Walls: Gigondas 2013 and 2014 – time to drink up?

I clearly remember the summer of 2014 in the Rhône . We were there on holiday, staying not far from the hill of Hermitage . It rained incessantly, I got tonsillitis and we had to rush our two-year-old son to hospital with a severed thumb. It wasn’t the best holiday we’ve ever had. That wet summer of 2014 also made an indelible impression on the wines. The 2013 vintage wasn’t without its challenges either – it was certainly unlucky for some. Positioned between the excellent 2012 and 2015, the 2013s and 2014s have been somewhat disregarded. Now they’re approaching maturity, it was time for a reappraisal. I was recently in Gigondas to celebrate the 50th anniversary of this appellation’s promotion to cru status. While I was there I tasted around 40 wines – where possible the same cuvée from both 2013 and 2014 – to get a better grasp of how they’re showing today. Stylistically they couldn’t be more different. Got Gigondas 2013 and 2014 in your cellar? Scroll down for Matt Wall's tasting notes and scores to see how they're drinking now [subscriber-content] [caption id="attachment_484390" align="aligncenter" width="630"] Spring in the Pas de l'Aigle vineyard at Pierre Amadieu. Credit: www.pierre-amadieu.com[/caption] The 2013 growing season ‘It was an atypical year,’ says Christophe Galon of Domaine Les Semelles de Vent. Grenache vines across the whole of the southern Rhône were hit by serious coulure (the failure of grape bunches to develop properly). This is usually caused by cold, wet weather during flowering; it doesn’t affect the quality of the fruit per se, just the yields. As a result, wines from 2013 tend to contain higher proportions of other grapes in the blend than a typical year, mostly Syrah and Mourvèdre . ‘In our Gigondas, the proportion of Syrah was around 50% instead of the usual 30%,’ says Galon. This is one reason why the wines are relatively dark and structured. The other reason is the lateness of the harvest: the season started three weeks later than average due to the cold, wet spring. ‘2013 is a year that demanded patience,’ says Pierre Amadieu, ‘it was exceptionally late, the latest in 30 years.’ It made for wines with pronounced tannic frames and strong acidities. Amadieu recalls that a few months after bottling, he found that ‘the tannins of the 2013, very present following the coulure with the Grenache, gave this vintage an austere side with a hint of harshness in the months that followed.’ The 2014 growing season Conditions were very different in 2014. Unlike 2013, it got off to an early start, but was then hampered by a cool, wet July that brought problems with rot. August was better, but the rains returned in September while many were harvesting. Plentiful fruit and wet conditions led to generous yields. Josiane Faraud of Mas des Restanques recorded 36hl/ha in 2014 compared to just 25hl/ha in 2013. Amadieu says that a green harvest (the removal of extra bunches before they’re ripe in order to promote ripening in the remaining bunches) and leaf thinning (the removal of vine leaves to expose grape bunches to sunlight and air flow) were necessary to aid ripening. The result was wines that were lighter in colour and structure compared to the 2013s, and readier sooner. ‘The 2014 vintage was less dense due to rainy weather before harvest,’ says Amadieu, ‘and it quickly developed aromas of undergrowth and incense, and a fine tannic structure. Contrasting styles At the tasting, the most immediate difference between the two vintages was visible in their colours; the 2013s are much darker in the glass. This is due to two factors: the proportions of Syrah in the blend, and the lower yields. The 2013s are much more tannic too, for the same reasons. When the 2014s were released, the reaction was largely lukewarm. Some winemakers and commentators proclaimed it to be a weak vintage, but that now appears unfair – in Gigondas at least it’s classic and well balanced. The wines are red-fruited and spicy, with freshness and clarity. When it comes to quality, the highs are higher in 2013, but the style isn’t always easy to love – it can feel a little gruff. But the wines often have more length and depth than the 2014s, which can appear a little lightweight by comparison. Thanks to their finesse, however, the 2014s will be more versatile with food – if you’re opening the 2013s now, choose strongly flavoured dishes that can cope with powerful tannins. On release, the respective shortcomings of these two vintages were clear. But it pays to wait until the wines are ready to drink before making any definitive judgement. Gigondas 2013 and 2014 - drink or keep? At least half the 2013s I tasted would benefit from another year or two in bottle, and those that are ready are only beginning to open up. By contrast, the 2014s were almost all ready to drink. They are in a good place now, and most will continue to drink well for the next few years, but this isn’t a vintage for long ageing. If you have any in storage, now is the time to bring them out. There are some delicious wines in 2013 and 2014, but it’s useful to know their differing styles, drinking windows and food matches. What this tasting proved is that it’s overly simplistic to describe a vintage simply as ‘better’ or ‘worse’. Unlike my summer holidays. [/subscriber-content] See Matt Wall's tasting notes and scores for a selection of Gigondas 2013 and 2014 wines: [wine-collection] Related content: Walls: The magic of mature Gigondas Walls’ hidden gems: Moulin de la Gardette, Gigondas Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2020: report and top-scoring wines

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Walls: Gigondas 2013 and 2014 – time to drink up?

Got Gigondas 2013 and 2014 in your cellar? Scroll down for Matt Wall’s tasting notes and scores to see how they’re drinking now

See Matt Wall’s tasting notes and scores for a selection of Gigondas 2013 and 2014 wines:

Related content:

Walls: The magic of mature Gigondas

Walls’ hidden gems: Moulin de la Gardette, Gigondas

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2020: report and top-scoring wines

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