In 2020, Ramón Bilbao launched a digital platform as part of their ground- breaking project to educate consumers about the diversity of Spanish wines. Underpinned by the mantra that ‘the more you learn about something, the more you love it’, the Spanish Wine Academy has been a massive hit with oenophiles worldwide. Now, after three years of innovative masterclasses and superlative wines, Ramón Bilbao is poised to unveil its Spanish Wine Master programme: a vinous competition to end all competitions.

The Spanish Wine Master challenges even the most experienced of wine professionals. It is a pan-global competition, taking place in four key destinations: Spain, Colombia, Dominican Republic, and the UK. Ramón Bilbao is certain that this exciting – and unparalleled – opportunity to flex your scholastic muscles will attract a diverse pool of applicants – sommeliers, buyers, journalists, bartenders and wine lovers are all encouraged to apply. Designed by wine expert Elisa Errea from The Wine Studio, the competition will be broken down into three stages, reaching a grand finale in the summer of 2023, when the top ten finalists of each country will compete to be this year’s Spanish Wine Master.

However, there will be plenty of viticultural athletics leading to the final. Running from late-March until the end of May, an online test (50 questions) on the intricacies of Spanish wines will allow candidates to prove their mettle and secure a place in the semi-final. Fifty semi-finalists per country will then take part in an online tasting competition, hosted by a TV presenter. The 50 participants will each receive a Spanish Wine Master sample kit, containing five different wines from Ramón Bilbao and other leading producers. Designed to test the limits of your palate, only ten finalists will make it through to the final stage. That event, due to take place in June (July in the UK), will involve a tasting competition in front of an expert panel, including Ramón Bilbao’s winemaker Rodolfo Bastida. In each market, only one person will emerge victorious – a true wine master.

Rodolfo Bastida, Ramón Bilbao’s winemaker

The competition is the latest in a series of pioneering innovations from Rioja’s leading bodega, including the launch (in 2020) of a trio of single-vineyard labels under the brand name Lalomba, crafted by winemaker Rosana Lisa. Produced in very small quantities, critics now regard them as among the finest wines produced in Spain today. With a passion for both tradition and progress, Ramón Bilbao is a winery fit for our diverse age.

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The Spanish Wine Master competition

More from the Spanish Wine Academy

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Sustainability has become an ubiquitous term, namely in the wine sector, often loosely used, seldom fully understood. Many wine regions have recently jumped on the bandwagon, in an effort to reassure consumers of their newfound green accolades. The true sustainability champions, however, have been consistently committed to the environmental and social best practices that shape a common better future, without fuss but with steadfast determination.

Among such pioneers is Washington State, whose long history of commitment to sustainability and long term awareness is founded upon both the region’s natural conditions and the culture of its winemaking community.

Nature as a fierce ally 

Sustainable viticulture is a fundamental part of Washington State’s DNA not least due to the environmental conditions that naturally prevent the propagation of many insects, fungal diseases and harmful vegetation. This presented both the opportunity and responsibility to embrace mindful viticultural approaches with a focus on the preservation of this natural balance. Applying the same approach to other of the pillars of sustainability was simply an inevitable step, and one that resonated with the already prevailing ethos.

The consolidation of the inherent sustainable practices took form in the state’s own certification programme, Sustainable WA, rooted in an educational sustainability program, Vinewise® and Winerywise, created over two decades ago and intentionally scalable for certification.

But if Sustainable WA shows the institutional side of the state’s proactive approach to mindful viticultural, winemaking, operational and social practices, its structure is based upon a strong grassroots movement. The individual determination of producers has catalysed a statewide culture of awareness and proactive action, seen not just in the number of certified stakeholders, but also in the multiple, singular case studies of strategic action.

Holistic understanding of present and future challenges

Many of these efforts involve challenging assumptions and consumers expectations by adopting a non-nonsense, evidence-based approach. An example of which can be seen in the ‘World Class in Lighter Glass’ initiative, championed by Kiona Vineyards, that commits to use of lightweight bottles and adopts an educational approach, underlining that a high quality wine is in no way correlated with a heavy bottle.

One of the greatest achievements of the region is to build a comprehensive resilience for the future – the essence of sustainable development. A big part of which is done through the consolidation of a strong sense of community and the education of the next generation of growers and producers. These are the premises of initiatives such as the Farmer Ambassador Program, the Alliance of Women in Washington Wine and the groundbreaking wine research program at Washington State University.

The passion of all Washington State producers and growers is eye-opening proof that a different way of working, with respect not just for nature but for all the resources –  energetic, economic, human, etc. – is possible. May it be an inspiration not just for producers worldwide, but also for consumers when choosing a wine – on April 22 but as on every day of the year.

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At the essence of Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC is a celebration of the travelling, cosmopolitan spirit that links oenological tradition and the pleasure of sharing food & wine. This same passion is at the core of the soul of the Portuguese people and life, much of which revolves around the pleasures of the table and of the many ingredients that, through centuries of travels and discoveries, now form the country’s flavour repertoire. These offer endless and ideal pairing possibilities for the distinct freshness and character of the wines of the Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC.

In love with Portuguese craftsmanship – and flavours

A Portuguese Love Affair (PLA) started as a concept store and delicatessen in London’s trendy Columbia Road. The street is lined by beautiful design shops and truly comes to life on Sundays, when London descends upon it for its iconic flower market. It was as part of this stylish hub that the shop established itself as a key agent of the movement that propelled Portuguese design and cuisine to the top of London’s dining scene, alongside starchefs such as Leo Carreira (who has led exciting pop-ups at PLA) and Nuno Mendes.

The success led founders Olga Cruchino and Dina Martins to open a second site, a cafe , wine bar and restaurant,  a stone’s throw away from the original site on Hackney Road, which has since become the regular hang out spot for post or pre-shopping catch ups.

It was here that we met the two talented entrepreneurs (Dina is also the venue’s gifted chef), to discover how their creations can so ideally be served alongside a glass of Pinot Grigio.

From sea and land

The perfect start is a spread of ‘petiscos’ (tapas-like small dishes); much like the Venetian cicchettis, these beg for a refreshing and mineral glass of wine. Portugal’s Vinho Verde has a perfect Italian counterpart in a classic Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC, balancing the brine intensity of olives, lupins, seafood patés, cured goat cheeses and the Portugal’s flagship canned seafood.

The produce of the sea is indeed one of the core pillars of Portuguese gastronomy.

It’s many iterations – cured, canned, straight from the boat and grilled – cannot be properly enjoyed without a glass of… Pinot Grigio? Why not?

Dina’s superior ‘caldeirada’, a personal, sublime take on the traditional seafood stew, proved even more perfect washed down by a glass of Italy’s most famous white wine, its gentle aromatics and mineral freshness underscoring the dishes’ spices and herbs.

However, Portuguese cuisine is – very much like Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC – a meeting of land and sea. Inland, the country’s recipes gain intensity and weight, with pork meat and legumes claiming centre stage. Dina has a sophisticated interpretation of ‘secretos de porco preto with migas’, a particular cut of acorn-fed pork ribs with a bread-based purée laden with flavour thanks to garlic, various spices, olive oil, herbs and, if in season, wild asparagus. A beautiful and flavourful dish, it is traditionally served alongside a glass of red. It might be a misconception to think that the meat and spices need hefty tannins – the gentler tannic grip of a Ramato, alongside the subtle zestiness of pink citrus, cuts more effectively through the meat fat and brings the spices to live.

Sweet treat

And what of Portugal’s most famous pastry, pastéis de nata, now an absolute favourite among Londoners?? It would be a sin not to try those sold and baked inhouse by Olga, which have won numerous awards and a quasi cult following. Although a thing of perfection in themselves, especially if topped by a generous layer of cinnamon as is the tradition, we dared to try them with a glass of Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC Ramato.

A people with an unusual passion for food and wine, only matched by a relentless desire to always explore far and beyond. A knack for intense flavours paired with understated, elegant design. An ethos that might well have found a perfect companion in the cosmopolitan sophistication of Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC.

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As wine lovers and investors are presented with the opportunity to acquire a sole-ownership cellar of outstanding comprehensiveness and value, we delve into the collection’s contents for a better understanding of its character and uniqueness.

The below are but a few highlights of an incredible line up of more than 5,400 bottles, all of which were curated carefully through years of thorough tasting and research. A combination of knowledge, experience and passion that yielded a comprehensive collection covering the world’s most iconic regions and producers. Alongside well-established names are also mavericks – the icons of tomorrow – making this collection both valuable and exciting.

The close relationship between the collector and the different brokers and producers not only allowed access to rare bottles but also guarantees the authenticity and traceability of each bottle in this fantastic cellar.

Highlights from a Unique Wine Collection

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Discovering Marsala is a journey towards a charming and unique universe. Behind each bottle there are centuries of history, endless stories, and alchemic transformations – a time capsule of powerful flavours, deep aromas and much wonder. Cantina Florio is the flagship guardian of this heritage and has reaffirmed its mission to preserve and communicate the intricate complexity of one of Sicily’s most fascinating wines. With the launch of its new range, Cantina Florio is redefining Marsala by bringing its essence – and many faces – to the forefront.

English entrepreneurship as inspiration

Marsala was created at the crossroads of Sicily’s ancestral winemaking traditions and English entrepreneurship. When the British arrived on the western coast of Sicily in the late 18th century, they recognised the potential to produce wines with the nuance and complexity of their much loved Madeiras, Ports and Sherries.

One such British entrepreneur, John Woodhouse, played a particular important role in the creation of Marsala and the consolidation of its reputation and commercial success. It was Woodhouse that, among other goods traded by his company, shipped the first Marsala wine to English soil. The acclaim with which the wines were received meant that this would be the first shipment of many, and that Marsala would evolve well beyond an alternative to Portuguese and Spanish counterparts.

A unique, complex, fascinating Italian wine was thus born.

Marsala – the crafting of a new jewel

British wine merchants turned wine entrepreneurs catalysed the emergence of a vibrant community, made of passionate producers and tradesmen, that would soon elevate Marsala to one of Sicilian wine’s crown jewels.

But Marsala only became truly Italian when, in 1833, Vincenzo Florio (1799-1868) purchased land located between the Woodhouse and Ingham-Whitaker factories. This ‘latecomer’ would soon stand out and wear down the British monopoly – by the turn of the 19th century the craftsmanship and quality of Florio wines had made it a synonym with the best Marsalas.

Following the social and economic turmoil of the early 20th century, Marsala struggled, as did so many other wine regions, with a stalled market. An important transformation was possible however, when Woodhouse, Ingham-Whitaker and Florio merged under the latter’s banner. Continuous investment and research throughout the second half of the century and first years of the new millennium allowed for an evolution that culminates, today, in a true redefinition of Marsala.

One philosophy, many stories to tell

The production of Marsala at Florio is understood as an artistic endeavour that requires as much mindfulness as technical acumen. Following the harvest of the Grillo grapes, the winemakers engage in a process of careful listening – an approach shaped by the constant dialogue between nature and technique, between vineyard and cellar, between potential for evolution and intuition; a daily navigation through the art of tasting, experimenting and reexamining. This traced the path for that critical moment when alcohol and sifone/mistella (or just alcohol for Marsala Vergine) are added to the base wine, marking the true birth of Marsala; the birth of a ‘new creature’ that, after experiencing the sun and the sea, thrives in a different environment shaped by wood, time and the whispering breezes of the cellar.

Cathedral-like in their expanse and magnificence, the Florio cellars have an inner geography of their own, which takes the concept of terroir further than imaginable, making the location of barrels an integral part of Marsala’s development. In the sectors closer to the sea the moderate temperature and ‘brackish’ humidity lead the wines to acquire hints of seaweed and umami flavours. Higher temperature and lower level of humidity in the areas less influenced by the Mediterranean breezes endow Marsala wines with complex and various tertiary aromas.

The singularity of this process is no longer the winemaker’s secret: newly-designed ‘storyteller labels’ trace the path of the wine from grape to cellar, defining a map of its character and evolution. They invite the drinker to become part of this journey whilst delving into the process that preceded that magic moment when the lips touch the precious nectar.

Florio’s new Marsala collection

Florio’s new collection offers a unique overview of the complexity and diversity that defines Marsala – because indeed Marsala is not a style, but an artistic endeavour in which craftsmanship, nature and time conspire to create uniqueness in each barrel.

A comprehensive panorama of the different styles and inner geographies of Marsala Florio, allowing different journeys through time – from the 2017 Marsala Superiore to the very rare Marsala Superiore Riserva of 1994 – and space – exploring the distance that the barrels have had from the sea, the natural element that powerfully influences the complex ageing dynamics of Marsala Florio.

The range includes gentler expressions, produced in larger numbers of bottles (Classic and Premium), as well as extremely rare, limited edition highly-collectible pieces (Exclusive).

Classic

• Marsala Vergine Riserva 2009 – VR1609
• Marsala Superiore Secco 2016 – SS1516
• Marsala Superiore Riserva Semisecco 2015 – SR2715
• Marsala Superiore Dolce 2017 – SD1217

Premium

• Marsala Superiore Riserva Semisecco 2007 -SR0207
• Marsala Vergine Riserva 2004 – VR0504

Exclusive

• Marsala Superiore Riserva Semisecco 2001 – SR0301
• Marsala Superiore Riserva Secco 2000 – SS0900
• Marsala Vergine Riserva 1998 – VR1898
• Marsala Superiore Riserva Dolce 1994 – SD0294

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The long-established Lombardy family of Gussalli Beretta, known for five centuries of entrepreneurial leadership, have always been engaged in agriculture producing, amongst other things, small quantities of wine for their own use. This passion took a clear shape in 1974, with the foundation of the wine estate at the family property in Franciacorta and, in the years that followed, with the creation of a group of wineries which extends from the Alto Adige to the Langhe and from Chianti Classico to Abruzzo.  The below is a selection of the current releases from three of the estates, all in top DOCGs and each showcasing the Gussalli Beretta dedication to the expression of terroir and the sense of place.

Lo Sparviere, Monticelli Brusati, Franciacorta

Lo sparviere is the sparrowhawk sculpted on the monumental fireplace of the hall of the 16th century villa of the Gussalli Beretta family, which gives its name to the estate. The property (pictured above) counts 30ha of vineyard on slopes in the eastern corner of the DOCG, planted principally to Chardonnay and managed organically since 2013. The soils, which give the Sparviere wines their structure and longevity, are calcareous marls typical of the pre-alpine chain of Lombardy, but rare in the Franciacorta area south of Lake Iseo. The complexity of the house style, on the other hand, comes from the separate vinification of up to 15 different plots assembled in the final cuvées.
For more information visit losparviere.it

Lo Spaviere Franciacorta Brut Millesimato 2016
96 points
This classic blanc de blancs is made from low yield, hand-selected grapes from the estate’s vineyards at Provaglio d’Iseo. Four years on the lees has produced a rich mousse, super-fine perlage and complex, mature aromas which open with buttered toast and follow through with notes of honey and beeswax, sweet herbs, fresh apricot and citrus peel. The palate has a lovely round, creamy texture, but also firm underlying structure and a finish which contrasts tangy sapidity with a delicate note of liqueur.
Drink 2023-2028.

Castello di Radda, Radda, Chianti Classico

Radda is one of Chianti Classico’s most fascinating terroirs and the source of wines with an unmistakable character which derives both from the lean calcareous-clay soils and also – perhaps above all – from the climate. Altitudes stretching up to 450m and the proximity of the Monti del Chianti make Radda one of the coolest and last-picked growing areas of the denomination. Gussalli Beretta arrived here in 2003, replanted the vineyards and built state-of-the-art underground cellars with the aim of creating a range of wines which speak of this unique terroir. The organic-certified estate extends over 40ha, in an area of rugged beauty and extreme biodiversity – Radda is the most densely wooded comune of the entire DOCG.
For more information visit www.castellodiradda.it

Castello di Radda, Chianti Classico 2020
95 points
This is a young Chianti Classico with all the nervy energy of the wines of Radda. Bright in the glass, the nose opens with damson and black cherry, a touch of earthiness. In the background there’s the hint of iris typical of cooler climate Sangiovese. Powdery fine tannins bring texture to the palate, underscored by an acidity which gives the wine a lovely juicy quality. Bone dry, tangy finish with a return of the plummy fruit. Drink 2023-2026

Castello di Radda, Chianti Classico Riserva 2016
97 points
Here one sees the complexity and depth of flavours of a Riserva from a great vintage. There are wild berries on the nose, a touch of newsprint and the delicate sweet spices of the perfectly judged handling of the oak.  Seamless integration of the tannins gives suppleness to the palate and the succulent acidity a progression towards a long aromatic finish. Thoroughbred Sangiovese, drinking now but with no fear of further bottle time.
Drink 2023-2030

Fortemasso, Monforte d’Alba

Castelletto MGA

Gussalli Beretta acquired this estate in the prestigious comune of Monforte d’Alba in 2013. The original vineyards were maintained, but completely new, eco-sensitive, underground cellars were built and entered into production in the same year. The property extends over 5ha on the top and central slopes of the Castelletto MGA, faces east across the valley towards Serralunga, and includes 1ha in the historic cru of Pressenda. It counts a further 3ha in San Sebastiano di Monforte d’Alba. The high sand content of the Arenaria di Diano soils gives the wines a characteristic sapidity and finesse which is carefully nurtured in the vinification and ageing through submerged cap maceration and the judicious mix of barriques and larger casks.
For more information visit www.fortemasso.it

Fortemasso, Barolo Castelletto 2017
95 points
A nose of medium intensity and great purity opens with notes of moss and violets, and there is a hint of slightly smoky, charred steak before the wild berries emerge. The palate has the soft, round tannins of the vintage and bags of energy in the progression towards a warm, grippy finish with a return of the ripe fruit and a touch of aniseed. Great drinkability. Ready now, but no hurry to open a bottle which will continue to develop in the mid-term.
Drink 2023-2027

Fortemasso, Barolo Castelletto Riserva 2016
98 points
The nose opens slowly, but then reveals all the classic descriptors of a Barolo from a superb vintage in which bright fruit mingles with aromas of laurel, wood ash, camphor and a touch of white pepper. There is restrained energy in the beautifully balanced palate and great length in the concentrated aromatic finish. A wine which combines power and finesse, with the sleekness of contemporary Barolo. Drinking now, but with notable ageing potential.
Drink 2023-2030

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The recognition of Spain’s premium wines has arrived at a crucial moment. As consumer awareness of Spanish wine diversity continues to grow, the scope to encourage further premiumisation across different appellations and categories is unprecedented.

Virgen de las Viñas, situated in the up-and-coming region of Castilla la Mancha, is ideally positioned to take advantage of this cultural shift. The label was founded in 1961, after 15 families decided to join forces to build a better future for all. Today,  the winery encompasses over 3000 winegrowers and 25000 hectares of prime vineyards. It is a Spanish wine icon that is making waves; since the late 1990s, La Mancha has undergone a process of dramatic change, with significant investment transforming the arid landscape of the meseta – the high plateau south of Madrid – and Virgen de las Viñas is playing a key role in this quality revolution.

Quality and diversity

It is here, in this timeless scene (La Mancha invokes the backdrop Cervantes’ Don Quixote), that Virgen de las Viñas chases viticultural perfection. With a broad palate of styles available – including young and oak-aged wine, organic, and sparkling – the brand has a global reach, with distribution in Asia, Europe, South America, and the US. Moreover, the winery also markets a delectable brand of organic olive oil.

The wines of Virgen de las Viñas come in many guises. Sentir is the company’s organic label, while Tomillar has long been its most iconic brand, established over 50 years ago.  A range of excellent single-varietal wines, meanwhile, are marketed as Octavo Arte, of which the crisp dry Verdejo white has proven to be especially popular abroad. Yet the summit of achievement is reached with Lienzo, a prestige brand that utilises fruit from the region’s finest, low-yielding vineyards. Concentrated, powerful, and structured, this premium red blend has emerged as one of the region’s top prestige brands.

Much more than wine

Virgen de las Viñas is also firmly committed to welcoming visitors from across the globe with a warm Spanish ‘¡bienvenidos!’. In addition to its tasting facilities, the winery boasts a fascinating  ethnological museum (the study of different cultures) and a space dedicated to modern art.  Every year, the winery invites an eclectic range of artists to visit La Mancha and showcase their work. Like the wines of Virgen de las Viñas, their masterpieces are diverse, vibrant, and accessible to all: a perfect synergy of oenological and cultural expression. In a world where consumers demand a great deal of their favourite brands, Virgen de las Viñas is always striving to give more.

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Only a handful of wineries among the global fine wine elite are true ambassadors for the terroir they hail from and of its respective flagship grapes. Achaval Ferrer no doubt stands as the flag-bearer for Malbec and Mendoza, which have a benchmark expression in the estate’s three iconic single vineyards bottlings: Finca Bella Vista, Finca Mirador and Finca Altamira.

Two decades of excellence

Since their inaugural vintage, in 1999, these Malbecs have offered a privileged insight into the complexity of three of the most singular terroirs in Mendoza. Their quality, expressiveness and age-worthiness raised firmly places Argentina in the sphere of the most prestigious fine wine producing countries.

With the extraordinary 2019 vintage, Achaval Ferrer has once again lived up to the wonderful potential of these unique plots. Winemaker Gustavo Rearte says ‘2019 will be remembered as a great harvest for Mendoza and for Achaval Ferrer. It was very typical for Mendoza, with a dry, fresh growing season, tempered by light breezes and sunshine at all stages. A vintage very similar to 2011, with rainfall close to 150-180mm and average temperatures of 19.5° from October to April. High temperatures during the day and cool nights allowed the stomata of the canopy to rest for long periods of the day, granting homogeneous bunch growth and good fruit concentration.’ Rearte believes  ‘the 2019 harvest stands out for its authenticity, given that it was a year very expressive of terroir.’

Winemaker Gustavo Rearte

The 2019 Achaval Ferrer Fincas trilogy – a collector’s jewel

Achaval Ferrer has taken the responsibility of preserving a unique viticultural legacy that allows them to produce their most treasured  and sought-after labels. The three old vineyards that preserve the DNA of century-old vines bear witness to a philosophy in which respect for the terroir and minimal intervention come to the forefront – each wine is but a jewel made from three unique gems. Each of the vines in these vineyards are ungrafted historical monuments to viticulture, many of them dating back to the pre-phylloxera period, with low but extremely well-balanced yields.

A unique combination of viticultural singularity and winemaking craftsmanship sets the stage for Achaval Ferrer Fincas trilogy, which achieved yet another extraordinary iteration in 2019.

Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista 2019
Finca Bella Vista is a 113-year-old vineyard located at 990 metres above sea level on the southern bank of the Mendoza river, in Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo. Growing conditions yielded a wine of great varietal character, with a profound sense of place, silky texture and well-honed tannins.
Only 6710 bottles produced.

Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador 2019
First planted in 1921 on alluvial soils, Finca Mirador is located at an altitude of 700 metres, in Medrano, on the west bank of the Tunuyan River. The 2019 vintage is distinctively fragrant and complex, with red fruit aromas mirrored in the flavourful, velvety palate.
Only 4220 bottles produced.

Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira 2019
A 73-year-old vineyard at an altitude of 1050 metres, Finca Altamira is located in southern Uco Valley. Achaval Ferrer became the first Argentinian winery to be awarded a 100-point score from Decanter with the 1999 vintage of this wine. The 2019 release has an outstanding fruity character topped by mineral notes that result in the distinctive profile with which this Malbec gained its flagship status and recognition.
Only 9468 bottles produced.

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Valérie Bataille and Benoit Calvet fell in love with Utiel-Requena and, in 2014, created a sibling company, BVC Bodegas, for their longstanding Bordeaux-based project. The couple was looking for unspoiled landscapes and winemaking traditions, and that’s exactly what they found in Utiel-Requena. They work closely with Grupo Coviñas and their growers to produce some of the most successful wines bearing the DO Utiel-Requena stamp.

Experience and passion

It all started in 1982, when Valérie Bataille and Benoit Calvet met and forged what would become a life-changing relationship: as a family and as professional partners. After a stint in Dubai, they returned to Bordeaux to create their negociant business, building upon the experience of Benoit’s father, Patrice Calvet, himself an independent wine trader since 1975. Maison BVC (Benoit and Valérie Calvet) was thus born in 1985, and has since been sourcing characterful, terroir-led wines in France, Spain and Italy.

Over the years, they managed to develop a tight network of like-minded partners that allowed them to follow each wine from grape to bottle. Their restlessness, creativity and entrepreneurial spirit led them to the creation of their first own-brand Bordeaux wine, Le Voyageur, in 1988.

Valérie and Benoit’s Spanish projects gained significant momentum in the following two decades, eventually leading to the creation of a sister company, BVC Bodegas, headquartered in Requena, allowing them to bottle and supervise the origin and quality of their Spanish portfolio. While BVC Bodegas produces wines in multiple Spanish regions – Utiel-Requena, La Mancha, Rioja, Rueda and Catalunya – it is DO Utiel-Requena that takes pride of place, not just as the company’s home but also of BVC Bodegas’ most iconic wines and brands. Not least Toro Loco, seen in shelves and recognised by consumers the world over.

From Requena to the world

The first wines under the Toro Loco label were released in 2009, consolidating a close partnership with the 3000 growers and technical team of Grupo Coviñas. Having since invested in their own vineyards and winery in Requena, Valérie and Benoit wanted to be an active part of the local community, respecting the knowledge accumulated by generations of passionate people, dedicated to the local terroir. For it was this terroir that the couple recognised as the invaluable source of a viticultural and oenological heritage that is expressed in each bottle of Toro Loco wine.

Located at 600 to 900 meters above sea level, Utiel-Requena offers an ideal ripening environment, thanks to the Mediterranean breezes, the altitude and the wide diurnal temperature range, with  warms days and cool nights. These favourable, balanced conditions have catalysed a strong ecological shift in the D.O., with 30% of Utiel-Requena’s vineyard area already certified organic. As an active member of this transformation, BVC Bodegas released its first organic references in 2014.

Benoit refers to the authenticity and simplicity he found in Utiel-Requena and the many friendships he forged as a source of endless inspiration and joy. Here, he found a proximity to the land – and the people that care for it – that has long been lost in other wine regions; a sense of trust, value and cooperation that in turn expresses itself in wines that are expressive and complex while also being approachable.

BVC Bodegas’ winery in Requena has also become a laboratory for Benoit, allowing him to experiment, nurture ideas and test possibilities. Five years ago he introduced  the use of tinajas, which now occupy a privileged corner in the winery. It is in these historical vessels that Benoit has been producing a wine aged under a continuous vibration of 432 Hz (see tasting note below). According to music theory, 432 Hz is mathematically harmonious with the universe – it is known as Verdi’s ‘A’, named after Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi. Music tuned to 432 Hz is softer and brighter, and is said to provide greater clarity and have a calming effect by reducing heart rate and blood pressure.

What does it bring to the wine? That is for tasters to discover – but certainly the same sense of peace and harmony that Valérie Bataille and Benoit Calvet found in Utiel-Requena.

Three BVC wines to know:

Tasted and reviewed by the Decanter team

Toro Loco Rosado, 2019
Alc 13%; 100% Bobal
Very appealing, dry rosé with lifted aromatics and seductive texture. Refreshing acidity brings brightness to the rose petals, wild strawberry and raspberry notes. Clear and precise with juicy fruitiness but also a zesty kick.

Toro Loco Reserva, 2017
Alc 14%; 60% Bobal, 25% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah
Aged for 12 months in American oak, this wine displays prominent but well-worked wood. Charred cedar, dark chocolate and tobacco leaf rest over a bed of deep black fruit to shape a wine of classical intensity. The tannins are affirmative and slightly drying but very elegant and superbly integrated.

La Finca, 2019
Alc 14%; 100% Bobal
Idiosyncratic expression of Bobal, fermented and aged in tinajas to a constant vibration of 432 Hz. Intense liquorice character, marked pepperiness, and deep flavours of wild blackberry, dried oregano and black olive tapenade. Smooth tannins provide velvety width to the mid palate. Lingering salty liquorice.

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Fine wine has long been one of the most exciting and stable investment assets, although new investors can easily feel left out by traditional trading channels. VinoX is a revolutionary platform that combines wine investment with blockchain technology, offering a new Web 3.0 experience for collectors and investors. With access to over 700 boutique wine merchants worldwide and more than 100,000 bottles, VinoX has powerful search capabilities that allow an optimised selection of a wine investment portfolio based on budget and personal preferences.

Benchmark and customise

With a team of wine and Web 3.0 experts, VinoX delivers a seamless and engaging investment experience. By combining fine wine knowledge and tech innovation, the platform provides recommendations on the most valuable assets and makes the buying and selling process easy and safe, with the support of blockchain technology.

Each wine has a unique VinoX Score that reflects recent transaction demand, search volume, and return rate fluctuation, giving a valuable and clear reference point to browse the platform and benchmark an asset’s potential. VinoX supports mainstream fiat and virtual currencies, with real-time exchange rates that make transactions more accessible and affordable.

Upon purchase, investors can choose to partition their cases into individual bottles each attached to a unique NFT for transparency and traceability. They can also have the wine delivered to their doorstep, according to their needs, with guaranteed cold-chain shipping.

Streamlined logistics

VinoX partners with third-party, independent, dedicated bonded warehouses worldwide, providing optimal fine wine storage, while minimising the upfront tax burden. The safe and stable storage conditions, at ideal temperature and humidity, eliminate unnecessary transportation and movement, significantly reducing the risk of damage, loss and depreciation.

Viti Diary – learn and win

The Viti Diary, part of the VinoX project, is a game that combines NFT collection with learning, allowing players to build their wine knowledge while amassing tokens. The NFTs, which players can win by answering quizzes of incremental level, are divided into four categories: Variety, Terroir, Tool, and Character. These can then be synthesised to create wines with different attributes and scores. To create higher-scoring wines, with more desirable characteristics, players need to follow the real rules of viticulture, oenology and wine trade. These wines can help players win bigger prizes in subsequent games. Philip Reedman MW, advisor to the Viti Diary team, regularly shares knowledge and insight, giving players the opportunity to learn more about wine while improving their score in the game.

VinoX and Viti Diary are pioneering innovative solutions that merge traditional wine investment and education with blockchain technology, giving its users a new and accessible way to participate in the fascinating world of fine wine trading.

It seems the Deicas family have not only struck gold with their new vineyard but, through dedicated investigation and patience, they have also solidified a bonafide cru for Uruguayan Albariño.

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Founded by father and son Andrés and Rodolfo Valiente in 1999, Vegalfaro has since defined a very personal style, reflective of Rodolfo’s focus on terroir expression and sustainability. The property’s 60 hectares are farmed organically and managed under biodynamic principles. As champions of the local varieties and mindful viticulture, Vegalfaro have a no-nonsense approach to winemaking, allowing the landscape and grapes to speak for themselves.

Personal path

The evolution of Vegalfaro has been one of continuous exploration, discovery and development, both technical and personal. While investing, without making compromises, on the best ways to work sustainably and bring out the best in the terroir of Utiel-Requena, Rodolfo has forged his own path to produce wines that are also very expressive of his personality: classical yet adventurous, authentic yet modern, edgy yet focused. At Vegalfaro, Irreverence meets precision; not surprising when led by Rodolfo, who once studied law, eventually becoming a man of the land who also plays bass in a rock band.

The estate’s name itself reflects this meeting of landscape and personal history: it combines ‘vega’, the word for a lowland meadow or stretch of alluvial soil, with the property’s historic name, Casa Alfaro. As do the wine collections produced by Vegalfaro and bearing the DO Utiel-Requena stamp.

Owner and winemaker Rodolfo Valiente

Rebellious tradition

Caprasia, the Iberian word for ‘the land of the goats’, is a range that summons the time when wild goats roamed free across the valleys and hills of Utiel-Requena. It was then, as far back as the 7th century BC, that one of the ancient Mediterranean’s most complex winemaking operations was established, defining a lineage of winemaking pioneers which these wines pay tribute to. Produced from estate-grown fruit only, the Caprasia range is born at the intersection of tradition and innovation; it calls upon ancestral winemaking methods and the need to preserve a unique cultural heritage while also relying on Rodolfo’s technical precision and attention to detail.

All methods, old and new, serve a single purpose: to convey the essence of the terroir and grapes, both indigenous and international, all of which develop a character of their own at Finca Alfaro. Gentle crushing and cold soaks are used to boost aromatic complexity and texture without obscuring the essence of the grapes. The estate’s century-old plants of Bobal continue to be bush-trained, and the organic and biodynamic practices, which have had a dramatic positive impact on soil health, have only served to increase the quality of the fruit they yield – playing a central role in the expressiveness, complexity and thoughtfulness of the Caprasia range.

The wines in the Rebel.lia collection, on the other hand, are all about the pleasure of sharing and celebrating. Rightful companions, with their purity, approachability and drinkability, to the music nights hosted by Rodolfo. By questioning assumptions and style, they reveal approachable, intriguing and fun interpretations of DO Utiel-Requena.

But of all that can be said about the wines of Vegalfaro, the most important element is – and has been throughout the company’s development – the people behind them; a passionate team that has been alongside Andrés and Rodolfo on a fascinating journey making their commitment to sustainability, terroir and quality an ever-evolving reality.

Three Vegalfaro wines to know:

Tasted and reviewed by the Decanter team

Caprasia Blanco, 2021
Alc 12.5%; 75% Macabeo, 25% Chardonnay
Lovely balance of the two varieties, with Macabeo’s fleshy orchard fruit and rich citrus balanced by Chardonnay’s zesty drive and mineral backbone. A subtle layer or exotic fruit – pineapple, melon, papaya – comes through on the mid palate, as does a gentle smokiness. Lingering notes of toasted almonds and white flowers.

Caprasia – Bobal Anfora Biparcelario, 202o
Alc 14.5%; 100% Bobal
Alluring freshness and purity of fruit with an underlying mineral aspect. Different layers unfold in the glass, revealing sour cherry, cranberry, tomato leaf and tarragon flavours. Very mindful winemaking on show. with smart use of different terroirs and ageing vessels (amphorae and barriques).

Rebel.lia Tinto, 2021
Alc 14%; 65% Tempranillo, 35% Garnacha Tintorera
There’s a very particular vibrancy to this blend of Garnacha Tintorera and Tempranillo, juggling bright red fruit, deep black cherry, crunchy red apples and refreshing blood orange. Approachable throughout with alcohol very well integrated. Tannins are firm but well sculpted. Juicy plum on the good finish.

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Bodegas Vibe was born out of a love for the unique food and wine traditions of Utiel-Requena. With a long experience in hospitality, the Vicente family partnered with a talented winemaker to bring their project of passion to life. Each wine pays tribute to the flavours of this corner of the Mediterranean, with a particularly firm belief in Bobal and Tardana as the varieties that best express the essence of the region.

Mediterranean soul

Raúl Vicente Bezjak and winemaker Juan Carlos García López already knew each other from a previous project. Although with different experiences and backgrounds they shared the same work ethics, philosophy and, most importantly, passion for the land and grapes of Utiel-Requena. And hence, after leaving previous ventures, Raúl brough Juan Carlos on board to steer the winery operations at newly-created Bodegas Vibe. Through the transformation of a pre-existing farm, the new project focused on the creation of characterful wines, representative of the region’s traditions and of the love for the land of Utiel-Requena.

Located on the edge of Requena’s municipal perimeter, in the hamlet of El Azagador, the winery is surrounded by the region’s unspoiled quintessentially Mediterranean landscape whose colours, sounds, smells and flavours Bodegas Vibe wish to translate into each bottle.

In both vineyard and cellar the focus has been on harnessing and promoting the potential of the flagship grape varieties: Tardana, for white wines, and Bobal, in rosé and red expressions.

The clay-rich soils, sitting at 700 metres above sea level, are ideally suited to produce powerful fruit, with marked aromas, while retaining that distinctive freshness and lift that makes them so inviting and food-friendly.

Experience and recognition

With years of experience in hospitality, at the helm of different – and very successful – restaurants and catering ventures, the Vicente family knows all too well what it takes to create a perfect moment around the pleasures of food and wine. They bring a passionate and pragmatic approach to the work at Bodegas Vibe, always thinking of wine as a vehicle of celebration and enjoyment. This perspective is perfectly complemented by Juan Carlos’ technical acumen and constant will to experiment. In the cellar he’s been particularly eager to explore the character of Tardana and the best way to bring out its best expressions.

In recognition of this work of precision and dedication, and of the project’s evolution and consistency, Bodegas Vibe were awarded the ‘Premio a la Mejor Bodega de Utiel Requena’ (Best Winery of Utiel-Requena) in 2020 by the region’s Oenophile Circle. When delivering the award, the circle thanked ‘all those that are part of the project,’ explaining that it was ‘an injection of confidence and will to pursue the production of wines of great quality.’

This is, indeed, what defines Bodegas Vibe: a great energy to always move forward, make ideas come true and champion the best that the land of Utiel-Requena has to offer. Each bottle evokes moments of shared pleasure and inspiration, with the region’s landscape as backdrop and its people as companions.

Three Bodegas Vibe wines to know:

Tasted and reviewed by the Decanter team

Parsimonia Tardana, 2021
Alc 12.5%; 100% Tardana
Intense nose of peach, pineapple, ripe pear, banana, mango and yellow apple. Intriguing notes of green wood, hay and vanilla. Very elegant on the palate, with softness, intense citrus fruit and firm yet gentle acidity. Nice framework and lingering acid drive.

Venusto, 2020
Alc 14%; 100% Bobal
Powerful yet fine, this wine combines expressive fruit with a Mediterranean savoury lining. The softness of cherry yoghurt is given texture and edge by dried thyme, wild oregano, chestnut, vanilla and hazelnut shell. Tannins are rather grippy on the front palate but soften throughout. Lingering notes of cranberry and blackcurrant, with a pleasant crunchiness.

Parsimonia Bobal de Autor, 2019
Alc 14.5%; 100% Bobal
A classic and intense expression of Bobal, with depth and drive in equal measures. The fruit is smooth, rich and pure, with flavours of blackberry, blueberry jam and poached plum carried by velvety yet assertive tannins. Well integrated alcohol, perfectly offset by refreshing acidity.

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Uruguay has proved itself as the most exciting Albariño producer outside of Galicia, Spain. Even though its history with the variety is relatively short, today Albariño has become an emblem of Uruguay and its coastal terrain.

The Deicas family, in particular, sees Albariño as the holy grail for Uruguayan white wines. Third-generation winemaker Santiago Deicas has made it his mission to hone its world class potential.

‘Around 10 years ago I really started to believe in the great potential Uruguay had for Albariño,’ explains Deicas, who studied the variety both in Galicia and in different regions of his native Uruguay. ‘We planted Albariño in two of our vineyards but I also bought grapes from other growers for a greater understanding of it.’

The first result of this investigation materialised in ‘Don Pascual Coastal White’, a saline, fresh and aromatic blend of Albariño and Chardonnay with a touch of Pinot Grigio. The wine helped revitalise an exciting category of coastal white blends in Uruguay.

Particularities of the parcel

It wasn’t until the 2020 vintage though, that Deicas’ investigations came to full fruition, with their own vineyard fruit coming to the fore — notably with a parcel of vines in the Garzón region of Maldonado.

‘When tasting the grapes in the vineyard I noticed immediately that there was something really special about them,’ recalls Deicas. ‘They had an incredibly low pH — of 2.95. This is the sort of pH we normally expect for sparkling wines!’

After spontaneous fermentation (using native yeasts only) in Burgundian oak barrels and extended ageing on the lees, Deicas expected the wine to be ready, as his Albariños from elsewhere in Uruguay would be. Yet, this parcel of grapes clearly demanded a different approach. ‘The wine was still incredibly marked by the oak — I therefore left it much longer in the barrel, 15 months in total. And the same happened after bottling… it actually took another year in bottle for it to start showing its full potential.’

Full potential revealed

The true colours of this wine, according to Deicas, are down to the particularities of the vineyard. ‘This plot has granite soils very close to the sea, which lend it a very austere character, a mineral, saline expression and great ageing potential.’

Now, three years after harvest, Familia Deicas Cru D’Exception is making its debut on the international stage, and has been received with rapturous praise. It came out on top in Decanter’s ‘Albariño beyond Iberia’ tasting earlier this year — no small feat for a wine’s very first vintage. It’s sibling, Familia Deicas Atlántico Sur Albariño, also shone at the same tasting, earning a Highly Recommended (91 points) nod from the judges, in recognition for its fruit expressiveness and aromatic generosity.

It seems the Deicas family have not only struck gold with their new vineyard but, through dedicated investigation and patience, they have also solidified a bonafide cru for Uruguayan Albariño.

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The post The quest for an iconic Albariño from Uruguay appeared first on Decanter.

Wine lovers and investors now have the unique opportunity to acquire some of the world’s most sought-after wines, part of a singular collection of over 5,400 bottles. It’s not often that such a comprehensive and expertly curated collection is made available.

A product of knowledge and passion, the collection was assembled over four decades by a true connoisseur who traveled and tasted widely. Each bottle was acquired following tastings and vineyard visits, for a first-hand experience of quality, character and origin. As such, the traceability, authenticity and completeness of this selection is second to none.

The post Unique Wine Collection appeared first on Decanter.

The greatest lesson Félix Martínez Roda learnt from his father, Francisco Martínez Bermell, was that ‘there are no secrets, there’s simply the need to love wine.’ This remains the main principle guiding him at the helm of the family’s estate, as the guardian of a unique legacy: an unfailing commitment to the region of Utiel-Requena and to Bobal. Vera de Estena’s library cellar has some of the oldest examples of the region’s flagship variety, proving its potential to produce age-worthy wines, with staying power and enduring finesse. The legacy continues.

A winery – and a family – is born

With Europe in deep social, economic and political turmoil, plunged deep in World War II, Francisco Martínez Bermell settled in Utiel to take the helm of his family’s production winery, Hijos de Pons Hermanos. With him he brought a strong connection with his family’s wine lineage and a deep hope in better days to come. And so they did.

Soon after establishing himself in Requena, Francisco met his wife-to-be; together they started their own project. Having developed a close friendship with Don Pascual Carrión, then the director of the progressive Oenologic Station of Requena, the couple delved deeper into the history and terroir of the region, gaining invaluable technical knowledge and an understanding of how this land could, worked properly, yield the best grapes to produce world-class wines. The culmination of this process would be the release of Vera de Estenas’ first bottled wines in the 1980s, when the family was already settled at Casa Don Ángel – still the company’s operational and spiritual headquarters today.

By then, Francisco was already being helped by his older sons in the stewardship of the family’s winery. It would be the youngest, however, to fully take over from his father and lead Vera de Estenas into the 21st century. Today, Félix Martínez Roda – alongside his nephew Eduardo – is the guardian of this incredible entrepreneurial, viticulture and winemaking legacy.

Félix Martínez Roda

Clean cellar, healthy grapes, wood…

‘Clean cellar, healthy grapes, wood…’ – the elements that shape the philosophy of Vera de Estenas, as defined by Francisco, are the fundamental, simple components that draw a direct connection between the vineyard and the glass. This explains the strong, yet elegant, character of the estate’s wines, imbued with an unpretentious classicism – these are wines that transcend fashions and the test of time. They are authentic, age-worthy expressions of the terroir, the varieties and of the people whose lives have been intertwined with them from birth.

The story of Vera de Estenas, as the character of its wines, is a thread of memories and emotions – a narrative of a personal connection to the land of Utiel-Requena. Each bottle still evokes the afternoon when its founder was taken by his grandmother Filomena to the family winery in El Grao, the small seaside village where his great grandfather Don Pedro Pons had strategically built it close to the port. Then a small boy, Francisco was overwhelmed with wonder at the sight of the big vats, spiralling staircases and imposing oak vessels. He would never forget the complex aroma that filled the winery – cleanliness, healthy graped, seasoned wood,.. – a memory that accompanied and inspired him until his last days. The same memory that guides Félix and Eduardo today.

‘There are no secrets, there’s simply the need to love wine.’

Three Vera de Estenas wines to know:

Tasted and reviewed by the Decanter team

La Tardana de Estenas, 2022
Alc 11.5%; 100% Tardana
Aged in amphorae, this is a lively wine with green apple, pear peel and lime zest flavours lifted by a bright acidity. A subtle salinity adds a savoury undertone. There’s a delicious tail of stone fruit – peach, nectarine and apricot – with a refreshing zesty grip.

El Bobal de Estenas, 2021
Alc 13%; 100% Bobal
Bright yet earthy, this wine balances ripe red fruit with savoury intensity. A great value, and great quality everyday wine. with purity, freshness, and a robust but elegant structure. The tannins are pleasantly rustic, with an affirmative grip, with cranberry and cognac-infused cherries balancing with sweetness and softness.

Casa Don Ángel – Estenas Bobal, 2019
Alc 15%; 100% Bobal
Having aged for 15 months in old French oak barriques, there’s an elegant, savoury complexity to this wine. Underpinned by fresh, fine-grained tannins, lifted by good acidity. Sophisticated, fragrant lining with floral and herbal nuances. The alcohol is extremely well integrated, as is the oak. Already showing a beautiful, elegant development but also a great potential ahead.

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The post Vera de Estenas – a story of memory and emotion appeared first on Decanter.

Founded in 1885, Rutini is one of Argentina’s historic wineries – but also one of the most visionary. In recent years, Rutini has cemented its reputation as a fine wine leader, most especially with the emerging quality and expressiveness of Cabernet Franc.

A modern pioneer of Gualtallary

Under the hand of long-standing winemaker Mariano Di Paola, Rutini has transformed in the last two decades, moving from making everyday wines in Maipú to pioneering premium wines in the Uco Valley. Although the state-of-the-art winery is still glistening in its new sheen, it was actually a thread from the past that first brought Di Paola here.

‘The Rutini family was actually one of the first families to plant in Uco. They planted Chardonnay and Merlot in Tupungato in 1925,’ explains Di Paola, who started making wines from those very same plants when he joined Rutini in 1994. ‘I fell in love with the quality coming from these vines, following which, in 1996, we planted 20 hectares in nearby Gualtallary.’

At that time, with just a few experimental vineyards, Gualtallary was still uncharted territory. With a visionary conviction, Rutini continued planting, amassing 100 hectares in the following 12 months. Di Paola found that this new high-altitude mountain terrain was a paradise for both white and red varieties, making notable Chardonnay and Merlot — as he had suspected — but also stellar Malbec and Gewürztraminer.

What took longer to emerge, though, was the potential for world class Cabernet Franc.

Unveiling a unique terroir for Cabernet Franc

‘We first planted Cabernet Franc in 1998, although the quality was suited more to a supporting role for Malbec,’ admits Di Paola. ‘It wasn’t until we planted the new sector of the vineyard in 2002 that we really started to see a unique quality come through.’

The new sector is 100 metres higher in altitude and has much poorer, rocky soils. ‘It gives us a totally different profile of Cabernet Franc — one with not only fruit, but also with a savoury, ashy, minty profile and smooth tannins.’

Following several vintages honing their winemaking, Di Paola and his team now make some of the most elegant Cabernet Franc expressions in Mendoza today, filled with dark spice and poise.

The Single Vineyard wine is the epitome of Rutini’s increasingly sophisticated style: with nuanced layers of spearmint, raspberries, coffee beans and black pepper, and a long, fragrant finish. It has quite rightly taken home a clutch of awards and excellent scores, shining a light on the great potential of this variety in the unique terroir of Gualtallary.

Although Rutini counts on a history of 138 years, it is still very much leading the way into the future.

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The post Pioneering world class Cabernet Franc in Argentina appeared first on Decanter.

Sommelier’s often say that serving Japanese food with wine is both one of the most difficult and interesting pairing exercises. The fine flavours and textures of nipponic cuisine, alongside the vibrant intensity of some of the condiments and sauces, proves a challenge when it comes to finding beverage companions.

And yet, the answer can be awfully simple. Seek wines that have: balanced acidity, bringing freshness to the different textures without obscuring them; an elegant aromatic profile, serving as counterpoint to intense sauces while bringing to life the more subtle flavours;  a subtle mineral backbone to run alongside the trademark umami components of Japanese cuisine. All these characteristics are some of the fundamental characteristics of the much-loved Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC.

We headed to Mio Yatai in East London, to understand a bit more about the essence of Japan’s everyday flavours and how to enjoy them with a good glass of Pinot Grigio.

Aldin Karaali, sommelier and manager at Mio Yatai, served as our guide. The venue has long been a favourite among locals and visitors alike, providing guaranteed satisfaction to those seeking authentic Japanese fare. Located above Regent’s Canal, on the bridge that opens to the bustling and iconic Broadway Market, Mio Yatai’s light-filled room is always full of creative types seeking the famous ramen and poke bowls.

But when it comes to drinks, customers can get a bit conservative. Which is why Karaali is rethinking the whole beverage programme. As he prepares a major overhaul of his wine list, and experiments different pairings, this was a perfect moment to discuss the many affinities of Japanese cuisine with Italy’s most famous wine. ‘Customers come in and are ready to experiment with all the food flavours but can easily stick to cocktails or beer – or even tea – when ordering drinks. I really want to introduce more wines and sakes.’ Karaali agrees that not exploring pairing possibilities with wine – not least Pinot Grigio –  customers are missing an opportunity.

The very opening of a meal is an invitation for a perfect aperitif: the salty, crunchy deliciousness of edamame beans could not be better enjoyed than with a glass of softly fragrant Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC. Simple and perfect. The spiciness of a chicken katsu bao bun, on the other hand, is perfectly offset by the wine’s mineral freshness and fruit generosity. Spice is also a territory where the Ramato styles thrive – a degree of skin contact adds red fruit nuances and a gentle grip, which respond particularly well to spicy prickle.

Ramatos can also, however, serve as supporting cast to the subtlety of raw fish. ‘And we can’t forget the character of the rice,’ says Karaali. Indeed, the rice that supports many of Japanese (or Japanese-inspired) dishes, from sushi to shirashi or poke bowls, is in itself special. A masterpiece of sourness, measured stickiness and a touch of sweetness, it enters in easy dialogue with the characterful Ramatos.

How about ramen? Can Japan’s most loved street food, now elevated to hipster favourite, be paired with wine? One would be a fool not to. The umami intensity of the 18-hour broth and mushrooms, the crunchiness of bean sprouts and bamboo shoots, and the earthiness of tea-pickled eggs call for nothing else than a fresh and soft glass of Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC. Dinner is served.

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The post Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC and the flavours of Japan appeared first on Decanter.

Tell us a little bit about who you are and what you do.
I am the Head Sommelier at 67 Pall Mall, in London, where I’ve been since 2014. Before that I lived and worked in Italy (in fact for a Franciacorta producer). My passion for wine led me to move because, in my view, London is the best place to be exposed to and learn about wines from all over the world. Having said that, I’ve remained particularly passionate about the noble Italian wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Bolgheri, Franciacorta. I also judge widely, including for Decanter.

What was your first experience with the wines of Franciacorta?
It’s hard to remember, I was very young. I grew up in Brescia and my father and I would explore the region’s vineyards and producers on weekends. As a wine lover, I first started drinking Franciacorta when going out with friends. Eventually, I even started my professional career at the offices of a Franciacorta producer.

What differentiates Franciacorta from other traditional method sparkling wines? What makes them special?
Franciacorta is a very delimited area – which means limited production – with a small, close-knit community of producers, all of whom follow the strict rules of the appellation’s ‘carnet de charges’. There are of course other renowned traditional method wine regions around the world, but few – if any – have such stringent and consistent quality standards (to do with yields, ageing requirements, farming practices, among other things). Producers – mostly boutique, family-run companies – are very quality driven and there’s a sense of cooperation, with the bigger operations also playing an important role in introducing innovation and new ideas.

From a technical point of view, the wines of Franciacorta are particularly balanced, with richer fruit and rounder acidity than its counterparts. The texture, ripeness and the creamy quality of the acid (we call it ‘digestible acidity’) make Franciacorta wines particularly suitable for food pairing. As a sommelier it’s particularly interesting to be able to work with this.

So how and with what can you pair Franciacorta wines?
They make an excellent aperitif but can also be served at any stage, from the beginning to the end of a meal. And not just with Italian food. The wines are very versatile and suit a variety of international cuisines. Franciacorta goes really well with Japanese, Thai, even Indian food, with the texture and soft acid really balancing the spiciness and heat.

Of course you have worked with Franciacorta for a long time. How have you seen the evolution of the region and the wines?
There’s been, especially in the last 10 years, an interesting evolution, with younger winemakers, with a lot of knowledge, technical expertise and exposure to international wines, starting their own projects in the region. By understanding the international context they’ve actually been more eager to highlight the terroir and uniqueness of Franciacorta, helping place the wines on the world stage. There’s an increasing understanding and emphasis on the region’s multiple terroirs – from the Pre-Alps to Monte Orfano or the Moreinic Amphitheatre – while also giving wines a distinct winemaker’s fingerprint. So there’s more terroir expressiveness and personality. And more knowledge – technical and of the local microterroirs – has also meant the quality and ageability of the wines keeps improving. We mustn’t forget that this is a young appellation and producers are still discovering its full potential and terroirs diversity.

Can Franciacorta wines age?
Absolutely. The wines are perfect for consumption upon release – especially if we look at the non-vintage – but can definitely be put away. The Millesimatos and Riservas in particular can have a long life ahead. They’re a great personal investment; you can put them away for five, even ten, years, and they will really develop. I’ve been fortunate to taste some older vintages and the wines showed great longevity.

How is Franciacorta showcased at 67 Pall Mall? As a Head Sommelier how do you position it?
The wines (and producers) are increasingly known as premium traditional method sparkling. For a long time they were being put in the ‘Italian sparkling’ bracket and it’s been a long education process, making people more aware of the character and quality.

So the way I like to communicate Franciacorta is: first of all ‘Italian high quality’; then ‘Traditional method sparkling’. In a place like 67 Pall Mall consumers – who are very knowledgeable wine lovers – really understand this already.

If you had to pick one style of Franciacorta as a personal favourite, which one would you choose?
I would probably say the Satén. Because it is a signature style that conveys many of the things that make Franciacorta special: the texture, the integration of the autolytic aromas, the balanced acidity, the quality . And it’s a great wine to make people understand the essence of Franciacorta and what the appellation is doing, without imitating any other region – you will never find a wine like Satén anywhere else. From there you can move to more specific styles, such as Millesimato, that will allow you to become more familiar with the specifics of terroir.

And what do you think of Franciacorta’s own grape, Erbamat? What do you think it brings to the wines?
The characteristics of the grape bring out citrus aromas and crispier acidity. So it adds a refreshing character to the wines. But what I value the most is that, by using Erbamat, Franciacorta is reclaiming a grape that has been grown in the region for centuries and is part of its history. So it helps increase the singularity and recognition of the appellation through the use of an indigenous grape variety that isn’t grown in any other sparkling wine regions. It also catalyses the study of terroir and interest of younger producers.

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The post My Franciacorta - with Federico Moccia appeared first on Decanter.

For five generations, the Rivero family has pioneered the production of quality wines in key Spanish wine regions. The adventure started in Rioja and expanded to the Basque Country, Galicia and Catalonia, before arriving at Utiel-Requena. Since finding its home in the land of Bobal, the wines of Faustino Rivero Ulecia have shown the variety’s versatility, character and expressiveness – from crisp rosés, to both easy-drinking and age-worthy reds, the company has been producing benchmark examples of the regional flagship grape since the 1980s.

Determination and grit

The origins of Faustino Rivero Ulecia date back to 1899, when Olegario Riverio opened his small winery in the heart of the town of Arnedo, Rioja. His production was sold locally in wineskins and wine boots. Second generation Agapito Rivero would indeed become a boot maker, meeting the demand not only for his family’s business but also for other winemakers. In addition to producing wineskins and boots, these craftsmen also acted as brokers between growers and producers, playing a key role in the local economic ecosystem.

This combined expertise, covering business acumen, personal relationships, and craftsmanship, was passed on to third generation Amador and Faustino Rivero who, in the 1940s, anticipated great opportunities for growth in the Spanish wine sector. They therefore decided to invest their time and knowledge exclusively in wine production and trade. They sourced the best grapes from several villages in Rioja Oriental, producing wine which they then sold in local markets. In the following decade, Amador and Faustino expanded the company’s trade to other regions – Basque Country, Catalonia and Galicia – selling their production in chestnut barrels.

This period of commercial growth allowed the family to improve winemaking standards and technical expertise – in the 1960s they bought their first bottling line to release their first bottled wines under the brand ‘Chitón’.

Spanish Ambassadors

It was not until the late 1970s that the first wines bottled under Faustino Rivero Ulecia were released, a milestone that coincided with pivotal changes implemented by the fourth generation, Agapito and Jesús Rivero. Their viticultural and oenological training allowed them to support the consolidation of the family’s company, seen in the construction of a new, state-of-the-art winery in the outskirts of Arnedo. This served as the springboard for a pioneering commercial effort in export markets, with the company gaining market leadership in countries such as Denmark and Sweden.

This in turn gave the family the motivation and confidence to expand to other interesting winemaking regions in Spain, namely Navarra and Utiel-Requena. In Utiel, Faustino Rivero Ulecia recognised the unique potential of the Mediterranean, altitude terroir and of the flagship local variety to produce wines of great expressiveness and character. 1988 marked the release of the company’s first DO Utiel-Requena bottling; almost four decades later, some of the expressions of Bobal produced by Faustino Rivero Ulecia have true status as classics. But the company’s foremost mission remains to make quality wines available to consumers around the world, for everyday drinking pleasure.

What differentiates and defines Faustino Rivero Ulecia is its lineage of passion, hard work and determination, running from its humble beginnings to the great wines produced and sold worldwide today.

Three Faustino Rivero Ulecia wines to know:

Tasted and reviewed by the Decanter team

Audiencia Rosado, 2022
Alc 12.5%; 100% Bobal
Lovely and expressive nose with bright aromas of pomegranate, cranberry, pink grapefruit and strawberry sorbet. A seam of dried Mediterranean herbs gives it a savoury dimension. The palate echoes the aromas and is lifted by lively acidity and fleshy texture. Good persistence.

Marqués de Colbert, 2017
Alc 13%; 60% Bobal, 40% Tempranillo
A shy, broody nose of mushroom, dark cherry, vanilla and black pepper. The elegant palate shows very good wood integration, never obscuring the subtle flavours of plum, cherry and prune. Showing good development while retaining very bright, clear fruit. Firm tannins with a characterful, refreshing grip.

Faustino Ribeiro Reserva, 2016
Alc 13%; 60% Bobal, 40% Tempranillo
Great vibrancy of crunchy (cranberry, red cherry, red plum). The oak tannins are at the forefront but do not obscure the enduring energy of the fruit. Savoury touches of liquorice, blueberry leaf and tomato leaf add nuance and complexity. Long finish.

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The history of La Lomellina started 400 years ago when, in 1620, the villa that presides to the estate was built by the influential genovese family Lomellini, after which the property is named. The first records of the cultivation of Cortese – Piedmont’s noble white grape, and the only variety allowed in the Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG  – date back to that same period, a testament to the estate’s deep-rooted winemaking tradition.

Noble character

Over the following four centuries, the exclusive vineyards of La Lomellina were under the successive ownership of only three families, remaining closely cared for. The estate is now in the hands of Carlo Bonomi and Emanuela Croce Raggio, granddaughter of Edilio Raggio, Marchese d’Azeglio. The nobleman started producing Gavi wine in 1817, having quickly gained fame and reputation, both in Italy and abroad, for the quality and character of his releases.

The secrets that made the Gavi Marchese Raggio special from its very first vintage are kept by the terroir of La Lomellina. The mineral-rich soils and the fresh saline breezes give the Cortese grapes a unique array of aromas and flavours, covering a wide spectrum that goes from filigreed white flowers to zesty citrus and ripe orchard fruit. Once at the helm of the estate, Carlo Bonomi grew personally committed to this viticultural treasure and determined to turn it into the best Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG.

Carlo Bonomi

History meets expertise

This strength and elegance is still what makes La Lomellina wines special today. Craftsmanship and attention to detail remain fundamental, setting the highest standards – in both the vineyard and the cellar – required to produce great wines. All work in the vineyards, from pruning to harvest, is done exclusively by hand. A first fruit selection is done in the field, so that only the best bunches, from selected terroirs and vines with more than 30 years of age, arrive at the winery. Here, history and innovation meet, using both state-of-the-art technology and ancestral knowledge to produce wines of great elegance and character.

La Lomellina is a winery at the forefront, while remaining firmly committed to its valuable heritage. Temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks share the space with a chais, whose oak barrels are used for the maceration, fermentation and ageing of the top wines, with the aim of underscoring and enhancing aromas, structure and texture. In the vineyard, sustainability now plays a central role and informs all strategic decisions. By implementing mindful pruning, weed control through cultivation only, and banning the use of pesticides, La Lomellina is taking further steps towards the preservation of its viticultural patrimony and the purity of its wines – all of which are already certified ‘Pesticides Free’.

Piedmontese adventure

In the last few years, La Lomellina has been expanding across Barolo, namely in the comunes of La Morra and Serralunga D’Alba. It is in Serralunga that La Lomellina’s Marchese D’Azeglio wines are produced. These form the estate’s Piedmontese collection: one Langhe Nebbiolo and two award-winning Barolos (one of which from the hailed Meriame vineyard), received with wide international recognition.

Always striving to produce niche wines with character and of high quality, La Lomellina also introduced a Timorasso Derthona to its Marchese D’Azeglio range. The grapes for this premium white wine are sourced from the heart of the Colli Tortonesi, in south Piedmont. The vineyard’s southeastern exposure and the clay-rich limestone soils bring out the best and full character of Timorasso, with its firm mineral structure, elegant acidity and great ageing potential. Over time, Timorasso is capable of developing a dense complexity of flavour and a richness on the palate, as seen in Marchese D’Azeglio’s expression.

Yet another chapter in an exciting history of relentless commitment to terroir expression, quality and craftsmanship. ‘Few bottles, but excellent ones – this is what I believe in,’ sums up Carlo Bonomi.

Discovering the wines of La Lomellina

Marchese Raggio Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
A perfectly balanced wine, with intense fruit offset by fresh acidity and firm mineral structure. Delicate floral and herbal nuances add nuance, complexity and personality. Good persistence with lingering almond notes. A great aperitif wine, but also a perfect pairing companion to grilled fish, seafood platters and sushi.

Marchese Raggio ‘Old Année’ GAVI DOCG del Comune di Gavi
Beautiful yellow hay hue with hints of green. Produced with selected fruit from sandy mineral-rich soils. Aged for 12 months in stainless steel and a further three years in bottle prior to release. The result is an intensely perfumed wine, with complex notes of orchard fruit, citrus, acacia honey and white flowers. Fresh and saline on the palate, with an elegant structure and great persistence. Pair with cheese platters, fish stews and poultry.

Marchese D’Azeglio Timorasso Derthona Colli Tortonesi
Aged for 12 to 14 months on the fine lees, in stainless steel, with frequent battonage. Another four months in bottle prior to release. Intense yellow hue, with golden touches. Intense, complex, with a strong mineral backbone that will support good ageing. Very saline, structured on the palate, with good width and vibrant acidity.

Marchese D’Azeglio Barolo D.O.C.G. Cru Meriame 
The shallow, mineral soils of Meriame, and its soft microclimate, produce fruit with outstanding aromatic and phenolic complexity. Aged for 30 in French oak and one year in bottle, this wine develops interesting savoury nuances topped by rich red fruit and floral touches. Soft tannins in an enveloping mouthfeel of great persistence.

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