One of 2018’s signatures is its approachability. As such, there is plenty of choice for drinking in 2023. In some cases, these represent delightful wines without sufficient structure for ageing and will be best in the near-term to enjoy their radiant freshness.

Tasting notes and scores for 10 approachable Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines

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See our score table for all of Michaela’s Brunelo di Montalcino 2018 tasting notes, plus 2017 Riserva & late-release wines

Value and Brunello are not necessarily two concepts that go hand in hand, however the price band for the denomination is large and the overall quality is high. This opens the playing field for those ‘entry price’ Brunello to be considered under these terms – think examples under £70 that make you feel that your money was well spent, especially after they have been cellared for a few years.

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See our Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

Read Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino 2018 vintage report

When I arrived at Montalcino’s ‘Benvenuto Brunello’ tastings of the new releases, I was not expecting to taste many Riserva. Sabina Sassetti at Pertimali echoed many of her peers’ reasonings: ‘We only produce Riserva in the best vintages, which generally correspond with those that the consortium awards five stars’ – 2017 was granted four stars.

While the torrid, dry vintage did yield concentrated wines with substantial structure, fully mature flavours and dry tannins did not bode well for lengthy cellaring. ‘2017 isn’t a vintage for ageing; instead, it is for drinking soon,’ concurred Bernardino Sani at Argiano. The focus for many estates was on making the best possible annata Brunello.

Scroll down to see all 17 recommended Riserva and late-release Brunellos

So, it was to my surprise that a generous set of Riserva were on display – 35 in total – yet after tasting through them all, I can honestly say that only a small handful truly distinguished themselves.

Brunello Riserva 2017 & late releases

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‘Although location was certainly a factor, the vintage really came down to producer.’

What a difference a year makes! Entering Montalcino’s medieval Sant’Agostino Cloister for Brunello’s annual release, my sense of déjà vu quickly disappeared as I tasted through the 2018s. These wines are nothing like the brawny 2017s – Brunellino (‘little Brunello’) was the expression being bandied around by the Italians.

2018 vintage explained

Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

Michaela’s top Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines: 95 points & above

See our Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

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In the shadow of the 12th century tower of Donoratico and with a view to the Tyrrenhian shoreline, framed by immaculate vineyards and majestic stone pines and cypresses, I sat down in early September to blind-taste 52 Bolgheri Superiore 2020 wines.

Most were still in fairly embyonic states: some had only just been bottled and some were cask samples. Following Superiore’s mandatory two years of ageing (one of which must be in oak barrels), the 2020 wines can legally be released on 1 January 2023 – although some producers intend to hold their wines back for longer ageing.

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After missing out on the full extent of last year’s releases, I was delighted to return to Montepulciano to taste the recently bottled 2019 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and 2018 Riserva. The two vintages made for an interesting comparison in what separates a good vintage from a potentially great one, particularly when the Riserva category is considered.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Vino Nobile di Montepulciano releases

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano releases 2022: Top scorers

See all 20 Vino di Montepulciano 2019 & 2018 Riserva wines tasted 

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The annata category represents approximately two-thirds of the Chianti Classico production and it has much to offer – from some of Italy’s best value, everyday drinking wines to some of the denomination’s top examples – such as Isole e Olena and Istine’s single-vineyard bottlings.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Chianti Classico 2020 plus late releases from 2019 & 2018

The annual anteprime tasting typically takes place in mid-February, but with the rise of the Omicron variant last winter it was postponed by over a month to the end of March. During this period, many estates bottle their latest annata (which require a minimum of one year of ageing before release) in preparation for the Vinitaly trade show in Verona.

That delay of just a few weeks meant that there were more finished samples than usual. Between the many charming 2020 and numerous exciting late releases from 2019, it was hard to narrow down my recommendations.

I included a trio of 2018s not to be missed – from Le Cinciole, Val delle Corti and Castell’in Villa.

Michaela’s top picks of Chianti Classico 2020 plus late releases from 2019 & 2018

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Chianti Classico’s ‘intermediate’ category, Riserva is as rich in interpretations as it is weighted with opinions.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 & late releases

Following the letter of the law, minimum ageing is double that of annata – 24 months. Despite no stipulations about the type of ageing vessel, most Chianti Classico Riserva typically matures in oak barrels of one kind or another.

Given Chianti Classico Riserva’s two-year ageing requirements, this March’s tasting was the first official showing of the 2019 vintage – though there are still many yet to be bottled.

Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 & late release picks:

See all 100 of Michaela’s Chianti Classico tasting notes & scores from her reports

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Despite representing just 6% of Chianti Classico’s output, its Gran Selezione category steals a much greater share of the spotlight – and never more so than at the region’s tasting of new releases in March.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019 & 2018s

With an additional six months of ageing required with respect to the Riserva category, Gran Selezione from the 2019 vintage are just starting to trickle in – I tried the dozen labels that were on display – but with almost 200 Gran Selezione bottlings altogether, there are plenty still to come.

Michaela’s Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019 & 2018 picks:

See all 100 of Michaela’s Chianti Classico tasting notes & scores from her reports

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As I typically visit Tuscany several times a year, it was a long 18 months before I was able to get back to her cherished hills in autumn 2021. I returned again in March of this year for the region’s annual preview of new releases.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Chianti Classico releases 2022

In Chianti Classico, the ‘Collection’ tasting featured 650 labels from 180 estates.

I made a reasonable dent in those numbers, rounding out the two-day event with visits to producers and trying well over 200 wines.

With successes in every category and throughout vintages, Chianti Classico impressed above all with its commitment to organics. A whopping 52.5% of its vineyards are now certified, with many more currently in conversion.

Vino Nobile’s anteprima was more contained, with a blind tasting featuring approximately 40 wines from the most recent vintages. I supplemented this by calling in at a handful of estates, soaking up the landscape I had sorely missed while I sipped on some magnificent 2019s.

Both regions were abuzz with their respective new subdivisions, which provided a backdrop for a deeper-than-ever dive into their multifaceted territories.

Read Michaela’s other Tuscan vintage reports in 2022:

Brunello di Montalcino 2017 vintage report and top-scoring wines

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 vintage report and top-scoring wines

Chianti Classico 2020 & 2019: New releases

Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 & late releases

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019 & 2018: New releases

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019 & Riserva 2018: Vintage report

Chianti Classico releases 2022: Top scorers

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The post Chianti Classico new releases: Best buys in 2022 appeared first on Decanter.

Mother Nature was kind to Montalcino in 2016. The growing season was warm and dry with well-timed sprinkles of rain. Crucially, significant temperature differences between day and night allowed for long, slow and simultaneous ripening of sugars and polyphenols.

In the glass, the annata Brunello exhibited transparency, balance, raciness and beautifully formed tannins with ability to age.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 wines

High expectations

With all the deserved praise, the obvious assumption was that Montalcino’s producers would be unanimous in their decision to release a 2016 Riserva. Opinions, however, were clearly divided. This speaks equally to varying philosophies as it does to the diversity of the region.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016: top wines

View all 43 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 wines, plus two late releases, tasted for this report

See Michaela’s accompanying Brunello di Montalcino 2017 report

View all Tuscany vintage reports

The post Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 vintage report and top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

When I visited Montalcino in late August of 2017, the heat was stifling and the landscape parched.

Banfi’s sizeable artificial lake used for emergency irrigation was almost depleted. Harvest was already underway for Merlot and there were whispers that some estates had started picking Sangiovese as well.

One winemaker described the fermenting vats as jam.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the best Brunello di Montalcino 2017 wines

2017: The ‘desert’ vintage

‘From June until the end of August, there were almost 20 days above 35°C,’ says Francesco Ripaccioli at Canalicchio di Sopra.

More than the torrid heat, however, it is drought that characterises the 2017 vintage. ‘It didn’t rain for three months,’ recalls Katia Nussbaum at San Polino. ‘It was like a desert.’ Moreover, the scarcity of water wasn’t just limited to the summer months – lower-than-average rainfall was recorded from the start of the year.

Though arid conditions and soaring temperatures meant that mildew wasn’t an issue in 2017, water stress certainly was. More than ever, it was crucial to keep enough leaves on the vines to shade the grapes.

Fabian Schwartz at La Magia avoided thinning bunches so as not to over-concentrate the berries, and Bernardino Sani identified several changes Tenuta di Argiano has made since 2013 such as soil revitalisation, organic viticulture and less dense plantings. ‘This helped a lot in reducing the impact of drought on the grapes.’ Still, the estate produced 30% less than average.

Francesca Bindocci pointed to ‘the intelligent use of emergency irrigation,’ as Il Poggione is fortunate enough to have a few artificial lakes on its property.

Producers let out a collective sigh of relief when it finally rained at the beginning of September. There was another downpour mid-month. Significantly, precipitation was accompanied by a drop in temperatures, particularly at night, which served to slow down ripening. ‘This allowed us to arrive at harvest with good ripeness of grapes, polyphenols and seeds,’ shares Sara Rossi at Padelletti.

Brunello di Montalcino 2017: top-scoring wines

See all 80 Brunello di Montalcino 2017 wines plus five 2016 late releases

See all 80 Brunello di Montalcino 2017 wines plus five 2016 late releases

View all Tuscany vintage reports

The post Brunello di Montalcino 2017 vintage report and top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

Sitting at the top of the pyramid, Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione classification is inevitably fraught with high expectations. The question is, do the wines live up to them? The answer is not straightforward.

Scroll down for Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018 picks, plus 2017 and 2016 late releases

Sticking points

Wine quality aside, I was disheartened by the number of heavy bottles – both at the Gran Selezione and Riserva levels. Chianti Classico is a leader in sustainability and biodiversity, with 40% of production now certified organic. The region’s top wines should reflect these values. While many do, those in unnecessarily heavy bottles are incongruous.

As for the bigger picture – does Gran Selezione represent the best of the region?

There is no doubt that some of the denomination’s top wines sit at this level, while others – although adhering to the letter of the law – don’t seem to add anything to the idea of being the highest quality classification.

In some cases, I preferred a producer’s Riserva, or found more value in the annata.

In a denomination with over 500 estates of various shapes and sizes, it is challenging for a newly created topmost designation to achieve one-size-fits-all.

According to Tim Schefenacker at Castagnoli, the classification allows larger wineries to showcase their best company wine. ‘It goes without saying that there are some great wines made, but I think the criteria and definition of Gran Selezione is quite contrary to our philosophy and style,’ he says.

Like various other estates, Castagnoli’s top wine is an IGT. Which means that some of the region’s greatest wines still sit outside the denomination.

Change is in the air

Seething underneath all of this is ‘a smell of change,’ describes Le Cinciole’s Luca Orsini. The growers’ consortium is presently working to tighten Gran Selezione regulations.

The proposed requirements would see an increased minimum of Sangiovese from its current 80% and the possible elimination of international grape varieties.

In tandem with this, is a potential, long awaited sub-zonation of the region.

Officially called Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive or UGA, it would essentially be based on existing communes. Alas, at the moment this is only being tabled for Gran Selezione which represents just 6% of Chianti Classico’s production.

As the above proposals have yet to pass, it remains to be seen if they will be enough to lure eligible IGT wines into Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione fold. Nevertheless, it has encouraged Orsini to upgrade Le Cinciole’s Aluigi bottling from Riserva to Gran Selezione with the just released, excellent 2016.

His decision precedes any official change but is rooted in the hope that ‘in the future this classification will put greater emphasis on territory and typicity,’ states Orsini.

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Top Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018 wines plus late releases:

View all 28 Gran Selezione wines tasted

View all 28 Gran Selezione wines

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The post Best Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018 plus late releases appeared first on Decanter.

Sitting between high-calibre annata and ambitious Gran Selezione, Riserva runs the risk of being Chianti Classico’s middle child. And, in some respects, the category does have a bit of an identity crisis.

Riserva represents 32% of Chianti Classico’s production. According to Francesco Mazzei at Castello di Fonterutoli, sales are booming thanks in part to the success of the Gran Selezione category. ‘Gran Selezione is the magnet that attracts people to try the quality of Chianti Classico, and the Riserva are more affordable,’ he declares.

Nevertheless, among the new releases, several producers already showing 2018 Gran Seleziones were just coming out with their 2017 Riserva.

Scroll down for Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 wines – plus late releases from 2017

How do the categories compare?

Top Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 and late releases:

View all 24 Chianti Classico Riserva wines tasted

View all 24 wines tasted

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Chianti Classico’s ‘Collection’ tasting is an annual opportunity for professionals to get to grips with the newest vintages on the market, providing an opportunity to assess hundreds of wines from the famous denomination.

This year’s tasting ‘Collection’ event is currently touring the globe, taking Chianti Classico wines to the cities of London, Munich, New York, Tokyo, Chicago, and – of course – Florence, allowing the usual crowd of sommeliers, buyers and critics an opportunity to taste these new wines despite restrictions on international travel.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring, newly-released Chianti Classico wines

Chianti Classico latest releases in 2021 include Chianti Classico annata 2019, Chianti Classico Riserva 2018, and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018. Yet many producers choose to mature their wines for longer than the minimum requirements before release, and so we also find wines from 2017 and even 2016 in bottle for the first time.

This report was planned before any of the big Tuscan tastings were announced. In a normal year I would spend a couple of weeks touring the region, visiting producers and attending tastings of Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, before compiling the reports for Decanter readers.

Confusion reigned supreme earlier this year, however, and there had been no confirmation that any of the usual tastings would take place or that international travel would be allowed.

So, with the help from Canadian importers and the producers themselves, I was able to amass a large selection of wines at my base in Vancouver from which I was able to produce this set of reports.

The result is a fantastic dive into each of Tuscany’s major denominations.

About Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico has a three-tier classification: annata, Riserva and Gran Selezione.

Quality has improved dramatically in the 25 years since producers were first allowed to make pure Sangiovese wines (since 1996). Marking another step up in quality, white grapes were banned in 2005.

In 2014, the Gran Selezione category was introduced to much fanfare, although a proportion of producers remain sceptical and prefer to bottle their top wines as Riserva – or even IGT – instead.

Chianti Classico releases 2021: top scorers

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The post New Chianti Classico releases: top scorers and best-value picks appeared first on Decanter.

Chianti Classico’s annual ‘Collection’ tasting at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda is typically a two-day, surround-sound immersion complete with 200 producers and hundreds of wines.

Not to be defeated by Covid 19, this year’s event was postponed, rolling out in several locations this month – albeit without wineries attending.

Unable to travel, I climbed Chianti Classico’s ladder in the silence of my home in Vancouver, Canada, tasting over 120 new releases.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’ top-scoring Chianti Classico 2019 and 2018 wines

The denomination’s three-tier classification – annata (vintage), Riserva and Gran Selezione – makes for a multi-vintage panorama.

On the first rung, annata wines require twelve months of ageing before release. As numerous estates choose to age theirs longer, I sized up 2019 while revisiting 2018.

Top Chianti Classico 2019 and 2018 releases:

View all 48 Chianti Classico 2019 and late releases tasted

View all 48 Chianti Classico 2019 and late releases tasted

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The post Chianti Classico 2019 plus late releases appeared first on Decanter.

After the success of the Brunello 2015s, there was hardly a doubt that the vintage would offer a profusion of Riserva bottlings.

In 2015, the warm, sunny and dry conditions produced an abundant crop of healthy and ripe grapes. ‘It isn’t a year with defects from the warmth – only merits,’ says Francesco Ripaccioli at Canalicchio di Sopra. With ample fruit and plentiful ripe tannins, ‘2015 was a year extremely suited to ageing,’ according to Andrea Costanti.

Scroll down to see Michaela Morris’ top-scoring Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 wines

Top Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015:

Click here to see all 40 Brunello Riserva 2015 tasting notes and scores

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The post Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015: vintage report and top wines appeared first on Decanter.

Brunello di Montalcino 2016: vintage report

With this latest release of Brunello, it is finally Montalcino’s moment to bask in the glories of Tuscany’s 2016 vintage. ‘If we could control the weather by thermostat, 2016 is exactly how we would set it,’ declares Francesco Ripaccioli at Canalicchio di Sopra.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’ 26 top-scoring Brunello di Montalcino 2016 tasting notes and scores

The 2016 vintage

The vintage came together with the ideal combination of rain, sun and temperatures. Winter was sufficiently cold for vines to recuperate, then a rainy spring encouraged healthy growth and bolstered water reserves. The summer was dry and warm, without significant heat spikes. ‘It wasn’t too hot; it wasn’t too dry – it was just right,’ says Riccardo Campinoti at Le Ragnaie.

Top Brunello di Montalcino 2016:

View all 93 Brunello 2016 tasting notes, plus some 2015 late releases

View all 93 Brunello 2016 tasting notes, plus some 2015 late releases

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The post Brunello di Montalcino 2016: vintage report and top wines appeared first on Decanter.

For her latest release Tuscany report Michaela Morris found ‘much to be positive about’ as she tasted hundreds of wines from across the Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano categories.

The post Tuscany latest releases: Value picks from Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino appeared first on Decanter.

After relentlessly cool and rainy conditions in 2014, the 2015 vintage provided much needed relief for growers. ‘It was perfect during the summer,’ says Gianni Maccari, winemaker at Ridolfi. June through to September saw virtually uninterrupted warm sunny days, with temperatures spiking in July.

‘Fortunately there was sufficient rain in the previous winter and spring so we didn’t have problems with water stress,’ says Gianlorenzo Neri at Casanova di Neri. Moreover, a couple of refreshing showers in August and September provided soils with enough water to see the vines through until harvest.

Shrivelled or sunburnt berries were minimal according to Fabrizio Bindocci, oenologist at Il Poggione in the southern reaches of Montalcino. Vineyard management practices such as keeping enough vegetation to shade the grapes played a big part in this. ‘And the few berries that did suffer due to the sun and heat, we discarded,’ he adds.

The only mild complaint regarding weather conditions was that differences between day and nighttime temperatures were less marked than usual. ‘2015 was always warm so the wines are less perfumed,’ explains Alessia Salvioni at Azienda Salvioni, comparing them specifically to the cooler 2016 vintage.

Besides very healthy grapes, yields were also reasonably abundant. ‘2015 was a generous year in quantity and quality,’ asserts Nicolò Magnelli co-owner and agronomist at Le Chiuse. After a 50% reduction of Brunello in 2014, the estate produced about 15% above average in 2015.

See all Brunello di Montalcino 2015s tasted here

The challenges

But no vintage is truly void of challenge and in 2015 this was deciding when to harvest. A number of producers noted that they began slightly earlier than usual in order to preserve acidity (though it is difficult to say what current norms are).

At Caparzo, oenologist Massimo Bracalente explains that having parcels in diverse areas helped as ripeness times varied. Nevertheless, he says: ‘Choosing the right moment to harvest each caused us much tribulation.’ While technical maturity sprinted (meaning that sugars rose quickly and total acidity dropped suddenly), phenolic or tannin maturation progressed slowly.

After tasting over 130 Brunellos, I can say with much enthusiasm that the overall quality of the 2015 vintage is very high. However, at the risk of being a wet blanket, I certainly wouldn’t call it exceptional. Perhaps the biggest downfall of 2015 is that it was overhyped.

Of course, there is much to celebrate in 2015, including plentiful fruit, ripe and supple tannins, sumptuous textures and an immediate drinkability. While 2014 was also approachable out of the gate, the style of the two vintages diverges significantly. 2014 is vertical and slender, whereas 2015 is broad and round. Surprisingly, many successful 2015s also offer freshness of aromas and flavours, as well as succulent acidity. While a small handful of 2015s reach soaring, complex heights.

On the other hand, a number of wines reveal the vintage’s shortcomings. Some are unable to support their heady alcohol levels – particularly those approaching 15-15.5%. In others, drying tannins poked through. This speaks not just of the importance of picking times and vineyard management, but also variation in Montalcino’s terroir. In 2015, generally the warmest, lower-lying sites with south- and southwest-facing expositions, on soils with low moisture-retaining capacity, proved the most challenging.

Other issues are linked to vinification. In certain wines, the largeness of the vintage is accentuated by over-extraction and/or excessive oak influence. Furthermore, rather than cooked or stewed notes from over-ripeness, I detected slightly weary fruit in the vintage’s less successful wines. In these I suspect long ageing, especially in wood wasn’t necessary for the high ripeness of fruit. The tannins of today are much softer than the fierce tannins of the past.

When to drink

Overall, very few wines demand longer in bottle. Many will offer much drinking pleasure over the next 10 to 15 years and a select few perhaps 20. This sentiment was echoed by many producers. ‘Compared to 2014, the 2015s have more potential for ageing,’ notes Francesca Bindocci from Il Poggione, ‘but I’m not sure they will have the longevity of the best wines from the 1970s or 1980s.’ According to Riccardo Talenti of Talenti, good acidity levels will give endurance. ‘How long is a difficult question though,’ he admits.

Typically the riservas from the previous vintage are released with the new Brunello vintage. While a small handful of 2014 riservas were made, not a single one was on display at Benvenuto Brunello. This is unsurprising given the challenges of that vintage. In 2014, most producers prudently opted to select only their best grapes to craft just one single Brunello.

Conversely, 2016 was repeatedly referenced. It was hard for producers to contain their excitement about this vintage, and after tasting a few previews, I understand why. At the risk of setting expectations too high, next year’s Benvenuto Brunello promises to be an embarrassment of riches with the 2016 Brunello released alongside the 2015 riserva (and what is shaping up to be delectable 2019 rosso).

In the meantime, the 2015 Brunello are now hitting the market. There are plenty worth buying especially for those who aren’t looking to squirrel wines away for the long haul. They are ideal in a world of immediate gratification.

However, I do recommend keeping some money aside for next year’s releases as well.

Michaela Morris’ top Brunello di Montalcino 2015 wines

See all Brunello di Montalcino 2015s tasted here

See also: 

Barolo 2016 & Riserva 2014 wines: Our full report

Chianti Classico latest releases: Full report

The post Brunello di Montalcino 2015: vintage report and top wines appeared first on Decanter.