After recently tasting more than 40 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 samples, Michaela Morris has given her full verdict on the vintage.
Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the all 46 wines including one late release from the 2015 vintage and one from the 2012 vintage.
Just a few months after the release of the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino and 2015 Riserva, the growers’ consortium decided to move forward its annual ‘Benvenuto Brunello’ event. The official preview tasting, which previously took place in February - at the same time as Tuscany’s other key DOCGs - convened in November to showcase the 2017 vintage of Brunello and 2016 vintage of Brunello Riserva.
The decision was not without controversy but ultimately it served as a true foretaste, as the wines have only just been unleashed on the market this January.
Leading up to the event, I couldn’t help but wonder how the 2017 Brunello would perform so shortly after the stunning spectacle of the 2016s. These neighbouring years clearly demonstrate that vintage variation still reigns, despite the warming climate. They also illustrate that in Montalcino, location counts.
Taking these new releases side by side, the 2017 Brunellos are best embraced for their immediacy, whereas the 2016 Riservas deserve a place in the cellar.
| Producer | Appellation | Score | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canalicchio di Sopra, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 98 | Canalicchio di Sopra’s Riserva is typically crafted from the estate’s oldest plantings. In 2016, it combines two sites: Vigna Vecchia Mercatale in Canalicchio and the Filari Lunghi vineyard on the Montosoli hill. It is intensely balsamic in fragrance, flaunting mint and rosemary on a backdrop of dark, rain-soaked soil. Flint and tobacco notes hover in the background. The palate is pure and upright. Tight, linear tannins penetrate the compact core of black brooding berries. Then, the palate is suddenly refreshed by a tangy, stony minerality. This still needs time to meld, but all the elements are there for a long life. Drinking window: 2025-2042 Click to see full details | |
| Conti Costanti, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 98 | Andrea Costanti believes resolutely that 2016 was a year to make a Riserva. His is confidently extracted by a skilled hand and demonstrates the formidable structure, profundity and length to ride out well over a couple of decades. Even on the nose you sense the depth as coffee, leather, wet soil and tobacco intertwine. Filling every corner of the mouth, it stretches out with a tactile chalkiness. Dark earthy nuances are brightened by blood orange and red plum. That pleasant bitter citrus peel echoes on the finish. This is commanding rather than seductive at the moment. Harvested on 1 Oct, there were 8,000 bottles produced – compared to 20,000 for Costanti’s annata bottling. Drinking window: 2025-2045 Click to see full details | |
| Fuligni, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 98 | Fuligni’s Riserva is born in the San Giovanni vineyard at Podere Cottimelli, the estate’s original site. It is a selection of the best bunches from vines averaging 50 years of age. The 2016 is currently a brooding beast, but a remarkably handsome one at close glance. It starts with polished leather and walnut skin before disclosing hints of lavender, anise and freshly turned earth. The structure is even denser and drier than the annata, but the fruit is also sweeter and more concentrated. Finely chiselled tannins wrap around black cherry and red plum, and with an intense mineral drive this is fully charged. It will take a few more years, however, to lay bare all of its lurking intricacies. Drinking window: 2025-2045 Click to see full details | |
| Gianni Brunelli, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 98 | Gianni Brunelli’s Riserva is built from the Olmo vineyard in Montalcino’s southeast. Reaching 500 metres on stony soil, this warm site is the first to be picked by the estate. A small portion of the northeast-facing Le Chiuse di Sotto vineyard is added for freshness and aromatic lift. Heady and inviting, the 2016 presents ripe florals of mint blossom, peony and allspice on a nutty, truffly backdrop. It is iron-edged and succulent on the palate. The tannins are steely yet supple, ultimately clinging gracefully to fresh red cherry and blueberry. Tarragon resounds on the finish. Thrillingly tense. Drinking window: 2024-2040 Click to see full details | |
| Castello Romitorio, Filo di Seta Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 97 | The first ever Riserva from Castello Romitorio’s Filo di Seta plot, this is crafted from a handful of selected tonneaux – mostly used but a couple new. Significantly, it comes predominantly from early-picked grapes. Still in its infancy, the 2016 is not ready to divulge everything. Weighty with depths of wild, spicy, dark fruit, yet radiant in its acidity, a sturdy framework of tannins sticks to the palate with a pulverised, chalky texture giving immense grip. Anise, mint and clove show up on the finish. This bears a hefty price tag as Filippo Chia seeks to elevate the value of Montalcino. Drinking window: 2025-2040 Click to see full details | |
| Padelletti, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 97 | With grape growing roots in Montalcino going back to the 1500s, the Padelletti estate is currently run by Claudia Susanna Padelletti. She selects the Riserva from the estate’s oldest plots, a massal selection of 40-plus-year-old vines. The 2016 exhibits a denser tannic load than the annata bottling, which hails from slightly younger vines. This echoes the annata's lovely fragrant profile, however, revealing pressed violet, fennel and wet forest. Firm yet finessed with a quietly commanding structure, this will start to reveal more of its charms in a couple of years’ time. Drinking window: 2024-2040 Click to see full details | |
| Poggio di Sotto, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 97 | Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva is usually crafted from one single 30-hectolitre Slavonian oak cask. In 2016, the estate selected two - essentially doubling production to 8,000 bottles. Radiant and animated, this Riserva captivates with gorgeous aromas of orange oil, rose, pomegranate, raspberry and even sundried tomato. Yet the palate is locked tight, denser than usual but gracefully composed. Tactile tannins wrap around the mouth with a powdery texture. Eventually a succulent core of currants reveals itself. The long and detailed finish exhibits smoke, pepper and orange peel. Drinking window: 2025-2042 Click to see full details | |
| San Polino, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 97 | San Polino’s Riserva is crafted from a south-facing plot at 450 metres. After spontaneous fermentation and a long 60-day maceration, this sees a short passage in barriques before long ageing in large Slavonian oak casks. It exhibits all the perfumed liquorice, curry and wild scrub nuances that a walk through the vineyard offers. It's dark fruited on the palate, where shaded woodland notes come to the fore and elegant, terracotta-like tannins give assertive mid-palate presence and structure. Then after all of that depth, the wine finishes with brightness and lightness. A gratifying ride that will gain even greater precision with time. Drinking window: 2024-2039 Click to see full details | |
| Sesti, Phenomena Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 97 | The Sesti family has always preferred long ageing in large casks, even when less time in smaller barrels was fashionable. They also keep rackings and sulphur additions to a minimum and follow the moon cycle to ensure bottling never occurs when air pressure is low. Sesti’s Riserva is lively, persistent and, quite simply, stunning. Scents of bergamot blossoms, orange peel and cardamom emerge slowly. Smooth, round and plummy on the entry, this gains tension as it clutches the palate with an irony grip. Depth and substance are articulated by persimmon, prickly pear and tamarind nuances. Drinking window: 2024-2039 Click to see full details | |
| Castello Romitorio, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 96 | Castello Romitorio harvests in two stages. The first is an early selection of the smallest, loosest bunches across the oldest vineyards and fills one single tank. In years when the estate Brunello can stand alone, this is bottled separately as a Riserva. The tenth since 1987, the 2016 is wondrously earthy in its overture of clay, mineral rock and iron. It evolves into an autumnal smokiness then lands on balsamic herbs and crunchy red woodland berries. Youthful vigour and verve do not conceal intrinsic finesse. Acid crunch and dramatic mouth-caressing tannins will see this through the long haul. Drinking window: 2024-2038 Click to see full details | |
| Il Poggione, Vigna Paganelli Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 96 | The estate’s oldest plot, Vigna Paganelli is a 12-hectare vineyard planted in 1964. It boasts a rich diversity of old Sangiovese clones which are used for newer plantings. Spiced plum, cured leather and a roll-call of marjoram, tarragon and basil beckon generously. Though hefty in size, this carries its girth with charming ease. There is a richness and sweetness to the fruit, while ripe, granular tannins provide a framework. A mineral edge emerges underneath all the layers. It will be hard to resist young, but I suspect intricate details will become more apparent in time. Drinking window: 2023-2040 Click to see full details | |
| La Magia, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 96 | Second-generation winemaker Fabian Schwarz has been at the helm at La Magia since 2011. He prefers spontaneous fermentations with some whole berries, long macerations and ageing in barriques. Understated yet gorgeous, aromas start with cedar and pine then progress into liquorice and thyme. Dense and concentrated, this is a mouthful - though not heavy. The vintage’s brilliantly emphatic acidity shines through, and new oak is well-absorbed by luscious cherry. Its sweet tannins are smooth, long and polished. Nevertheless, this could do with a couple of years in the cellar. Drinking window: 2024-2040 Click to see full details | |
| Caparzo, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 95 | Seamlessly constructed, Caparzo’s Riserva combines fruit from the estate’s original vineyard in the far north of Montalcino with La Casa on the Montosoli hill, as well as Il Cassero and La Caduta which are in the south to southwest of the denomination. Under a sheen of polished wood, red and black berries, forest undergrowth and mint emerge. Plump, crunchy currants pack the mid-palate while textured tannins fill out the perimeters and provide a satisfying chew on the finish. Pepper and clove linger. By no means unpleasant now, this will be even better after another year or two in the bottle. Drinking window: 2024-2038 Click to see full details | |
| Sesta di Sopra, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 95 | Working with consultant Paolo Vagaggini, proprietor Ettore Spina favours relatively low fermentation temperatures of between 26 to 28°C to preserve aromas. Indeed, the 2016 Riserva is heady and perfumed, with striking floral notes of orange and peach blossom. It expresses the warmth of the south, right down to nuances of sunbaked salty sand. The palate is replete with succulent strawberries, and the mouthcoating texture gives way to compact tannins. Overall, this absorbs its heat though finishes with some warming alcohol. Aged for three years in large casks followed by an additional six months in French oak barriques. Drinking window: 2023-2037 Click to see full details | |
| Talenti, Pian di Conte Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 95 | Produced from the estate’s oldest vineyards – predominantly southeast-facing plots at 400 metres – Talenti’s 2016 Riserva is all very charmingly animated on the nose. Vanilla and cinnamon accents play well with sweet herb nuances of mint and basil. The palate demonstrates its darker side with cedar-tinged plum and black cherry fashioning a dense core. This is firmly cinched yet still pliable, displaying precision throughout although the heat rises on the finish. Aged in a combination of large Slavonian oak casks and 500-Litre French oak tonneaux for a total of 6,600 bottles. Drinking window: 2023-2038 Click to see full details | |
| Altesino, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Like its sister estate – the nearby Caparzo – Altesino boasts vineyards in different sectors of Montalcino. The Riserva blends fruit from southern vineyards near Sant’Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate with northerly plots, including Montosoli. Pretty yet restrained, this leads with floral fragrances of pressed violet and rose, then progresses to eucalypt and brushwood. It sits gracefully on the palate. Long, silky tannins build with powdery structure. Though the wine gains density, it ultimately expresses elegance over power. Its distinguishing characteristic in 2016 is a pleasant bitterness that recalls cocoa and quinine. Very mouth-cleansing. Drinking window: 2023-2035 Click to see full details | |
| Argiano, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Argiano’s winemaker, Bernardino Sani waited until mid-October to harvest in 2016, benefiting from the slow ripening provided by the cool autumn nights. While the Riserva is dense and layered, freshness is preserved. Munificent aromas and flavours of sun-baked stone, Mediterranean herbs, dark red cherry and tobacco speak of the south. Suave tannins are seductively textured. Juicy on the mid-palate, it explodes with sweet spice and berries on the finish. The Riserva is a tiny vineyard selection of less than 2,000 bottles. It is aged in a combination of 1,000-litre and 600-litre barrels. Drinking window: 2022-2032 Click to see full details | |
| Canalicchio Franco Pacenti, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Selected from the Pacenti family’s 10 hectares of vineyards that surround the estate in the Canalicchio zone. Mellowed and attractively evolved, engaging aromas of vanilla-tinged tobacco, leather and mulch draw you in. The palate exhibits a more youthful mien, robust and solidly built with ample stuffing. The tannins will need time to unfurl. Hints of dried cherry and liquorice surface, and the finish echoes the wine’s progression. Less than 7,000 bottles produced. Drinking window: 2023-2038 Click to see full details | |
| Capanna di Cencioni, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Established by the Cencioni family in 1957, Capanna now boasts 20 hectares of southeast-facing vineyards in the area of Montosoli. Selected from the oldest vines, the Riserva is aged in 10- to 25-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. It is immediately seductive in its aromas of dried leaves, wet forest and sandalwood - yet suggests that there is more to come. Lustrous cherry is studded with sage on the dense palate. This is generous but cinched in the right places, while substantial, chewy tannins are ultimately yielding. Will be better in a few years. Drinking window: 2025-2039 Click to see full details | |
| Castiglion del Bosco, Millecento Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Cecilia Leoneschi has been the winemaker at Castiglion del Bosco since Massimo Ferragamo purchased the estate in 2003. She has been instrumental in converting the estate to organic practices, with official certification achieved in 2016. Grilled nut, cedar and vanilla permeate the wild strawberry-soaked nose. The palate is concentrated and confidently extracted. Dry, grippy tannins clutch the mouth, followed closely by a wash of lip-smacking acidity. Savoury with compelling underbrush accents, there is plenty brewing here. Drinking window: 2024-2038 Click to see full details | |
| Cava d'Onice, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Cava d'Onice Riserva is a 2,000-bottle cuvée selected from the Nannetti family’s four vineyard sites. Fermented and aged in small French and Slavonian oak barrels, it wears its wood like a well-fitting jacket. Compelling scents of cherry studded with mint and sage poke through. The palate reveals a savoury side as well as stony, mineral accents. Tannins are dense and authoritative but not merciless. They provide masses of structure for ageing. A vigorous, characterful Brunello with quite a lively sparkle. Drinking window: 2024-2039 Click to see full details | |
| La Fiorita, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | A single vineyard expression from Pian Bossolino, La Fiorita’s Riserva was picked on 10 October. It comes across as very ripe in its aromas of wild black cherry and exotically spiced plum. Traces of smoke interject. There is a stony undertow on the mid-palate countering the boisterous mix of red and black fruit. A full-bodied, southern Brunello, this is well-proportioned and elegant in tannins. It finishes delectably sappy. Among the many overhauls this estate has made in the last few years, La Fiorita began working with renowned consultant Maurizio Castelli in 2016. Drinking window: 2022-2035 Click to see full details | |
| Le Macioche, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | A stone’s throw from the renowned Salicutti estate, Le Macioche is a well-ventilated property with warm southeast- to southwest-facing vineyards. High altitudes are suggested by the perfumed, pretty scents of wild strawberry, cedar and rooibos tea. Fluid and light on its feet, it is buoyed by juicy acidity and subtlety, and gripped by terracotta-like tannins. A touch of toast marries well with crunchy red currants. Ready to drink now but sneaky depth will carry this for another decade. There is already a fair amount of sediment so be sure to decant. Drinking window: 2022-2032 Click to see full details | |
| Tassi di Franci Franca, Franci Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Tassi produces a Riserva from the estate’s oldest plantings. It hails from the Franci vineyard where vines are now over 40 years of age. An east- to southeast-facing parcel, it benefits from the gentle morning sun. The 2016 is well-defined with liquorice, bay laurel, plum and background notes of creosote and leather. Seductively textured tannins fill the mouth, becoming rather firm and resolute in their progression. This is robust and compact yet vibrantly complex. Finishes with traces of helichrysum. Drinking window: 2024-2039 Click to see full details | |
| Uccelliera, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 94 | Andrea Cortonesi crafts distinctly umami Brunello from various parcels at diverse altitudes and exposures in the warm reaches of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. After trying the sensuous 2015 Riserva at the estate in September 2021, I was excited to taste the 2016 release. It too is voluptuously shaped yet shored up by sturdy, muscular tannins. Pronounced clove and nutmeg meet prune, dried raspberry and tar. And there is a saline beef broth undertow. While it offers plenty to unpack over the years, I actually prefer to drink Uccelliera’s wines when they are still full of vim and vigour. Drinking window: 2023-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, Santa Caterina D’Oro Vigna di Pianrosso Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 93 | From the estate’s Pianrosso vineyard in the Castelnuovo dell’Abate area, Santa Caterina d’Oro bears the imprint of Montalcino’s south. The spiced, floral potpourri is tangled with sunbaked terracotta scents. This is a substantial, hefty wine with lots of extract and a profusion of fleshy red plum and prune. The tannins are very suave, while sandy earthiness lurks in the background and a salty tang comes through on the finish. Ageing is in Slavonian oak barrels of 7.5 to 30 hectolitres in size. Drinking window: 2022-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Col di Lamo, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 93 | Col di Lamo is in the relatively cool, northeastern zone of Torrenieri. Giovanna Neri runs the estate single-handedly and has developed it slowly since her first vintage in 2003. For the Riserva, she makes a cask selection after vinification. The 2016 is lovely and lively. Fragrant dark soil, sweet garden herbs and a bouquet of flowers greet the nose. The palate is elegant in its generosity and offers succulent, cleansing acidity. Vigorous, youthful tannins wrap around the mouth and are supple in their retreat. Drinking window: 2023-2038 Click to see full details | |
| Cortonesi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 93 | Tommaso Cortonesi prefers to make site-specific wines, bottling the estate’s two vineyard areas separately. In superior vintages, a Riserva is selected from Cortonesi’s oldest plots in La Mannella, which sits close to the revered Montosoli hill. After long ageing in 30-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks, the 2016 is sombre and stern in its delivery and will need more time to yield. Imbued with cocoa, flint and tobacco, it is a sinewy Brunello with stuffing but no extra fat. Very concentrated in steely acidity, this shows the vintage’s underlying freshness. Drinking window: 2024-2036 Click to see full details | |
| Fattoi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 93 | Fattoi’s Riserva spends an extra year in wood compared to the annata Brunello. While ageing is predominantly in large Slavonian oak casks, this sees a small portion of 500 and 1,000-litre barrels as well. Enticing scents of prune, plum, black currants, incense and leather lead off. The palate brings in earth and salty minerals. Clayey tannins stick to the edges. Full and somewhat austere, this is sturdy in structure and comfortably classic in style. Drinking window: 2023-2033 Click to see full details | |
| Máté, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 93 | The Máté family established this estate after settling in Montalcino in the mid-1990s. Sangiovese is planted at high-density on marly Galestro soil rich in marine fossils. Riserva production totals 3,000 bottles. Tangible wood notes speak eloquently rather than scream, allowing for appetising scents of cedar, baking spice, porcini and rose to mingle. Fluid in delivery, polished, integrated oak lends toasty nuance to glossy red fruits while sophisticated tannins build up, imparting substantial structure. An underlying zestiness offsets its intensity. Drinking window: 2023-2035 Click to see full details | |
| Antinori, Pian delle Vigne Vigna Ferrovia Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 92 | Within Antinori’s 184-hectare estate in the southwest of Montalcino, the 4ha Vigna Ferrovia vineyard has been selected as the source for this Riserva. With moderating sea breezes, it is characterised by gravelly calcareous-clay soil. The 2016 opens favourably with warm cherry compote and plums tangled in salty liquorice. Easygoing on the palate, the tannins are sweet and long. There's a welcome flinty contrast beneath the plump fruit and it's all very balanced in ripeness and weight. Ready now and best over the near- to mid-term. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Casisano, Colombaiolo Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 92 | One of 10 parcels surrounding the estate, Colombaiolo is a southeast-facing site on schistous clay soil reaching almost 500 metres above sea level. It is aged in 18 and 25-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. Wet woodland scents make way for decisive blood orange and pomegranate, while subtle accents of liquorice, chopped mint and incense flirt demurely. Midweight, tart and tangy, this is not a flashy Brunello. Instead, it is rather angular in shape though elegantly framed. A salivating stoniness and mouth-watering acidity eclipse fine-boned tannins. It should unfold gracefully over the next decade. Drinking window: 2022-2032 Click to see full details | |
| Corte Pavone, Poggio Molino al Vento Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 92 | Planted in 1999, Poggio Molino al Vento is a south-facing site reaching 500 metres on a limestone-rich slate soil. Baked cherry compote and smoke aromas make way for scents of leather and exotic pot pourri. The palate is both concentrated and fresh as succulent acidity shores up layers of lush fruit. This is all very polished and smooth, yet a relatively restrained offering for Corte Pavone. Ageing is in large neutral barrels of 30 hectolitres. Drinking window: 2023-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Fanti, Vigna la Macchiarelle Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 92 | The Macchiarelle vineyard is within the Vallocchio area adjacent to Sant’Antimo. It is a 2.5ha plot boasting vines over 40 years old. Aged in French oak tonneaux, the 2016 is all very reminiscent of autumn with wet leaves, chestnut and hazelnut skins. Intense cherry packs the palate, while burly, concentrated tannins buttress this muscular, compact Brunello. It finishes with piquant coffee notes. Give it a couple of years to shed its youthful vigour. 5,000 bottles produced. Drinking window: 2024-2032 Click to see full details | |
| Fattoria dei Barbi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 92 | Barbi’s Riserva is a selection of grapes from the estate’s oldest vineyards – those that are over 25 years old. The actual sources change according to which parcels were most successful in a given year. The 2016 is earthy and discreet at the outset. Dense blue plum and blackberry fill out the concentrated core, while fennel nuances and luscious acidity provide suitable contrast. The tannins are lively and brisk. Polished and clean, this has a solid 10 to 12 years ahead of it. Drinking window: 2023-2033 Click to see full details | |
| La Serena, Gemini Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 92 | Just northeast of the town of Montalcino, La Serena now counts 12 hectares of vineyards. Gemini comes from a small plot surrounding the winery at 400 metres. It was planted in 1993. Sporting a flattering, perfumed nose, the 2016 offers tobacco, pressed violet and cherry bark. Rich-fruited and gentle on the entry, this builds with powerful, dry tannins that will require a couple more years to resolve. Appealing fennel and tamarind notes bring this to a close. Drinking window: 2024-2032 Click to see full details | |
| SassodiSole, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 92 | Roberto Terzuoli produces less than 3,000 bottles of this Riserva, crafting it from a selection of choice bunches in the vineyard. Maturation is in large Slavonian oak casks. Fragrant floral notes of lavender and violet meld with red berries and clay. The interplay of fruit and flowers repeats on the palate where an earthy tug of forest floor comes to the fore. Midweight with plenty of substance, this is savoury and sincere. The tannins are caressing but provide a confident frame. Drinking window: 2022-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Corte Pavone, Anemone al Sole Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 91 | Corte Pavone proposes five ‘cru’ Brunello crafted from parcels surrounding the estate on the western flank of the Montalcino zone. Two are designated as Riserva. Anemone al Sole is aged in small 700-litre French oak barrels, 30% of which are new. It sports a toasty, oak-inflected nose with cocoa, chocolate-coated black raspberry and clove simmering underneath. Broad and robust, it fills the mouth with densely packed fruit and a creamy texture. The tannins are plush with a firm grip and a touch of bitterness on the finish. A brawny Brunello, perceptively ample in alcohol. Drinking window: 2024-2031 Click to see full details | |
| La Palazzetta di Flavio Fanti, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 91 | Located in the area of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, La Palazzetta produces its Riserva from 40-plus-year-old vines. The plot sits at 365 metres above sea level on limestone soil rich in stony marl. Sweet mint and balsamic nuances fold into darker, earthier undergrowth aromas. This is all autumnal with hints of chestnut and walnut. The palate is restrained and well-proportioned. Clayey tannins coat the palate and tangy acidity cleanses the mouth. Drinking window: 2023-2033 Click to see full details | |
| Pietroso, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 91 | Pietroso’s Riserva comes exclusively from the estate’s Fornello vineyard. Just outside the town of Montalcino, it is an east-facing terraced site on Galestro soil reaching 420 metres. A hint of vanilla overlays wild forest berries before savoury earth notes come to the fore. The palate is robust, slightly rustic rather than elegant. Nevertheless, there is plenty of flavour and lots to chew on - the dry tannins will require a couple of years to yield. Finishes with minerally iron nuances. Drinking window: 2024-2034 Click to see full details | |
| Terralsole, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 91 | Terralsole’s 12 hectares are divided over two distinct areas of Montalcino. In the southeast, Pian Bossolino reaches 365 metres while the warmer Fonte Lattaia site sits at approximately 225 metres. An exuberant Riserva, this expresses precise scents of mint, basil and lavender tangled up with black cherry and plum compote. The palate offers plenty to chew on without being opulent or tough. Perhaps not the most polished Riserva in 2016 but there is plenty of character here and the generous alcohol is kept in check. Drinking window: 2024-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Agostina Pieri, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 90 | This ready-to-drink Riserva hails from a particularly stony plot of 25-year-old vines. It sees a slightly longer maceration than Pieri Agostina’s annata Brunello – approximately 20 days. It is then aged in used barriques without any racking. Vanilla and toasty scents are joined by sun-ripened cherries and smoky incense. Soft in acidity, this is plumply packed with fruit. Accents of tarragon and clove interject. Smooth tannins glide across the palate providing a sandy grip on the finish. Definitely some hefty alcohol here. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Ridolfi, Mercatale Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 90 | Ridolfi’s vineyards are located in the Mercatali area of Montalcino’s northeast. The clay-based soil is rich in marine fossils. A parcel selection of the best bunches, the Riserva sees a long 60-day maceration. It is pale garnet in colour with equal lightness and restraint on the palate. Pretty flavours of red currants, flint and pepper echo the aromas. A racy backbone runs through this mid-weight, subtle Riserva. Soft tannins will carry this over the next seven to eight years. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Biondi-Santi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2015 | 94 | The 2015 Riserva was born during the brief period between Franco Biondi Santi’s death and subsequent acquisition by luxury company EPI in 2016. Looking to make more accessible wines, Franco’s son Jacopo started picking on 21 September. By the estate’s historic standards, this is relatively late. The outcome is a generous and weighty expression that is less bracing than usual. It coats the mouth without being heavy and is hemmed in by firm, steely tannins. Sweet tobacco and bay leaf punctuate ripe red cherry and lead to a pleasant bitter twist on the finish. Drinking window: 2024-2039 Click to see full details | |
| Le Chiuse, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2012 | 95 | Starting with the 2010 vintage, Lorenzo Magnelli waits 10 years from the harvest to release Le Chiuse’s Riserva. His goal is to present it at a different stage in its evolution than the nascent annata. Made from a selection of the smallest bunches from the oldest vines, this 2012 has developed an enticing sous-bois, truffle and tobacco bouquet. Its ample tannins have mellowed sufficiently to reveal the complex core, conveying the warmth of the vintage with a cherry compote flavour. Harmonious and silky in texture, this is drinking seductively now, yet there is plenty of sophistication and racy acidity to see this through at least another decade. Drinking window: 2022-2032 Click to see full details |