The horseshoe-shaped Harlan Estate encompasses two steep hillside ridge lines in the shadow of the Mayacamas mountains in California‘s Napa Valley. Facing east, the landscape reveals a great panorama of the Oakville AVA, with Rutherford and St Helena to the north and Yountville to the south.

Peering across a deep valley cut by a fault line, the western benches come into view between black, blue and valley oaks. To the southwest, the Harlan family home sits atop a high bluff keeping watch over it all.

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Kiona Vineyards is the pioneering winery of Washington State’s Red Mountain AVA, today in the hands of the third-generation – brothers JJ and Tyler Williams.

The siblings’ grandfather, John Williams, bought land on the mountain 51 years ago, in 1972, with the first 4ha vineyard planted in 1975.

With Tyler taking over as winemaker from his father Scott in 2019, and older brother JJ having worked on the business side since 2009, Kiona now has more than 113ha, growing grapes for 60 wineries, as well as making its own estate wines.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of six Red Mountain wines from Kiona Vineyards

Kiona Vineyards: six Red Mountain wines to try

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Lisbon has changed dramatically since I first started visiting the city regularly in 2002. At the time, in the aftermath of the Salazar years and then the Revolution, it was still rather rundown, with many buildings in poor repair. These have since been renovated and the city has become a very popular tourist destination.

It is easy to understand Lisbon’s popularity. Even in December the temperatures stay in the mid-to-late teens, and close proximity to the Atlantic means the searingly hot summer temperatures of the Douro or Alentejo are rare.

Lisbon is a city to walk, although it is very hilly so it helps to be reasonably fit. The city is a delight, with many beautifully tiled buildings, cobbled (and sometimes slippery!) pavements, little squares and frequent vistas across the Tagus estuary.

Despite its popularity, it is still great value. The Portuguese are friendly and welcoming, and importantly the city feels safe.

Food and drink

Three important Portuguese culinary passions are: good bread, tasty pastries and coffee. There are myriad cafés, both traditional and modern, the latter serving an international clientele who expect wifi and charging points as well as coffee.

Gleba is a bakery that makes an excellent range of sourdough breads and now has several outlets, including in the neighbourhoods of Alcântara, Amoreiras and Campo de Ourique.

Restaurants and bars:

Seafood is a speciality in Lisbon, especially wonderful shellfish and delicious grilled fish dishes. Portuguese cuisine has long been shaped by outside influences, particularly from its former colonies – Angola, Mozambique and Goa, for instance.

However, over the past decade or so, with the huge increase in foreign visitors, the Lisbon restaurant scene has become increasingly cosmopolitan.

Corrupio

Corrupio restaurant. Credit: Decanter / Jim Budd

A great place for lunch, Corrupio, in the vibrant Cais do Sodré district near the Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira), is a small and informal restaurant which opened in September 2022.

The central feature is a horseshoe-shaped bar with stools around the counter. Chef Daniel Ferreira creates delicious dishes which are perfect for sharing. The wine selection is fairly short but well chosen. Open from midday to midnight.

Rua da Moeda 1, F/G, 1200-275 Lisbon
+351 21 396 1585

Ibo

Views of the Tagus from upstairs at Ibo restaurant. Credit: Ibo Restaurant.

Also situated in the Cais do Sodré district, Ibo is a long-established and elegant restaurant with magical views over the Tagus. It opened in 2008 in a former salt warehouse. It is best to book a table upstairs, preferably by the window, where there are great views of ferries coming and going in the Tagus estuary.

João Pedrosa, owner and chef, comes from Mozambique, and this heritage is reflected in the fusion of Mozambican and Portuguese food.

Although the menu does not change much, the food is consistently good and the wine list well chosen, while the service is professional and attentive.

Compartimento 2, Cais do Sodré Armazem A, 1200-450 Lisbon
+351 961 332 024

Atira-te ao Rio

Evening views of the Tagus from Atira-te ao Rio restaurant. Credit: Decanter / Jim Budd.

On the south side of the Tagus and with great views across the estuary to the city, the Atira-te ao Rio restaurant is the perfect spot for lunch. There are few things better than sitting outside by the water’s edge on a Sunday with a chilled glass of white or rosé, admiring the view and watching the boats on the river while contemplating what to eat. Summer evenings watching the sun go down are also magical.

The cuisine is Portuguese with some international touches and the wine list is reasonably priced. Booking is advisable, especially at the weekends. To get there, take the short ferry ride from Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré district across the Tagus to Cacilhas.

Rua do Ginjal 69, 2800-284 Almada
+351 21 275 13 80

Taberna da Rua das Flores

Taberna da Rua das Flores. Credit: Taberna da Rua das Flores.

Located just off the Praça Luís de Camões square, the perennial queues outside this small, cramped restaurant are testament to its popularity and the magic of Angola-born André Magalhães’ brilliantly inventive fusion cooking. The idea is to share a number of petiscos (tapas). No reservations and cash only, but it’s still well worth any waiting time to get a table.

Rua das Flores, 103, 1200-194 Lisbon
+351 213 479 418

Antiga Camponesa

Grilled snails with mustard sauce at Antiga Camponesa. Credit: Antiga Camponesa.

André Magalhães’ new venture opened in autumn 2022. Unlike his very successful Taberna da Rua das Flores, this is a more spacious and stylish restaurant with 15 tables offering a more traditional format – starters, main course and dessert – sharing or not, as you wish. The cooking is just as inventive and delicious, while the wine offering is more extensive. Reservations and credit cards are accepted.

Rua Mal. Saldanha 25, 1200-259 Lisbon
+351 21 347 1515

BAHR

The terrace at BAHR restaurant. Credit: BAHR.

The upmarket Bairro Alto Hotel on the Praça Luís de Camões square in central Lisbon was renovated in 2019. Open from breakfast through to dinner, BAHR is its elegant and stylish restaurant serving Portuguese cuisine in an international style. Just adjacent to the restaurant is a rooftop terrace bar with spectacular views over the lower part of Lisbon and the Tagus – great for an aperitif or digestif.

Praça Luís de Camões nº 2, 1200-243 Lisbon
+351 213 408 253

Senhor Uva

Senhor Uva restaurant. Credit: Senhor Uva.

Close to the Jardim da Estrela, Senhor Uva opened in January 2019. It started as a wine bar with food but is now a restaurant serving highly inventive, plant-based dishes created by chef and co-owner Stéphanie Audet.

Senhor Uva specialises in organic, biodynamic and natural wines, with a wide-ranging list mainly focused on Europe, particularly Georgia, plus a few from Australia and the USA.

The knowledgeable staff complement the intriguing wine selection. Its other dining room – Senhor Manuel – is just across the street. Book online to avoid disappointment.

Rua de Santo Amaro 66A, 1200-804 Lisbon
+351 213 960 917

Cervejaria Ramiro

Credit: Cervejaria Ramiro

Lisbon’s most famous shellfish restaurant, founded in April 1956, is an excellent destination spread across three floors. Justifiably popular, booking is strongly recommended.

Avenida Almirante Reis 1 H, 1150-007 Lisbon
+351 21 885 1024

A Praça

Credit: A Praça

Situated in the district of Beato and housed in a converted military building, this brilliant, informal food and wine space opened in September 2022, and is both a restaurant and retail outlet. There are cheese and charcuterie boards to share, plus very good petiscos.

Olavo Silva Rosa is responsible for the strong wine selection which features Portugal, Italy, Spain and France. Corkage fees from the retail wine store are imaginative – €10 for the first bottle, €5 for the second, and no charge for the third! A Praça is rather out of the way, so a taxi is the best option to get there and back.

Tv. Grilo 1, 1950-145 Lisbon
+351 912 421 223

A Casa Dos Passarinhos

Credit: A Casa Dos Passarinhos.

Founded in 1923, Passarinhos is a lovely, traditional Portuguese restaurant on the eastern edge of Campo de Ourique. Very good grilled fish and meat is the restaurant’s mainstay, with daily changing specials.

Offering great value, including reasonably priced wine, Passarinhos is deservedly popular with a largely local clientele. There are often queues outside the restaurant on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Rua Silva Carvalho 195, 1250-249 Lisbon
+351 21 388 2346

Close to Lisbon:

Restaurante da Adraga

Credit: Restaurante da Adraga

This restaurant is the only building at Praia da Adraga, a small, unspoilt cove just 3km north of Cabo da Roca (40km west of Lisbon) – the most westerly point of mainland Europe (this surely must qualify as mainland Europe’s most westerly restaurant).

Come here for great shellfish – the crab is highly recommended – to be followed by brilliant grilled fish partnered by a bottle or so of Vinho Verde. Try to get a table by the window overlooking the beach and out across the Atlantic.

The restaurant is understandably popular, especially in summer, so best to book.

Praia da Adraga, Sintra, 2705-063
+351 219 280 028

Terroso

Credit: Terroso.

Pedro and Vitalina Marques used to be involved in a popular restaurant and wine bar in Lisbon’s Bairro Alto. They have now set up Terroso in Cascais, a seaside resort on the Tagus estuary about a 45-minute train ride from Lisbon.

Vitalina is a great chef, specialising in high-quality traditional Portuguese cuisine. Pedro, a professional wine taster, is front of house and will always find interesting wines for customers to try. The restaurant is quite small, so do book.

Rua do Poço Novo 17, 2750-467 Cascais
+351 21 486 2137

Non-Portuguese:

Three top restaurants that reflect Lisbon’s increasingly cosmopolitan restaurant scene:

Kabuki

Credit: Kabuki

This is the Lisbon outpost of the Kabuki Group, which opened its first restaurant in Madrid in 2000.

Kabuki Lisbon is in the renovated Ritz Galleries overlooking Edward VII Park. It opened in late 2021, was awarded a Michelin Star within a year, and offers high-end, exquisite Japanese food matched by a remarkable wine list put together by wine director Filipe Wang – for instance, there is a vertical of Clos Rougeard running from 2016 back to 2009.

Rua Castilho, nº 77- 77E, 1070-050 Lisbon
+351 212 491 683

Ruvida

Credit: Ruvida

With its small attractive terrace, Ruvida is a friendly Italian restaurant in Alcântara run by Valentina from Bologna and her partner Michel.

Valentina’s homemade pasta is very special, the cooking inventive and the wine list features both Portuguese and Italian wines.

Valentina and Michel recently opened Pausa & Crescente, a wine bar/café also in Alcântara but closer to the Tagus. Booking is advised.

Praça da Armada 17, 1350-027 Lisbon
+351 21 395 0977

The Old House

Credit: The Old House

This is an excellent and very popular large Chinese restaurant in the Parque das Nações, the site of the world fair Expo 1998. I have enjoyed some of the best Chinese food ever in The Old House. Try to get a table upstairs with views over the Tagus. Booking is advised, especially at the weekends.

Rua da Pimenta 9, 1990-254 Lisbon
+351 218 969 075

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Louis Roederer’s cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, who could not be present for the London launch, refers to 2015 as a ‘soil vintage’, one that spoke of the deep-rooted vines of what the estate refers to as Domaine Cristal, a range of 45 plots across seven grand cru villages that are farmed organically and biodynamically.

The grapes that make it into Cristal must be from vines older than 20 years in order to express both the chalkiness and salinity of these soils.

Scroll down to see the tasting note and score for Cristal 2015

Anne Krebiehl MW tastes and rates Cristal 2015:

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Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Sarah Jane Evans MW and Pierre Mansour tasted 53 wines with 8 Outstanding and 37 Highly recommended.

2004 and 2005 Rioja: panel tasting scores

53 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 8

Highly recommended 37

Recommended 7

Commended 1

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit red wines from the 2004 and 2005 vintages only, with any Rioja classification of gran reserva, reserva, crianza or genérico permitted

We had high expectations of this tasting. It is well known that great Rioja shows its full potential after extended ageing in the bottle, and 2004 and 2005 are both excellent vintages.

The 2004 vintage is the more irregular of the two. It was the last late vintage (from the following year onwards all good vintages have been quite early, likely due to climate change), and some areas performed much better than others. Fruit selection and good vineyard siting were crucial factors, but those who worked well got top wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the 2004 and 2005 Rioja panel tasting

2004 and 2005 Rioja panel tasting scores

The judges

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW is a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He holds a degree in agronomical engineering and a Masters in viticulture and oenology, is a national expert for Spain at the OIV organisation and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain.

Sarah Jane Evans MW is a Decanter contributing editor and Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards. Her latest book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain is set for release in early 2024.

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, where he has worked for 23 years. Starting out with merchant Berry Bros & Rudd, he joined The Wine Society in 2000, moved into buying after four years and has been buying The Society’s Spanish wines since 2008.

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While the export market is flooded with pale pink Pinot Grigio and Chiaretto, and more recently with pink Prosecco, the trends in planting paint a confusing picture for Italian rosé.

Italy appears to be one of the few countries where the production of rosé is declining, even if there are more and more producers adding rosé to their portfolios.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 18 of the finest Italian rosé wines

Italian rosé: 18 of the finest wines to try

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‘Do little stupid things’ may not sound like a recipe for success. Nor, for that matter, the best fatherly advice for Daniel Niepoort on becoming Niepoort’s sixth-generation head of winemaking in 2021. However, the open-minded attitude and logic behind it – ‘because you learn the most’ – are what enabled Dirk van der Niepoort to transform a relatively obscure Port house, founded by his great-great-grandfather in 1842, into one of the best known and most influential Portuguese wine and Port producers in the world.

Top Niepoort wines to try

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The certification verifies that the business has demonstrated high standards of social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability.

More than 1,200 UK companies have secured B Corp certification, but very few wine producers have completed the rigorous accreditation process. Rathfinny is the world’s first sparkling wine producer that grows all of its own grapes to gain B Corp status.

Co-founder Sarah Driver told decanter.com that the certification is testament to the hard work and dedication of the entire team at Rathfinny. ‘It has been a real journey for us, and it took a lot of hard work, but the key has been bringing people with us,’ she added. ‘Staff from every area of the business have contributed, and they have been key to our success.’

Driver decided to strive for B Corp certification after a chance encounter with the marketing director for smoothie maker Innocent Drinks while on holiday a few years ago. Innocent had just secured the certification, and Driver realised that B Lab Global’s ethos meshed perfectly with Rathfinny’s approach to sustainability and governance.

‘We did it because we thought it was the right thing to do, and it chimed with what we were already doing,’ she said. ‘We felt well aligned with what B Corp is trying to achieve. We were already doing all the right things, but we were not necessarily recording or even acknowledging them.’

Nevertheless, Driver said the process has taken the business to ‘new levels’, as it has created staff committees, overhauled its job descriptions for senior management and ultimately focused on putting people and the planet on a par with generating profits. ‘It has made us question and think about every area of our business – governance, workers, the environment, customers and our community,’ she said.

Rathfinny’s journey so far

Driver founded Rathfinny with her husband, Mark – a former hedge fund manager – in 2010 after they purchased a working arable farm in Sussex.

She did not initially intend to play a major role in running the business, but she is a lawyer by training, and she found herself taking on policy and legal work, while her husband managed the vineyard and production.

As the business evolved, she focused increasingly on running Rathfinny’s thriving tourism business, while also overseeing various commercial areas, and she is now the company chair.

The first vines were planted in 2012, and the plan is to eventually have 142 hectares under vine. Rathfinny now produces 300,000 bottles of sparkling wine per year, making it one of England’s largest winemakers, and it exports to a range of international markets.

More than 60,000 tourists visit the winery each year, and they are shown around the south-facing slope in the South Downs of Sussex, which offers ideal conditions for growing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

There are 45 full-time members of staff, along with 45 ‘core casuals’, who work six to eight months of the year in the vineyard. Rathfinny also hires around 200 seasonal workers for each harvest, all of whom live within 10 miles of the estate.

‘Everybody told us we couldn’t do it, but we have worked really hard to build up our local workforce,’ said Driver. She added that staff from every area have contributed to discussions and panels en route to gaining B Corp status, and ‘everyone is conscious of being mindful about waste’.

There have also been commercial benefits to achieving the certification. ‘When you sell to the monopolies in Scandinavia, you have to have these environmental credentials,’ said Driver. ‘We have just started shipping to China, and a lot of the businesses in China need it too, which is great to see.’

Aiming for net zero by 2030

The company is currently celebrating the certification, but the next goal is to achieve carbon net zero by 2030.

Rathfinny has opted to measure its carbon emissions by the strictest international standards – laid down by Washington DC-based GHG Protocol – which means it cannot gain credit for the 380,000 vines it has planted or the trees on the estate, which act as a natural carbon sink.

As such, reaching net zero will be a challenge, but the team is undeterred. It has already added 1,500 solar panels to the winery roof, which generates green energy for production and for the wider community, while Rathfinny has also applied to construct a wind turbine.

It has worked with Natural England, the National Trust and the South Downs National Park to implement a programme of improvements to enhance wildlife habitats, while reviving and reclaiming areas of natural chalk grassland and creating wildlife corridors to improve biodiversity.

The company has reduced cardboard use by 26%, and Driver hopes to see the industry move away from using gift boxes to present sparkling wines in retail outlets in the future.

It may ultimately need to explore some form of offsetting to achieve net zero, but it would only consider offsetting via a local project that it has control over.

From a commercial perspective, Rathfinny increased sales by 94% year-on-year in 2022, and it is now poured at many of the UK’s top hotels and restaurants, with listings in a variety of independent retailers too. ‘Serious restaurants now have to have an English sparkling wine, and there is a huge opportunity in restaurants around the world too,’ said Driver.

Exports are growing, from Canada to Japan, and the Drivers were delighted to see Sussex gain PDO status last year. ‘It’s a real mark of quality,’ Sarah Driver said. ‘Our ambition is that in 20 years’ time you will walk into a bar or restaurant in New York or Beijing and you’ll be asked, “would you like a glass of Champagne or a delicious glass of Sussex? I can recommend Rathfinny.”’

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Get through the working week, and it’s time to crack open something a little bit more special.

As a companion selection to our 25 wines under £20, the Decanter team has selected seven standout bottles that are sure to impress, all available in the UK and priced between £20 and £50.

Wines for the weekend: April 2023

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Entering the Bubble Room at J Vineyards & Winery in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, diners attending the Shifting the Lens dinner encountered a sensory experience different from a traditional wine pairing meal. The table linens were a brightly coloured orange and pink print, colourful flowers floated in water as centrepieces at each table and the wafting aromas of Indian cuisine filled the room. This was a far cry from the usual understated tasting environment expected in the wine industry.

Chef Preeti Mistry is partnering with J for Shifting the Lens, which spotlights diversity through a series of wine-pairing dinners. Mistry paired Indian-inspired dishes with classic Russian River Valley still and sparkling wines from the extensive J portfolio for the event.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for two J Vineyards wines from Brianne Cohen

A new approach to pairings

Chef Preeti Mistry at Shifting the Lens. Credit: Nikki Ritcher

J, founded by Judy Jordan in 1986, was one of the first California producers to make still and sparkling wines. The depth of the J portfolio – which includes over 30 wines – lends itself to experimentation and pairing potential for Shifting the Lens, which launched in 2022 with three chefs.

London-born Mistry grew up in the US. Mistry is Indian and identifies as queer. They are a James Beard Foundation nominee and Top Chef contestant. Mistry trained at Le Cordon Bleu in London and had two acclaimed Bay Area restaurants: Juhu Beach Club and Navi Kitchen. In 2020 Mistry and their wife moved to a cabin in the woods in Guerneville rural Sonoma, where they eventually met the team at J.

Mistry and the J team created the dinner series as a mutual idea and vision. Mistry’s role was to focus on recruiting chefs cooking non-European cuisine who also had a sensibility for social justice and change. Mistry says: ‘We want people who are about something. Who have a distinct point of view and have something to share and bring to the table in these conversations.’

Mistry created a five-course culinary experience that included Indian-inspired dishes and farm-to-table ingredients – two things that are not mutually exclusive. At Mistry’s two Bay Area restaurants, they went to farmers’ markets twice a week, had relationships with multiple farmers, and made most menu items from scratch – all things that epitomise farm-to-table.

True farm-to-table

Credit: Nikki Ritcher

Mistry shares that in an unaired scene for Parts Unknown, filmed at Juhu Beach Club, Anthony Bourdain exclaimed: ‘THIS is the real farm to table’, after meeting one of the service staffers who was also a grower/producer that Preeti sourced from. Mistry continues: ‘There’s this deep assumption that if you’re cooking European cuisine in a nice enough environment, they must use the best (farm-to-table) ingredients. But someone like myself has to shout it from the rooftops to get people to believe the same thing.’

At the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in late January, it was reported that by 2040, 55% of 30-year-olds in the US will identify as multicultural (Census Bureau US). The importance of diversifying who drinks and learns about wine is not lost on Mistry, as the food world is in the same predicament. According to Mistry: ‘The larger dining world hasn’t made itself welcoming or inclusive. You’ll get left behind if you don’t meet the basic expectation of having a more “poly-cultural” outlook with your wine, brand, or experiences.’

In crafting their Shifting the Lens menu, Mistry aimed to create pairings to make you think and to question assumptions. Trial and error reigned in the tasting trials. Mistry and the J team wrote up pairing ideas, and not one made the final menu. ‘My goal is to create an experience where you taste two things together and get to another place. A third place,’ Mistry says.

‘People assume you don’t drink red wine with Indian food,’ comments Mistry. ‘I want to dispel this myth that there are these prescribed rules about what you’re supposed to have with certain cuisines.’

One of the highlights of the dinner was a single-vineyard Pinot Noir paired with an eggplant biryani dish. Mistry felt a structured Pinot Noir could hold up to the myriad of Indian spices in the dish: ‘For me, it’s about adding another dimension to the dish and creating another experience.’

Shifting the Lens – seeing themselves

Mistry reinforces the idea that people want to see themselves. ‘When I grew up in the eighties, I didn’t have high expectations because we literally didn’t exist in the media.’ Millenials and Generation Z expect to see a representation of themselves. ‘I now expect to see the companies I want to champion doing good things. I want to see my values represented and mirrored in some way.’

Next up for Shifting the Lens is a second series of culinary experiences with Mistry and two other chefs. First up in May, chef Tu David Phu, an Oakland-born first-generation Vietnamese-American whose family hails from the island of Phu Quoc, the birthplace of fish sauce in Asia. His family has produced small-batch artisanal Phu Quoc Fish Sauce, considered the Champagne of fish sauces, since 1895.

Chef Ana Castro will join the Shifting the Lens family in September. Ana was raised in Mexico City but resides in New Orleans, where she runs the restaurant Lengua Madre, showcasing Mexican cuisine but with a southern American sensibility.

Two J Vineyards wines to try

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With 25 hectares (ha) of premier cru vineyards in the Beaune appellation, Domaine Chanson (created in 1750) is one of the leading producers in this oft overlooked AP. In total, Chanson owns 45ha of premier and grand cru vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, ranging from vineyards in Corton in the north to Santenay in the south.

Domaine Chanson is centred around the formidable historical fortress, Le Bastion de l’Oratoire, which is built into the defensive walls of Beaune.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for eight Domaine Chanson wines

Originally commissioned by Louis XI and built between 1519-1524, the tower has walls up to eight metres thick and has been part of the Chanson operation since the French Revolution. Today, the four floors of the Bastion Chanson are designed for wine ageing – three floors for red and one for white wines.

See Andy Howard MW’s notes and scores for eight Domaine Chanson wines:

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The quickest way to get to the Similkameen Valley in Canada’s western province of British Columbia is to fly to Penticton then rent a car and drive 30 minutes southwest to Keremeos. But those in the know relish the four-hour, 350km drive up from Vancouver via the scenic Crowsnest Highway. It’s one of the world’s great road trips.

Heading inland from the Pacific coast, Crowsnest Highway (BC Hwy 3) winds up into the Cascade Mountains and through spectacular Manning Provincial Park, then chicanes back down again into the semi-arid southern BC interior. Through the mountains, the highway parallels a fast-flowing stream that eventually broadens out into the majestic Similkameen River, which then tracks the snaking road until reaching the farming town of Keremeos and nearby hamlet of Cawston.

The scenic Crowsnest Highway. Credit: Darren Robinson Photography

You’ve arrived in the Similkameen Valley, one of Canada’s most exciting wine regions hidden in plain sight. This emerging appellation lies, figuratively and literally, in the shadow of the much larger and more visited Okanagan Valley. Compared to the Okanagan, the Similkameen is blessedly empty of people. It is also stunningly beautiful, with soaring mountains framing the valley floor and vineyards interspersed among the older fruit orchards.

Undiscovered and unspoiled

The valley is arid and sunny, with less precipitation and more sunshine hours than almost any other BC wine region. That, plus the persistent winds that blow down from the surrounding mountains, helps keep the vineyards dry, clean and disease-free. No wonder Cawston is the organic farming capital of Canada.

Another key factor contributing to the exceptional fruit quality is the high diurnal range. While summer daytime temperatures on the valley floor can reach 40ºC, the nights are much cooler, resulting in a longer growing season and higher natural acidity in the grapes.

The bucolic Similkameen Valley. Credit: Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The region doesn’t yet have a distinctive wine identity, but there are some indicators of terroir affinity emerging. Riesling has planted a serious stake in these stony soils, as has Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon.

From just a couple of wineries a decade ago, there are now 12 cellar doors open to the public (from April to October), stretching 26km from Keremeos almost down to the US border. Most are small-scale and family-owned. For more information, visit Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The Similkameen Valley is a work in progress, but it retains a strong collective pioneering spirit among its farmers and winemakers – and the wine options are growing exponentially. There aren’t the hotels, restaurants and bars visitors might have experienced in other wine regions, but that is all part of the Similkameen’s charm: a relatively undiscovered and unspoiled corner of Canada with a real sense of place and authenticity. Which makes a visit here especially rewarding.

Six Similkameen Valley wineries to visit

Crowsnest Vineyards has some of the oldest vines in the Similkameen Valley.

Crowsnest Vineyards

In 2018, siblings Anna and Sascha Heinecke took over the reins from their parents at Crowsnest Vineyards, a family-run winery, restaurant and guesthouse. Since then they have pursued a vision of estate-grown, terroir-driven winemaking. They are custodians of some of the oldest vines in the valley, with original blocks of Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot first planted in 1989. With the family’s German heritage, their Riesling is particularly adept, with crisp minerality, balanced acidity and citrus fruit. Open daily in season.

The terrace at Seven Stones – perfect for watching raptors over the valley.

Seven Stones

After Seven Stones founder George Hanson died suddenly in 2021, seasoned winemaker Dwight Sick took charge at this charming winery in the southern Similkameen Valley. Sick believes strongly in sustainable agriculture and practises light-touch winemaking. Visit the underground barrel caves, unique in this region, and enjoy a tasting and picnic on the stunning terrace overlooking the Similkameen River below, while watching raptors hawking the valley. Open daily in season.

Orofino Vineyards

John and Virginia Weber founded Orofino Vineyards in 2001, after moving to the Similkameen Valley from Saskatchewan. Since then they have pioneered micro-terroir winemaking in the valley, creating a suite of ever more impressive wines each reflecting their unique sense of place. Most of their vineyards are on the Cawston Bench, but they’ve also acquired a high-altitude plot in the cooler Olalla Gap off Highway 3A north of Orofino and planted 1.2ha of Cabernet Franc there. While all Orofino’s wines are delicious, don’t miss their single vineyard Rieslings, in particular the Home Vineyard Old Vines. Open daily in season except Tuesdays.

Clos du Soleil champions red and white Bordeaux grape varieties.

Clos du Soleil

Set against the mountains on the Upper Bench above Keremeos, Clos du Soleil is forging its own vinous path, focused on the classic Bordeaux grape varietals. It’s surprising how well Cabernet Sauvignon does here at 49º North, contributing a distinctive perfumed elegance to the estate’s flagship Signature red blend. Co-owner/winemaker Mike Clark’s Capella white blend (Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc) is no slouch either. Open daily in season, by appointment.

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Owned by the Baessler family, who originally hail from Switzerland, second-generation Charlie and Jesce Baessler’s estate sits next door to Clos du Soleil overlooking Keremeos, with similar microclimatic conditions. The vine rows are planted north-south, which Charlie explains helps with sunlight exposure on these south-facing slopes. From its 12ha of planted grapes, Corcelettes makes around 6,000 cases of wine a year. An outdoor tasting on the upper patio perched above the vineyard is not to be missed. Reservations advised. Open daily in season.

An aerial view of Vanessa Vineyard.

Vanessa Vineyard

Named for the numerous butterflies that owner Suki Sekhon discovered on his first visit to this site – Vanessa is a Greek word for butterfly – Vanessa is one of the newer wineries in Similkameen. The west- and south-facing hillside vineyards and extremely rocky soils make this an ideal site for growing black grapes. The rocks absorb daytime heat, reflecting warmth back during the cool nights, which helps produce complex, intense flavours with notable minerality. Winemaker Howard Soon is a veteran in the BC wine world, and his estate-grown red wines are among the best in the valley. Open Thursday to Monday mid-April to end May, then daily in summer.

The picturesque Chopaka Bridge over the Similkameen River.

My perfect day in the Similkameen Valley

Morning

Start your day with a visit to Klippers Marketplace and Café, where a delicious breakfast of home-baked pastries, granola or fruit smoothies, accompanied by great espresso coffee, awaits. You can also stock up here on fresh organic produce, preserves and juices from the Klippers farm. After breakfast, head down Highway 3 to the southern end of the valley, home to several wineries – including Seven Stones. Or drive over the picturesque Chopaka Bridge to explore the more rural right (west) bank of the river. Just remember that most of this land is the traditional territory of the Lower Similkameen Indian Band, and respect their culture and customs when traversing it.

Lunch  and afternoon

Heading back up Highway 3, veer right onto Barcello Road, which hugs the base of the mountains to the east. After 6km, turn off onto Lowe Drive and head to Crowsnest Vineyards for a wine tasting and lunch at the Heinecke’s idyllic restaurant. Choose from house-made charcuterie platters with artisan sourdough breads, fresh salads and vegetables, and seasonal fruits – all grown by local farmers surrounding Crowsnest. After lunch, further winery visits await nearby in Cawston or on the benchlands above Keremeos. Riesling fans should make a beeline for Orofino, while lovers of both red and white Bordeaux blends will already have an appointment booked at Clos du Soleil.

Evening

The standout restaurant for dinner in the Similkameen is Row Fourteen. Yes, it’s located in the 14th row of the Klippensteins’ apple orchard! You can choose either the Herbivore or Locavore Harvest Menus, or order à la carte. Using all locally grown or farmed food, meals don’t get any fresher than this.

Your Similkameen Valley address book

The view from the deck at one of Orofino Vineyards’ suites.

Self-catering accommodation

Orofino Vineyards Suites

Two modern, elegantly appointed suites overlook the vineyards of this winery in Cawston. Located above the winery barrel room, the open-plan living/dining/kitchen areas are bright, spacious and lead onto large furnished decks. Kitchens are fully equipped to make great meals.

Similkameen Wild Resort Hotel

The closest thing to a resort hotel in the Similkameen. It’s located in the far south end of the valley so is quite isolated, but has a beautiful wilderness setting near the river and an outdoor swimming pool – a rarity in these parts. Accommodation ranges from mountain view suites with private balconies to a unique glamping option in two authentic indigenous tepees, one of which has a soaker tub. A continental breakfast is included.

Klippers Guest Suites

Surrounded by an apple orchard, this two-storey building has two ground-level and two upper-level suites, all with three bedrooms. All suites have well-equipped modern kitchens and dining/living areas, and outdoor decks or patios with barbeques. A short walk to Row Fourteen restaurant (see below).

Row Fourteen restaurant is set in an apple orchard.

Restaurants

Row Fourteen

The region’s top-rated restaurant leads the way with brilliant fresh food in an elegant, airy space and large outdoor patio. The restaurant celebrates the region, from farm to vineyard to forest. Great selection of Similkameen Valley wines. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday-Tuesday. Reservations required for dinner.

The Farm Store

More café than restaurant, you can nevertheless have a delicious breakfast here, and they also serve light lunches in summer. Open in season, check hours online.

Crowsnest Vineyards

A charming, casual restaurant attached to the winery of the same name. If weather permits, eat outdoors on the patio beside the vines. Think charcuterie and cheese platters, home-baked sourdough bread, and wine flights. Open for lunch and dinner. Enquire about their outdoor wood-fired pizza nights.

Shopping

Stop off at one or more of the many fruit and vegetable stalls that line the Crowsnest Highway just before Keremeos (the fruit stand capital of Canada) and in Cawston (Canada’s organic farming capital). Load up on delicious seasonal fruits and veggies such as peaches, apples, apricots, garlic, heirloom tomatoes, corn and much more.

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There’s something of a family feeling about the annual London ‘Tasting of the 2022 Vintage in Advance’ of the Palacios properties in Priorat, Bierzo and Rioja. It’s held in the sub-basement cellar of Berry Bros & Rudd, with its rugged, uneven floors, across the road from St James’s Palace. As ever, each guest is provided with an elegant, hard cover, cloth-bound, gold-embossed tasting book.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the Alvaro Palacios 2022 new releases

Just as with the precision of the wines, the tasting book itself reveals a principle of attention to detail – whether in the vineyard, the winery or in printed materials. What’s more, this isn’t a typical noisy London tasting, busy with guests talking to each other. The tasters here are much more focused. The new vintage is what matters, and everyone wants to talk to the producers.

Sarah Jane Evans MW rates the Alvaro Palacios 2022 new releases

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How many wines can you name that contain over 20 grape varieties? Here’s one: Château de Montfaucon’s Lirac, Vin de Monsieur le Baron. Having tasted every vintage back to 2007, I can state with certainty that it’s one of Lirac’s greatest red wines.

If this sounds like faint praise, it’s not meant to. Admittedly, Lirac doesn’t currently have the same cachet as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it’s just on the other side of the Rhône river and has some pockets of exceptional terroir. What’s more, while the greatest Châteauneuf might set you back £400 a bottle, you can find Vin de Monsieur le Baron for closer to £40.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for verticals of Vin de Monsieur le Baron and Vin de Madame la Comtesse

See the full verticals for Vin de Madame la Comtesse and Vin de Monsieur le Baron:

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Mattia Spedicato, wine manager at Michelin three-star Geranium in Copenhagen (No1 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 list), impressed producers last October in Sicily when he confessed that two-thirds of the restaurant’s wine list is dedicated to white wines: in the past, an old vintage of a Chardonnay, a Fiano or a Trebbiano was presumed unsellable as consumers were wary of white wines more than a year or two old.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 of Italy’s finest white wines

‘Fine white wines are lacking in Italy,’ stated Antinori’s CEO Renzo Cotarella during the launch of a new top-shelf Chardonnay, Nibbio, produced at the company’s Umbrian estate Castello della Sala, also the source of the prestigious Cervaro della Sala.

20 of Italy’s finest white wines tasted & rated

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From child-friendly activities through to cellar tours and Michelin-starred restaurants, the below selection highlights the best of what you can do in Bordeaux in 2023 and has something for every wine lover.

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When the Prosecco DOC was written into law in 2009, along with two DOCGs – the hilly prominences of Asolo and Conegliano Valdobbiadene – it meant that Prosecco could now be produced in a 250km-wide zone encompassing nine provinces, from Vicenza in Veneto to Trieste in Friuli Venezia Giulia.

It was a vast expansion from the traditional centre of production of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, which had been recognised as a DOC since 1969. Whether this was down to the need to embrace the town named Prosecco, located in Trieste, to justify the naming of the new DOC, or that the minister of agriculture responsible for signing on the dotted line, Luca Zaia, was from Conegliano (and the following year was appointed president of Veneto, a position he has held ever since), the fact is that these game-changing moves turned Prosecco into a powerhouse whose ascent seems unstoppable.

Scroll down for a selection of top Proseccos to try

But, nearly 15 years on, the key questions are: have consumers begun to tire of Prosecco’s typical apple, pear and flowers profile; and is there more to this area than affordable bubbles?

Broad appeal: the variety of taste in Prosecco

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The land on which Georges and Daniel Daou’s eponymous estate sits has always been highly regarded. However, under their guardianship its true potential has been released, today the source of critically acclaimed wines.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 11 wines from Daou and Patrimony Estate

Soul of a Lion and more: 11 wines from Daou and Patrimony Estate

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The year 2017 was a memorable one in Rioja for two reasons. First, on 28 April, came the great frost, which also wreaked its chilly havoc over Bordeaux and swathes of northern Europe. Some producers were lucky enough to suffer less than others, but even then, the vintage was greatly reduced. In due course, nature revived – as it nearly always does.

The second event has caused more long-lasting effects. This was the decision to introduce a category of Vinos de Municipio, commonly translated in English as ‘village wines’.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 great Rioja village wines

It sounds like a long overdue step to give recognition to Rioja’s villages. After all, this is one of the many charms of Rioja. As you drive through the wine country, a series of strikingly lovely villages are stretched out along the road, each one beckoning the visitor.

A selection of 10 distinctive Rioja village wines

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Clear skies, crystal-clear rivers and clean air: the 2020 vintage started while the world was in lockdown. Going to work in the vineyards was one of the few permissible activities at the time (lucky vignaioli!).

The most genuine producers confess to having taken extraordinarily good care of their vines during the Covid pandemic like never before. No fairs, no visiting importers, no tastings.

Barbaresco wines from 2020 emerged as graceful with unexpected, sweet tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2020 wines

Tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2020 wines:

The following wines all scores 93 points or above

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