional bistro setting or enjoy a seat al fresco for prime people watching on the Rue des Écoles – and don’t forget to snag a signature Bonvivant sweatshirt or t-shirt for the road.

Bistrot Paul Bert

Best for lunch

For an industry favourite that can go the limits, look no further than Bistrot Paul Bert. Aptly located on Rue Paul Bert, this old school French bistrot covers all of our bases – the food is simple yet well executed, served up quickly and has remained at a reasonable price despite the renown the spot’s received over the past few years.

While walking in sans reservation is pretty tricky for dinner, arriving as soon as the restaurant opens for lunch is a relatively solid bet. The restaurant’s small-yet predictable specials arrive on a handwritten chalkboard menu, while standard offerings include steak frites with peppercorn sauce, pot au feu and other meat-heavy classics. Vegetarians, fear not. The kitchen can easily prepare you some (very delicious) roasted vegetables and a side of fries, though don’t expect much more than that.

Chambre Noire

Best for late night

Wine industry folks know that when it comes to late night debauchery, the vibrant Chambre Noire is where it’s at. Established in 2015, this vibrant wine bar was founded by Rémy Kaneko and Oliver Lomeli, the latter of whom was previously a partner at Café Chilango. Here, the duo serves up a variety of no-sulphur wines from an array of European wine regions, with no bottle priced over €35.

In terms of food, expect a handful of plant-based small plates with a selection of seafood options peppered in, though don’t arrive at the bar too hungry. While there is ample seating space indoors, it’s at the bar, high-top tables and – above all – outdoors on the sidewalk where the party’s at. Note: While Google says the bar’s hours are from 6pm to midnight (closed Sundays), we’ve never seen a Chambre Noire night end at that hour.

Ma Cave Fleury

Best unique bar

We don’t say this lightly, but Ma Cave Fleury really isn’t like any other wine bar we’ve experienced in Paris. Founded in 2009 by Morgane Fleury (of the Champagne Fleury family), this warm and welcoming wine bar offers a breath of fresh air from the sex club-lined streets of Rue Saint Denis. In addition to being the global ambassador for her family’s biodynamic Champagnes, Morgane Fleury serves up a number of other organic and biodynamic pours at this quaint, hole-in-the-wall bar – and at a good price, too.

Food offerings are limited to standard meat and cheese plates, though those heading to Ma Cave Fleury are really there for the hospitality and ambiance, where old wine barrels are repurposed as tables and a variety of local wine lovers, stage performers and industry folk brush shoulders along the cave’s sidewalk terrace. Contrary to the snobbery that large Champagne houses can often exude, Ma Cave Fleury completely embodies the warmth and conviviality offered by smaller, family-owned grower estates.

La Belle Hortense

Best for bookworms

Two of life’s greatest joys – booze and books – collide at La Belle Hortense. Located amongst the tiny streets of Paris’ famed Marais neighbourhood, this simple oasis, easily spotted by its bright blue exterior, offers a quiet reprieve from the bustle of the area’s trendy boutiques and touristy restaurants. Grab a glass (or small carafe, should the mood strike) and something to read and enjoy the often-missed tranquil side of this vibrant neighbourhood. The bar also hosts a variety of literary events, including poetry readings, book release parties, author meet-and-greets and more.

With regards to food, the kitchen is spearheaded by Xavier Denamur, a talented chef passionate for organic and locally-sourced produce, who also happens to oversee the selections at Au Petit Fer à Cheval. Set menus go for €24, though à la carte options, including small plates, salads and pastries are also available. Pro tip: the small room in the back of the bar offers a serene setting to lose yourself in your latest read, though for those travelling solo, grabbing a seat at the bar is a great place to strike up conversation with other literature-loving voyagers.

La Tour d’Argent

Best for a splurge

For a splurge-worthy wine experience that promises a lifetime of memories, head to the iconic La Tour d’Argent, located at 15 Quai de la Tournelle. Originally established as an inn during the 1500s, the space morphed into a restaurant space around 300 years later. The dining room’s sixth-floor location offers sprawling views over the Seine, only made better when enjoyed with one of the restaurant’s 300,000 – yes, we said 300,000 – wine selections.

La Tour d’Argent’s epic wine cellar is home to one of the most diverse collections in the world, spanning 15,000 references across a number of global regions. Though don’t be intimidated by the encyclopaedia-sized list; the restaurant’s well-versed sommelier team is ready (and quite eager) to guide you along your journey. While indulging in the restaurant’s tasting menu will run you a pretty penny – about €400, to be exact – ordering á la carte offers a much more wallet-friendly experience. With regards to the menu, all ingredients are sourced locally and dietary restrictions are accommodated with notice. While La Tour d’Argent likely won’t become your go-to Parisian spot, a ‘treat yourself’ moment to this little slice of wine heaven is simply unforgettable.

Barav

Best for groups

In terms of location, selection and affordability, Barav is certainly one of the city’s best. Couple that with simple-yet-tasty snacks, central location, a great outdoor terrace and friendly service, and it’s truly no surprise that this place finds itself on our list. Although the bar has been around since 2007 – and has definitely grown in popularity since then – Barav (which is short for bar à vin) has still managed to maintain its neighbourhood feel.

The wine bar/wine cave features over 250 references, all available to purchase for takeaway or consume on site. The ever-changing by-the-glass list features 12 references at all times, most of which are traditional expressions from classic regions, and a variety of planches and sandwiches promise to satisfy your urge to snack without weighing you down. On a sunny day, grab a seat on the terrace, pop a bottle of your choice (with a low corkage fee of just €6), and enjoy. Don’t skip on the gooey croque campagne, laden with gooey truffled brie, honey and arugula.

Le Bon Georges

Best bistro

Fair warning: Le Bon Georges isn’t your average, run-of-the-mill Parisian bistro. Located in the 9th arrondissement, this restaurant’s jaw-dropping storefront is like something out of a movie, clad with wooden walls, chalkboard slate menus and a beautiful wrap-around terrace. The restaurant was founded by Benoit Duval-Arnould, a former agricultural engineer, back in 2013. Since then, he’s entrusted the restaurant’s Bible-like wine list to his head sommelier, Elise Esnouf, who is ready and eager to lead guests to their perfect bottle.

Expect hearty French dishes (gratin dauphinois, steak haché, homemade chips and more), crafted from high-quality ingredients sourced from local purveyors. In terms of wine, this highly curated list has all of its bases covered. Best of all, the restaurant is open 7 days per week, from 12-3pm for lunch and 6-11pm for dinner service (and continuous drinks/snack service at the bar in between).

Willi’s Wine Bar

Best for classics

Contrary to popular belief, Willi’s is not actually named for the founder of this long-standing Parisian wine bar, but rather a local dog that prowled the streets of Paris’ 1st arrondissement in days past. The bar has been a staple in the neighbourhood since 1980, originally established by Englishman Mark Williamson.

Williamson’s love for Rhône wines – despite their unpopularity a few decades back – allowed him to secure deep yearly quantities of wines that find themselves allocated today. For those looking to indulge in back vintages of Clape, Gangloff and other classic producers, this is the place for you. Willi’s robust wine selections are served up alongside a mix of classic French and American favourites, including foie gras, mushroom lasagne, burgers, magret de canard and bouillabaisse. Although Rhône-heavy, the list presents extensive offerings from Champagne, Burgundy and Italy. By-the-glass options are served in small, standard and carafe sizes, and an extensive dessert menu is available. (Side note: For those looking to pay homage to Willi himself, you’ll find his tomb just under the gas meter to the left of the bar’s front door.)

Dix Visions de la Joie

Best terrace

Tucked away in Paris’ 20th arrondissement, Dix Visions de la Joie is undoubtedly one of the city’s best-kept secrets. The bar’s immense outdoor space is perfect, both child and pet friendly, rendering it perfect for parents (and family members) looking to release some steam outdoors. Expect a modest selection of well-curated organic and natural wines as well a small selection of artisanal beers. Although the wine offerings are predominantly French, a small offering of bottles from Italy and Georgia can also be found.

Food options are limited, although quite delicious and rather filling. Expect seasonally-focused small plates centered around vegetables and seafood, such as ricotta with sliced vegetables, crab sandwiches and standard small plate offerings including cheese boards, rillettes and more.

Vantre

Best for dinner

With a name like Vantre, the gastronomic expectations are already set high – and when we say that this spot overdelivers, we mean it. Founded by Marco Pelletier (formerly of Le Bristol) in 2016, this wine-focused restaurant has quickly become a must-visit for local and international imbibers alike. Located just a few steps from the foot of the Canal Saint-Martin, this casual restaurant stocks around 6,000 references (including on and off the list) in its immense cellar, with Pelletier ready and eager to navigate any palate preference to their perfect bottle.

Although a simple entrée, the restaurant has become renowned for its sage butter gnocchi, which is perhaps the menu’s most delicious item. Japanese chef Masaki Nagao (formerly of Clarence) meticulously crafts a handful of other plates, ranging from roasted pig to white asparagus to savoury pigeon and foie gras pies and beyond. For those looking to pinch a few pennies, head to Vantre at lunch for its set menu (€17-21) as opposed to ordering à la carte at dinner. In terms of wine, Pelletier has something for everyone, from simple Loire Valley quaffers to back vintages of DRC. Best of all, the restaurant is open on Mondays (shocker!) and the hospitality is nothing short of exceptional.

Le Petit Sommelier

Best for aged wine at low prices

From the outside, Le Petit Sommelier may look like your average stuffy, white-tablecloth-bearing French restaurant. However, this unassuming restaurant offers much more than meets the eye. Truth be told, many of the spots on our list are located on the Right Bank, as these northerly neighbourhoods tend to be hotter spots for wine drinking. However, Le Petit Sommelier is worth the trek across the river. Located a hop, skip and a jump away from the Gare Montparnasse, this restaurant is home to one of the most epic wine lists in the entire city – and in terms of finding old wine at insane prices, it’s unbeatable.

Although the food is nothing to write home about, the carte des vins promises a night to remember. Home to over 750 references, Le Petit Sommelier’s cellar is laden with back vintages of DRC and classic Loire Valley producers, many of which can be found hovering around the €100 mark. Picks from the United States, Italy and Australia are also widely available. Over 20 wines are available by the glass at all times, with frequent 10 to 15-year-old pours offered for just over €10 a pop. On the food front, expect traditional meat-heavy bistro fare (steak tartare, rib eye, homemade foie gras) served up in a Belle Epoque reminiscent dining room.

Le Grand Bain

Best for apéro

Looking for tasty wine and delicious small plates in a bustling ambiance? Le Grand Bain is the answer. Located at the end of the famous Rue Dénoyez, often unofficially referred to as ‘the graffiti street near Aux Folies’, this bar is one of the most delightful places to drink wine in Paris. Expect a natural/organic-focused list from benchmark French producers, all served alongside flavour-packed small plates that – fair warning – may turn into dinner.

Chef Edward Delling-Williams, formerly of Au Passage, excels at meticulously crafted tapas-style snacks, most of which are fish and veggie focused (think pan-fried mushrooms, grilled scallops and ever-addictive panisse). In terms of wine, there’s no shortage of bright reds from the Loire, textured whites from the Jura and a slew of frothy bubbles – many of which are available in magnums. Reservations – even for apéro – are highly recommended, though if indulging in small plates, don’t expect to leave hungry.

Juveniles

Best international selection

Founded by Englishman Tim Johnston, this long-standing 1st arrondissement wine bar has been happily serving thirsty guests since March of 1987. From its early days, Johnston was always fond of wines from Jerez, the Rhône Valley and Beaujolais, as well as Italy, the United States, South America and beyond. In a city so focused on domestic bottles, Juveniles provides a much-appreciated relief to the constant flooding of French wines.

Now spearheaded by Johnston’s daughter, Margaux and her husband, Romain Roudeau, this unmissable wine bar offers one of our favourite cosy atmospheres for drinking wine – which, like its list, provides a well-needed reprieve from the hustle of its neighbourhood. The majority of Juveniles’ ingredients are sourced from local farms, with a smattering of imported pungent cheeses (from Johnston’s native England, of course). Expect pan-fried mushrooms with poached egg, mackerel tartes, homemade terrine and entrecôte de boeuf from the bar’s kitchen, served alongside a variety of organically-produced wines. We raise our hats – and glasses – to Johnston and his family’s impeccable efforts to create a place where gastronomic cultures collide.

Five more Paris wine bars to try

• Le Mary Celeste
• Verre Volé
• Septime la Cave
• Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels
• Clown Bar

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The conical volcano mount Pico dominates the remote, 48km-long Azorean island that takes its name. In fact the highest peak in Portugal (2,531m) makes such an imposing backdrop – not to mention the dazzling azure Atlantic Ocean to the fore – that it’s easy to miss one of the Azores’ most ambitious wine tourism projects.

The Azores Wine Company opened its minimalist winery, cellar door, restaurant and hotel in 2021. Discreetly clad in black basalt rock, hewn from the lava-bed of mount Pico, the building is almost subsumed within the gentle folds of the rolling volcanic slopes.

It sits surrounded by a chequerboard network of thousands of small walled vineyards, built to protect vines from wind and sea spray, which are known locally as currais. This intricate and distinctive vineyard landscape was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004.

A sense of place

Credit: Francisco Nogueira

The project was founded by winemaker António Maçanita and Filipe Rocha, former director of the Azores School of Tourism & Hospitality. Like the duo’s revolutionary wines, the hotel and restaurant showcase Pico’s volcanic and oceanic terroir with terrific verve, finesse and impeccable attention to detail.

As functional as it is stylish, the building’s naturally sloping roof draws on the vernacular – specifically the island’s vineyard water tanks. It also serves a similar purpose: harvesting around 1,500,000 litres of water per year that can be used to water the vines.

Wine has been produced in Pico since the 15th century. The currais are peppered with a few surviving adegas –  a type of rustic man cave, where locals would eat and drink with friends, not just make wine.

The adega at Azores Wine Company is built on a different scale however, with five sophisticated studio apartments, a two-bedroom apartment, cellar door and restaurant. Still, intimacy is the goal.

Rest and relaxation

Guests are invited to gather around the fire pit in the inner cloister. They can share plates at the open kitchen’s U-shaped dining counter or indulge in six- or seven-course wine pairing menus at the eye-catching boulder-cleft chef’s table.

Each guest room has an ocean vista and its own terrace. Inside, stylish charred-wood finish carpentry echoes the stark black basalt volcanic landscape. Luxurious Burel blankets dial up the warmth, whilst the extra-large beds promise an ultra-comfortable night’s sleep after a day spent hiking up mount Pico.

Other guest activities on offer include walking the island’s heritage trails and wild swimming. The Azores is also one of the world’s top destinations for whale-watching.

Food and wine

Of course the greatest comfort of all is to be found upstairs in the restaurant, where dynamic young couple chef José Diogo and Inês Vasconcelos, who looks after front of house, deftly draw on their experience at top kitchens in Europe and Asia.

The menu makes good use of the rich bounty of fresh, local produce from the Azores archipelago: from the vineyard to the distant pastures of Faial and São Jorge islands and the glittering ocean between.

Moresish caramelised Rainha do Pico butter is served with local bread. Whilst an exquisite amuse bouche of São Jorge cheese crisp is dressed with nasturtium and bonito and pumpkin flakes. Elegantly sauced or garnished catch of the day might include limpets, amber-jack, snapper or lobster tail.

Share small plates at the counter or sample a cheese platter at the cellar door, while you enjoy a rare opportunity to taste the Azores Wine Company’s range: from the entry level Vulcânico label to its miniscule production flagship cuvées and 10-year-old Licoroso.

Wines from Maçanita’s eclectic Fita Preta label from Alentejo are also on offer, while themed wine pairing menus include an innovative ‘Islands’ head-to-head between Portugal, Spain and Italy.

The restaurant and cellar door are open to the public by appointment. For more information, visit antoniomancita.com.

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Chicago has always been on the shortlist of America’s great food cities, and this reputation has become stronger than ever. Much of this has to do with Chicago being
a city made up of many small neighbourhoods. In addition to the local staples of steakhouses and Italian and French restaurants, some of the most innovative dining spots are based on the cuisine of countries such as Mexico, Thailand, Argentina, Vietnam and Nigeria.

That innovation has led to many new smaller restaurants and more imaginative approaches to the dining experience, resulting in far more exciting wine programmes, not only in the trendier dining spots but even with more established restaurants. Wine lists at steakhouses are still dominated by powerful reds from Napa Valley and Bordeaux. Still, a few creative wine directors at these dining rooms now feature lesser-known reds and whites, be they from France, Italian regions like Abruzzo or Campania, or places such as Greece and Georgia.

Another factor in a more diverse wine scene in Chicago today is the emergence of BYOB restaurants – there are more than 150. The largest assortment of these offer sushi and Thai cuisine – perfect for pairing with sparkling wine, aromatic whites or lighter-bodied reds, which are also starting to appear on wine lists by the glass and bottle, as consumers are more comfortable today with these wines.

More wines by the glass are available at a variety of restaurants; Langhe Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir are popular choices, while pizzerie, for too long a haven for cheap wines, now offer complex Italian reds such as Pallagrello Nero and Aglianico as well as premium Italian rosés.

The wine scene in Chicago, once dominated by the usual selections, has become quite happily unpredictable.

Credit: Maggie Nelson

Maple & Ash

Credit: Maple & Ash

8 W Maple Street IL 60610
Dinner only, plus Sunday brunch
Reservations required

When Amy Mundwiler took over as wine director at Maple & Ash, she was challenged to create the best wine list in Chicago. Having assembled more than 2,000 selections, I’d say she met her goal. At this visually stunning steakhouse just off N State Street, you will find the usual Napa Valley Cabernets and classified Bordeaux, but that’s only part of this impressive list. ‘We don’t follow the steakhouse status quo,’ Mundwiler remarks. To that end, there are numerous red and white Burgundies (including several verticals), along with several Alsatian, German and California whites and even nine rosés from around the world, listed by the principal variety – a nice touch.

Italian Village

71 W Monroe Street, IL 60603
Open for lunch and dinner
Reservations are strongly recommended

Owned and managed by the Capitanini family since 1927, Italian Village is a Chicago dining institution that is home to one of the country’s most exhaustive Italian wine lists. Current wine director Jared Gelband inherited an impressive wine programme in 2016 and has since expanded the overall selection to include lesser- known Italian regions, as well as beefing up the French and California categories; there are currently 1,500 labels and more than 13,000 bottles in stock. He loves vertical collections and has amassed multiple entries, including nine vintages of Solaia and 18 different years of Sassicaia; there are also 19 Gaja wines, including five vintages of Sorì Tildìn. Service is impeccable and, overall, pricing is extremely fair.

avec river north

Credit: Brian Willette

141 W Erie Street IL 60654
Dinner from 5pm every evening
Reservations recommended

As many restaurants turn to small plates for their dining selections, wine directors at these locales love to create eclectic lists, some of which are a bit of a mish-mash. That’s undoubtedly not the case at avec river north, where Bret Heiar has assembled a first-class, distinctive wine list with more than 75 selections by the bottle and another 20 by the glass. The selections represent a wine insider’s dream, including lesser-known gems from Jura, Chinon, Portugal, Slovakia and Georgia (a personal favourite of Heiar’s). There are seven orange wines by the bottle, four rosés, and several other wines that pair well with foods such as the mortadella pizza with pickled sweet peppers or roasted salmon with sumac.

Coco Pazzo

Credit: Tom Hyland

300 W Hubbard Street, IL 60654
Dinner only
Reservations strongly recommended

An essential Italian restaurant that opened in 1992, Coco Pazzo offers a 300-bottle list with a clear emphasis on Tuscan wines, and especially Brunello di Montalcino. Wine director Tamra Presley Weiss, who is also the proprietor along with her husband Jack Weiss, has an excellent feel for the robust Tuscan reds favoured by her loyal customers; prices for the Brunellos on her list range from $125 to $900 per bottle. She also has several Barolos listed, along with reds from other Italian regions, while her selection of whites features such gems as Andrea Felici’s Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Large parties of 12 or more are routine here, so Weiss offers 17 magnums and even four double magnums that sell quite well.

Testaccio

Credit: Clayton Hauck

2456 N California Avenue, IL 60647
Dinner only
Reservations required

In 2014 Aldo Zaninotto opened Osteria Langhe, a faithful tribute to the food and wine of Piedmont, and received instant acclaim. Today, this osteria in the Logan Square neighbourhood of Chicago is praised as one of the country’s finest and most authentic Italian restaurants.

Zaninotto continues his love of Italian cuisine with Testaccio, his version of a Roman trattoria. Here the wine list takes in a wider geographical area, with reasonably priced selections from Italian regions including Lazio, Campania, Puglia and Marche. The list also includes a small section called Ancestrale, which features amphora-aged wines from Lazio, Calabria and Sicily, each displaying a distinctive structure and priced at less than $70 per bottle.

Pops for Champagne

601 N State Street, IL 60654
Open mid-afternoon until midnight
Reservations are recommended, but walk-ins welcome

When it comes to Champagne bars in America, Pops for Champagne stands alone. Opened at another location in Chicago by previous owners in 1982, Pops is the oldest wine bar in the US dedicated to Champagne. Wine director Michael Seward, who has been with Pops for 25 years, is as knowledgeable about Champagne as anyone I’ve ever met. They have 170 bottles on the list, with 10 by the glass. If you’re a lover of artisan Champagne, you have multiple options, including such difficult-to-find producers as Suenen and Pertois-Lebrun. There are also cuvées from Jacques Selosse, and even six offerings of Coteaux Champenois.

Oriole

Credit: Oriole

661 W Walnut Street, IL 60661
Dinner only
Reservations are a must and are released on a 90-day rolling calendar

At Oriole, a Michelin two-star located in the West Loop, Emily Rosenfeld has constructed a thorough selection to accompany the tasting menus with an Asian influence. There are more than 25 Champagnes, many priced at $115-$200, while the selection of French whites, including a number from Alsace, Loire and Rhône – and several dozen from Burgundy – is well organised. Italy, Austria and Germany are also well represented with distinctive whites, while the red wine selection covers Bordeaux, Italy, Spain, the US and even Germany, Argentina and Australia; the offerings of Rhône valley reds, in particular, are especially impressive. Finally, the after-dinner wine list, ranging from Brachetto d’Acqui to Boal Madeira, is one of the best you’ll ever encounter.

Pompette

Credit: Reilly Crew

1620 North Damen Avenue, IL 60647
Brunch from 10am-3pm
Dinner from 4pm-9pm
No reservations

Described by the owners as an ‘all day café’, Pompette is one of Chicago’s finest wine bars, open only a few months. It is known for its wine selection and food. Located in the trendy Bucktown neighbourhood on the city’s north side, there are three partners, one of whom worked in the kitchen of the nearby Michelin three-star restaurant Alinea. Small plates are a speciality (the salumi assortment is outstanding), while black sea bass is an excellent main course. As for the wine selection, there are 15 offerings by the glass, divided among wines from France, Italy, Spain and Greece, while there are 50 bottle choices, including several Chenin Blancs from the Loire, along with multiple offerings of Beaujolais. The space itself is attractive, functional and comfortable.

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General release is now open for the latest Decanter Wine Experience; an exclusive seven-day wine tour of Piedmont with Decanter’s Michaela Morris.

Situated in the north west of Italy, Piedmont is home to some of Italy’s most revered wines. It goes without saying that great wine and food go hand-in-hand in this country and even more so in Piedmont, home to iconic old world wines and famous delicacies including white truffles, risotto, cheese, hazelnuts and Piedmontese Beef.

The region benefits from many sun-drenched slopes with favourable aspects, with the protection of the Alps and Apennines, creating perfect conditions for the region’s famed Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto grape varieties.

The monastery of Sacre di San Michele

Morris, who travels regularly to the region to taste and judge its noble wines, will host an intimate group of wine enthusiasts over the course of seven days, providing a comprehensive and enjoyable introduction to the iconic appellation. Private wine tastings will feature special vintages at Michaela’s request in beautiful establishments including the three-Michelin-starred Piazza Duomo in Alba.

This exclusive tour has been carefully curated by Morris to include excursions guests wouldn’t be privy to otherwise. Guests will hear from expert wine makers behind some of the region’s most iconic estates, enjoy a private tour with the former mayor of Barbaresco and even indulge in truffle hunting in the forests of Barolo.

Take a look at the trip brochure to get a better feel for what’s in store.

Piedmont Relais Villa d’Amelia

Due to the exclusivity of this trip, spaces are strictly limited.

DOWNLOAD THE PIEDMONT BROCHURE

BOOK NOW

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More than 20 years after opening their celebrated Bordeaux spa hotel, Les Sources de Caudalie – set within the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte – owners Alice and Jérôme Tourbier decided it was time for a sequel. But for some, the location might have come as a surprise…

The French hoteliers didn’t head to the lauded domaines of Burgundy, or the hallowed vineyards of Champagne. Instead they went to the forests and wetlands of the Sologne, a comparatively unsung corner of the Loire Valley. But as soon as you visit, you’ll understand the magic the couple saw in the place that would become Les Sources de Cheverny.

The 49-room, village-like property is set across the 18th-century former Château de Breuil and a neighbouring farm estate. It’s immersed in a landscape of grasses, woodlands, wetlands and vineyards. The estate’s 45ha are the vision of rural tranquillity – but with the added benefit of sophisticated indulgences, including Michelin starred food, fine wine and a spa.

Chic design

While many hotels successfully combine old with new, Les Sources de Cheverny really does it with aplomb. Polished parquet floors meet contemporary pastel palettes and elegant dried flower installations. Retro farm buildings mesh with Scandi-style mid-century-modern furniture and leafy motifs.

Even if you don’t post on social media, you will find it hard to resist snapping pics of its eye-catching dimensions, including the lobby’s minimalist leather chairs and abstract tapestry, as well as the small chapel.

Choose between 13 rooms in the historic château – if you don’t mind some quirky layouts and atmospherically creaky floors. Or opt for one of the new wood cottages, scattered around a bird-watching lake, by grasses and orchards. The pinnacle? Le Baron Perché, a stilted suite on the lake itself, complete with a private alfresco hot tub and panoramic views.

Relaxed days

Wine and spa: it’s a match made in heaven. Or at least that’s the thinking at the Les Sources hotels. Like its sister property in Bordeaux, Les Sources de Cheverny works with French grape-based brand Caudalie, so treatments feature antioxidant grape extract oils or exfoliating Cabernet grape seeds.

When you aren’t on the massage table, you can be appreciating the spa facilities, largely based out of the château. They include a 23m window-lined indoor pool space and an outdoor barrel hot tub and pool, a short walk away.

Or simply immerse yourself in the rich wilderness of the Sologne. There are farm animals on site: miniature goats, chickens and horses, plus hives with honeybees. Walking trails weave through forest and by vineyard. Or hop on one of the hotel bikes to cycle the 20 minutes into Cheverny village, home to another historic château, designed for touring.

Food and wine

Despite its intimate nature, Les Sources de Cheverny boasts two dining options: Michelin star restaurant Le Favori, headed by chef Frédéric Calmels, and the more casual Auberge. At the latter you’ll enjoy set menus starring local goat’s cheese or roasted pork loin with cabbage – washed down with a strong local wine selection including local Loire favourites Vouvray, Chinon and Menetou-Salon.

But arguably the most exciting local wine is developing in the nearby vineyards. White cuvée La Grand’Vigne is made in conjunction with Philippe Tessier, and new rows of local variety Romorantin (a sibling of Chardonnay) have been planted for increased future production.

A short drive or cycle will bring you to some other interesting wineries. As well as Tessier’s vines, Cour-Cheverny itself is home to biodynamic Domaine des Huards. Further afield in Vouvray, popular Domaine Huet does a range of fabulous Chenin Blanc wines. Meanwhile, family-owned Domaine de la Chevalerie  in Bourgueil produces lively biodynamic Cabernet Franc. You’re spoiled for choice; so come thirsty.

For more information visit www.sources-cheverny.com

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Appropriately, the capital of Chile sits right in the middle of the country, flanked by the Andes and the Chilean coastal range. As such, it often serves merely as a stopover for those who fly into the city on their way to other destinations, such as Easter Island, the Atacama Desert or the Patagonias. However, those who give this bustling, cosmopolitan metropolis a bit more of their time, will discover that Santiago is worthy of a longer stay.

Like many cities, Santiago’s eating out scene suffered during and post-pandemic. Many top restaurants closed permanently or reopened with different menus and chefs. But there are still gems to be found, as the selection below shows.

From the hip foodie neighbourhood of Vitacura and trendy Barrio Italia, to the larger, upscale, gastronomically focused areas of Providencia and Los Condes, wine lovers are rarely further than a 15-minute Uber ride from a good restaurant or wine bar in Santiago.

Chile is blessed with 6,435km of coastline, so it should come as no surprise that there are plenty of seafood-focused restaurants to choose from in Santiago. Meanwhile, close proximity to Peru has loaned a distinct Peruvian flavour to many of its dishes. From ceviche to oysters and shellfish sourced from the chilly waters off the southern coast, pescatarians will find plenty of fresh sea-to-table offerings on local menus.

Top Santiago destinations for wine lovers

Baco

A buzzy, relaxed wine bar and restaurant set in a large space with expansive outdoor patio seating. Service is friendly and unobtrusive, while the vibe allows guests to enjoy themselves without constant interruption from overly attentive service. The wine list features 200-plus bottles and a by-the-glass roster of around 25 regularly rotating selections, sourced from boutique, esoteric and micro producers (Casa Marin, Ungrafted, Calyptra) – plus a few strategically curated French options to complement the restaurant’s blend of Basque-Occitan and Spanish cuisine. The menu features plenty of fish alongside ‘comfort food’ and an excellent choice of French cheeses. Don’t miss the salmon tartare, chipirones (baby squid) a la plancha, angulas (baby eel, a Basque delicacy), grilled merluza (hake) ‘a la Vasca’ or the cassoulet. The results are simple but perfectly executed, with a fantastic selection of small plates and sharing dishes on offer.

• Address: Av. Nueva de Lyon 113, Providencia
• Open: Mon-Sun 12.30pm-11pm

Barrica 94

Located in the Los Trapenses neighbourhood outside the city, this modern wine bar can be found in a high-end outdoor shopping centre. Inside it’s spacious and airy, with a polished bistro vibe, lots of two- and four-top tables and an expansive patio area. The wine selection includes around 15 different by-the-glass options and over 250 bottles with a strong Chilean bias. Expect to find plenty of small, boutique local producers (Viña Garces Silva, Casa Marin, Viña Maturana) in addition to larger or more iconic brands (Undurraga, Odjfell, Montes, De Martino). The menu features a mix of small plates, sharing dishes, entrées and salads. Highlights are the slow-braised short ribs, handmade pasta topped with applewood smoked salmon, and the locos or Chilean ‘abalone’ (actually a species of sea snail) served with homemade mayonnaise and salmon roe.

• Address: Av. José Alcalde Delano 10533, local 1508, Lo Barnechea
• Open: Mon-Sun 1pm-11pm

Bocanáriz

Situated in the upscale, popular neighbourhood of Lastarria in Santiago’s Bellas Artes district, Bocanáriz is a bustling wine bar with indoor and outdoor seating, plus one of the most extensive by-the-glass selections of Chilean wines in the city. Offering a diverse, rotating list of more than 300 bins, the venue also pays homage to the country’s viticulture via a special dining room decorated with portraits of prominent Chilean winemakers. Wines by the glass include selections from up-and-coming producers and special projects from established names (Pedro Parra, Tabali, La Causa del Itata). Trending regions such as Itata and Limarí feature alongside well-known brands from the Maule Valley, Malleco, Maipo and Cachapoal. The menu offers a great mix of small plates, sharing dishes and salads. Be sure to try the ceviches and tartares as well as the bocaditos de papas bravas a la Bocanáriz (the kitchen’s take on patatas bravas).

• Address: José Victorino Lastarria 276
• Open: Mon-Wed 1pm-12am; Thu-Sat 1pm-12.30am

Dondoh

Located in the Nueva Costanera area of the up-and-coming gastronomic mecca of Vitacura, this Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant is known for its signature cocktails, phenomenal raw fish dishes, ‘a la brasa’ grills and beautiful presentation. Standouts include the ceviche and rare fish tartares, smoked chicken, and the aubergine a la brasa with miso-togarashi sauce. Dishes are designed for sharing, and diners can see their food being prepared in the open kitchen, bar and grill area. The wine list is robust, with a selection of more than 100 bins, many of which are available by the glass on request. Chilean labels make up the lion’s share, so look out for boutique names such as Atomo, Garcés Silva and Calyptra alongside larger brands including Emiliana, Concha y Toro, Odjfell, VIK and Montes. Wines from Argentina, Spain, Italy, France and New Zealand are also represented.

• Address: Av. Nueva Costanera 3969, Vitacura
• Open: Mon-Sat 1pm-10pm

El Fogón de Momo

Photo: Gonzalo Guzman / Pexels

Famed for serving the best aged Argentinian beef in Santiago, El Fogón de Momo is an unassuming restaurant in the city’s Los Condes district. Cooked over quebracho charcoal from Argentina – which creates a more consistent and long-burning fire – these premium cuts are mouthwateringly flavourful and melt-in-your-mouth tender. Elsewhere, the menu features relatively simple fare, made with ultra-fresh ingredients: avocado, palm heart and tomato salad, grilled seafood, scalloped or fried potatoes and so on. The wine list is almost exclusively Chilean, with around two dozen bottles and a few options by the glass (primarily affordable, quaffable blends from larger, commercial labels). The more interesting offerings include a good choice of beefy reds including a handful of Carménères, Carignans, Cabernet Sauvignons and Bordeaux blends from the Maipo Valley. It’s usually easy to grab a table for lunch, but dinner reservations are strongly recommended – El Fogón de Momo is an extremely popular spot for local gourmands in the know.

• Address: Condell 806, Providencia
• Open: Mon-Fri 12.30pm-12am; Sat 12.30pm-12.30am; Sun 12.30pm-6pm

La Cava del Barrio

It may be no larger than a master bedroom closet but the shelves of this tiny wine shop in Barrio Italia hold a phenomenal selection of bottles from boutique and under-the-radar producers (Jardinero, Inocente) that you are unlikely to see in larger establishments representing big-name growers and brands. While the shop carries bottles from the likes of Casas del Bosque, De Martino’s Itata project and Bodegas RE, the bias is towards those that farm organically/biodynamically or make natural wines. Manager and sommelier Javier Chandia knows a great deal about Chile’s wineries and winemakers, and is happy to share his knowledge and guidance to help customers select the right bottles to take home.

• Address: Av. Italia 1449, local 2, Providencia
• Open: Tue-Sun 12pm-8pm

La Mar

Photo: Loreno Samponi / Unsplash

If you need a break from wine tasting and fancy a proper Pisco Sour, head down to the hip, foodie district of Vitacura, where the star of the show is La Mar (part of a group owned by celebrated Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio). The bartenders here can produce their own signature versions of the emblematic Peruvian/Chilean cocktail as well as classic traditional mixes. La Mar itself is chic, on-trend and open-plan with floor-to-ceiling windows all round, distinctive turquoise chairs and colourful blackboards advertising food and wine specials; alternatively bag a seat outside if you’re partial to a spot of al fresco people-watching. As the name suggests, the restaurant is renowned for its seafood, with creative riffs on ceviche as the outright winners. Alternatively, you might be tempted by the deep-fried fish with yucca and plantain chips, an anticuchos skewer of grilled octopus on chimichurri potatoes or one of the Japanese fusion ideas (sushi rolls, sashimi etc.). To match the food, there’s a small but respectable list of Chilean and international wines from small and large producers.

• Address: Av. Nueva Costanera 4076, Vitacura
• Open: Mon-Wed 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm; Thu-Sat 1pm-3.30 pm, 8pm-12am; Sun 1pm-4pm

Les Dix Vins

Located in Providencia, just a few minutes’ walk from Baco (see above), Les Dix Vins is a wine bar/shop where it’s not uncommon to be seated next to local Chilean winemakers (many of whom live in Santiago). The menu is a global mixed bag featuring classics such as confit duck alongside a few Asian fusion dishes, salads and French cheese plates. The bar’s diverse wine selection (400+ bins) is split equally between Chile and the ‘rest of the world’ (with France claiming pole position). Larger established brands such as Odjfell, De Martino and VIK are well-represented, while smaller labels include Kofkeche (Malleco). The by-the-glass line-up is more concise, offering around 10 ‘still’ recommendations in addition to one sparkling, a dessert wine and a couple of fortified wines – primarily from larger, established brands such as Miguel Torres and Viña Aquitania. Owner and sommelier Juan Ignacio Pavón is passionate, knowledgeable, and generous with his time – offering customers as little or as much guidance and information as they require.

• Address: Av. Vitacura 2935, local 105, Las Condes
• Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12am (kitchen 1pm-4pm, 6pm-11pm)

Olam

The latest venture from Spanish chef Sergio Barroso (following the permanent closure of 040 Restaurant), Olam was listed in ‘Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants’ in 2022. Barroso, whose experience includes a stint at El Bulli in Spain, runs the restaurant jointly with his Chilean wife Maricarmen, and between them they offer a distinctive dining experience. The simple, serene and casual environment, paired with friendly but quiet and unobtrusive service, allows guests to focus on the food (and each other) without sensory overload. The menu is a love letter to both Chilean seafood and Barroso’s Spanish roots, with the emphasis on top-drawer ingredients. Whether it’s carpaccio of fresh fish topped with creamy aïoli, delicate grilled baby squid with bacalhao (salt cod) pil pil, or rare black oysters from Chiloé garnished with caviar from Patagonia, the execution and flavours are flawless. The drinks list leans heavily towards innovative and natural wines, such as vintage skin-contact whites, orange wines and high-altitude bottles from remote cool-climate areas. Look out for eclectic producers and regions that are just starting to gain attention such as Itata, Chiloé Island and Limarí.

• Address: Carmencita 45, El Golf, Las Condes
• Open: Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

The Santiago Wine Club

Photo: Valeria Boltneva / Pexels

Another fantastic little wine shop, located in the Lastarria neighbourhood of the Bellas Artes district, just a few blocks from Santiago’s iconic Républica Independiente del Pisco (Independent Republic of Pisco) and Bocanáriz wine bar (see above). The wine selection is predominantly Chilean and offers a good mix of small, boutique and/or lesser-known producers (Creole, Garage Wine Company, Tinto de Rulo) alongside larger, high-profile brands such as VIK, Montes and Morande. More importantly, the staff are knowledgeable, passionate and helpful.

• Address: Rosal 386, Barrio Lastarria
• Open: Mon-Sat 11am- 8pm; Sun 12pm-3.30pm

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Healthy hedonists can now savour their wine tours with a dose of wellness thanks to top-class spas in leading wine regions. With products rooted as deeply in their terroir as their vines, made from vine extracts and local ingredients, you can enjoy wine from the outside and the inside.

From 12th-century monasteries to ultra-modern resorts, here are ten destinations that add a dose a wellness to your wine tour or a glass of wine to your wellness retreat.

The pioneers

Credit: MP Morel

Les Sources de Caudalie was the pioneering force of the wine spa concept. Vinothérapie® is at the core of their philosophy. The Cathiard family bought Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Bordeaux in 1990, and opened the Les Sources de Caudalie hotel and spa in 1999, inviting guests to enjoy the French wine country lifestyle.

The hotel takes its name from the range of grape-based cosmetics used in all the treatments, from wine baths to exfoliating massages with fresh grapes. After Bordeaux, they opened Les Sources de Cheverny in the Loire, and have recently purchased hotels in Burgundy and Alsace. Keep an eye out for new wine spa experiences there in 2024.

Architectural masterpiece

Credit: Hotel Marqués de Riscal

Hotel Marqués de Riscal in Rioja, Spain, is also home to a Caudalie spa. This stunning 21st-century masterpiece is the only hotel designed by architect Frank Gehry, a daring concept for a vineyard that traces its history back to the 1800s. Opened in 2006, it became a regional icon in the ‘City of Wine’.

Alongside the grape-based treatments, the spa has a pediluvium, a unique traditional foot bath – a nod to the nearby Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. The hotel is in the perfect location to discover the vineyards of Rioja or to spend two to six days enjoying the completely personalised health cures.

Water into wine

Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena is in Ribera del Duero, another famous Spanish wine region. The five-star hotel and spa is in the spectacular 12th-century Cistercian monastery of Santa María de Valbuena, were the monks once made wine.

Medicinal mineral water from the San Bernardo spring, a 386 metre-deep aquifer, feeds directly into the spa. In the 12th century, this same water was used to irrigate the vineyards. The sodium-, calcium- and sulphate-rich waters are recommended for digestive issues and are also good for the liver – perfectly aligned with a wine region!

Ancient Burgundy

Credit: Spa Holistique Marie de Bourgogne

In the heart of Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, Hôtel Le Cep is a longstanding reference for lovers of the region’s wines. The 16th-century buildings include a unique spa, named Spa Holistique Marie de Bourgogne, after the Duchess of Burgundy who inherited the duchy at just 19 years old.

Treatment products are made from extracts of Pinot Noir, the famous red grape of Burgundy, and blackcurrants, used to make the local Cassis liqueur. It opened in 2016, combining traditional massage and high-tech treatments, winning two titles at the World Luxury Spa Awards in 2019. In 2020, the Ayurvedic Centre opened, bringing ancient yogic treatments to a very modern concept of wellness and offering complete retreat programmes for weary wine tasters.

The Royal Treatment

Credit: Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

If you prefer your wine-based spa treatments with a view, travel to the ultra-modern Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa in the heart of Champagne. Every room in the hotel enjoys the spectacular view of the Montagne de Reims between the towns of Reims and Epernay.

Biologique Recherche products will awaken your natural sparkle. The treatment rooms, fitness centre, wood-lined yoga studio, eucalyptus-infused sauna and mosaic-tiled hammam offer personalised wellness treatments. Swim in the indoor or outdoor pool then sip your Champagne, or freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juice, as you enjoy the view over the vines.

Modern Mendoza

For a very different spa view, travel to the Entre Cielos Wine Hotel & Spa in Mendoza, Argentina, where the stunning snow-capped Andes are the backdrop. Winning the South American ‘Luxury Boutique Spa’ accolade in the 2017 Luxury Spa Awards, the vinotherapy treatments include wine baths, grape-seed body scrubs and massages and the only authentic six-stage traditional hammam in Latin America.

Created from a long-abandoned winery, this modern resort is now at the centre of a working Malbec vineyard. Stay in the futuristic ‘Vineyard Loft’, suspended on stilts above the 3.2-hectare vineyard, where you can enjoy your very own private hot tub for an intimate spa experience.

Immortelle in Corsica

Credit: Camille Moirenc

This Mediterranean island off the south of France is famous for its rugged mountainous landscape and increasingly popular wines. The Domaine de Murtoli is a five-star destination tucked away in the south of the island – a unique collection of 20 beautifully restored 17th-century shepherds’ cottages. The natural vegetal treatment rooms of the beach spa are hidden amongst flower groves. The products use essential oils from these local blooms including the famous ‘immortelle’.

Provencal charm

Credit: La Bastide de Marie – F. Ducout, DR.

An 18th-century Provençal farm in 23ha of vines near the village of Ménerbes is home to La Bastide de Marie. It has typical southern French style inside and out, with alleys of cypress trees, rows of lavender bushes, olive trees and of course vines. Close to the Alps, the Pure Altitude Spa brings the mountains to the vineyard. Products made in their sister spa in the Alps from the mountain edelweiss flower are complemented by local lavender for relaxing massages. During the harvest you can join the team picking the grapes, but all year round you can taste the wines directly in the cellars.

It takes a village

Credit: Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco

In Brunello di Montalcino, Massimo and Chiara Ferragamo have created the 2,000-hectare Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco resort. The 800-year-old borgo village is at its heart – you’ll find the winery of course but also suites and villas, ancient castle ruins, a medieval church, two restaurants, an organic kitchen garden, a cooking school and Italy’s only private golf club. The wellbeing philosophy of the spa connects every aspect of this estate, from the preserved natural environment, to the healthy organic food, local wine and outdoor activities.

It’s also a showcase for Italian chic, as you would expect from the Ferragamo family. The spa uses products made from Tuscan grape pomace with vitamin-rich grape polyphenols. ‘The Divine’, a red wine body ritual includes an exfoliating grape gel and perfumed pomace oil massage and of course, a glass of the house Brunello di Montalcino.

Sleep with Six Senses

The stunning Six Senses in the Douro Valley, Portugal is an estate dating back to 1464 and taking you back in time. Placed high above a curve in the Douro River, the elegant 19th-century mansion, a traditional wine estate with gardens and lakes, is set in vine-covered hills. In its time it was the most fashionable quinta in the Douro Valley. In 2015, Six Senses completely refurbished the property, bringing it back to its former glory and wining the Best Achievement in Design in Virtuoso’s annual ‘Best of the Best’ Awards in 2017. After touring neighbouring vineyards, come back here to rest.

The Sleep experience offers guests the expertise of a Sleep Doctor. Calling on the resources of the spa from yoga nidra, meditation, nutritional advice to gentle exercise, they will curate a personalised programme to improve your sleep quality. Add in the enormous comfy beds, handmade mattresses, temperature regulating pillows, duvets and organic linens and you will sleep like a baby.

Meditate in secret gardens or in your private hot tub. Swim in the indoor pool with garden views, underwater sound therapy and massage jets, or venture outside for forest bathing. An organic herb garden provides ingredients for the spa’s Alchemy Bar, where potions of herbs, salt, grapes and exotic ingredients are individually blended for scrubs and masks. The Nail Bar even offers wine and cheese tastings during the treatment.

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There’s definitely something about lazing in the lap of luxury that makes savouring an elegant Grenache even more delicious… I’m surrounded by vines that wind up and over hills, watching them catch the glow of a setting sun while nibbling homemade fudge and honey biscuits. It’s a Thing of Beauty – as is my Tscharke Barossa Valley red.

While Shiraz is king in the Barossa Valley, Grenache has always shone in the background – ever since the first settlers brought bush vines from Prussia in the 1830s. The locals like to say: ‘Grenache delivers what Pinot promises.’

My magic moment is one of many I’m enjoying at The Louise, a luxury boutique lodge that makes guests feel comfortable and spoiled. It’s a star in one of Australia’s most famous wine regions.

All around the resort is a rich tapestry of colours and textures – vines that stretch to the horizon past gum-studded pockets of Aussie bushland. To the west, sunsets throw orange and purple into the sky. It’s spectacular from the pool.

Credit: George Apostolidis

Local heroes

The Louise also has impressive neighbours. Just across the road is Tscharke Wines and The Protagonist wine bar, plus Seppeltsfield Road Distillers (for a sneaky G&T).

Torbreck Vintners and David Franz Cellardoor are around the corner. While along palm-lined Seppeltsfield Road, past Two Hands, Izway and Hentley Farm is historic Seppeltsfield.

If it’s a famous Penfolds Grange or Henschke Hill of Grace that has drawn you to the Barossa, they are just minutes away.

A stylish stay

Credit: George Apostolidis

The Louise has had a few facelifts in its time, but nothing as dramatic as its latest transformation. The style is southern European with an earthy touch of Tuscany. Now part of the Baillie Lodges and Luxury Lodges of Australia families, it boasts a calming, understated elegance.

Each of the 15 villa-sized suites here offers a complete escape. They’re helped by three private courtyards, one at the entrance, my happy place facing the vines and an outdoor bathroom.

You’ll notice the attention to detail from the already lit fireplace to a minibar/coffee station stocked with local offerings (included in the price). The Louise also has its own brand of beautiful toiletries – and there’s even a TV in the bathroom.

The staff are impeccable. There’s no ‘falling over you’ – that’s just not Australian. But they will make your stay memorable for all the right reasons.

Food and wine

Credit: George Apostolidis

Dinner in Appellation restaurant is a highlight. Executive chef Asher Blackford features kitchen garden picks in a five-course degustation menu. Dishes can be matched with local wines and are served with stories of the producers.

Kingfish ceviche, tapioca saltbush and kimchi beignet snacks start the delicious journey – with no cutlery, ‘because it forces people to relax and lose the pretence’, says Blackford.

Our first feast includes beetroot-wrapped sheep feta then quail, lamb rump and ricotta with rhubarb and honeycomb.

Wine pairings offer a glimpse of the 40 grape varieties found in the Barossa. Our selection included: O’Leary Walker Hurtle Sparkling Pinot Noir-Chardonnay NV; Yelland & Papps Single Vineyard Roussanne; Cirillo Estate 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache Rosato; Izway Mates Aglianico; and David Franz Sticky Botrytis Semillon.

Exclusive experiences

One of the most impressive things about The Louise is its connections. Want to taste 100-year-old tawny from Seppeltsfield – the only winery in the world with premium fortified wines set aside every year since 1878?

How about a private underground cellar tasting at Tscharke or Yalumba – Australia’s oldest family-owned winery? 

You can take the St Hugo & Riedel Glass Masterclass, eat breakfast with kangaroos or make your own perfume at Vasse Virgin. Or you can be chauffeured around with Barossa Bespoke Tours.

All you have to do is ask Louise…

For more information visit  www.thelouise.com.au

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It’s an exciting time to visit Rioja and sample its wines. Beyond the bodegas and the increasing diversity and quality of the wines themselves, the region seems to be seriously waking up to wine tourism.

There has been a flurry of openings in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, with more to come soon in Haro, Laguardia and Logroño. Rioja Oriental, however, currently lags behind in terms of appealing accommodation, despite a growing number of producers delivering some of the region’s finest Garnachas.

The house that pioneered modern wine tourism in Rioja was Marqués de Riscal, when it opened its imposing, titanium-clad hotel in 2006. This was a huge boost not only for the venerable brand, but also for Rioja as a whole, which welcomed more than half a million visitors in 2019.

In addition to the splendour of Marqués de Riscal’s 61 rooms and its one-star Michelin restaurant, visitors looking for a gastronomic experience can stay at Echaurren in the picturesque village of Ezcaray. This family-run hotel has a tapas bar and three restaurants (its chef, Francis Paniego, also oversees the menus at Riscal). Echaurren is also a good base for exploring the hiking routes near the Valdezcaray ski resort.

Looking beyond these two options, I’ve chosen 10 of the best places to stay in Rioja right now.

Hotel Aurea Palacio de Correos

Plaza San Agustín 1, Logroño

Credit: Ramón Vaamonde

Built in neo-Baroque style in the centre of Logroño, a stone’s throw from the bustling Calle Laurel, this former convent and central post office languished in disrepair until December 2021, when it became the city’s first five-star hotel.

The 41 contemporary Art Deco-style rooms – including six suites, some of them distributed across two floors – have air conditioning, Bluetooth, USB sockets and quality amenities. All are fitted with comfortable king-size beds, except for a few with twin beds (including one that is adapted for guests with limited mobility).

The outdoor roof terrace overlooking the city is open from 5pm to 11pm and is very popular among locals, but guests keen to sip a zurracapote (a Spanish punch, similar to sangria), or any of the cocktails prepared at the bar, have preferential entry. Other interesting features of the hotel are the massage room and spa with aromatherapy showers, steam and dry saunas, plus a pool with sun loungers and whirlpool bath – popular with weary pilgrims walking the Camino.

Respectful of its past, the decoration of the hotel’s corridors and common areas pays tribute to the men and women who worked at this building – note the collection of lovely old postcards that postal workers used to send during Christmas and New Year as well as the colourful collage in the Matasellos (literally ‘postmark’ in Spanish) restaurant. Serving contemporary local recipes prepared from seasonal ingredients and accompanied by a selection of mostly local wines, Matasellos also offers a delicious weekday menú del día at lunchtime for €25.

Being in the centre of town, Aurea Palacio de Correos is perfect for tourists who want to see the sights, visit the local wineries or explore Logroño’s vast food and wine offering at their own pace. The hotel can also organise a private visit with transfer to the Arizcuren vineyards in Sierra de Yerga (Rioja Oriental), followed by a wine tasting. B&B from €160 per night.

Finca de los Arandinos

Carretera LR-137, Km 4.6, Entrena

Credit: Carlos Glera Castillo

Set in the middle of the countryside in the village of Entrena, this estate belongs to a local wine- growing family and includes a working winery with vineyards and an adjacent hotel with 14 bedrooms and a restaurant (booking required).

The winery (open to visitors) and the airy rooms above it were designed by architect and winemaker Javier Arizcuren using cement, stone and wood. Across the lobby, there are 10 smaller rooms with daring decor by the late fashion designer David Delfín. All rooms have tranquil views of the surrounding vines and olive trees.

These views continue in the naturally lit spa, which is fitted with a sauna, Turkish bath, steam room and pool, along with a very pleasant terrace with sun loungers made from barrel staves. A range of menus – including a five-course tasting menu – are offered in the restaurant.

Being only a 20-minute drive from Logroño, the hotel is a good base for visiting Rioja’s wineries and villages but is also handy if you fancy playing a round of golf at the nearby Sojuela club, discovering the gorges and waterfalls of Sierra de Cameros to the south or treating yourself to a dining experience at the one-star Michelin restaurant Venta Moncalvillo in Daroca de Rioja. B&B from €135 per night.

Casa Robla

Calle Hornos 11, Elvillar

Built in the 18th century, long before phylloxera arrived in Rioja, Casa Robla (an old winery and cellar) was resuced from dereliction by contractor Eduardo Zabala and his wife Cristina Blanco, winemaker at Bodegas Blanco Pérez de Azpillaga in nearby Lantziego.

The couple have respectfully maintained the spirit of the house’s former incarnation: in the current breakfast room, guests can see traces of the old stone lagar and press, which still stands in its original spot. Further into the house, El Cabaret is an old calado (or cellar) where guests are invited to sit and enjoy a glass of Blanco’s wine, just as the former winery owner used to do with his friends.

Casa Robla, which operates as a B&B but doesn’t have a restaurant, sports eight large en-suite, charmingly decorated rooms. There are no tea- or coffee-making facilities, but guests can use the house’s kitchen to make themselves a drink or prepare a plate of cheese or charcuterie.

Powered by renewable energy, this sustainable enterprise employs two local workers and is a welcome addition to Elvillar, a quiet little village off the tourist trail with a couple of bars and a communal swimming pool. Dolmen de la Hechicera, a magical spot set against the Sierra Cantabria mountains, is accessed easily by foot from Casa Robla, while Laguardia, with its many bars and restaurants, is just a 10-minute drive away. B&B from €90 per night.

La Casa Cosme Palacio

Calle San Lázaro 1, Laguardia

Covering 4,000m², this 19th-century former winery outside the city walls of Laguardia is a fantastic place in which to host lavish family celebrations, friendly gatherings or corporate team-building activities. Recently renovated as super-premium accommodation for up to 26 people, the house has four suites and nine double rooms with all sorts of luxuries including a 24-hour butler, electric bikes (for rides through the vineyards), beauty treatments, a fitness centre and an outdoor pool for chilling in the summer.

As it is part of the Entrecanales Domecq e Hijos group, with wineries in several Spanish regions including Rioja, guests staying at the property have access to Bodegas Cosme Palacio next door for private tours of the vineyards and cellar, as well as tastings and dinners with vintage wine pairings. Should guests feel like heading out and exploring a bit more of Rioja, the house also offers a ‘guest manager’ who can design bespoke itineraries or book a table at the best restaurants in the region.

Casa Cosme operates an invitation-only policy when it comes to booking accommodation, so prospective visitors not only need the spending power to stay here but must also send an email to receive an invite. According to the owners, the primary purpose for this request is ‘to understand the guests’ needs so that their stay can be fully adapted to their requirements’. Note that all bookings are for the whole property, regardless of numbers. From €5,000, including all meals (depending on the number of guests and nights).

La Posada de Leza

Calle Mayor 11, Leza

Terri Eichelberger (the owner of a Spanish transport company) and her husband Robert Amox (a winemaker in Sonoma) fell so madly in love with Rioja Alavesa that they decided to open a new chapter in their lives and move to the region permanently. They bought a traditional stone house in the village of Leza and converted it into a warm and welcoming holiday home.

Posada de Leza occupies three floors and fits 12 people comfortably, making it ideal for a family holiday, not least because of its large txoko (dining room), well-stocked kitchen and laundry room, but also because the village’s communal pool and playground are just across the street. Don’t panic: the house is fitted with soundproof windows.

The couple, who pay great attention to detail, are always on hand to advise guests about activities and events in and around Leza. La Posada is also pet-friendly. From €350 per night (plus cleaning fees).

Credit: Maggie Nelson

El Retiro del Obispo

Calle Santa Engracia 3, Laguardia

Credit: James Sturcke

Under the same ownership as La Posada de Leza (see above), El Retiro del Obispo is a boutique hotel within the medieval walls of Laguardia, in a property that once belonged to the local bishop. Lovingly restored and furnished with antiques, soft rich fabrics, linen and Persian rugs from co-owner Robert Amox’s personal collection, the hotel (which opened last year) is rented by floor. Each floor includes a master bedroom with bathroom, plus an additional bedroom – and one has a kitchen too.

This makes it a good option for families, although guests should be aware that this historic building does not have a lift.

The fifth floor is a communal space with a fully equipped kitchen featuring a professional coffee-maker and a terrace with tables and chairs, where guests can prepare meals – including breakfast, which is not served at the hotel. The terrace also boasts impressive panoramic views of the Sierra Cantabria and Rioja vineyards.

Like La Posada, El Retiro is pet-friendly, and the owners are always available to help guests with ideas of what to do in the surrounding area. From €118 per night.

Palacio de Samaniego

Constitución Kalea 12, Samaniego

Credit: Mlevaslot

Aware of the potential of Rioja, the Rothschild family partnered with Vega Sicilia in 2004 to buy vineyards and make the Macán range of wines at its cutting-edge winery in Samaniego. In 2021, its presence in the region was reinforced with an exclusive hotel in an 18th-century palace that also houses 90 beautiful works of art from the private collection of Baroness Ariane de Rothschild.

The hotel’s nine luxury rooms are arranged around the palace’s original stone staircase. Named after a grape variety and decorated with warm colours, top-quality materials and fine fabrics, each room has its own private Wi-Fi, smart TV, tea- and coffee-making facilities, dimmed lights and Spiegelau glassware – to go with the complimentary bottle of wine that guests find in their room on arrival. Visitors can also choose from a menu of pillows and duvets. On the third floor there’s a suite (accessed through a separate entrance), which comes with a fitted kitchen and the option of enjoying an à la carte evening meal.

Tierra y Vino, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, blends French and Basque cuisines and makes use of seasonal, local produce – in fact, chef Bruno Coelho looks after his own vegetable garden next to the Palacio’s car park. The cellar features wines from the Rothschild portfolio plus a handful of local brands.

Health-conscious guests can use the hotel’s gym and electric bikes to ride through Samaniego’s vineyards before relaxing on one of the terraces, fitted with hammocks in summer and heaters and blankets for the winter. They can also enjoy the lap pool in the garden, with views of Sierra Cantabria. The hotel organises vineyard walks with a picnic, as well as kayaking in the Ebro river, horse riding, and hot air balloon trips. B&B from €279 per night.

Santa María Briones

Calle Concepción 37, Briones

This carefully renovated, 16th-century listed manor house is now a boutique hotel oozing warmth from the moment you step onto its charming entrance floor – which was laid by hand, stone by stone.

Its 16 large and airy rooms (with all the requisite mod-cons) are aimed at adults wishing to enjoy a quiet stay complete with views of the vineyards, the Ebro river, the village of Briones and its ancient defensive wall. Parts of the wall can also be seen – and touched – in the hotel’s inner courtyard and lovely communal lounge.

After a good night’s sleep, you can also work out in Santa María’s small gym before indulging in the delicious and refined food at Allegar, the hotel’s restaurant and wine bar. This is open from Wednesday to Sunday lunchtime but if you happen to visit at other times, you can still enjoy a more informal but fully Riojan dining experience in the hotel’s calado. Above this, there is also a private space for work meetings or events.

Santa María Briones is a 15-minute walk from the Vivanco Bodega and Wine Museum, where you can indulge in a tasting and tour of the cellar, as well as taking in the vast wine-themed art collection with works by the likes of Picasso and Warhol; the museum also boasts one of the world’s finest collections of corkscrews. B&B from €235 per night.

Casa Grande by Singular’s Hotels

Calle del Caño 13, Grañón

Set in a heritage-listed 18th-century house that had fallen into disrepair, Casa Grande was brought to life by renowned Catalan industrial designer Francesc Rifé, who used stone, iron and wood to reconstruct and decorate the hotel’s 11 minimalist rooms and backyard.

The rooms feature sleek designer furniture and lighting, underfloor heating and air conditioning, and come with coffee-making facilities, bathrobes and slippers. There are also a couple of tranquil reading lounges for guests, and a restaurant offering dishes made with locally sourced produce, open daily for à la carte breakfasts as well as lunch and evening meals.

The modern interior stands in contrast to the original stone building and the look and feel of Grañón itself – a farming village with a medieval church and quiet narrow streets, some 20 minutes’ drive from Haro and its Barrio de la Estación.

The Camino de Santiago passes through the village. Many travellers stay at the old pilgrims’ hospital next to the church, but anyone wishing to pamper themselves after the long walk will enjoy the comforts of Casa Grande. For golf lovers, the 18-hole course in Cirueña is only 10 minutes away. B&B from €198 per night.

Palacio Condes de Cirac

Calle Carramonte 19B, Villalba

Credit: Lutton Gant

Tucked away on the slopes of the Obarenes mountains, Villalba has traditionally been a source of fruit for some of the leading wineries in Haro, just over two miles away. As this small village has no famous bodegas, it has stayed off the tourist radar until now.

This boutique accommodation – a refurbished manor house built in the 15th century by the family of the conquistador who founded Mendoza in Argentina – has five double bedrooms, three suites and a small outdoor heated swimming pool (open March to October), plus an honesty bar in an adjacent space with a garden. All rooms are air conditioned and come with thoughtful details such as luxury Ezcaray blankets and earplugs.

Rooms can be rented individually all year round on a B&B basis, but the property (with capacity for up to 22 guests) is also available as a whole unit, making it a good option for friends or family groups. The fully equipped kitchen and cosy living room – with table games, a large TV and a super-cool Marshall speaker – are a big bonus, but the kitchen can only be used by groups (although individual guests can store food and drinks in the communal fridge or make themselves a cup of tea or coffee).

Alonso & Pedrajo, a small but dynamic producer with a range of highly original wines, is based in Villalba and is worth a visit. Wendy, the hotel’s friendly owner, is happy to organise visits and any other nearby experiences. B&B from €100 per night (from €600 for the whole property, without breakfast).

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Hills and castles, historic villages and genuine hospitality: Romagna, the eastern part of Emilia-Romagna, is one of Italy’s best kept secrets. The area’s wine scene has experienced a metamorphosis in recent years thanks to research and the ingenious, creative nature of the locals. Alongside the two stars, Sangiovese and Albana, a series of vastly different native varieties is coming to the fore.

Where exactly Romagna begins and Emilia ends is a matter of opinion or, as Italian wine expert Daniele Cernilli puts it in the Vini di Romagna consortium’s book, Romagna, mosaico di vita (Lariana/Civiltà del Bere, 2023), ‘Romagna is a state of mind’.

One way to establish where you are is by following the traditional saying, ‘Ask for a drink and if you’re given water, you’re in Emilia; if it’s wine, you’re in Romagna.’

From the winemaking point of view, borders are clear: the Romagna DOC area starts just east of Bologna, stretching to Rimini on the Adriatic coast. It’s divided into 16 subzones, each represented by a castle, most of which can be visited. A subzone mentioned on a wine’s label typically marks the peak of quality.

My perfect day

Morning

Credit: Trerè agriturismo

Wake up to birdsong in the spa suite surrounded by vines at the Trerè agriturismo near Faenza and, after an early swim, enjoy breakfast on the farmhouse veranda with local produce and home-grown cherries. Buy some bottles before setting off a few kilometres into the hills at Oriolo dei Fichi for a scenic walk through vineyards. Aim to reach Locanda della Fortuna for a delicious lunch in the atmospheric 16th century farmhouse or its surrounding garden. Opt for homemade pasta or risotto with asparagus and hazelnuts paired with wines from the family’s Leone Conti winery nearby, perhaps Progetto 1, a classic dry white Albana.

Afternoon

View from Fattoria Nicolucci. Credit: Fattoria Nicolucci

After lunch, stroll down the hill to see Oriolo’s distinctive hexagonal tower (open weekends) then continue the day nearby at Fattoria Zerbina for a thematic Albana tasting including exquisite passito.

Head east (36km) for the afternoon in Predappio Alta, with a tour of historic Fattoria Nicolucci and a tasting of its memorable Sangiovese and other wines, taking in the views from the castle ruins.

Evening

Credit: Ca’ de Bè

Carry on east to Bertinoro, the village famed for its hospitality and known as the balcony of Romagna for its sweeping panoramas. Admire the column with a dozen rings, devised to resolve disputes about who would have the pleasure of hosting visitors – the family corresponding to the ring where the visitor chose to tie their horse had the honour. Dine on tasty dishes such as gnocchi with rabbit and cardoons or simple piadina flatbread with a platter and local wine on the terrace at Ca’ de Bè.

After dinner, make your way to Villa Venti near medieval Longiano. Relax on the attractive terrace with the day’s last glass, perhaps an amphora-vinified Centesimino, and spend the night in one of two simple, attractive rooms decorated with traditional print fabrics and natural wood bedheads made from cognac barrels.

Romagna’s white wines

With DOCG status since 1987 (Italy’s first white DOCG) and a variety grown here since ancient times, Albana is an extraordinarily versatile grape combining acidity, strength and structure. It has experienced a recent upsurge in popularity, and while there are many delicious dry versions perfect with typical cheese or meat-filled cappelletti pasta or baked fish, wineries are achieving outstanding results with other styles of Albana too.

Producers making vibrant traditional-method Albana spumante include Branchini, located near the delightful village of Dozza (see box, below) and with an interesting display of country-life heirlooms. Nearby at Imola (of motor-racing fame), Fattoria Monticino Rosso makes other interpretations including Codronchio, a startling, complex dry Albana made with botrytised grapes from old vines. Also at Imola, Tre Monti makes several superb Albanas, including a lemon-fresh pét-nat and award-winning amphora wine, Vitalba.

Enthusiastic young producer, Jacopo Giovannini uses Georgian amphorae for Albana too, while at Tenuta Masselina, which has a country life museum, the terracotta vessels are from Faenza, celebrated for its ceramics with a dedicated museum and numerous artisan workshops.

Albana is perhaps best known for its exquisite passito, however, and Cristina Geminiani of Fattoria Zerbina is a passionate expert. Her world-class Scacco Matto, made in good years only from botrytised grapes, is a kaleidoscope of saffron, honey, apricot and candied citrus infused with freshness.

Another historic local white variety that’s rocketing to popularity is semi-aromatic Famoso. Adopt a row of Famoso vines, or picnic among them at Tenuta Casali, where the admirable range also includes a lime-fresh Trebbiano from old vines.

Romagna’s red wines

On the red front, the appealing Oriolo subzone near Faenza is home to smooth, elegant Centesimino. A phylloxera survivor given the nickname of its saviour, known for his penny-pinching ways, Centesimino thrives in this microclimate at wineries including Cantina San Biagio Vecchio, where it was first planted, and La Sabbiona, where versions include a seductive passito, perfect with dark chocolate.

Another local red grape, thick-skinned Longanesi, makes robust wines that vary between vintages but are always potent and intense. While the variety takes the surname of its 1950s discoverer, the wine takes his nickname: Bursôn. The original vine still grows on its oak-tree host at Longanesi.

Sangiovese is the undisputed king of Romagna’s reds, and despite being Italy’s most planted grape, the local Sangiovese has real identity. You can find it in a variety of styles, either in purezza or in blends, such as Tauleto (90% Sangiovese, 10% Longanesi), a top wine from the sleek Umberto Cesari winery which pioneered Sangiovese in the hills nearest Bologna in the 1960s. At Palazzona di Maggio, the Sangiovese offering includes a rosé spumante.

While the claim by Santarcangelo, an attractive hill-town on Monte Giove near Rimini, of being the birthplace of Sangiovese (from ‘sangue di Giove’, or blood of Jove) can be dismissed as quaint folklore, the variety has been here for centuries: Predappio, a subzone famed for complex, ageworthy Sangiovese, already had established winemaking regulations by 1383.

A visit to Fattoria Nicolucci provides a taste of history together with Predappio Sangiovese: fourth-generation Alessandro Nicolucci has keys to the castle next to his winery. His Vigna del Generale Sangiovese cru is memorable, and the views are stunning.

The Pandolfa Villa. Credit: Pandolfa

Consultant winemaker, Francesco Bordini helps many producers bring out the truest expression of their terroir and reorganise vineyards, such as those at Pandolfa, another Predappio winery rich in history, where vines growing on steep slopes around a grand 18th century villa include a plot dedicated to their Noelia Ricci project. Bordini also helped Elisa Baraghini get started, planting Sangiovese clones at the tiny Castello Montesasso, where she moved to from Milan after inheriting the historic stone-built property with breathtaking views.

Bordini has rented a plot of old vines in Predappio Alta for his own latest Sangiovese. His winery, Villa Papiano is at Modigliana, another prime subzone where altitudes of 500m bring incredible elegance to the wines. ‘I’ve chosen the two zones I love most to express myself through my own wines,’ he says.

The Romagna wine world is going through an exciting time, and the mostly small, family-run wineries provide visitors with famously warm hospitality. Wine-themed events, include the itinerant summertime Tramonto DiVino, Ravenna’s GiovinBacco in October, and Mercato dei vini dei vignaioli indipendenti in November (25-27 Nov in 2023, in Bologna), which sees hundreds of producers pouring their wines for thousands of visitors.

Your Romagna address book

Where to stay

Trerè
A charming farmhouse surrounded by vines, offering comfortable rooms, apartments and an independent villa. The décor includes local ceramics and there’s an open-air pool and restaurant (Thursday-Sunday) serving traditional dishes and homemade pasta, with the estate’s own excellent wines.

Tenuta Mara
Art is everywhere, with bold contemporary sculptures among the vines which grow to a soundtrack of Mozart, while wines age to Gregorian chants at this biodynamic estate with sea views. Accommodation is in four well-equipped bedrooms and there’s a spa, gym and year-round pool.

Borgo Condé
An attractive luxury resort at the Condé winery near Predappio. Rooms, some in villas around the estate, are beautifully finished and facilities include vineyard trails and barefooting, a wine therapy spa, indoor and outdoor pools, and a choice of dining.

Where to eat

La Vecia Cantena d’la Prè
A historic trattoria with a winemaking museum in the cellars below, in Predappio Alta. The region’s speciality piadina flatbread, made here with Sangiovese in the dough, is perfect with local cave-aged cheeses and charcuterie.

La Baita
A Slow Food-endorsed trattoria in Faenza with a country kitchen-style deli and extensive wine selection. Wood décor and warm colours set the atmosphere for genuine home cooking such as Mora Romagnola pork, oxtail stew and stuffed artichokes.

Ca’ de Bè
The panoramic views from the terrace here more than justify Bertinoro’s fame as the balcony of Romagna. Choose from the list of exclusively Romagna-made wines to pair with typical dishes such as filled cappelletti pasta or Sangiovese-braised beef.

What to do

Enoteca Regionale Emilia-Romagna
The regional wine collection, housed in the atmospheric cellars of Dozza castle, is the place to try and buy the best Emilia-Romagna wines. While here, tour the castle, explore Dozza village – decorated with over 100 murals – and walk the Sentiero del Vino footpath.

Ravenna
The 5-6th century mosaics from the city’s glorious period as capital of the Western Roman, then Byzantine, empires are truly stunning. Other sights include Dante’s tomb, and there’s a good covered market. Head to Ca’ de Vèn for Romagna wines and traditional dishes.

Brisighella olive oil
Picturesque Brisighella boasts Italy’s first DOP olive oil; tastings are available and numerous foodie events are held here. The olive-themed walking trail passes the medieval castle and six-hour clock tower. Many Romagna wineries produce their own oil; at Palazzo di Varignana it’s the speciality.

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Central Virginia boasts America’s original winemaking history. Thomas Jefferson famously acquired vineyards and attempted at-home winemaking at Monticello during the late 18th century. The region is ripe with vineyards often right next to former battlefields and other places of significance to American history.

Beyond its rich history, Central Virginia offers an ideal wine getaway for nearly any traveller. For urban dwellers looking for a bit of action, the ‘Downtown Mall’ of Charlottesville offers a plethora of great places to eat and drink. Travellers looking to experience the outdoors will enjoy the area’s surrounding mountain landscapes – perfect for hiking, skiing or cycling.

History buffs will take delight in the nearby Civil and Revolutionary War sites, period-inspired festivals, and more.

From a viticultural perspective, it’s no surprise why grape growing has taken off in Virginia, particularly within Central Virginia. The eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains create ample hills and valleys dominated by granite-based clay soils – perfect for cultivating a slew of both vinifera and hybrid varieties.

A long, 200-day growing season allows the fruit to reach peak phenolic maturity, while large diurnal temperature swings keep acidity in the berries fresh and abundant.

For those looking to enjoy the best that Central Virginia’s winemaking scene has to offer, we recommend posting up in downtown Charlottesville as a home base. You can use the city’s central location as a jumping off point. Renting a car will offer the most affordable and accessible means of transportation, though hiring a driver for the day (we recommend Albemarle Limousine Service) offers a hassle-free and safe way to enjoy wine tastings.

Best of all, Central Virginia’s moderate daytime temperatures make visiting anytime of year pleasant, though we find the most exciting times to be around bud-break (spring) and harvest (late September through October).

A tasting tour

Aerial view of Early Mountain Vineyards. Credit: Early Mountain Vineyards

With over 300 wineries across the state, there’s certainly no shortage of places to go when planning a wine-focused trip to Virginia. As with any region, we recommend going in with a loose plan and a few must-hit places – leaving some flexibility for spontaneity. However, no trip to Virginia wine country is complete without a visit to Early Mountain Vineyards.

Although relatively young, this iconic Madison-based winery has been making waves across both viticulture and vinification realms since its early days in 2005. Now spearheaded by forward-thinking winemaker Maya Hood White, this unmissable estate is putting out some of Virginia’s most exciting and thoughtfully-crafted wines.

Pours range from experimental pét-nats to Bordeaux-inspired blends and beyond. Stay for lunch, grab a seat on the expansive outdoor patio, or simply post up at the tasting room counter and get lost in conversation with the winery’s knowledgeable team.

After a morning spent at Early Mountain Vineyards, hitting Hark Vineyards (approx. 25-min drive) is an excellent way to spend some time before returning to downtown Charlottesville. Founded by Aaron and Candice Hark just a few years back, this new-to-the-scene winery specialises in affordable, easy-drinking wines that are perfect for popping on the large outdoor space and enjoying with a view. Be sure to sample a few of winemaker Jake Busching’s private label wines while on site. 

Located closer to Charlottesville is Stinson Vineyards, an equally unmissable stop for wine lovers of all palate preferences and knowledge levels. Tucked away in the Blue Ridge Mountains, this family-owned estate is spearheaded by husband-and-wife team Rachel and Nathan.

Longtime lovers of French wines – and inspired by the great ‘garagiste’ wines of France – the couple focuses on Bordeaux and Loire Valley grape varieties. Stinson  implements generous whole cluster use and sur-lie ageing in the cellar, often experimenting with skin-contact vinification and a variety of ageing vessels (concrete, amphora, etc.).

It’s impossible to talk about Virginia’s winemaking scene without mentioning Michael Shaps – the unofficial godfather of modern day vinification across the state. After enrolling in oenology school in Beaune in 1990, Shaps worked harvests in Puligny-Montrachet before moving to Virginia to take a role at Jefferson Vineyards in 1995. He went on to launch a number of Virginia-based brands (including King Family Vineyards) and officially opened his own winemaking operation in the heart of Meursault in 2004.

Three years later, in 2007, Shaps founded Virginia’s Michael Shaps Wineworks. In addition to crafting his own thoughtfully-made wines (including his noteworthy varietal Viognier and Petit Manseng), Shaps now services numerous clients at his custom crush facility.

Situated just 15 minutes from downtown Charlottesville is King Family Vineyards.  A family-owned and operated winery located in the heart of the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. After producing just 480 cases during its inaugural 2000 vintage, today, King Family Vineyards crafts over 10,000 cases of wine annually.

Overseen by Rhône-born winemaker Matthieu Finot, King specialises in high-quality wines which highlight the unique growing sites and micro-terroirs of Virginia’s Monticello AVA. (Note: Finot recently began his own eponymous side project, Domaine Finot, which is an absolute must-try when in town.) 

Finish off the journey with a 15 minute drive west to Veritas. Enjoy a bottle of wine in the stunning, fireplace-equipped tasting room. The winery’s vintage, traditional-method sparkling may just be the best bottle of bubbles coming out of Virginia today.

Stinson Vineyards. Credit: www.visitcharlottesville.org

Your Charlottesville address book: Where to eat, drink and visit

Charlottesville‘s Downtown Mall. Credit: www.visitcharlottesville.org

Eat

Tavern & Grocery  The building was home to the first African American-owned business in Charlottesville and is now a cosy, rustic venue known for contemporary American cuisine.

Café Frank Classic French restaurant and apéritif joint in downtown Charlottesville serving up homemade cuisine and tasty drinks.

The Nook Long-standing diner establishment with Charlottesville roots dating back to the 1950s, known for traditional breakfast favourites, cosy indoor booths and ample sidewalk seating.

Mockingbird Newly reopened restaurant in the Belmont neighbourhood beloved for hearty, belly-filling southern fare.

The Southern Crescent Belmont-based, family-owned restaurant meshing traditional fare from Louisiana, the Caribbean and other parts of the American south. Excellent bar programme (known for its tropical tiki cocktails) and tons of outdoor seating. 

Oakheart Social Located just outside of the Downtown Mall, this bustling, modern eatery is known for its New American-inspired fare, craft cocktails and spacious outdoor terrace. Reservations recommended.

Little Star Modern American meets Mexican meets Spanish in the best possible way at this world-class eatery; bar space is small yet fierce, reservations recommended.

Drink

Mudhouse Coffee Roasters Award-winning coffee shop beloved by locals known for responsibly-sourced beans and a variety of caffeinated beverages.

Lightwell Survey Co-founded by Ben Jordan (formerly of Early Mountain Vineyards), this self-proclaimed ‘unique, new era’ winery is crafting thoughtful, experimental wines from a handful of off-the-beaten path varieties.

Lost Saint Charming speakeasy bar located in the basement of Tavern & Grocery – open Thursday to Sunday. 

Visit

Ix Art Park Non-profit art organisation with regular immersive exhibitions – a place meant to inspire and support art education for all. Don’t miss the outdoor farmers’ market on Saturdays. 

Carter Mountain Orchard  Local mountainside orchard just outside of downtown Charlottesville known for fruit picking, a country store and a variety of local produce and baked goods (as well as breathtaking views).

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For the UK’s third edition of the Star Wine List of the Year Awards, held in partnership with trade title The Buyer, a jury of top sommeliers was brought together to judge over 100 wine lists from restaurants and bars across the UK.

Spanning 12 categories, the winning establishments [see below] were picked by consultant sommelier and wine director at Ten Trinity Square Jan Konetzki, Piotr Petras MS, Ronan Sayburn MS and Ruth Spivey, wine consultant and Star Wine List’s UK Ambassador.

‘In the last two decades things have changed in the UK. Wine is not only the add-on to the fancy meal of the celebrity chef; wine has become the main feature of many restaurants and bars, creating destination places, and a real reason to go somewhere now,’ said Konetzki.

The UK’s wine-focused restaurants, bars and hotels leave wine lovers spoilt for choice when it comes to seeking out great bottles alongside top quality food.

Sayburn, who is also co-chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards, said: ‘Historically the UK hasn’t made a lot of its own wine. Because of that, wine merchants had to travel all over the world, buying wines to bring in. So the UK wine trade has been strong for hundreds of years. That’s reflected in the wine lists you find in UK restaurants nowadays. Sommeliers have the pick of the best of the best.’

Gareth Ferreira MS, beverage director at Core by Clare Smyth, collects the Grand Prix award. Ruth Spivey says of the list: ‘While grand in length, it still feels alive and dynamic. Arguably unimprovable!’ Credit: Thomas Skovsende.

The winners:

About Star Wine List

Started in 2017, Star Wine List is an online guide to the best wine bars and restaurants in 36 countries worldwide, ‘from bistros to fine dining, natural to classical’ according to Star Wine List founder Krister Bengtsson. The Star Wine List Awards were initiated shortly after, as a way to celebrate great wine restaurants, judged by a top sommelier jury. The awards take place in Denmark, Norway, Finland, South Africa, Australia, New York, Germany, Sweden, Singapore and the UK.

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Fifteen years ago, I arrived late with a couple of friends to the village of Tain l’Hermitage. It was dark, it was cold, we were hungry. We left our hotel on foot to find something to eat. It was only 9.30pm, but a couple of brasseries in the main square were already closing.

There was one place that was still busy, a local pizza joint. We asked the waitress if we could order some food. She asked the chef. He said no, it was 9.45pm, far too late. But she was still serving desserts, she said, if we wanted one? My dinner that night was ice cream, chocolate mousse and a crème brûlée.

It used to amaze me that the home of Hermitage, and the Northern Rhône more generally, was so uninterested in tourism. A lot has changed since then.

It’s surprising that any kind of tourism took so long to establish itself here – after all, these steep, terraced vineyards are some of the most dramatic in the world. It’s an unspoilt landscape that attracts a lot of walkers, cyclists and water sports enthusiasts.

Most of the other main draws are wine-related: walking tours through the vineyards, winery visits, and plenty of places to eat and drink to balance out all that healthy daytime activity.

It might be possible to get a meal after 9.30pm these days, but it’s still important to do your research before arriving. Most wineries are small, family-run domaines and though most will be happy to welcome visitors, you should always book in advance. It will probably be the owner or their family that receive you personally – no polished marketing droids here.

A few tips. Make sure you get directions, as some can be hard to find – and French addresses can be exasperatingly vague. It might also be worth checking what languages they speak if you don’t speak French. And if possible, leave the kids at home; for a four-year-old, a winery is a uniquely intoxicating blend of the boring and the hazardous.

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu

The two small towns to know at the northmost end of the region are Ampuis, at the heart of Côte-Rôtie, and Condrieu.

You could choose either as a base, but there are more eating options in Ampuis: Le Bistrot de Serine and Epicurieux are both informal spots with good simple food and great wine selections.

If you’re in the mood for fine dining, a different option is Le Beau Rivage in Condrieu. A 15-minute drive away on the opposite bank of the river is Domaine de Clairefontaine – the best option for both food and lodging.

I can’t imagine that many visitors to this part of the world aren’t wine lovers – there’s not an awful lot else to do. But seeing as you are, you’ll be in seventh heaven. The following domaines are easy to locate in either Ampuis or Condrieu, and make excellent wines from both appellations: Domaine Georges Vernay, Domaine Xavier Gérard, Domaine Stéphane Ogier, Domaine Barge and Domaine Rémi Niero.

Domaine Georges Vernay

Tain l’Hermitage and Tournon

These two towns are on either side of the Rhône, connected by bridge. Tournon is slightly larger and perhaps prettier, but Tain has more accommodation and restaurant options – both make a good base to explore the Northern Rhône.

The village of Tain, squashed between the river and the hill of Hermitage itself, has spruced itself up immeasurably over the past 15 years. Jaboulet and Ferraton have opened reliable brasseries. My favourite wine bar is Le Bateau Ivre, which has a great list of Rhône wines.

More formal options include the unmissable Les Mangevins, a husband-and-wife team offering fresh, precise cooking in an elegant room on a quiet backstreet. Another good option is Marius Bistrot in Chapoutier’s newly-refurbished hotel, Fac & Spera. It’s also a good option for somewhere to stay, as is Hôtel Les 2 Coteaux.

Chapoutier and Cave de Tain both have boutiques, where you can plan a variety of tours or walks around the vineyards. And Delas has just opened an architecturally impressive new winery and visitor centre.

Cave de Tain Hermitage

If you’re looking for a wine shop, try Le Cave aux 5 Sens. It’s in a commercial park next to a supermarket, so don’t expect old-world charm; but you can expect an excellent selection of wines. For more personal service and a tighter range, visit La Compagnie de l’Hermitage.

Over the river in Tournon, if you’re looking for a chic, boutique hotel, Hotel de la Villeon is a fine place to stay. To eat, try Le Cerisier, which has a comfortable but contemporary feel.

Cornas and Saint-Péray 

These neighbouring villages are smaller than Tain and Tournon, but certainly worth a day trip.

On the way from Tournon, go via the village of Mauves, home to an inordinate number of excellent producers, including Domaine Coursodon, Domaine Marsanne, Domaine Bernard Gripa, Domaine Gonon and Domaine Jean-Louis Chave.

Jean-Louis Chave vineyards-credit-Nanda-Gonzague

You’ll also drive past the village of La Roche de Glun which inhabits a small island in the Rhône River. Here you’ll find the restaurant and wine shop Auberge Monnet, which has a good selection of natural wines within their broader range.

Between Cornas and Saint-Péray, the latter is the prettier. Take a walk up to the ruined Château de Crussol and grab a spot of lunch at bistrot La Ruche – its list of Cornas and Saint-Péray is second to none.

There aren’t many wineries to visit in Saint-Péray, but Domaine Rémy Nodin and Domaine du Tunnel are both in the village.

In Cornas there are plenty; try Domaine Alain Voge, Domaine du Coulet, Domaine A&E Verset – perhaps even Domaine Clape if you’re lucky.

When to visit

The best time to visit is between April and July, when you’re likely to get good weather. In August many producers will be on holiday, and in September they’ll be concentrating on the new vintage. October can be rainy.

Getting there 

Grenoble Isère Airport is an hour’s drive from both Ampuis and Tain L’Hermitage. Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport is an hour’s drive from Ampuis and an hour and a half from Tain.

Join Matt Walls on the Decanter Wine Experience Rhone Valley Wine Tour this June.

Book now

Decanter Wine Experiences are arranged in connection with Academic Travel Abroad Inc. For full terms and conditions, see here.

Rhône Valley Wine Tour with Matt Walls

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Our promotional Valentine’s offer is nearly up and there are still a few spaces left. If you’re someone who loves a good deal, great wine, travel and food then we recommend you act quickly. We’re offering $500 off all bookings on our Rhône Valley Wine Tour made this week between 13-18 February.

If food and wine are your one true love, then this holiday was designed for you. The itinerary boasts a perfect balance of fine wine tastings, private tours and picnics in the vineyards as everyone discovers emerging new wineries alongside iconic ones. Guests will also enjoy Michelin star meals and enjoy local finds set against the beautiful backdrop of the Rhône. 

Decanter’s Rhône expert, Matt Walls will be hosting the tour and providing exclusive, closed-door access that you wouldn’t get elsewhere. Walls will share his knowledge and expertise of the region, pull the best vintages from the shelves and introduce guests to the expert winemakers behind some iconic labels. 

Individuals and couples who book this week will also be entered into a prize draw to win two tickets to a Decanter Fine Wine Encounter of their choice and a Decanter Premium subscription. 

With limited places left, it’s first come first served. Discount is applied at checkout. 

Get a feel for what’s in store by downloading the trip brochure here.

BOOK NOW

Terms & Conditions:
Offer applies to all bookings made between 13-18 February 2023. All guests who book within this window will be entered into a draw to win two tickets to a Decanter Fine Wine Encounter 2023 of their choice and a Decanter Premium subscription. Does not include travel or accommodation. Winner will be drawn at random on 22 February 2023. 

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Located in southwest Switzerland, Verbier is best known as a luxury skiing destination – but there’s much more on offer than its famous après-ski. Indulgent restaurants with incredible wine lists, plus dazzling vineyards, make it an under-the-radar destination for wine lovers.

Get to know Verbier

At 1,500m altitude, the Swiss village of Verbier can be found in the northern part of the Val de Bagnes area, on the east side of the valley, facing the Grand Combin massif.

As with many ski villages, summers in Verbier are cool, and winters rarely rise above 1°C.

Verbier’s history stretches far beyond 1946, when its first ski lift was installed. The ruins of its castle denote an ancient history that is not even documented in local archives. Remains of a moat and crumbling churches provide a contrast against the picturesque wooden chalets and luxury boutiques.

Verbier: perfect for wine lovers. Credit: Hannah Crosbie.

Must-visit destinations for wine lovers in and around Verbier:

67 Pall Mall Verbier

Much of the frozen road from Geneva to Verbier is lined with vines. Intimate chalets can be glimpsed here and there – the perfect place for bon vivants to curl up with a glass of something decadent. It’s little wonder why London-based private members club 67 Pall Mall picked Verbier as its Swiss outpost.

67 Pall Mall Verbier first opened its doors in 2021, jetting Lucy Meza Ortega from its London club to be the new location’s head sommelier. Boasting 1,700 different wines, and 350 cuvées  by the glass, the club has the biggest international wine list in Verbier. Non-members can also enjoy 58 wines by the glass in the downstairs wine bar.

While there’s certainly no shortage of mature classic wines to satisfy the distinguished palate (such as the 1989 Clos du Marquis St-Julien, which seduces the nose and reverberates on the palate), there is also a decided focus on Swiss wines. Try an incredibly fresh Syrah from the nearby region of Valais, or a sensational sparkling Chasselas. Ortega’s king-size wine list – and the expertise with which she navigates it for her guests – is truly impressive. But if you’d rather get high off your own supply, there’s a multitude of storage options for collectors to enjoy their own wines.

Rue de Médran 15, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland

67 Pall Mall Verbier. Credit: Hannah Crosbie.

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Hôtel de Verbier

Situated in the very heart of the Place Centrale, the long history of Hôtel de Verbier is tied up with the history of Verbier itself. Built in 1947, it is the oldest family-owned hotel still in operation and is an ideal place to base yourself during your visit. Rooms are decorated with natural textures of stone and wood, with views of the Grand Combin massif. Plus, a downstairs gym and spa will ensure your legs get some well-deserved rest after a day on the slopes.

The hotel’s La Nonna restaurant serves as the breakfast eatery as well as the evening restaurant, boasting a rather delicious wine list. As you’d expect from the name, La Nonna’s wine list champions a range of Italian wines, but also offers a variety of Swiss wines, too.

Place Centrale 2, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland

Hotel de Verbier’s spa facilities. Credit: Hotel de Verbier.

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Domaine La Colombe

Although Verbier itself has few vines of its own, an hour and a half drive will get you to Féchy, a village nestled in the appellation of La Côte. As it may have become apparent, the Swiss are huge fans of their own wines. In fact, 98% of Swiss wine is drunk within the borders, meaning only 2% is exported elsewhere.

Located on the hills that sweep down towards Lake Geneva, Domaine La Colombe welcomes guests for tasting experiences in its rustic tasting room. Whether you’d like simply an introduction to Swiss wines, or you’d prefer to get nerdy about single-vineyard expressions, there’s something to suit every palate. My advice? Ask nicely for an extra generous pour of the Marchandes Grand Cru and make some room in your bag for it – you’re going to fall in love. Check online for opening times.

Route du Monastère 1, 1173 Féchy, Switzerland

Credit: Domaine La Colombe.

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Chez Dany

A fantastic view reveals itself as you walk out of the piny forest and up towards the wooden chalet of Chez Dany, perched at the top of a mountain piste (accessed via a short ski, or a perilous walk). The sunset from Chez Dany is truly arresting, best enjoyed with garlicky snails, croûte jambon and a glass of Laurent-Perrier’s La Cuvée.

Hameau de Clambin 10, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland

Credit: Chez Dany.

Verbier: helpful hints

As Verbier is a ski resort, there are many businesses that choose to open only during the ski season, which normally runs from around late November to late April.

However, as its summer cultural programme expands, Verbier is becoming a village that can be enjoyed year-round. As the snow melts, you’re met with a dazzling green landscape, dotted with colourful wildflowers.

For those looking to stop at wineries, keep in mind that harvest peaks in October, so an impromptu visit may be more welcome earlier in the year. Additionally, many establishments are likely to be closed in the off-season, so make sure you check online before visiting.

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With its complex history and culture, generally fine weather, wide variety of landscapes, and top-quality food and wines, it’s no surprise that Spain is one of the world’s top travel destinations. But given such a range of choice, especially for the wine-loving traveller, decisions need to be made when planning a trip.

Is it better to travel around and see as many different places as possible? Or should you explore just one or two places in sufficient depth to feel that you really get to know them? Somewhere in between is the art of the day trip, choosing a place as your base of operations to explore properly, while supplementing your visit with excursions to other nearby locations.

Here we’ve put together a selection of day trips from popular destinations. They include the unique Basque country appeal of Bilbao; cosmopolitan Barcelona and Madrid with their magnificent cityscapes, architecture and culture; and the southern charms of sunny Seville and coastal Málaga. Using any of these as a base, you can head out to explore the neighbouring towns and countryside and, of course, sample the delights of a range of local cuisines and wines in some of the country’s principal wine regions.

For some of the day-trip destinations you can choose between travelling by public transport or hiring a car for a self-guided experience. Although Spain is very well connected, with a good network of train and bus routes, few producers have wineries within towns or cities, so when choosing public transport a combination of either bus and train, with the occasional taxi ride, may be required. A guided day tour can eliminate the stress of coordinating train and bus schedules, or logistics of car hire, route planning and parking – though for some this is all part of the adventure. Whichever option you choose, booking winery visits, activities and restaurants in advance is essential.

Bilbao

Bakio – Bodega Doniene Gorrondona – San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – Bermeo

The precipitous winding steps on San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, near Bakio. Credit: Andrea Comi / Getty Images

We start our day in Bakio, a small coastal town surrounded by mountains about 40 minutes from Bilbao (north via the BI-631 road). Its original purposes as a fishing village and centre of the iron industry have been replaced by tourism, and it’s also become known for its Txakoli, the popular local Basque white wine, which is what brings us here. Start the day with an early visit to the Txakolingunea Txakoli museum (@txakolingunea) to learn something about the history of both the region and its wines.

There are several bodegas in and around Bakio, but particularly recommended is Doniene Gorrondona. The winery owners are Andoni, Egoitz, Itziar and Julen. The vineyards here were recovered after most of the local vines were abandoned during the phylloxera plague of the late 19th century. To visit the vineyards and winery you can choose from a range of daily visits (minimum four people) starting at €15, or private tours are available by arrangement.

From Bakio it’s a short drive to the island of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (check euskoguide.com or visitbiscay.eus), a beautiful hermitage on an impressive rocky island just off the rugged coastline. If it looks familiar, it’s because it featured as the citadel of Dragonstone in HBO’s Game of Thrones and House of the Dragon. The castle was CGI of course, but the causeway bridge and winding steps to the top of the island are real. Although it’s thought that the island was first built on in the 9th century, the current church is late 19th century. Remember to ring the bell and make a wish if you make it that far.

A little further on is our last stop for the day, the fishing port of Bermeo. Highlights here include the old port itself, which is notable for the colourful houses alongside Lamera park and its surroundings, including the Casino building. Take a stroll through the old town to the main square, and enjoy some pintxos in one of the local bars before heading a little out of town to stop for a late lunch at Almiketxu, which specialises in wood-grilled locally sourced meat and fish with vegetables from its own garden.

With a bit of planning, this day out can be organised using a combination of the local buses and taxis, but it is best done in your own car or with a car and driver.

Guernica – Bodegas Itsasmendi – Asador Etxebarri

Asador Etxebarri, Axpe. Credit: Bilbao Turismo

A visit to the ‘Basque king of the barbecue’ (chef Victor Arguinzoniz) could be considered a day-trip destination in itself. But if you want to make even more of your time, then after an early breakfast make your way to the town of Guernica, about 35 minutes from Bilbao (head east on the AP-8 then north via the BI-635). Time permitting, you can also visit a winery in a nature reserve before arriving at your lunch destination: meat mecca Asador Etxebarri.

Guernica is best known for Picasso’s famous painting depicting the bombing of the town by the Germans and Italians during the Spanish civil war. Although the original is in Madrid, a mural of the painting can be found in the town centre, close to the Museum of Peace. Also close by are the Assembly house and the tree of Guernica, symbols of Basque independence and democracy.

Within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve – a 230km² UNESCO-designated natural region – just to the south of Guernica you’ll find Bodegas Itsasmendi. Founded in 1994, and moved to its current location between Muxika and Guernica in 2003, the company’s 35ha of vineyards are distributed across 15 sites throughout the province of Bizkaia (Biscay). Pioneers in incorporating international grapes such as Riesling or Pinot Noir into its Txakoli range, the bodega is in a constant state of evolution. Book an early tasting that finishes by 12.30pm (packages at €25-€50).

Heading south again you’re into wilder country – take the scenic BI-635 road and don’t miss the turn-off for Ibarruri then Durango on the BI-3332 (prepare for hairpin bends and some tremendous forested views), then pick up the N-634 and N-636 to get to Atxondo; turn off the main road here and the great views continue all the way up to the village of Axpe, nestling in the lush foothills and home to world-renowned one-star Michelin Asador Etxebarri. The restaurant – founded in 1988 by Victor Arguinzoniz, who grew up just a kilometre away – is in a stunning location, and it’s very easy to imagine the days when this tiny village had no gas or electricity. Arguinzoniz has turned this idea into his hallmark with a locally sourced menu based on grilling, especially grilled meats. Be sure to book well in advance.

Both of these Bilbao-based day trips should get you back to the city in time for a sundowner on the rooftop of the Gran Hotel Domine which has spectacular views overlooking Bilbao and the magnificent Guggenheim museum.

For a fully customised experience to these Basque locations (and others), contact local expert Gabriella Ranelli at Tenedor Tours.

Barcelona

Alella

Alella vineyards looking down towards El Masnou. Credit: Hans Geel / Alamy Stock Photo

The picturesque town of Alella is just off the coast, about 20km northeast of central Barcelona. There are two public transport options: you can take the train from Plaça Catalunya to the nearby port town of El Masnou and then a short taxi or bus ride into Alella. Alternatively you can take the E19 Sagalés bus from the Ronda de Sant Pere (near Plaça d’Urquinaona) which brings you directly to the centre of the town.

Once you arrive, the perfect start to the day would be a relaxing 10am self-care session at Alella Organic Spa. Located in a 17th-century farmhouse in the heart of town, the small spa offers a variety of organic therapy options for two, including massages, facials, scrubs and wraps.

From there you can take a taxi to the family-run Alta Alella. There are scheduled tours in English (two hours, adults €22) that include a walk through the vineyards followed by a wine pairing with four wines (still and sparkling), jamón Ibérico and four regional cheeses. This takes place outside on the winery terrace with spectacular views overlooking the Mediterranean. If the timings don’t quite work, you can book ahead for a private winery visit at a time that suits you.

Back in Alella, finish with a lateish lunch (3pm) at Restaurante Els Garrofers in the upper barrio, which specialises in contemporary Catalan cuisine focused on local products and Mediterranean recipes.

If you’ve come to Alella by train then you may want to stop for a post-prandial G&T at one of the bars overlooking the port in El Masnou before heading back to Barcelona. Otherwise, once you are back in the city, you can opt for a sundowner at La Dolce Vitae rooftop bar, at the aptly named Majestic Hotel on the Passeig de Gràcia, right in the centre of town.

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia – Llopart – Recaredo

Recaredo, near Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, manages its vines biodynamically. Credit: Marçal Font

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, an hour or so west of Barcelona, is in the heart of Cava country in the Penedès region. But today’s trip focuses on sparkling wines from the relatively young designation of Corpinnat, the collective brand of a group of now 11 established organic sparkling wine producers that was first formed in 2015 and achieved formal EU recognition in late 2017.

Take the train from Plaça Catalunya in time to arrive at Sant Sadurní by 10.30am, then it’s on to an 11am winery visit at Llopart, just 10 minutes away by taxi in the mountains above the town. The winding BP-2427 road up to the winery gives you a taste of what to expect when you arrive at the vineyards. Its Reserva Tour (about two hours, adults €28) takes you on a stroll not only through the vineyards but also through the winery’s history while enjoying spectacular views and ending with equally impressive wines accompanied by local snacks.

Take a taxi back to the town for lunch at Cal Ticus, a popular family restaurant offering market cuisine and local products. In addition to serving traditional Catalán dishes with a twist, it also has an extensive range of wines that are available to purchase in its wine shop.

Recaredo has been producing terroir-focused wines from its own vineyards since 1924. Its Origen Visit (3.30-5.30pm, €35 per person), at its cellars on Carrer de Tamarit, is an excellent introduction to the winery’s commitment to long ageing and biodynamic viticulture. You’ll visit the cellar and taste four long-aged wines (two brut nature and two still) that capture the essence of the region.

On your way back to the train station pop into the Simón Coll chocolate factory to view (and sample) its beautifully packaged treats, ranging from classic and vintage-style chocolates to whimsical Cava bottle shapes.

Madrid

Segovia – Bodega Blanco Nieva

The magnificent Roman aqueduct in Segovia. Credit: Sean Pavone / Alamy Stock Photo

The medieval city of Segovia is some 95km northwest of the capital Madrid and makes a perfect day-trip destination. But first we begin with an 11am visit to Bodega Blanco Nieva in the village of Santa María la Real de Nieva, 30km northwest of Segovia.

By car from Madrid, head to the bodega via the A-6, which becomes the AP-6, then off onto the N-603 for Otero de Herreros. Take the turning onto the SG-723 (for Vegas de Matute) then the SG-313. Finally, a left onto the CL-605 towards Arévalo takes you northwest on a straight road across sweeping plains. The bodega is on the far side of Santa María, on the SG-342. Afterwards, to get to Segovia, head back along the CL-605 all the way. Alternatively, take the high speed AVE train from Madrid’s Chamartín station to Segovia Guiomar (just outside the city) and from there take a taxi to the bodega.

Santa María la Real de Nieva boasts several excellent wineries which are key to understanding quality Verdejo wines. At Blanco Nieva you’ll take a stroll through the vineyards with their 100-year-old vines and be guided through the production process before enjoying a tasting in the magnificent halls of the bodega (€40 per person, less for groups).

Arriving in Segovia, your first port of call has to be the iconic Roman aqueduct that spans the valley on the eastern side of the town. From there it’s a short walk up through the ancient narrow streets to the Plaza Mayor. Here you’ll find both the 16th-century late Gothic-style cathedral and, just off the square, Restaurante José María, where founder José María Ruiz has perfected the local speciality of roast suckling pig. Accompanied by a dish of judiones del Real Sitio (a type of regional giant butter bean) and a glass of Pago de Carraovejas, Ribera del Duero (another of Ruiz’s projects), this is quintessential Segovia.

After lunch, walk up along the walls to the top of the old town and the Alcázar, the royal palace and fortress said to be one of the inspirations for the original Disney castle. The Mirador Junto Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia has breathtaking views across the countryside below the city.

Bodega Más Que Vinos – Toledo

Adolfo Muñoz, Restaurante Adolfo, Toledo

Our day trip south from Madrid takes us into Castilla-La Mancha, land of Don Quixote, windmills and Manchego cheese, and of some very fine wines, which brings you to Más Que Vinos in Cabañas de Yepes, about 50 minutes along the A4 from Madrid.

Margarita Madrigal, Alexandra Schmedes and Gonzalo Rodriguez met in 1998 and started working together in Rodriguez’s family bodega, La Plazuela in Dosbarrios, which dates back to 1851. Their current bodega in the neighbouring village of Cabañas de Yepes was founded in 2007. The tour lasts about 2.5 hours (Monday-Friday, €42 per person; Saturday €49 for minimum six people) and includes the original La Plazuela winery and the El Horcajo vineyard, finishing back at the Cabañas de Yepes winery with a tasting accompanied by local tapas.

Then on to Toledo for lunch. Adolfo Muñoz is one of Toledo’s leading chefs and his Restaurante Adolfo, which sits on a hill overlooking the city, takes classic Toledo cuisine to the next level. It also boasts what the website describes as the only urban vineyard in Spain, Viñedos Cigarral Santa María. For a peak epicurean experience, Iván Cerdeño’s two-star Michelin Cigarral del Angel combines traditional cuisine with fine dining and spectacular views.

Toledo is impressively located on a hill overlooking the river Tagus, and has been important since at least Roman times. It was the capital of the Visigothic kingdom of Spain before passing to the Moors and then the Christians. In late medieval times, the city had the largest Jewish quarter in Spain and was an important multicultural centre of learning.

Not surprisingly, Toledo is full of historic sites, such as the synagogues of Santa María La Blanca (now a church) and El Tránsito (now the Sephardi museum), the Moorish style El Cristo de la Luz, the Alcázar and the Gothic cathedral, as well as the San Martín bridge, and the old walls and gates. The journey back to Madrid by car takes about an hour on the A42.

Seville

Jerez de la Frontera

A tasting at Bodegas Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera

With Sherry country only about an hour from Seville by train, a visit to Jerez de la Frontera is not to be missed. A historic city in its own right, Jerez is of course best known as the centre of the Sherry-producing region (DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry). For wine lovers, a tour of one (or more) of the city’s distinguished bodegas will be the highlight of any visit. Even for the uninitiated it’s a fascinating experience, not only for the wines and the complexities of their production, but also for the architecture and atmosphere of the bodegas themselves.

Arrive early enough to enjoy a breakfast of churros and chocolate at any of the bars outside the central market (after ordering your drinks, pick up your churros from the stall in the centre of the square and take them back to your table). A short walk from the market will take you to Bodegas Lustau, which offers an excellent bodega tour and tasting beginning at 10am (this is where those churros will be your friend; Tuesday-Friday, also at 3pm, €20) – after this you can spend some time visiting the city centre. For sightseeing, the Moorish Alcázar palace, the cathedral and the municipal archaeological museum are top of the list, but just wandering the streets is like walking in a living museum.

Stop in at Tabanco El Pasaje to sample Sherry by Bodegas Maestro Sierra from the barrel and, if you’re in luck, happen upon a casual flamenco performance. From there, a quick lunch at buzzy Tabanco Las Banderillas (see Facebook) for excellent traditional tapas before a 4pm tasting including exquisite VOS and VORS Sherries at Bodegas Tradición and a viewing of its private art museum as a bonus – €50 per person.

For a more relaxed afternoon, opt for a leisurely lunch at Israel Ramos’ one-star Michelin Mantúa and ‘visit’ several bodegas with its excellent Sherry pairing menu.

Ronda

The 18th-century ‘new bridge’, Ronda. Credit: Evgeni Dinev Photography / Getty Images

About 130km southeast of Seville, the impossibly charming town of Ronda, with a population of just 35,000, punches well above its weight when it comes to things to see and do. Its particular claim to fame is the magnificent El Tajo gorge carved out by the Guadalevín river, with the 15th-century ‘new town’ (founded when the Christians reconquered the city in 1485) on the north side, and the Moorish ‘old town’ on the south, connected by the impressive span of the 18th- century Puente Nuevo ‘new bridge’. From there, or from the nearby Alameda park, the wonderful views of the gorge and the surrounding countryside are one of the joys of coming here.

If you prefer not to drive, there are regular daily buses to Ronda from Prado de San Sebastián in Seville. A winery visit upon arrival is a great way to start off your day. Just outside the city you will find some of the most exciting wineries in the region, all easily reached by taxi. Descalzos Viejos, Bodega F Schatz and La Melonera produce award-winning organic single-estate wines with visits available upon request.

Back in Ronda, splash out on chef Benito Gómez’s two-star Michelin restaurant Bardal or try his more casual Tragatá, both a stone’s throw from the 18th-century bullring.

After lunch, there are great walks on either side of the gorge and around the old town, including down to the old mills below the Puente Nuevo, or exploring the beautiful Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, containing the church of Santa María La Mayor and on down to the Moorish gate of Almocábar. Across the bridge, the Maestranza bullring is another must-visit – it’s the oldest of its kind in Spain and was much loved by the likes of Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles. Finally, if time permits, head back to the old town to the quirky Casa Palacio Museo Lara, containing the private collection of founder Juan Antonio Lara Jurado.

Málaga

Bodega La Capuchina – Antequera

The ‘reclining face mountain’ of Peña de los Enamorados from Antequera. Credit: Estellez / Getty Images

An hour north of Málaga is one of Andalucía’s historic hidden gems. Antequera, the official centre of the region, is still not really well known, which makes for a relaxing and relatively tourist-free day out. Start the day with a late-morning (10.30am) pre-arranged visit to Bodega La Capuchina (@bodegalacapuchina). As you pass the turn-off to Antequera on the A-45 from Málaga, look out for the famous ‘reclining face’ mountain of Peña de los Enamorados on the right. Continue for 15km to take the MA- 708/6415, and just before you reach Alameda take the second road off the roundabout (towards Mollina) – 1.4km down the road turn left down an unmarked dusty road to reach the winery’s impressive sprawling estate, once home to a monastery run by friars of the Capuchin order.

After a tour of the grounds and a tasting (about three hours including charcuterie and cheese, €35), a short drive south (head towards Mollina, and from there onto the A-92) will take you to Antequera. The town is physically dominated by the imposing Alcazaba (fortress), built by the Moors in the 14th century and conquered by the Christians in 1410. It’s a bit of a climb to reach the top, but well worth the effort for both the ruins and the views. Also worth exploring are some of the city’s churches and convents, which are among the best endowed in Spain, and the Museo de la Ciudad municipal museum, housed in a baroque palace, which has a wealth of artistic and historical treasures.

For lunch you can taste the history of Andalucía at Arte de Cozina, where chef Charo Carmona has spent several years reviving forgotten dishes and recipes. She showcases them in her charming city-centre restaurant, located in a beautifully restored 17th-century manor house, which also offers nine well-priced rooms. For a lighter snack you can enjoy tapas next door at Charo’s Arte de Tapas.

If time allows, stop in to see the bronze-age burial mounds (dolmens) on the road out of town, or if you fancy a hike, work off the excesses of the day in the alien landscape of El Torcal, just south of Antequera, with its surreal limestone formations.

Nerja – Bodegas Bentomiz

Bodegas Bentomiz, Sayalonga

An hour east of Málaga (on the A-7) is the beautiful coastal town of Nerja. Start the day early, arriving in Nerja by 9am, and begin by strolling the magnificent Balcón de Europa, a promenade built on the edge of a cliff on the site of a former Moorish watchtower, where you can take in the beautiful views of the stunning Mediterranean coastline on either side. Wander through the old quarter, with its narrow alleyways, whitewashed houses, little squares and churches, perhaps stopping at a café for a quick breakfast. This part of Nerja retains its old world charm, and is a refreshing change from the overdeveloped Costa del Sol.

Make time to visit the breathtaking Nerja caves just to the northeast of town before heading back towards Málaga and exploring the Axarquía region further inland, taking the A-7206 up past Sayalonga to another spectacular site – Bodegas Bentomiz, which rises atop the white mountain village as you approach. Depending on the time spent in Nerja and the caves, you can opt for a winery visit and tasting (starting at 12.30pm, €15, optional €7 tasting platter) or taste the award-winning wines over a leisurely lunch at its in-house market-sourced restaurant (2pm, three-course menu €38 plus €10.50 wine pairing, five-course menu €51 plus €17). Ideally you will want to do both, but either way winemaker Clara Verheij and her husband, chef André Both, will make this an unforgettable experience.

Both Antequera and Nerja can be reached by public transport from Málaga, though if you want to include a winery visit (recommended!) then hiring a car or booking a private guided tour are better options. For a personalised guided experience to these locations (and others), get in touch with Málaga native and tour guide Victor Garrido (welovemalaga.com).

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In the most basic sense, Babylonstoren is a 17th century Cape Dutch farm that has been converted into a hotel, spa and winery. But that simplistic description doesn’t do justice to this special place, set in the beautiful Franschhoek Valley.

Just a 45-minute drive east of Cape Town, billionaire proprietors Koos Bekker and Karen Roos – who also own a UK outpost, The Newt in Somerset – have created a wine lovers’ destination that is far more than the sum of its parts.

There are vast acreages of manicured gardens, farm-to-fork dining with hyper-seasonal produce and a newly opened wine museum. While chic villas let you wake to views of Simonsberg mountain, Babylonstoren is the luxurious paradigm of a Cape Winelands estate. No question: this place will get under your skin.

A rich wine history

The tasting room at sunset

Wine has always been a major part of Babylonstoren’s story. After all, this is the Western Cape, home to esteemed vineyards producing everything from local Pinotage to Bordeaux red blends. The estate has grown grapes since the 1690s.

Today’s winemaking team, headed by Klaas Stoffberg, uses a state-of-the-art winery to turn out a core range of 10 bottlings. They range from peachy Viognier to brioche-noted Méthode Cap Classique Chardonnay. Behind the scenes, Stoffberg experiments with the likes of amphora and cement fermenters to make small batch, limited-release wines for the estate’s wine club members.

Stoffberg is in good company in the region. Babylonstoren’s doorstep is littered with big wine names from Franschhoek and Stellenbosch – many within 15-20 minutes’ drive of the hotel. Head to Delaire Graff Estate to wander its sculpture-studded gardens and sample its bold Cabernet Sauvignon. Visit Spier Wine Farm to savour a tangy Sauvignon-Sémillon. Or what about Black Elephant Vintners for an innovative music and wine pairing?

When you’ve returned to home base at Babylonstoren, enjoy a flight of seven wines, tour the cellar, then explore the newly opened onsite wine museum, The Story of Wine.

On the menu

Despite the impressive nature of its wines, the estate’s 94ha of vineyards are only part of the agricultural picture at Babylonstoren. First-class olive oils and rooibos teas are also produced here, and there are bountiful fruit orchards, vegetable patches, cycads, protea and fynbos. Not to mention hens and cows. In short, the rambling grounds – around 200ha in total – are a veritable horticultural rainbow.

With such rich offerings of produce, it’s only natural that good fresh food features in a Babylonstoren stay. The onsite Babel restaurant, set in a refurbished cow shed, serves up whatever is in season in the garden.

That could be heirloom cucumbers, sweetcorn or peaches. Breakfast features eggs from the hens, while meat from estate-reared Chianina cattle is dry-aged in the salt room before starring in lunches and dinners.

It’s not just about the restaurants, either. Part of what gives Babylonstoren its cache is its comprehensive farm shop. It attracts visitors both local and far-flung for its butchery, handmade dairy products, bakery and ‘lekker’ (sweets) room. Regular cookery or gardening workshops let you produce your own nut butter, blend herbal teas or make pasta, too.

Rest and relax

When you aren’t eating or drinking, there are other kinds of hedonistic pleasures in store for guests: namely an excellent spa. Babylonstoren recently launched a new ‘hot spa’, featuring vitality pools, a hammam and a rasul mud treatment room. This is in addition to its existing regime of bamboo stick massages and anti-ageing facials.

True to its roots, the accommodation at Babylonstoren is set in Cape Dutch-style architecture. But here historic doesn’t mean staid. Owner Roos is the former editor of ELLE Decoration South Africa, so reimagined former farm buildings put style at the forefront.

Classic white-washed exteriors meet floor-to-ceiling glass to let in the light, alongside plush minimalist furnishings. Curl up in front of a roaring fire with a book from the tome-stacked shelf, with a glass of Babylonstoren’s delicate Mouvèdre Rosé in hand, and you’ll feel like all’s right with the world.

For more information visit babylonstoren.com

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