After recently tasting more than 80 Brunello di Montalcino 2017, Michaela Morris has given her full verdict on the new vintage.
Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines including five late releases from the 2016 vintage.
Just a few months after the release of the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino and 2015 Riserva, the growers’ consortium decided to move forward its annual ‘Benvenuto Brunello’ event. The official preview tasting, which previously took place in February - at the same time as Tuscany’s other key DOCGs - convened in November to showcase the 2017 vintage of Brunello and 2016 vintage of Brunello Riserva.
The decision was not without controversy but ultimately it served as a true foretaste, as the wines have only just been unleashed on the market this January.
Leading up to the event, I couldn’t help but wonder how the 2017 Brunello would perform so shortly after the stunning spectacle of the 2016s. These neighbouring years clearly demonstrate that vintage variation still reigns, despite the warming climate. They also illustrate that in Montalcino, location counts.
Taking these new releases side by side, the 2017 Brunellos are best embraced for their immediacy, whereas the 2016 Riservas deserve a place in the cellar.
| Producer | Appellation | Score | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Il Marroneto, Madonna delle Grazie | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 95 | While Alessandro Mori reports a decrease in production of approximately 13 to 14% in 2017, he did not sacrifice his distinct and exceptional Madonna delle Grazie bottling. This single-vineyard selection is breathtakingly enticing. Autumnal in persona, it conveys wet leaves, smoke and very subtle spice as aromas float from the glass. You feel the warmth in the dried violet and baked brick notes but otherwise it is fresh cherries and red currants that fill the mouth. As elegantly structured as it is eloquent, long lean tannins stretch across the palate of this enigmatically seductive Brunello, finishing with a touch of paprika. Drinking window: 2023-2032 Click to see full details | |
| Le Chiuse | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 95 | Lorenzo Magnelli opted to pick early to avoid opulence in 2017. Along with gentler punch-downs and fewer pump-overs, he aged the wine for less time in wood – 30 months rather than 36 – as he felt it didn’t need too much oxygen. Vibrancy of expression is palpable in the tangle of spices, woodland berries, earthy mushroom and forest growth. The palate is sturdy but not aggressive as well-composed tannins sweep across the palate. Perhaps all that's missing in the 2017 is the extra detail and length of some of the previous vintages. Drinking window: 2023-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Canalicchio di Sopra | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Canalicchio di Sopra began harvesting Brunello on 25 September - just one day earlier than in 2016. Francesco Ripaccioli credits the significant diurnal temperature differences during the preceding month for measured ripening as well as preservation of acidity. The estate Brunello, which is a blend of vineyards in the Montosoli and Canalicchio zones, starts with smoky, flinty notes then gives way to intense herb blossoms. The palate is where it really struts its stuff at the moment, particularly the texture. It grips confidently in all the right places. Packed with flavours of small forest berries and dusty gravel, it finishes with a refreshing salty kick. Drinking window: 2023-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Canalicchio di Sopra, La Casaccia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Within the Canalicchio area, the Casaccia vineyard boasts a high clay content, which helped curb water stress in 2017. As with all Canalicchio di Sopra’s wines, the grapes were double-sorted to remove any green or sun-dried berries. Pristine in aromas and flavours, this offers clove, cardamom, mint and sweet dark earth on a backdrop of black cherries. The ample, mouth-filling palate is hemmed in by compact, sandy tannins. Underlying succulence makes this quite moreish. Drinking window: 2024-2032 Click to see full details | |
| Conti Costanti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Andrea Costanti has crafted an appetising and characterful 2017, expressive without being over-exuberant or pushed. He reports doing more extraction than usual, with extended post-fermentation macerations as skins were thick and healthy. The tannins are textured and gritty without being green or bitter. While this doesn’t have the profoundness of 2016 or the silkiness of 2015 there is much charm in its vigour. Polished wood, subtle smoke, plum and bay leaf emerge from a backdrop of dry, dusty earth while concentrated acidity keeps it vibrant. One of the stars of the vintage. Drinking window: 2023-2032 Click to see full details | |
| Gianni Brunelli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Proprietor Laura Vacca has crafted one of the top wines of the vintage from her high-altitude vineyards in the southeast- and northwest-facing plots just north of the town of Montalcino. It illustrates the warmth and dryness of the vintage without sacrificing precision or depth. Starting with macerated blueberry and cedar, this moves through marjoram, tarragon and fennel tea. It spreads across the palate sumptuously, dripping with dark wild forest berries. Soft, powdery tannins provide framework while uplifting acidity carries it all, finishing with concentrated citrus peel. Drinking window: 2023-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Le Potazzine | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Le Potazzine is run by Gigliola Giannetti and her daughters Viola and Sofia. Viola started taking over winemaking responsibilities in 2017 at the age of 24. She continues with the estate’s long-established approach of spontaneous fermentations in open top vats, lengthy macerations, no filtering and low SO2. I always find the wines a bit wild at first before an intense purity comes through. The 2017 reveals balsamic notes of sun-dried thyme and herb flowers before floral accents take over. It's a relatively powerful expression for Le Potazzine but ultimately expresses the property’s signature elegance. Grainy, sandy tannins wrap around ripe strawberry fruit, leading to a lingering finish of potpourri and orange. Drinking window: 2023-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie, Casanovina Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Located directly beside the cellar of the historic Baricci estate, Le Ragnaie’s Montosoli holding is a 1ha, east-facing plot at 300 metres above sea level. It impresses immediately, exhibiting enormous depth on the nose. Plums, violets and earthy truffle notes are backlit by bright cherry. The palate brings in nuances of orange and tar, while linear tannins are tightly wound and sandy in texture. The fruit is plentiful without being heavy, overripe or obvious. Finishing long and savoury this is one of the wines of the vintage. Drinking window: 2024-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Lisini | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Located in the southern reaches of the Montalcino zone, near Sant’Angelo in Colle, Lisini is one of the last in the area to harvest. The wines are full-figured, sumptuous and densely packed yet remain wondrously light on their feet. The 2017, which was harvested between the end of September and beginning of October, is no exception. Dripping with ripe cherries and plums, it is a seductive, rather fruit-driven wine shored up by luscious acidity. Clayey tannins wrap around the palate with an iron grip and just a hint of dryness is absorbed by plush, pulpy fruit. This is hard to resist now. Drinking window: 2023-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Padelletti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | With vineyards in the Canalicchio zone just north of the town of Montalcino, Padelletti credits the calcareous clay soil for curbing water stress. Harvest dates and quantities were similar to the average and slightly shorter macerations and cooler fermentations were applied to preserve freshness. The 2017 is very discreet at first – which isn’t unusual - but then opens up with pretty perfumes of balsamic herbs, dry earth and even preserved cherries. The palate is lively and pretty, with powdery and finessed tannins. Denser than Padelletti’s wines usually show, this has more perceptible dry extract but is still ever so classy. Drinking window: 2023-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Poggio di Sotto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | Poggio di Sotto made 50% less wine in 2017 and will not release a Riserva. Maceration times were shorter than usual – just 25 to 30 days for the Brunello. It also spent three rather than four years in wood to avoid over-concentration. Aromas of steeped red berry infused with dried thyme and scorched orange peel make a heady first impression. The palate is mouth-filling and shows lovely purity of cherry and raspberry at the core. Concentrated in acidity with finely powdered, finessed tannins, this reveals just a hint of astringency on the orange liqueur and amaro finish. Drinking window: 2023-2032 Click to see full details | |
| San Polo, Podernovi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | San Polo’s two single vineyards are literally separated by a road, yet even at a casual glance, the difference is obvious. Podernovi slopes very gently to the southeast and is the more vigorous of the two sites, yielding bigger, juicier grapes. This appears to be an advantage in 2017, for the wine demonstrates lovely balance. It's not over-concentrated and alcohol is a reasonable 14%. It flows gracefully and confidently across the palate with a chalky, finessed texture and its aromas are fresh, bringing in intriguing truffly nuances. There's sweetness of fruit on the palate but with good grip and lots of acidity. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Baricci, Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | The 2017 vintage is significant for this estate as it is the year founder Nello Baricci passed away at the age of 96. His grandsons, Federico and Francesco Buffi are now at the helm. Baricci’s Brunello needs a few swirls to unleash striking scents of berry compote, flint and smoke. The palate is dense with berries – all cherry skin and pulp - and garden herbs. It is well-framed by chewy tannins with a pulverised stone texture. Though this shows its heat, there is an underlying lift. The finish reveals a pleasant bitterness, rather than sweetness, which cleanses the mouth. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Tenuta Nuova hails from Casanova di Neri’s Le Cetine vineyard in Montalcino’s south. With a full southern exposure from east to west, it is a sun soaked, Mediterranean expression of Brunello. The 2017 takes a bit of coaxing at first but then cherry bark, cinnamon, liquorice root and gardenia arise from the glass. Upfront, gritty tannins dissolve slowly into a fine dusty powder, revealing supple, round black currants. Citrussy acidity keeps this lively while dark chocolate and mint notes linger. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Castello Romitorio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | To the northwest of Montalcino, Castello Romitorio’s vineyards are surrounded by thick woods receiving moderate sun exposure. The relatively cool setting was an advantage in 2017. Well put together with a graceful flow, this Brunello echoes its setting and opens with pronounced cedar and evocative forest floor accents. Neither heavy nor over-concentrated, the palate is replete with pulpy red berries. There is a succulence to the fruit and a silkiness to the texture, and nuances of pulverised stone weave throughout. Drinking window: 2022-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Castello Romitorio, Filo di Seta | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Filippo Chia explains that Romitorio’s Filo di Seta bottling is crafted from two harvesting periods. The first, in early September, is for crispness and a modest 13% alcohol. The remaining grapes are picked two to three weeks later to bring complexity and greater structure. Neither superior nor inferior to the estate bottling in 2017, it does express its distinct personality: Filo di Seta is richer and showier, with a chocolatey texture, yet its tannins are also tighter. Aromas of rosemary and cocoa lead to spicy wild dark berries and iron on the palate. Despite plenty of stuffing, this remains agile. Drinking window: 2023-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Castiglion del Bosco, Campo del Drago | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | With an ample 62 hectares of vineyards, Castiglion del Bosco vinifies each parcel separately. According to the estate, the 1.5ha Campo di Drago plot consistently delivers the highest quality grapes and is therefore bottled separately. In 2017 there is a clear distinction between this and the estate Brunello - where the former is all sun-kissed and fruit laden, Campo del Drago is like digging around in the woods. Nuances of underbrush, wet soil and liquorice root permeate the wine. It is very hearty without being chunky, wood-driven or over-extracted. Instead, this demonstrates vibrancy, exuberance and vigour. Drinking window: 2023-2031 Click to see full details | |
| Cava d'Onice, Colombaio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | This single-vineyard Brunello hails from the estate’s original 0.5ha parcel. With a northeast exposure, it is Cava d’Onice’s highest plot at 430 metres. Demonstrating greater depth than the estate Brunello, Colombaio leads with scents of dusty rose, flinty earth and peppery spice. The acidity is linear and chewy tannins stick to the palate but are well-formed. Great structure and freshness, with a lingering finish of fleshy cherries. Drinking window: 2023-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Fuligni | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | At 420 metres in Montalcino’s northeast, the Fuligni estate expands over 100 hectares, 14 of which are vineyards. Location provided some reprieve from the heat in 2017 and harvesting for Brunello began in mid-September. When I tasted this in September 2021, just three months after bottling, it was still very closed in its aromas. With coaxing, exotic suggestions of curry and anise surfaced furtively and eventually intrinsic ripeness became apparent. Nevertheless, the fruit remains fresh rather than macerated. A full and vigorous expression with grainy tannins that stretch out across the palate. Drinking window: 2024-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Podere Giodo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Sangiovese maestro Carlo Ferrini prefers picking Sangiovese on the earlier side rather than letting it get overripe. In the challenging 2017 vintage, he harvested in the first week of September. It's a charming Brunello expressing the restrained exoticn character I believe to be this wine’s signature. Potpourri, blood orange and anise lace through fleshy persimmon, and there's just a flicker of toasty oak. Sandy tannins tickle rather than grate the generous palate. Lots of vibrant acidity too. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Il Marroneto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Just north of Montalcino, sitting at over 400 metres, Il Marroneto’s vineyards benefit from cooling north breezes. Proprietor Alessandro Mori maintains a generous canopy to protect the grapes from hail and, above all, sunburn. With a lightness of structure yet concentration of flavour, this is beautifully midweight in presentation. Lifted fragrances of wild broom and mandarin are countered by earthier ash and roasted chestnut nuances. There's a sweet/sour sensation to the red cherry palate, and fine, powdery tannins impart a distinguishing tactile, layered texture. A finale of gingerbread lends further intrigue. Drinking window: 2022-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie, Passo del Lume Spento | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Prior to regulation changes in 2016, 600 metres was the upper limit for Brunello di Montalcino. From a single vineyard which sits on a sandstone plateau at 621 metres above sea level, this first release of Passo del Lume Spento is particularly significant, not just for Le Ragnaie but for the entire region especially as it corresponds with the blistering 2017 vintage. A harbinger of the future? It exhibits fresh aromas of lavender and fennel with warm, fragrant earth and a subtle smokiness. A mid-weight, crunchy, sinewy wine, it tastes of red berries squeezed from rocky earth, accompanied by tangy acidity. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie, Vigna Vecchia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | At a cool 600 metres with a warm southwest exposure, Le Ragnaie’s oldest vines were planted in 1968. It seems to have more of everything in 2017. You can almost smell the warmth as wild blackcurrant and tar waft from the glass. It's a chewier expression than the rest of the estate’s single-vineyard bottlings, though the tannins still exhibit their signature tight austerity. Just a touch of dryness pokes through but there is plenty of fruit concentration to carry this as it assumes a more graceful gait. Drinking window: 2024-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Mastrojanni, Vigna Loreto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | While Mastrojanni will not be releasing its iconic Schiena d'Asino bottling in 2017, the estate produced a lovely Vigna Loreto. The 1.5ha parcel was planted in 2000 with seven different clones bearing small berries. It offers an intriguing mix of florals and cocoa with blood and iron. The tannins are polished without being too polite, wrapping around a core of dense blackberry. Despite its fruit concentration, this remains midweight and tangy, with a mineral, savoury drive. It's well worth seeking out in this vintage. Drinking window: 2024-2030 Click to see full details | |
| San Polino, Helichrysum | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Driven by climate anxiety in 2017, owner Katia Nussbaum is now digging deep into soil microbiology and regeneration to encourage vines to manage their own nutrition and water uptake. This goes well beyond the organic and biodynamic viticulture that the estate has long practiced. From estate vineyards high up in Montalcino’s southeast, Helichrysum is a profusely scented Brunello offering strawberry, red plum and dried Mediterranean shrub aromas. It starts off with a round, seductive voluptuousness before tension builds with nervous energy. Compact, powdery tannins wield a firm grip and it culminates with notes of caper. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Sesta di Sopra | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Located near the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Sesta di Sopra makes tiny quantities of Brunello from the estate’s La Magistra vineyard. Planted in 1992 with Biondi Santi’s BBS11 clone, the 1ha plot sits on calcareous soil at 380 metres. It's typically generously fruited and distinguished by its enveloping texture. Quite compact, the 2017 grabs at the palate with loads of dry, sandy tannins. Round, lush cinnamon-flecked strawberries counter the structure and absorb the alcohol - just. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Talenti, Piero | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Talenti’s Piero selection comes from a gently sloping, southeast-facing parcel at 410 metres. Surrounded by forest, the 1.95ha vineyard is characterised by Galestro soil. While aged in a combination of new and second passage French oak tonneaux, the 2017 comes across as less oak driven than in previous vintages. It's articulate and fetching as it conveys chopped green herbs, tobacco and traces of chocolate. Firm, dry tannins frame ripe, concentrated black cherries with rocky, mineral notes tucked in. A compact finish promises solid mid-term drinking. Drinking window: 2023-2030 Click to see full details | |
| Val di Suga | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Winemaker Andrea Lonardi decided not to bottle Val di Suga’s three selections in 2017, producing instead one single Brunello. He also kept fermentation temperatures to a modest 25 to 27°C to preserve freshness and did a long post-fermentation maceration to soften the tannins. The resulting wine allies intense ripeness with brightness, displaying flattering, precise aromas and flavours of dark cherry, red and black plum, Mediterranean herbs, lavender and orange oil. It has splendid depth with a polished framework, while appetising juiciness keeps this lively. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Altesino, Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Altesino’s Montosoli ratchets it up a few notches from the estate bottling. Due to recent replanting, vines average 10 years of age, and the grapes were harvested the third week of September in 2017. It is bright, energetic and intriguing in its aromas of scented violet and balsamic herbs. Layers of powdery tannins build up but there is stuffing to match. Pomegranate notes emerge on the long, lingering finish. 15,000 bottles produced. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Caparzo, La Casa | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | While Caparzo’s estate Brunello is fruity in its appeal, the Vigna La Casa bottling illustrates an earthier, more mineral countenance. It hails from the Montosoli cru, where proprietor Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini owns a 5ha south- to southeast-facing plot. In 2017, the grapes were brought in on 15 September. Restrained aromas show a brightness of red cherry deepened by cedar and forest floor. This echoes the soft structure of the regular Brunello but shows slightly more grip and verve. Notes of orange lend freshness and it finishes with a touch of flinty stone. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Corte Pavone, Fiore del Vento | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Fiore del Vento hails from a particularly stony, calcareous site at 450 to 500 metres above sea level. Of Corte Pavone’s three cru offerings in 2017, it seems to be the most expressive of site rather than winemaking. The nose is discreet at first with a whiff of cedar forest. Captivating truffle, dusty earth and lavender scents join in. Exuberant and plentiful in fruit, it sports ripe and robust tannins that cling to the palate. The generous 15% alcohol is absorbed into its layers and mineral notes linger persistently. Drinking window: 2024-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Cortonesi, La Mannella | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | In 2017, Tommaso Cortonesi reduced maceration time (no more than 20 days) and kept fermentation temperatures relatively low, at between 26 to 30°C, to avoid extracting bitter or harsh tannins. From vineyards in Montalcino’s north, La Mannella demonstrates admirable finesse. Scents of rosemary and mint blossom weave through cherry and pomegranate. The palate is polished yet firm and boasts an appealing mineral stoniness. Still youthfully vigorous, this should develop harmoniously over the next seven to eight years. Drinking window: 2022-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Canalicchio Franco, Pacenti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Below the town of Montalcino in Canalicchio, Franco Pacenti’s vineyards extend over 10 hectares on predominantly clay soil. It's an area that once struggled to ripen Sangiovese but in the hot, dry conditions of 2017, the estate’s Brunello fared well. Up front in violet, lavender, thyme and liquorice root, it is fragrant and compelling, while succulent red plum fills the mouth and is hemmed in by dry - though not drying - tannins. There's a lot to like here. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| La Magia, Ciliegio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | La Magia harvested a full three weeks earlier than usual, even ahead of the torrid 2003 vintage. Despite lower production overall and no Riserva, the estate still managed to come out with its 1,080-bottle Ciliegio selection. A hefty 80% new wood gives an overt toastiness with smoky incense, clove, cedar and vanilla wafting from the glass. Though polished, the tannins are front and centre, needing time to settle in. Underneath the oak sheen, glossy cherries infused with lavender and heather carry through the medium finish. Quite a strapping Brunello but well-played. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Pietroso | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Pietroso is comprised of three small vineyards in distinct areas of Montalcino: one surrounds the estate just southwest of the town; another is in the northern zone of Canalicchio; and the last is close to Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The 2017 is rather discreet and unassuming, lightly perfumed with mossy green undergrowth and a mineral undertow. Mid-weight and suede-like in texture, the palate flows gracefully, delivering tangy cherries and chalky tannins. A palate-cleansing wine, this begs for duck pappardelle. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Podere Scopetone | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Just west of the town of Montalcino, Scopetone’s vineyards reach almost 500 metres above sea level, overlooking the hallowed hill of Montosoli. The estate has been under the care of Loredana Tanganelli and Antonio Brandi since 2009 and the 2017 is a pretty and discreet wine that belies the vintage. Earth and forest berries are nuanced by touches of leather and tobacco. Pure, sweet fruit on palate suggests pomegranate and currants, allied to sturdy tannins and depth of flavour. A lightness of texture gives lovely drinkability. Transparent and sincere. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| La Cerbaiola di Salvioni | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | When I visited Alessia Salvioni at the end of August 2017, she said the challenge for the imminent harvest would be avoiding dried grapes. The grapes were brought in on 12 September, approximately 10 days earlier than average. Aromas of sun-kissed cherries and blackberry speak to the warmth but there's no sign of over-ripeness. Pepper, sage and cedar add fragrant intrigue, while the palate is surprisingly lean and sinewy, demonstrating Sangiovese’s lightness. Very direct in its delivery, its gritty tannins will need a bit of time but I don’t see this as one of Salvioni’s most long-lived vintages. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| San Polo, Vignavecchia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Vignavecchia is a 2ha plot planted in 1989. The steep, southwest-facing vineyard bears small berries with thick, crunchy skins. Concentration is evident immediately on the nose, offering up dark plum, currant and black cherry laced with an exotic smoky accent. The palate is dense and still slightly cinched through the core, with youthful wood tannins that could do with another year to fully integrate. Overall, it's a heady and seductive Brunello aged in a combination of new and used lightly-toasted 600-Litre French tonneaux. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Sesti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | At the southern edge of the Montalcino zone, Sesti’s vineyards are on the east side of the property sloping toward Monte Amiata. They are well-ventilated by sea breezes and the surrounding Mediterranean woodlands help cool them in hot vintages like 2017. Preserved strawberries and cherries are laced with orange and exotic helichrysum flowers. This is surprisingly trim and linear on the palate. Subtly textured tannins guide the wine effortlessly across the palate. Accents of tamarind grace the finish. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Camigliano, Paesaggio Inattesto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | In the western expanses of Montalcino, the Camigliano estate spreads over 530 hectares. Paesaggio Inattesto, which means unexpected landscape, is a single-vineyard bottling from a two-hectare plot. It is redolent of sunbaked herbs, lavender and macerated berries. Full-figured and oozing with lavish fruit, this is girdled by ripe, layered tannins while juniper and liquorice lend appeal. Ready to enjoy, 2017 is the estate's first vintage with organic certification. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Casanova di Neri | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Casanova di Neri’s ‘white label’ is crafted from the estate’s vineyards in Montalcino’s northeast. The 2017 edition also sees grapes from Cerretalto included, which is usually bottled separately. It emerges slowly, giving scents of violets, yellow broom and mint. The palate is currently a bit angular but the core reaches deep. It hints promisingly at cherry, clay, iron and graphite. An intriguing, intricate expression with noteworthy freshness. Give this a year to flesh out. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Casisano | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Winemaker Emiliano Falsini kept fermentation temperatures to a moderate 24-25°C degrees and shortened maceration times for a gentle extraction. Immediately appealing and expressive, aromas of forest berries, pepper and tarragon leap from the glass. A juicy mouthful of orange and pomegranate follows with almost a sweetness to the fruit. Lovely fragrance speaks to Casisano’s high altitude vineyards, which sit at approximately 500 metres above sea level. The palate is smooth in texture and fine-boned in structure. Attractive mid-term drinking here. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Castiglion del Bosco | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Owned by Massimo Ferragamo since 2003, Castiglion del Bosco is an expansive property surrounded by forest in the far northwestern corner of Montalcino. As of 2016 the wines are certified organic. The 2017 harnesses all the sun and heat of the summer. Dripping with cherry compote, it is laced with vanilla, baked stone and dried florals. The palate is robust and somewhat rustic, with gritty grip and a warming finish. Lots of personality, if not the most elegant example. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, Pianrosso | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Ciacci Piccolomini’s 12ha flagship vineyard, Pianrosso sits above the Orcia river between 240 and 360 metres. It is consistently caressed by sea breezes which surface in the afternoon. The lavish warmth of this southern zone is palpable in the heady 15% alcohol and soft, laidback acidity. Nevertheless, there is focus and liveliness. Orange blossom and persimmon aromas lead to flavours of toothsome red plum and an attractive lingering bergamot finish. While immediate and accessible with mellow tannins, there is enough substance to carry this 2017 for another five years. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Corte Pavone | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Encircled by forest and Mediterranean shrub, Corte Pavone’s 18 hectares of vines have been divided into seven different ‘crus’. Drawing from each of these, the estate Brunello gives a panorama of the property’s high elevation vineyards. It starts with broad accents of cherry, vanilla and cinnamon then gains intrigue with floral notes and incense. The palate is attractive and savoury, showing fruit purity and mouthwatering acidity. Robust tannins could do with another year to settle but they are nothing that a grilled steak couldn’t manage now. Drinking window: 2023-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Fattoi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | In the warm southwestern zone of Tavernelle, Fattoi counts Soldera and Gaja’s Pieve di Santa Restituta estate as neighbours. The property was purchased by Ofelio Fattoi in 1965 and is now run by his sons Leonardo and Lamberto and oldest granddaughter Lucia. The 2017 is a decidedly savoury Brunello, revealing dark spice, leather and saline accents beneath baked fruit. The slightly rustic, dry, terracotta character has its charms and clayey tannins give plenty to chew on. Surprising acidity and a salty tang lift the dense compact palate. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Fattoria dei Barbi, Vigna del Fiore | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Vigna del Fiore is a stony vineyard in the southern reaches of Montalcino. Located in a tight valley surrounded by forest, it reaches almost 300 metres above sea level. Owner Stefano Cinelli Colombini only produced 4,000 bottles in 2017 so as not to compromise the quality of the estate’s ‘Blu’ label Brunello. It exhibits greater fruit depth than the latter as well as darker tones of black cherry and black currant. It's a bit dusty on the entry but ultimately polished, and the tannins remain supple and well-behaved. Well-proportioned in its full figure with enough grip for the next five years. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Il Palazzone | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | While located just outside the town of Montalcino at 540 metres above sea level, Il Palazzone also owns two vineyard plots in the southern area of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The estate’s Brunello rarely exceed 14% and the 2017 is a surprisingly moderate 13.61%. Bright plum blossoms give pretty contrast to earthy brushwood and chestnut aromas, and the palate demonstrates pure orchard fruit. This may not have the depth of the most profound Brunello, but it is vivacious, juicy and charming – not an easy feat in 2017. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Il Poggione started harvesting Brunello grapes on 1 September based on desired sugar and acidity levels. To curtail unripe tannins, winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci removed a small percentage of seeds at the beginning of fermentation, particularly from the earliest picked plots. The resulting wine is a heady mix of allspice, leather and prune plums. There is ample concentration on the palate and a zesty citrus note lends freshness. It's grippy but overall balanced, with just a touch of astringency nudging through. I’d give this another year to come together. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| La Fiorita | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | La Fiorita opted not to release the estate’s selection ‘Fiore di NO’ in 2017, nor did they make a Riserva bottling. As such, the backbone of this wine hails from their prized Pian Bossolino vineyard. An extroverted greeting delivers sunbaked Mediterranean herbs, ripe plum and a pleasant back note of minty chocolate. The palate is laden with plump black cherries and framed by soft supple tannins. Full-figured yet balanced, this forward, unpretentious Brunello is immediately accessible and will give plenty of cheer for the next five to six years. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| La Gerla, La Pieve 6170 | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | A new bottling for La Gerla, La Pieve 6170 comes from an eponymous 1.5ha vineyard in Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Planted in 1997, it sits at 350 metres on limestone rich Galestro soil. This has a savoury edge which runs through all of La Gerla’s wines, however it demonstrates greater precision and suppleness than the estate Brunello. Clean candied cherry, sweet spice and bitter herbs lead to a fully charged palate with extremely ripe fruit shored up by decisive structure. The tannins stop short of drying out the finish. This really holds everything together admirably. Drinking window: 2023-2029 Click to see full details | |
| La Magia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Fabian Schwarz ages his Brunello in 500-Litre French oak tonneaux. In 2017, he introduced some slightly larger 600-Litre barrels with thicker staves to reduce micro-oxygenation and preserve freshness. Such a pretty, pretty nose - the aromas are vibrant, expressing ripe cherry and cherry blossom. Wood notes still need to integrate on the palate but there is undeniable fruit purity. The tannins are quite brawny and chewy, especially on the spice-tinged finish. Give this a few more months in the bottle. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Pietra | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Sitting at 460 metres, Pietra’s vineyards are located southwest of the town of Montalcino on the way to Tavernelle. This 2017 is just the second estate bottling from Matteo Ferretti and his father Roberto as the wines were previously sold in bulk. Ripe, lively aromas of blackcurrant compote and fig meld with leather and roasted coffee. The palate is exuberant and concentrated, and firm granitic notes and citrussy acidity provide contrast. There's a dusty dryness to the tannins and an appetising salty plum and cocoa finish. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Le Macioche | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Sitting at 450 metres, Le Macioche is located just southeast of the town of Montalcino. Half of the estate’s six hectares of vineyards are registered for Brunello production. The 2017 vintage represents the first under ownership of the Cotarella family. An appealing mix of cocoa and balsamic herbs greets the nose. Mid-weight and juicy, the palate takes on accents of underbrush and there is great fruit purity and firmness of structure. The finish is savoury with just a hint of those drying tannins that mark the vintage. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Le Ragnaie’s ‘entry-level’ Brunello wasn’t impoverished by the estate’s single-vineyard bottlings. It shows dried pressed violets and plump crushed cherry right out of the gate, with great purity. The tannins are firm and grippy, giving support to a substantial core and crunchy finish. Riccardo Campinoti finished harvesting 1 October rather than mid-October in 2017. He favours long maceration upwards of 60 days but this year felt that 40 days was sufficient, as he wasn’t completely satisfied with phenolic ripeness. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Máté | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Surrounded by Mediterranean brush and caressed by sea breezes, Máté’s seven hectares sit between 320 and 410 metres in the Tavernelle zone. This Brunello is aged in a combination of 500 and 4,000-Litre French oak barrels. There's a toasty overlay to the 2017 along with aromas of cherry, wild strawberry and mint. The glossy fruit is enfolded in sleek tannins with concentrated pointy acidity giving some drama, finishing on a salted liquorice note. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| San Polino | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | San Polino produces two Brunello and this bottling hails from rented vineyards below the Fuligni estate in the northeast of Montalcino. It’s a lush, humid area with clay soil producing big juicy berries, even in 2017. Ample in proportions with plump, rich fruit, this is buoyed up by tangy acidity. Blackberry and currants are nuanced by earthy root and fragrant balsamic notes. This is lively in its execution and its clayey tannins stick to the mineral-edged finish. Another year in bottle would do this justice. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| San Polo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Purchased by Amarone maven Marilisa Allegrini in 2007, San Polo is in south Montalcino’s Podernovi zone. With vineyards reaching 450 metres above sea level, the area has become quite sought after. 2017 represents the estate’s first vintage with organic certification. Cedary oak notes marry well with baked earth, ripe forest berries and plum cake. While not bracing in its acidity, there is nice freshness to counter the lushness of fruit. Malleable tannins give plenty to chew on but are soft and yielding. Ready to go with upfront pleasure. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Talenti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | With strawberry, mint, cherry blossom and allspice, this 2017 possesses all the fragrant garden goodness that Talenti’s estate Brunello typically shows. Generous fruit captures the intense warmth of the vintage and some potent alcohol seeps through but its flavours remain pure. Juicy and supple, this will deliver plenty of gratification over the next five years or so. Riccardo Talenti reports starting the Sangiovese harvest on 5 September, approximately 10 days earlier than usual, picking before the acidity dropped and potential alcohol became too excessive. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Tassi di Franci Francia, Vigna Colombaiolo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | The second vintage of this single-vineyard bottling, Colombaio hails from a small, southeast-facing plot planted in 2000. While not as seductive and outgoing as the 2016, the 2017 does demonstrate some of the exotic cocoa notes and enveloping texture that seems to characterise this wine. Crushed stone, iron and flowery herbs accent the palate. It's surprisingly modest in alcohol and the structure is gentle. What this lacks in profundity, it makes up for in personality and drinkability. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Tenute Silvio Nardi, Poggio Doria | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | While Emilia Nardi opted not to produce a Manachiara bottling from the estate’s southeastern parcels in 2017, she did release this selection from Poggio Doria. In the northwest of Montalcino, it boasts a predominantly clay soil which helps retain water and reduce stress from drought. At the moment it presents as fairly oak-driven, with prevailing scents of vanilla draped over ripe cherry and black currants. The entry is fairly angular with upfront chunky wood tannins. It relaxes through the mid-palate, finding a graceful flow and even showing some minerality. Give this another year to knit together. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Armilla | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Armilla is a small estate in the Tavernelle area with just three hectares of southwest-facing vineyards. It’s run by Ofelia Perugini with her daughters and grandsons. The 2017 starts with strawberries soaked in sweet baking spices. Soft forest berries follow up on the palate where a minerally undertow and hint of orange provide nuance. Tannins sneak up but this remains elegantly composed, if a bit warming. An affable Brunello for the next five years. Ageing is in 25-hectolitre casks. Just 7,500 bottles produced. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Caparzo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | With diverse parcels throughout Montalcino, Caparzo is able to draw on each to assemble a harmonious expression of the vintage. The 2017 Brunello even includes some grapes from the estate’s San Piero vineyards in the northeast, which are typically destined for the estate's Rosso. It unfolds with appealing and quietly expressive notes of smoky grilled herbs, baked rock and glazed cherry. There is a plush, syrupy orchard fruit sweetness on the palate with gentle, yielding tannins. This is very ready. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Caprili | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Distinct in its spacious, oxidative character, Caprili’s 2017 is open and accessible now. This 58-hectare property is in Montalcino’s southwestern wing, abutting Soldera's Case Basse. Now in the hands of the third-generation, Giacomo Bartolommei carries on the tradition of spontaneous fermentations and ageing in large Slavonian oak casks. Scents of warm clay, baking chocolate and a fumé intonation introduce wild, dark fruit. Clingy terracotta tannins overlay the soft, malleable, salt-tinged cherry core. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Cava d'Onice | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Simone Nannetti started crafting his own wine in 2005 while working at Conti Costanti. Today his estate counts four hectares comprised of four vineyards: two in Torrenieri plus one in front of Biondi Santi’s Il Greppo estate and the original plot just outside the town of Montalcino. The 2017 vintage flaunts a generous nose - a veritable bounty of garden herbs and flowers. Though less focused on the palate, there is a stony, mineral backbone against a background of dark fruit. The tannins are iron-like and the wine is loaded with concentrated acidity. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Cortones, Poggiarelli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | With holdings in two distinct areas of Montalcino, Cortonesi bottles each separately embracing the diversity of sites. Located in the southeast, Poggiarelli’s high altitude helped mitigate the extreme heat of 2017. Nevertheless, it is a more hearty and chewy expression compared to the Mannella bottling. Earthy, irony and baked clay aromas lead, with mint and chocolate nuances joining in on the palate. The tannins are thick and fairly wood driven. While this needs a bit of time to come together, it will give most of its pleasure in the near to mid-term. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| La Palazzetta di Flavio Fanti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Founded in 1988 by Flavio Fanti, La Palazzetta di Flavio Fanti is now run by his children Tea and Luca. They have converted all 14 hectares of vineyards to organic viticulture with official certification awarded in 2018. Meaty and savoury on the nose, though lacking some precision, this is hefty in weight and opulent in fruit with warming alcohol showing through on the finish. Nevertheless, flavours of black cherry, blackberry, asphalt and dried allspice are intriguing. There's a bit of a battle between the terroir and the heat of the vintage, but La Palazzetta is showing promise. Drinking window: 2022-2026 Click to see full details | |
| SassodiSole | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | SassodiSole is owned by Roberto Terzuoli, an agronomist by training who spent five years working with Franco Biondi Santi at the illustrious Villa Greppo estate. His 10 hectares of vineyards are in Torrenieri, at the northeastern extremes of the denomination. This opens with smoke, leather, sweet clove spice and a hint of violet. A satisfying depth of cherry and prune characterises the palate, while the easygoing structure and straightforward fruit purity make for delightful near-term drinking. Drinking window: 2022-2026 Click to see full details | |
| Tassi di Franci Francia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | With vineyards at various altitudes and expositions in Montalcino’s southern reaches of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Tassi proposes three Brunello. In 2017, the estate bottling combines freshness with lush ripeness as scented garden herbs and baked flint permeate prune plums and glazed cherries. Upfront robust tannins give plenty to chew on in this full-figured Brunello, smooth and velvety right through to the warming finish. Drinking window: 2022-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Fanti, Vallocchio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Vallocchio is selected from a 7ha expanse where Fanti’s oldest vines – now 35 to 41 years old – are located. In 2017, only 5,000 bottles were produced and grapes from the Macchiarelle vineyard, which are typically destined for the Riserva, were used for this instead. Sweet/savoury spices permeate the nose, eventually making way for grilled oily herbs. Super-concentrated blackberry fruit and dry, extracted tannins need time to settle, though this will continue to strut in a brawny, muscular fashion. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Tenuta San Giorgio, Ugolforte | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Poggio di Sotto’s sister estate, Tenuta San Giorgio was purchased by the Tipa-Bertarelli family in late 2016. As of the 2017 vintage, the two share the same winemaking team with the talented Federico Staderini consulting. This is its usual balsamic self on the nose, with dusty clay and cherry compote joining those classic oily herbs on the palate. At the moment, it demonstrates structure over fruit and the tannins are a tad dry and rustic. Finishes on a tarry, leather note. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Voliero | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Uccelliera’s Andrea Cortonesi produces a second label called Voliero. The vineyards are on the way to Sant’Angelo in Colle,reaching 420 metres above sea level. He bottles these separately so as not to change the profile of Uccelliera, which is made from lower-lying vineyards around Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Where Uccelliera shows heavy, macerated fruit in 2017, Voliero offers an appetising mineral lift and tangy savouriness of acidity. It is nonetheless full and rich, with flavours of sweet herb and spiced plum. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Agostina Pieri | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 89 | Agostina Pieri founded her eponymous estate in 1991. Today, her sons, Francesco and Giacopo Monaci divide the work in the cellar and vineyards respectively. With south-facing vineyards in the southeast of Montalcino, the estate’s 2017 Brunello unsurprisingly clocks in at a hefty 15.5%. Yet somehow, it manages to balance this alcohol. Aromas are fragrantly floral and joined by orange oil, cedar and sweet wood nuances. The wine loses a bit of focus on the palate and comes across as slightly lean with sharp acidity. For drinking now. Drinking window: 2022-2026 Click to see full details | |
| Col d'Orcia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 89 | Col d’Orcia began harvesting at the end of August - a full two weeks earlier than other recent vintages - and produced 40% less than usual. The estate sacrificed making a Riserva as well as the Nastagio and Banditella bottlings to maintain the quality of this Brunello. It is its usual closed, reductive self on the initial approach. With coaxing, dried thyme, tarragon and lavender come to the fore. Robust and chewy, it delivers a mouthful of dusty sunbaked stone with dry tannins. This is really structure over fruit and will need a bit of time. Drinking window: 2024-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Mastrojanni | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 89 | When I first tasted Mastrojanni’s 2017 in September, about a month after bottling, the wine was very reductive. Though less so in November, it was still showing flashy toasted, roasted coffee notes. With coaxing, forest herb aromas emerge. Despite being aged in large French oak casks of at least 16ha, the wood seems to dominate at this youthful stage, though sweet woodland berries lurk underneath. Tough, slightly astringent tannins will need some time to resolve in this rugged Brunello. Drinking window: 2023-2028 Click to see full details | |
| Fanti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 89 | A stone’s throw from the Sant’Antimo abbey, the large Fanti estate benefits from vineyards at different altitudes. Elisa Fanti, who runs the property with her father says that in 2017 the plots reaching a cool 450 metres were particularly helpful. Clearly a wine of the south, it opens with macerated cherry and vanilla. Intriguing cedar forest and balsamic notes of sage and rosemary emerge in the glass. Upfront and robust with dusty, burly tannins, this finishes with a touch of bitterness. Drink now and over the next five years with hearty fare. Drinking window: 2023-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Tenute Silvio Nardi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 89 | With 54 hectares of vineyards, Silvio Nardi has the advantage of diverse plots from which to craft its estate Brunello. Nonetheless, production was down by approximately 40% in 2017. Seductive aromas off the bat convey sweet, dried herbs, coffee and spiced berries. While the nose is expressive and open, the palate is straightforward in its charms with a slight austerity to the tannins. Heat rises on the finish. Drinking window: 2022-2027 Click to see full details | |
| Altesino | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 88 | As with previous vintages, Altesino was able to blend fruit from all six of its vineyard sites spread throughout the Montalcino zone. Though production was down by 20%, the estate will release a 2017 Riserva next year. Already quite garnet in colour, Altesino’s 2017 Brunello is ready to drink. While aromas don’t lack in freshness, they are mature in nature, revealing baked earth, tea and tobacco. Delicately structured, the palate is accessible and immediate. Pleasant bitter herbs bring this to a close. Drinking window: 2022-2026 Click to see full details | |
| Argiano | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 88 | Argiano’s vineyards are located on a high plateau in Montalcino’s warm southwest. CEO Bernardino Sani credits changes like lower density plantings, soil revitalisation and organic cultivation for reducing the impact of drought in 2017. The Brunello is dripping with ripe prickly pear, plum and some macerated berries but misses some of its finessed subtleties. Soft acidity has been preserved and gives buoyancy to round, luscious fruit. The tannins are easy - though a touch green - and the finish is brisk. Will give pleasure in the short-term. Drinking window: 2022-2025 Click to see full details | |
| Fattoria dei Barbi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 88 | One of Montalcino’s most historic properties, Fattoria dei Barbi has been producing Brunello since 1892. With 40 hectares registered for Brunello, the estate typically makes 180,000-200,000 bottles of this ‘Blu’ label from 12- to 25-year-old vines. Clean, straightforward aromas of ripe cherries, herbs and leather repeat on the mid-weight, easy going palate. The tannins are light and soft, and bright acidity will carry this over the near-term. Finishes with a liquorice twist. Drinking window: 2022-2025 Click to see full details | |
| Casanova di Neri, Cerretalto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 98 | Cerretalto is bottled separately in selected vintages only. It is given an additional year of ageing and is typically still patently austere when released. While the 2015 was almost uncharacteristically fleshy, 2016 is a return to Cerretalto’s sinewy personality. It opens gradually with distinct flint, creosote and smoke-infused wild black currants and thyme. The palate is powerful without being weighty, with chiselled tannins that are rigid but not hard-edged. A concentrated core of black salted liquorice, black raspberry and iron is pierced by tangy acidity. Ultimately an elegant wine, this will need time to express all its nuance. Drinking window: 2025-2045 Click to see full details | |
| Biondi-Santi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 97 | Comparing 2015 with 2016, technical director Federico Radi says that the latter is more balanced and aromatic owing to overall cooler temperatures in July and August. It is certainly more in line with Biondi Santi’s angular, austere style and unmistakable in its class and potential. With the utmost restraint, flinty mineral notes make way for scents of dried leaves, forest wildflowers and fresh mint. Perfectly poised on the palate, this is midweight yet plumbs great depths, expressing pomegranate, fennel and orange peel. While its tannins have a certain rigidity and are decidedly linear in direction, they are not massive. It is a rather sneaky wine that needs a few more years in the cellar. Brilliantly succulent finish. Drinking window: 2025-2045 Click to see full details | |
| Lisini Ugolaia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 96 | Ugolaia is a 1ha southeast-facing single vineyard. The terracotta-coloured soil is rich in marine fossils. After ageing in Slavonian oak botti for three years, the wine is finished in chestnut casks for six months, giving a polished wood sheen to the wine. Toothsome apricot, red plum and persimmon pervade the palate without weighing it down, the fruit offset by a pronounced mineral flintiness and accent of red liquorice. Layers of fine, powdery tannins keep its voluptuousness in check, as does underlying sneaky acidity. Drinking window: 2023-2038 Click to see full details | |
| Mastrojanni, Schiena d'Asino | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 96 | Planted in 1978, the 1.2ha Schiena d’Asino plot boasts a southeast to southwest exposition reaching almost 400 metres above sea level on stony, clay soil. Long ageing in 16-hectolitre French oak casks is followed by a year in bottle before release. The 2016 surfaces from its shell slowly and beguilingly, bestowing dried lavender, sage blossom and mint with a heady suggestion of truffles. The rich, dark red-fruited palate is framed by sandy, dusty tannins. Some heat rises on the mid-palate but is soaked up by plush layers, finishing on a salty liquorice note. Drinking window: 2023-2037 Click to see full details | |
| Col d'Orcia, Nastagio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 93 | Col d’Orcia’s Nastagio bottling comes from an 8ha site planted in 2006. The result of a collaborative experiment with the University of Florence, it also represents the estate’s more modern Brunello as it ages in small, 500-Litre French oak tonneaux for the first year followed by an additional 12 months in larger casks. Attractive and approachable aromas suggest coffee, tobacco and plum. A meatiness comes into play on the palate along with appetising salted liquorice. Long, well-composed and assertive tannins are cushioned by luxuriant fruit. Somewhat imposing now but not fierce, it has a lingering savoury finish. Drinking window: 2023-2033 Click to see full details |