In the past several years, ‘Burgundy’ and ‘bargain’ have seldom appeared in the same sentence. Despite the price escalation, finding value is eminently possible even in the current market of tiny supply and surging demand.
One possibility is to explore regional appellation wines that receive just the appellation ‘Bourgogne’.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Charles’ top-scoring ‘value’ Burgundy 2021 wines
This appellation is nominally at the lowest rung of the quality ladder, but even the most celebrated domaines produce a Bourgogne (although some are quite expensive). If you search, however, you will find superstar domaines producing a wine of great value that spectacularly over-delivers at this level, such as Hudelot-Noëllat Bourgogne Pinot Noir or Michel Niellon Bourgogne Chardonnay.
Some producers farm the less-expensive vineyards at high elevations above the main slopes of the Côte d’Or known as the Hautes-Côtes. These are also included in the regional category as Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.
These appellations can also provide exquisite quality wines that are also exceptional value, such as the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Au Bout du Monde from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey and the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Corvée de Villy from Thibault Liger-Belair.
Another type of regional appellation that should not be overlooked is Bourgogne Aligoté. This white wine grape is widely undervalued since it can produce spectacular wines of concentration, depth and structure in the right hands.
The fruit character is more tangy grapefruit and tarragon than Chardonnay’s ripe apple and white flowers, but the lively acidity and breadth on the palate make this a wine of intense pleasure with food.
Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise is the only village-level Aligoté, yet the grape is grown widely. Marsannay-based Sylvain Pataille is one of the flag-bearers for this grape and he makes several delicious versions, but his Clos du Roy (from a vineyard in Chenôve) is our current favourite.
A bit of searching can land the thirsty collector delicious wines from top domaines that are accessible on release but will also continue to improve with five years or more in the cellar. If you’ve been thinking that ‘everyday Burgundy’ is an oxymoron, these are definitely wines to explore.
Top 10 ‘value’ wines
94 Domaine Alexandre Parigot, Savigny-lès-Beaune PC Les Peuillets
94 Château de Chamirey, Mercurey PC En Sazenay
94 Domaine des Heritiers du Comte Lafon, Macon Milly Lamartine
93 Domaine Henri Boillot, Bourgogne Chardonnay
93 Domaine Belleville, Rully PC Les Cloux
92 Domaine Albert Morot, Beaune Dessus des Marconnets
92 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent, Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés
92 Domaine A. & P. de Villaine, Bouzeron
92 Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, Hautes Cotes de Nuits
91 Domaine Pascal Prunier Bonheur, Monthélie
Top 10 under-the-radar wines
95 Domaine Lamy-Caillat, Chassagne-Montrachet PC La Grande Montagne
95 Domaine Philippe Naddef, Mazis-Chambertin GC
94 Domaine Pierrick Bouley, Volnay PC Clos des Chênes
93 Pernot Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois
93 Domaine Albert Morot, Beaune Bressandes PC
93 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Véroilles
93 Alvina Pernot, Puligny-Montrachet Rue des Vaches
93 Domaine Chataigneraie-Laborier, Pouilly-Fuissé
92 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny
91 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Bourgogne
See further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas: